Cage designs & why. Pre-fab, build your own. What material did you use, any square cages out there. Come Awwwwnnn, let us cage challenged folks in on you secrets.

Here are my specs, need to find someone to build it.

Material, 2 or 1.75 .120 HREW

Front hoop will be brought down tight to the pillars, with the hoop passing behind the dash with the cross bar behind the dash. Standard hoop behind the front seats, with a rear hoop out back. The cage will be tied to the frame. Proper gusseting, between bars, with additional gussets tied to the window frame, and key areas of the body. If I had the extra cash to buy a bender I'd fab it myself, but I think money wins over time on this one. I'll put it out to bid next spring.

Joe

I've seen a lot of people just build the cage off of the original roll bar. Unfortunately, Some plumber apparently owned my and set up water works in the back. If you look closely, the bends were collapsed when they created this POS...safe...real safe.

<IMG width=640 height=480 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/Old Roll Bar.jpg">

So 6 months ago, I started talking to this guy about building my cage and we start planning. I have a 1/2 cab only and I wanted to still be able to use it. Around May, I had him build the rear part and it turned out sweet.
<IMG width=800 height=600 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/Roll Bar side view.jpg">

Then, I tried (repeatedly) to hook up with him again to get the rest finished but he is too damn busy. So, I confirmed last Friday, my bender is shipping out today <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">

This is the start of what I plan on doing. The dashed lines are the bars that will run on the inside that you can't see from the pics. I have already cut away most of my dash. The new dash will be aluminum panel with Autometer gauges. It will mount to the cage only, not to the body. My Cadilliac (sp?) telescoping steering column will also mount to the cage. As the pics mention, my defroster hoses will connect to the cross bar below the windshield and I will drill defrosting holes in the top of the bar. Also, my seats will be incorporated into the cage as well.
<IMG width=640 height=480 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/Cage design.jpg">
<IMG width=640 height=480 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/Interior cage design.jpg">

That's it so far...any thoughts?

Originally posted by jdjanda:
<STRONG>Cage designs & why. Pre-fab, build your own. What material did you use, any square cages out there. Come Awwwwnnn, let us cage challenged folks in on you secrets.
</STRONG>

Wow, this is a slow topic today.. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Race rig? Build. Currently a cage I inherited made from Sch40 <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0">uke: pipe.. I want to replace it with 1.75x.120 or 2x.120 tubing (as soon as the steel shop gets back to me with a quote, I'll know..)

Custom 'cage. It'll incorporate seat mounts n' belt mounts (like my current one) and clear the trans tunnel better than the current setup. Back bar, dash bar. Rear kickers will go to the end of the bed where they'll be bolted in with the rear body mounts. Front feet'll get the front body mounts.

Sloped door bars for triangulation and side impact. Probably more triangulation when I get everything else taken care of.

I'm figuring 100' of tubing.

Trail rig currently has a GUS Repro 5pc 'bar. I have a Smitty SC88 front kit to install.

I'll probably start with that, but then add in some features similar to the race truck - seats mounted to the 'cage in particular.

Rear legs will need to be cut off the GUS 'bar to make room for the wheel tubs, so maybe a new "rear hoop" at the end of the Scout and more stringers front to back.

For my pickup, I'm thinking of a 'cage as well.

Make three hoops and stand 'em in place. I think I can use straight legs on the front even and not worry about bending around the dash.

Stand 'em up and put "stubs" on each of the 3 main hoops such that I can stand 'em up inside the cab and use a "sleeve" to couple each hoop to the other. Back-bar behind the front seats and rear bench. Probably skip the triangulated door bars n' such on the pickup and settle for gussets in the corners.

I can then put 3pt belts in, tied to the 'cage. Even a 3pt belt for the middle passenger on the rear bench.

I'd also like to rig it so I can belts running from the rear seat "back bar" down to the front of the rear seat, making something of a "cargo net" - primarily for any sleeping passengers.

Just need to find out how much tubing is going to cost and then order the bend and cash out some vacation. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

If I can't get the materials for a good price, my back up choice is Art Morrison.. they'll deliver the 'cage pre-bent and pre-notched.. just weld it n' go.

I'm right in the middle of building mine.

My design is a hoop at the rear, a hoop in the front, and a double hoop in the middle (bolted together with bushings so I can remove half the cage at a time, whenever needed). A few runners to connect it all together, and that it.

I'm connecting to the frame at the front and rear body mounts. Not quite sure how to tie the middle hoops in yet.

For material, I'm using 1.75" DOM (may use ECW for some of it) at .125 wall thickness. Bought a sweet little bender at Low Buck Tools (http://www.lowbucktools.com). Should easily pay itself off after caging all my rigs.

Originally posted by Monster-Z:
<STRONG>For material, I'm using 1.75" DOM (may use ECW for some of it) at .125 wall thickness. Bought a sweet little bender at Low Buck Tools (http://www.lowbucktools.com). Should easily pay itself off after caging all my rigs.</STRONG>

This is making me nuts, I need to break down and buy a dam bender. How do you like the unit. Did you go with the $500.00 dollar model? I just priced a Model 3 with 1.75 die for $400.00, that's with no options.

Joe

Originally posted by jdjanda:
<STRONG>This is making me nuts, I need to break down and buy a dam bender. How do you like the unit. Did you go with the $500.00 dollar model? I just priced a Model 3 with 1.75 die for $400.00, that's with no options.

Joe</STRONG>

Online or did you call?

I bought a 10T Portapower over a month ago in preparation for a JD2.. I screwed up and put too much (poly) pipe in the floor for radiant floor heat and didn't bother to mark off any spots where there WASN'T pipe.. so nothing gets anchored to the shop floor. D'oh. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Darn.. guess I have to go hydraulic. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by tsm1mt:
<STRONG>I screwed up and put too much (poly) pipe in the floor for radiant floor heat </STRONG>

Radiant floor heat? Boy you are a wimp
<IMG SRC="smilies/rainbow.gif" border="0">

Joe

Originally posted by tsm1mt:
<STRONG>Online or did you call?</STRONG>

Online here:
Model 3 bender (http://www.vansantent.com/model_3_bender.htm)

Joe

I looked at the Williams low buck model a while back but I see limitations with operating it at odd angles. I've seen a JD2 up close and it was a real nice set up. Don't get em wrong, I have heard nothing but great stuff about the Low-buck tools, I just don't like their bender.

As for my JD2, it was around $1000 for the bender, die, and the port-a-power ram. I'm going to use a std port-a-power hand pump cause $450 for a air over hydraulic is way too much and it's too loud to use all the time in my hood. Also, I have a bunch of friends who all need tube work done so It should pay for itself shortly.

Originally posted by jdjanda:
<STRONG>Radiant floor heat? Boy you are a wimp
<IMG SRC="smilies/rainbow.gif" border="0">

Joe</STRONG>

I'm an old man, I need a warm shop! <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">

Now, if I lived in Kalifornia radiant floor heat would probably be a waste - I'd be pumping cold water through the floor to cool the place off!

But when your winter conditions are like this:

http://walnut.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/trail_rides/january_99/pic14.jpg

You quickly learn the value of the Carhartt Arctic coveralls I'm wearing in the pic. That's in addition to normal warm clothes, the reasonably warm hat and ear-muffs and gloves I'm wearing.. and that was back when the hardtop would still go on "Tigger"!

Brrrrrr. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Besides.. it wasn't "that expensive" to set up compared to the rest of the garage.

<STRONG>Online here:
Model 3 bender</STRONG>


I hadn't seen that place before.. but it looks like they're the same pricing as the

JD Squared (http://www.jd2.com) site.

I'm bummed they don't list a good price on the hydro + degree ring. I don't want the "manual" stuff at all... but if I could get the degree ring for $30.. why not!

-Tom

Here is a picture of an idea I had when i heard that my friends were getting a tube bender.
http://73project.cornbinder.com/graphics/cageideas.jpg
or http://73project.cornbinder.com/graphics/cageideas.jpg

I would like to remove the front fenders completely, like "Cain". I would also like to keep the roof-rack off the roof, for enough to install/remove the top. I think I will use 1.5" tube .120 wall, not sure as to the thickness or type of tube to use.
~Erik

Originally posted by Scout Dude:
<STRONG>I looked at the Williams low buck model a while back but I see limitations with operating it at odd angles. I've seen a JD2 up close and it was a real nice set up. Don't get em wrong, I have heard nothing but great stuff about the Low-buck tools, I just don't like their bender.
</STRONG>

The Low-buck looks cool, but it'll only do 90-deg and has a short list of dies - and that doesn't include 2".

I like the IDEA that I can buy square or round dies in all kinds of sizes for the JD. Not that I can afford them all (today, anyhow).. but if someone wants to bend square tubing for something down the road, they can just buy the die for it..

I just wish the JD2 had 2.25" dies available for exhaust tubing. That would make it completely <IMG SRC="smilies/cool.gif" border="0">


<STRONG>
As for my JD2, it was around $1000 for the bender, die, and the port-a-power ram. </STRONG>

I'm a cheap SOB, too.. and found a new 10Ton PortaPower on Ebay for $150.

"Someday" maybe I'll get the air/hydraulic pump and a big long ram.. but in the meantime, I should be able to make do.

I'm figuring another $500 for the bender and die.. just need to stop by the steel shop and see what my options are $$$-wise locally. I wouldn't want to have to drive to Canada every time I need tubing. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by Scout Dude:
<STRONG>As for my JD2, it was around $1000 for the bender, die, and the port-a-power ram. I'm going to use a std port-a-power hand pump cause $450 for a air over hydraulic is way too much and it's too loud to use all the time in my hood. Also, I have a bunch of friends who all need tube work done so It should pay for itself shortly.</STRONG>

I'm going to skip the hydro setup, for two reasons, one the cost. For as often as I will be using the bender the cost benefit is not there, I'll just use a little elbow grease. Second, I want to mount the bender with 2" tube, so I can mount the unit into a receiver and make the unit somewhat mobile. Hydro just does not fit into the mobile picture.

Joe

I guess you guys missed it. There is a How-to Build your own cage in the Nov 2001 issue of 4 Wheel Drive & SUV mag and they use a SII! Looks like a nice set up.

<IMG width=867 height=651 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/SII_CAGE_1.jpg">

<IMG width=799 height=510 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/SII_CAGE_2.jpg">

Originally posted by jdjanda:
<STRONG>I'm going to skip the hydro setup, for two reasons, one the cost. For as often as I will be using the bender the cost benefit is not there, I'll just use a little elbow grease. Second, I want to mount the bender with 2" tube, so I can mount the unit into a receiver and make the unit somewhat mobile. Hydro just does not fit into the mobile picture.

Joe</STRONG>


Y'know, I caught myself pondering a flow-control valve, hydraulic cylinder, and a Saginaw power steering pump... either engine mounted, or attached to an electric motor..

Set yourself up with a full hydro mobile bending service. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by Old Scout:
<STRONG>I guess you guys missed it. There is a How-to Build your own cage in the Nov 2001 issue of 4 Wheel Drive & SUV mag and they use a SII! Looks like a nice set up.
</STRONG>

They used a Mittler Bros ($3k?) bender. I remember readin' a first installment (I think) - I'll have to look at my latest 4WD&SU for a follow-up or something.. most of the time it's all J**p stuff..

Originally posted by tsm1mt:
<STRONG>They used a Mittler Bros ($3k?) bender. I remember readin' a first installment (I think) - I'll have to look at my latest 4WD&SU for a follow-up or something.. most of the time it's all J**p stuff..</STRONG>

ALL Heep stuff?? I'm not so sure. In the same issue and the scout Cage Tech. Three pics of scouts getting it and two are color, Better than the BB!

<IMG width=730 height=578 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/4WD&SUV_3.jpg">
<IMG width=498 height=580 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/4WD&SUV_2.jpg">
<IMG width=496 height=376 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/4WD&SUV_1.jpg">

[ 10-22-2001: Message edited by: Old Scout ]

Sure hope he has high steering tie rod and drag link!!

Originally posted by Hooper:
<STRONG>Sure hope he has high steering tie rod and drag link!!</STRONG>

Looks hi-steer, look at the pass spring you can see the 'V' made by the drag and tie rod.

Joe

Originally posted by jdjanda:
<STRONG>Cage designs & why. Pre-fab, build your own. What material did you use, any square cages out there. Come Awwwwnnn, let us cage challenged folks in on you secrets.....</STRONG>

If I were to build serious cage I think I'd like 1.75"x.188 wall DOM tube. Currently, Snoopy is getting set for a cage made with 2"x.120 wall...to make sure the 2" will handle repeated rolls I'm planning to gusset the crap out of it. I'm also taking out the rear seat and switching it out with a single rear center mounted seat.

Also planning on cutting away the whole floor plan and starting fresh with some major tube work (to hold the fenders in place) and fabbin up a floor out of some spare expanded steel I've got laying around.

As far as benders, I'd use our JD2 Model 4 Hydro Mandral bender. It keeps the corners clean and strong.

As far as actual design, I'm going to put the hoops facing front instead of the conventional side-to-side stuff. Meaning that the driver side hoop will start behind the driver and move bend forward along the top of the window/door contour and then down into the floor about where my feet are - same on the passenger side. The spreaders will actually run across the cab above the windsheild and behind the drivers head. The CB bars will be criss-cross (x-shape) for added side-to-side strength as well as make room for my big ol mellon <IMG SRC="smilies/massey.gif" border="0">

Then I'd use door-bars to strengthen the hoops with new seat bases built into them. The back would be a standard "fast-back" design with the frame extensions sticking through where the current gas tanks are - the rear spreaders will also be attached via additional cage work to the hoops. A cross section (in back) will allow for the mounting of a 30 gallon fuel cell, tool kit/box, and the single rear seat.

Sections of the back will be built to allow easy mounting of the spare and stuff. I've almost secured some 38x14.50 SS-TSL/SX's for Snoopy and I've already got the T18 and a Dana20 (soon to have a 3.15:1 Terra Low gearset) installed.

Paint and some light body work will be done by a good buddy of mine in Penrose as soon as I get the cage built and the Half-cab welded back on. All in all, I think it'll be a fairly sweet setup.

As soon as I find some time my D44s will be hitting the trails on someone elses rig and I'm going to 14-bolt rear with our 4-link system and quarter elliptic system and the front will be getting a 3-link coil-over. The cage will then be extended to the front of Snoop and tie-ins will be placed where the inner fenders now sit. But thats another section of the story isnn't it.

<IMG SRC="smilies/massey.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by Snoopy:
<STRONG>If I were to build serious cage I think I'd like 1.75"x.188 wall DOM tube. Currently, Snoopy is getting set for a cage made with 2"x.120 wall... <IMG SRC="smilies/massey.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

Wouldn't .188 tube be a litle overkill? You'd almost need the extra material to support all the weight from the cage.

Are you using one of the JD benders in your shop? Have you used it manual with a handle to bend anything. I am wondering if I am kidding myseld by thinking I can bend 2x.120.

Joe

Well let's see, I'm planning on doing something a bit different for the rock fridge. Mostly I'll be it for looks since It'll be a rolling (literally) <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> billboard for my failing business, and I've seen the reaction you can get from a well built cage that was some style to it. But it'll handle some tough rolls too. It'll be built out 1.75" x .120 wall, be 8 point, and bent on my JD2 model 3 bender. The design is kind of hard to describe but it'll look like a spider web from above. Here's a crappy doodle. http://bbs.off-road.com/wwwthreads_uploads/53-574686-rockfridgecage.JPG There'll be a main hoop behind the front seats and from the center of that hoop the spreaders will go out to the other 6 points. The front hoops will pass through the top of the dash to avoid unneccasary bends with another spreader right beneath the dash. The rear will go to the floor which will be tubbed out to give more room since the truck will have a gas tank under the rear like a Scout 2. All the bends on the hoops will be gusseted to to one another to provide the spider web look and strength. The cage will be tied to the frame at 6 of the 8 points with the seats and belts tied into it. Then I'll go through the firewall with 1.75 to the front of the Scout where it'll attach to a hoop over the radiator. The front inner fender wells will be sawzalled out and I'll branch of the 1.75" with 1" x .120 wall to which the fenders, grille, and other accessories will be mounted. I'll have to make a few slight changes to conform to ARCA rules but that's the basic idea. I hope that made some sence because it took quite a while to type <IMG SRC="smilies/sleep.gif" border="0">.

