Gonna be building a towbar to flat tow my jeep. The main question is, how long? I've read people saying longer is better, others say it doesn't matter. 36-44" is about what the prefab ones measure.

Should I make it 60"? Longer? Thanks

btt, ideas

There is more than just length that factors into the length of a towbar.

A towbar acts as a point of leverage on the tow vehicle.

Height of mount on towed vehicle?
Method of mounting?
Weight of towed vehicle?
Specifics on tow vehicle such as wheelbase and weight?

Generally speaking, a longer towbar improves the handling but this improvement isn't indefinite.

For example, before I had my gooseneck I towed a lifted YJ (SOA, 44044 springs, 4,500 lbs) with a shackle mounted towbar behind my F250, CC, SB, no lift truck and depending on the conditions it was possible for the YJ to push the rear of my truck around.

While a two foot longer towbar would provide separation between the vehicles, it wouldn't really change the overall dynamics that much as it is now just a longer level.

height of mount on towed vehicle? the mount on the jeep (yj on 36's, low cog) will be slightly lower than the mount on the truck.
method of mounting? gotta build it. I figured solid mounted to the bumper, maybe a shackle mount.
weight of towed vehicle? 4500?
specifics on tow vehicle such as wheelbase and weight? wb is 131.5", its a 3/4 ton 2wd 84 chevy truck, 5000?
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Standard sized towbar should be fine. Honestly it has more to do with how your jeep handles and how level you keep the tow bar. If your jeep drives like crap on the highway, it'll tow like crap on the highway. I was flat towing my YJ with my wifes little Sorrento for a year or so and never had any issues with it wagging the tow vehicle - hardly noticed it was there. Probally had 1000 miles on this setup.

http://oldjeep.com/images/YJ/July2008/P7120001.JPG

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the mount on the jeep (yj on 36's, low cog) will be slightly lower than the mount on the truck.

If by slightly lower you mean an inch or two then it is fine but ideal is level. On my truck I used an adjustable height hitch to get it level.

What you are concerned with here is ensuring the stress of towing isn't isolated at the ball but rather passes through the ball to put the load on the hitch. Plus too much of an angle might try to push the coupler off the ball.

Yes, it is a small possibility and you want to keep it that way.

gotta build it. I figured solid mounted to the bumper, maybe a shackle mount.
weight of towed vehicle? 4500?

You want to ensure the tow bar can move up and down but not side to side as the towed vehicle's suspension & steering will be doing plenty of that for you.

I have towbar shackles and they are simple and easy. I did upgrade my bolts as the OEM stuff was weak.

wb is 131.5", its a 3/4 ton 2wd 84 chevy truck, 5000?

Should be fine as long as it is in good shape. Remember, the trucks brakes will be stopping the jeep so tow it like a boat.




Another good point was made above in making sure your jeep is road worthy as it is still driving for all basic purposes.

This is why you see most guys getting trailers is because eventually any 4x4 is going to break and you don't want to be stranded trying to figure out how to flat tow it.

If you search there are a couple articles on this where guys made their own towbars with good results if you are inclined.

I went and bought the towing lights from U-haul that have the plastic flap and they are secured through the hard top back glass.

When I bought my gooseneck I added a 4-wire connector into the harness for even better visibility when the jeep is on the trailer since most drivers suck and tailgate the trailer and don't see the lights.

Then again, I added even more lights on the neck but whose counting.

:grinpimp:

get one from harbor freight and start with that.
My latest coupon book they are $36.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94696

get one from harbor freight and start with that.
My latest coupon book they are $36.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94696

Normally I'm a fan of HF - however, a local guy bought one of those and a weld broke almost immediately. Probabally just an isolated incident, but I think I'd pay an extra $50 to get a name brand.

FWIW I broke the bolts (hand tools no breaker bar) on the one that currie used to sell so I upgraded them and added better chains.

I also pass my chains through the hollow crossmember tube in my YJ

keep eyeballs peeled on local for sale boards and craiglists. back in my towbar days i got my drawtite from someone in the trading post for $40.

that would definately suck for a HF bar to break. i betcha there is fine print on the box or inside that will not let them be liable for any damage to the tow or towed rig,busloads of nuns,your life and everyone arounf you,or any stationary objects that are taken out in the process :eek: