if i lay a first pass with 6010, can i do the 7018 in an overhead position? i know it is hard to go downhill with 7018 because the puddle will flow past and put out the arc, but what about overhead? is it going to drip off the weld area? this is with a 330amp machine. thanks.

Why are you going downhill with 7018? 7018 is an all position rod. It is much easier to control the puddle going up hill. It just takes practice. 6010 is the best root pass or keyhole pass(full penitration weld) rod. most 7018 is for DC machines although there is some for AC also. DC strait works best for me

yes you can run it over head its runs nice I run it just a hiar hotter over head than flat also you should really run it up hand only

If me memory serves me you never want to run 7018 downhill. Overhead works fine with right technique.

Overhead is almost the same as flat just turn the heat up a bit 10-15 amps and go vertical up just go with the rod pointed slightly up about 15* or so and it is fine I did it las night.

the "1" in 6010, 7018, etc designates it as an all position rod. the "60" or "70" is a number designating tensile strength (60,000# and 70,000# respectfully), the last number is specific to polarity and type of electricity(dc+electrode, ac, dc-electrode) and the coating on the rod...

i always have more luck using the 60 series rods out of position, using a whip and pause motion. they freeze into position faster and gravity has less time to cause the puddle to droop....but i still end up with booger welds:flipoff2:

try little half moons or small cirlces with the 70 series rod, not whip and pause?? works better for me....

i know it is hard to go downhill with 7018 because the puddle will flow past and put out the arc

It is not recommended (in any type of welding that I can remember currently) that you ever weld downhill anyways. It is a law of nature that whatever rod you use, or mig, etc....that the puddle will want to flow with gravity and cause a "false impression of contact" between the two weld surfaces. At least when compared to an uphill weld. Welding uphill causes you, the welder, to focus on keeping the puddle steady and allowing sincere penetration.....haha, I said penetration. I'm not saying that downhill can't be done, but I am saying that it will never be as strong as an uphill weld that is done right. The uphill weld might not be as pretty (who gives a fawk anyways), but it will be stronger.

When welding uphill, how do you form your puddle?? I usually go up 1/4", bring the puddle back down about an 1/8" and tie in the weld surfaces....then back up another 1/4" and repeat all the way to the top. With a steady hand, you can make it happen.

Granted it was MIG when I did this..

I discovered after about 60 non-stop minutes of welding above my head. Turning the welder up higher than I normally would use it and moving fast. So the puddle can't get too big and drip.

if it does drip.... don't do what I did... get out of the way. ;)

People keep talking about how they are moving the rod, but he asked about 7018. 7018 is a DRAG rod, ya get the arc and just drag it. Before ya even start, I passed x-ray testing with 7018 in all 4 positions so :flipoff2:

Originally posted by kwrangln
Before ya even start, I passed x-ray testing with 7018 in all 4 positions so :flipoff2:

Man... I don't need to be reading that kinky shit!








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