Of course the Scout is on backyard duty right now until I get my bender converted over to hydraulic and a place where I can put the poor truck back together. I also have 2 leads on front Dana 60s I need to check out so I can hopefully run some big meats without breakage. Then the rock fridge should be ready to bend over the ARCA stock modified class smack some bitches up. Of course I'm accepting donations <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
Travis

I got a JD2 model 3 and love it I use it manually and if I used it more I could justify hydro. but not for now. hope to buy some more dies soon. I highly reccomend this bender.
My next bender/fab tool purchase will be a williams notcher.
these Jig a Joint hole saw notchers suck.

Originally posted by Overkiller:
<STRONG>Well let's see, I'm planning on doing something a bit different for the rock fridge. Mostly I'll be it for looks since It'll be a rolling (literally) <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> billboard for my failing business, </STRONG>

Yeah, so what is it you do? <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by jdjanda:
<STRONG>I'm going to skip the hydro setup, for two reasons, one the cost. For as often as I will be using the bender the cost benefit is not there, I'll just use a little elbow grease. Second, I want to mount the bender with 2" tube, so I can mount the unit into a receiver and make the unit somewhat mobile. Hydro just does not fit into the mobile picture.

Joe</STRONG>

Mounting it into a receiver is a good idea. I just didn't want to bolt it to the floor. As for not being portable, I'm using the long ram attached, but it connects to a port-a-power hand pump. It'll go anywhere I need it to.

Originally posted by skeetshooter:
<STRONG>I got a JD2 model 3 and love it I use it manually and if I used it more I could justify hydro. but not for now. hope to buy some more dies soon. I highly reccomend this bender.
My next bender/fab tool purchase will be a williams notcher.
these Jig a Joint hole saw notchers suck.</STRONG>

What stock are you bending with it? Better than the notcher with hole saw setup, one of the vendors has a notcher, stick the tube in pull the handle and bam, one side is done. I figure thats got to beat the setting up the notcher in the drill press, chewing up a hole saw every couple of tubes, plus all the cutting oil mess, and metal shavings.

Joe

If you want to avoid the oily mess everytime you drill or cut something..use a 50/50 mix of soap and water instead of oil. It's cheaper, works great, & easier to clean up after. Just remember to paint what ever you cut so it won't rust.

Originally posted by jdjanda:
<STRONG>This is making me nuts, I need to break down and buy a dam bender. How do you like the unit. Did you go with the $500.00 dollar model? I just priced a Model 3 with 1.75 die for $400.00, that's with no options.

Joe</STRONG>

I bought the hydraulic LowBuck model with a 1.75" die. It cost just over $500, I think, with shipping. So far, it's been excellent. It's hyrdaulic, so it's easy and smooth to use.

The only limitations I see with it is that it only bends up to 90 degrees. Which actually translates to something less than that because of spring-back.

Other than that, I think it's pretty unbeatable. The bends are totally smooth and it doesn't crinkle the tube at all. For simple things like cages and maybe a pre-runner bar or something, I really can't see needing anything more.

Originally posted by JoshC:
<STRONG>Yeah, so what is it you do? <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

Well I was an aspiring fabricator and owner of Overkill Offroad until a year ago when I got caught up in a bad business deal. You guys may have seen this pile of shit on internet jokesMonster Limo (http://www.monsterlimo.com). Well let's just say that things didn't go as planned and I lost a lot of money. Among other things I also lost the welding table I had my bender mounted to. So I haven't done anything business wise for the past year but I want to get back into it once I have my Rock Fridge done and hopefully ARCA ready. In the meantime I'm a pizza delivery technician <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> since the economy took a shit and I lost my old day job. So that's my story.

Mounting it into a receiver is a good idea. I just didn't want to bolt it to the floor. As for not being portable, I'm using the long ram attached, but it connects to a port-a-power hand pump. It'll go anywhere I need it to.

--------------------

Null


I had mine mounted in my reciever for a while. It'll work just make sure the tubing will clear the body of the truck and that your mount is VERY strong. It's amazing the amount of twisting force that you'll place on the mount while bending. I bent up the nerfs on my Taco by sticking the bender in the reciever vertically. It worked great but you're limited to what you can bend by the ground.

What stock are you bending with it? Better than the notcher with hole saw setup, one of the vendors has a notcher, stick the tube in pull the handle and bam, one side is done. I figure thats got to beat the setting up the notcher in the drill press, chewing up a hole saw every couple of tubes, plus all the cutting oil mess, and metal shavings.


