I purchased an Enco 9x20 lathe, and when I went to set it up, the tag on the cord says it was wired from the factory for 220, and to look inside the motor wiring cover for directions.

There ar 6 pairs of wires tagged 1-6 under said cover with factory crimp-style connectors, so I am not sure the previous owner ever checked it. He was a musical instrument repairman, and didn't seem technically inclined.

Cover pic is attached, but I am 'motor challenged' and have no idea how to read this or verify that it is correct for 120 rather than 220.

Any assistance would be appreciated.

Ok. first. i dont know why you have 6 pairs. i'm assuming you meant 6 wires.

if you want the motor to run clock ways
connect L1, #1, #4 #5
connect L2 #2 #3 #6

if you want counter clock ways
connect L1 #1 #4 #6
connect L2 #2 #3 #5

Cheers

Nope, 6 pairs... Not that I am always that observant

attached is pics of the switch and wires.

The switch in on the other end of those wires.

Thanks!

ok. so from the factory they have sent power to the switch, then made the conetions in the switch for fwd/ rev. the way i would do it is to pull the switch and rewire it for 120. hopefully the diagram is on the switch or it might have dried up and fell apart.

I got my benchtop mill with the motor disconnected and nothing written down for what went where for wiring... so you'll probably have to do what I did.

If I were in your shoes, I'd cut all the wires loose (as close to the crimp as possible, even through the plastic - leave as much wire as possible) and I'd figure out how the switch works. You need to figure out which switch wires are shorted together in each position - you can use an ohm meter to do that. Write down the 3 positions in columns (Rev / Off / Fwd), and then figure out the switch wire colors that short together in each position. Once you know how the switch works, you can make the connections like on the motor plate (swapping 5 & 6 between reverse & forward).

I was afraid of something like that. I had hoped there would be an obvious answer to the more educated, but Chi-com stuff isn't well marked for us idiots.

Thanks!

OK,

Here is a drawing of how it is wired now and a pic of the diagram on the switch panel.

Based on what I see here, I am not sure this thing should even be rotating... :confused:

Again, I am MOTOR CHALLENGED, so any assistance you can provide is appreciated. The use of language applicable to a 3 year old is not offensive, and probably more beneficial than talking to me like I have a clue... :emb2:

TIA!

Looks like its currently wired 220v based on your schematic.


Looking at the motor schematic I don't think you can run it using the F/R switch at 120v.

If you look at the motor diagram you can see the thick lines connecting the numbers. That means they are grouped together, on the 220v side you can see they leave out the 1 or the 3 based on rotation. That is all your drum switch is doing. The thin arrows are showing what group of wires is going to your hot leads coming into the box.

You might be able to get a different drum switch to run it at 120v. I know you can 3 phase drum switch with more contacts for forward reversing and am pretty sure you can get one for 120v but I didn't do much 120v stuff when i working in industrial electrical....mostly 3 phase and its to early in the AM for me to be thinking about using a 3 phase switch for this...

U on the switch- tie on #1,#4
V on the switch- tie on #3,#2
leave #5 on #5 on the switch
tie #6 onto #6 on the switch
these numbers i gave you are the motor taps.

on the power side 120 hot goes to R on the switch
neutral goes to S on the switch
leave the capacitor alone, don't change any wiring, leave the grounds as well, just make sure they're snug.
no bull shit i had to think about this one for a second and draw it out. way easier when it's in front of me and i can put a meter to it and prove it. hope this goes good for you. if you were in edmonton i'd just offer to stop by and wire it.
oh ya. here comes the three year old talk. remember you have to put a 120 volt cord end on. sorry dude.

^^i agree. all i work with is 3 phase as well. wierd how the single ph shit can throw you for a loop. this switch'll work for you though

U on the switch- tie on #1,#4
oh ya. here comes the three year old talk. remember you have to put a 120 volt cord end on. sorry dude.


:laughing::laughing::laughing:

That is what clue'd me into something being wrong... there is a 120V cord on it!!!

Silly Chinese.

Thanks.. I will try that next trip out to the shop.

This is what I think you are telling me. If it is correct, please let me know and I will make it happen!


Thanks again all!

did ya get this thing for a song? dude prolly put 120v cord end on and it didnt work right cause it's deffinatly tapped for 220 :D

See here:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=849799

Also, I added a new wiring diagram to the last post... please verify it is what you said I should do.

Thanks again!!!

sweet.

yup. you got it.

Back in 1/2 hour to let you know how bad I fawked it up... :laughing:

Thanks!

Done.

But....

It doesn't 'sound' right. the 60hz hum is LOUD, both fwd and rev.

I have another 3/4 hp motor 5 feet away and it is VERY quiet comparative to this lathe motor. It actually sounded better before I made any changes.

Something doesn't feel right. I do have a meter or 2, so if you want readings to verify, let me know what they are.

Suggestions?

Thanks!

BTW I am 3 hours south of Toronto.... if you leave now you could be back in Edmonton in time to go to work on Monday.... ;)

first thing you need to check is that the hot is on R and neutral is on S this could give you the imbalance.

also. does it start or is it slowly trying to start?

first thing you need to check is that the hot is on R and neutral is on S this could give you the imbalance.

also. does it start or is it slowly trying to start?

I have 120VAC on the R terminal.

It starts and runs, but even with no load it is a VERY loud 60hz hum.

APU says the motor may be fubar.

Enco says it is obsolete and no longer supported.

How do I find a replacement motor?

TIA.

APU says the motor may be fubar.

Enco says it is obsolete and no longer supported.

How do I find a replacement motor?

TIA.


Hope it's a standard frame. Take some pics/measurements of the mounting plate as well as the diameter of the shaft. I'm sure someone will be able ot match it up for you.

exactly. frame sizes are a standard thing. if you match your frame, horse power, and rpm ( which is pretty standard for your hp) along with shaft dia. a motor shop, farm supply, industrial supply where ever should be able to help. while your at it, it'll cost you less coin to purchase a 120 volt single phase motor. sorry we could'nt get her running but the sound it was making over the phone sounded bad. i spoke to a couple guys today and they all had the same thoughts i did. good luck. cheers

Ok,

I am doing a bit more research and the wiring diagram on the subsequent model is attached. It appears that the 220V diagram is how my motor WAS wired.
If the 110V is the same as my motor, then the wiring is still wrong on my current motor.

The link is how I was advised to wire it, wiring.jpg is how (I think) the replacement is supposed to be wired.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=494548&d=1263681348

Thanks for your patience and any advice.

sorry i cant read the diagram. and your link is broke.
the sequence i gave you was how the motor tapps for that motor were listed. it dosent hurt to try to move the tapps around, you'll know instantly that it's not working. And like i said the other day it sounded like a stator was dead. so this might help. but i cant read the diagram so i cant run you through it. sorry

So,

There were multiple issues, but the motor itself is good.

The previous owner had turned some non-metal (nylon/delryn) and the shavings were wound around the centrifical contactor for the capacitor. I cleaned those out.

I took it to work and asked the electrical guys to take a look and they checked it out... 1795 RPM unloaded - but noisy. The replaced the bearings for me, and now it sounds pretty good.

APU, some of the cause of the 60HZ hum was the vibrations from the table the lathe was on... acting like a large drum head.

Anyway, I will be putting the motor back on tonight and will update you then.

Thanks for all the assistance!