I worked in a shop for a while where they used those notchers you're talking about where you pull the handle. I think they are <IMG SRC="smilies/rainbow.gif" border="0"> . You have to shove the tubing in them so hard that it'll usually spin then once you pull the handle you have to spend a few minutes with an angle grinder to get to cope to fit right. I have a hole saw style notcher I use for complecated copes but for simple ones I just use my chop saw. The results are just as good when you get the hang of it. At the old shop I worked at I ended up just using the chop saw and belt sander on all my copes. It was faster and worked great. It pissed my boss off since I wasn't doing it his way though, what an ass, that's probably one of the reasons he fired me. <IMG SRC="smilies/grinpimp.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by skeetshooter:
<STRONG>I got a JD2 model 3 and love it I use it manually and if I used it more I could justify hydro. but not for now. hope to buy some more dies soon. I highly reccomend this bender.
My next bender/fab tool purchase will be a williams notcher.
these Jig a Joint hole saw notchers suck.</STRONG>

Skeetshooter and built the cage on my traveler in about 18 hours and 12 of that was me notching tubes.

We got it put in about 4 hours before we left for a wheeling trip. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

When notching tubes a mistake that alot of people make is that they run the spindle speed too slow on the drill or drill press. and try to cut too fast. I have tried all kinds off cutting fluids and have come to the conclusion that none of them work any better than just running dry. thats right, no coolant at all and be patient dont try to feed it too fast that is what will fawk up the hole saw. Also set up the belts on your drill press so that the belt slips if it binds up and you wont fawk up near as many hole saws. I am going to buy a williams notcher that works like a die cutter. that is what I am talking about. I have been bending 1.75x.120 wall with mine no problems so far. I have built 4 cages with it so far. and have a couple more lined up when I get time. I have a reciever style stand that I made for mine that plugs into the 2.5" reciever in the floor of my shop. which will also be great for frame straightening etc. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

I talked to the guy to the guy (Barret) with the Scout in SUV. He said he was thinking of marketing the cage for $5~600....don't think he was set on it being that low though. It was after he had just built it and wasn't sure how much material was actually used.

[ 10-23-2001: Message edited by: makkat ]

Originally posted by makkat:
<STRONG>I talked to the the guy (Barret) with the Scout SUV. He said he was thinking of marketing the cage for $5~600.....</STRONG>

Who? I'm in the market for a cage, debating on spending the money for a bender or paying someone to fab the cage. If I could have a six point cage with frame ties built for $600, that is the same cost as the JD2 and $200 of tube. I would be hard pressed not to buy the bender and do it myself, then I would always have the bender. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Joe

Originally posted by jdjanda:
<STRONG>Who? </STRONG>

Barret Harrington I believe. I will have to check and see if I have his contact info. He is based out of New Mexico.

Originally posted by makkat:
<STRONG>Barret Harrington I believe. I will have to check and see if I have his contact info. He is based out of New Mexico.</STRONG>

NM is a little far for me. Thanks though.

Joe

Originally posted by jdjanda:
<STRONG>Who? I'm in the market for a cage, debating on spending the money for a bender or paying someone to fab the cage. If I could have a six point cage with frame ties built for $600, that is the same cost as the JD2 and $200 of tube. I would be hard pressed not to buy the bender and do it myself, then I would always have the bender. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Joe</STRONG>

Hey Man,

I have been talking to Mark (Rubicrawler) and he mentioned that a bunch of you get together for your disfunctional sundays. He wanted me to swing on down when the next one was going on. Maybe I could bring my bender with me and we could fab up something for you relatively quick. I'm not looking to profit from this bender, just a little from everyone to help ease the pain of buying it. Let me know.

-Joel

Originally posted by Scout Dude:
<STRONG>Hey Man,

I have been talking to Mark (Rubicrawler) and he mentioned that a bunch of you get together for your disfunctional sundays. He wanted me to swing on down when the next one was going on. Maybe I could bring my bender with me and we could fab up something for you relatively quick. I'm not looking to profit from this bender, just a little from everyone to help ease the pain of buying it. Let me know.

-Joel</STRONG>

We had a bender at the last (first) disfunctional sunday and nobody used it. I think it was cool meeting everybody and drinking beer and eating a wonderful breakfast. Next time we will probably get more work done... Probably.

I think we should focus on the same type of task. Like, cages for everybody. Or, Onboard welders for all, or everyone fixes electrical crap, bumpers for all. Whatever? I think the next one will be at my place! A couple or few weeks from now? --Josh

Originally posted by jdjanda:
<STRONG>Who? I'm in the market for a cage, debating on spending the money for a bender or paying someone to fab the cage. If I could have a six point cage with frame ties built for $600, that is the same cost as the JD2 and $200 of tube. I would be hard pressed not to buy the bender and do it myself, then I would always have the bender. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Joe</STRONG>


Art Morrison (http://www.artmorrison.com/F_RollBarCage.htm) could hook you up.

Send 'em the measurements and they'll bend, notch, and do everything BUT weld it together.

8pt cage of 1.75x.134 for $260 + about $80 truck freight, and they charge you by the foot for any extras (door bars, seat mounts, etc).

Only problem is you'll need to get some GOOD measurements, and there wouldn't be any "just a little more bend here and it'll fit great" after it's been delivered.

-Tom

Originally posted by JoshC:
<STRONG>We had a bender at the last (first) disfunctional sunday and nobody used it. I think it was cool meeting everybody and drinking beer and eating a wonderful breakfast. Next time we will probably get more work done... Probably.

I think we should focus on the same type of task. Like, cages for everybody. Or, Onboard welders for all, or everyone fixes electrical crap, bumpers for all. Whatever? I think the next one will be at my place! A couple or few weeks from now? --Josh</STRONG>


Cool..let me know exactly when. I can't bring my Scout due to it's inability to drive without a transmission or t-case but I got skills <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">. Also, the CALROCS event is on the 17-18th so I can't make it that weekend.

Originally posted by Scout Dude:
<STRONG>
Cool..let me know exactly when. I can't bring my Scout due to it's inability to drive without a transmission or t-case but I got skills <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">. Also, the CALROCS event is on the 17-18th so I can't make it that weekend.</STRONG>

What do you need for the tranny and t-case to get the Scout running. It's always nice to have another Scout along on outings.

Joe

Originally posted by jdjanda:
<STRONG>What do you need for the tranny and t-case to get the Scout running. It's always nice to have another Scout along on outings.

Joe</STRONG>

I just sold my 4x4 SM465 mated to a D20. It'll ship out by the end of the week.

I already picked up a 2wd 465 (35 spline <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">) that is getting mated to a 4.3 Atlas. The Atlas should be here next week but I have floor board mods to finish so I can rotate it all the way up so the underneath will be flat. I also have to finish repairing my collapsed body mount so I can finish my cage & it'll mount solidly. So much to do...

Originally posted by tsm1mt:
<STRONG>8pt cage of 1.75x.134 for $260 + about $80 truck freight, and they charge you by the foot for any extras (door bars, seat mounts, etc).</STRONG>

That is one hell of a good deal. I'd love to rent their shop for a day <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> If I can't work out something else Art sounds like the best deal. Have you used them before?

Joe

Originally posted by Scout Dude:
<STRONG>I already picked up a 2wd 465 (35 spline <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">) that is getting mated to a 4.3 Atlas. The Atlas should be here next week but I have floor board mods to finish so I can rotate it all the way up so the underneath will be flat. I also have to finish repairing my collapsed body mount so I can finish my cage & it'll mount solidly. So much to do...</STRONG>

Nice.... what is the ratio, around 120:1? Sweeeet.

As far as the cage goes, because winter is coming, the top is not coming off anytime soon, I'm going to focus on the auto to manual swap, and then the SOA. By then spring should be here, I'll do the cage, bed liner, etc.

Remaining projects are 4.10's, DL in rear, new tires, and other crap. In other words there will be a whole lot of weekend gatherings.

Joe

Originally posted by jdjanda:
<STRONG>Nice.... what is the ratio, around 120:1? Sweeeet.

As far as the cage goes, because winter is coming, the top is not coming off anytime soon, I'm going to focus on the auto to manual swap, and then the SOA. By then spring should be here, I'll do the cage, bed liner, etc.

Remaining projects are 4.10's, DL in rear, new tires, and other crap. In other words there will be a whole lot of weekend gatherings.

Joe</STRONG>

Nope...only 116 to 1 <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">. At least this way,
I can keep my 4.10's instead of switching to 4.56's.