Let's here about your shafts:

What are you running, CV non-CV.
Anything odd, custom shaft, etc.
Vendor recommendations (High Angle0
How much did you add or remove after suspension changes.
Binding problems and resolutions


For the front I'll be running my square d-shaft with 1310's. Out back it'll be a standard drive shaft nothing fancy.

Joe <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by jdjanda:
<STRONG>Let's here about your shafts:

What are you running, CV non-CV.
Anything odd, custom shaft, etc.
Vendor recommendations (High Angle0
How much did you add or remove after suspension changes.
Binding problems and resolutions
</STRONG>

Tigger (4" SUA Skyjacker front, SOA rear moved back 7/8") - front stock, rear driveshaft was retubed locally and lengthened 1.75". Now .0883 wall as well. On my second one.

Devil - stock rear from a 4spd SII, front is a Tom Wood's 6 or 7" travel, heavy duty driveshaft to accomodate the RS. Ground the yokes on the 'shaft and pinion/t'case yokes, and still had to remove the zerk fittings to keep it from binding! <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0">

Travelall is running stockers still.. and needs a front axle joint R&R'd..

Originally posted by jdjanda:
<STRONG>Let's here about your shafts:

What are you running, CV non-CV.
Anything odd, custom shaft, etc.
Vendor recommendations (High Angle0
How much did you add or remove after suspension changes.
Binding problems and resolutions
Joe <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"></STRONG>


In the front, I'm using a CV shaft with about 7" of slip or so. After the reverse shackle, I just went down to my local d-shaft shop (Front Range Driveshaft) and had them make a 2" shaft with the longest slip they could without going to one of those rock-crawler shafts.

In the rear, I finally went CV as well. I'm running SOA with 1" springs, which looks like it should work with plain u-joints. But after fooling with it for about a year and still having vibrations, I finally just went with a CV. It's also nice not scraping the rear yoke as much since the pumpkin's now pointed up. I wish I'd done the rear CV a long time ago.

I had the guys at my d-shaft shop practically rolling on the floor laughing at one of my stupid moves regarding my front shaft. Here's what happened: after running the new front shaft for about 6 months, I realized that the clunk I was sometimes hearing when going over bumps and RR crossings was the front shaft bottoming out. Bad, right? I got to looking underneath the front and figured it was just the springs sagging a bit. Also, I made some changes to the front suspension in that I ditched the RS/buggy spring setup for a plain old RS (IMO, buggy's aren't worth it). So with these changes, I figured the geometry had changed and all and that I just needed to shorten the shaft about 1.5". So for $75, I have it done. Guess what happens next... A week later, I realize that the front axle has moved to the rear about 1" due to broken spring center bolts on both sides, that's why the d-shaft appeared too short. So for now, my front shaft shows about 5" of splines and I've only pulled it apart once (on 21 Road last weekend), so for now, I'm living with it. I'll have it lengthened back to where it was one of these days...

With SOA in the truck I am planning on using a cv in the rear and taking two front drivelines and using the slip from each to give me a more versatile front line. <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0"> Should work, I never use 4wd and go fast so this should provide the travel I want. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> maybe this will not work - What does everyone else think???
Ritch <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by nwmud:
<STRONG>With SOA in the truck I am planning on using a cv in the rear and taking two front drivelines and using the slip from each to give me a more versatile front line. <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0"> Should work, I never use 4wd and go fast so this should provide the travel I want. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> maybe this will not work - What does everyone else think???
Ritch <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

That's what I used to use..a double slip yoke front. You have to use thread on caps for this to work.

Both of my driveshafts have been lengthened a couple of times with bulletproof thick wall tube by my Steve at Avalanche. I bought a CV for the front when I did the SOA, and it didn't work (not sure why), so I spent ALOT of time grinding things and got a regular one to fit up front. Good thing my shocks are wrong, they limit the front travel and keep the driveshaft from binding. One of these days I should fix that, I still have the CV shaft somewhere.

Broke the stock rear shaft driving up a simple hill in 2wd after dimpling it in Moab a couple of years ago, and that's when I switched to the thick wall tube. Haven't had any problems since.

Scout Dude,

Why are you not running this same set up any more? Was there any problems with it or did it work good for you.

Ritch

Originally posted by nwmud:
<STRONG>Scout Dude,

Why are you not running this same set up any more? Was there any problems with it or did it work good for you.

Ritch</STRONG>

I lifted my Scout some more (stock waggy's vs 2.5" waggy's) and the front set-up needed to be lengthened. 6" of slip was also not enough for my set-up (RS & long springs=lots of droop). So I opted for the low $$ set-up and fabbed up a square shaft one.

My rear is a shortend Traveler rear driveshaft. Front is a 14" slip joint, some tube I found in the scrap pile that just happend to have a 1.75" ID and thick wall, and a 1310 weld yoke out of a different scrap pile. Total investment, $20, not including u-joints. 1310's all the way around, rear shaft is about 1.5" shorter than the front, they are somewhere around 30" long.

Originally posted by BenW:
<STRONG>My rear is a shortend Traveler rear driveshaft. Front is a 14" slip joint, some tube I found in the scrap pile that just happend to have a 1.75" ID and thick wall, and a 1310 weld yoke out of a different scrap pile. Total investment, $20, not including u-joints. 1310's all the way around, rear shaft is about 1.5" shorter than the front, they are somewhere around 30" long.</STRONG>

Did you move your engine back or something, Ben?

That seems awfully centered.. wait, it was a 4cyl originally..

On my SIIs, I remember with the 4" Skyjacker lift and a 4spd, I had a 24" front and 40" rear 'shaft.

Originally posted by tsm1mt:
<STRONG>Did you move your engine back or something, Ben?

That seems awfully centered.. wait, it was a 4cyl originally..
</STRONG>

The TH400 is long. Several inches longer than the 727 I used to have in there. The engine is farther forward than my old 304, but the rear driveshaft ended up about 4" shorter.

My rear is a shortend Traveler rear driveshaft. Front is a 14" slip joint, some tube I found in the scrap pile that just happend to have a 1.75" ID and thick wall, and a 1310 weld yoke out of a different scrap pile. Total investment, $20, not including u-joints. 1310's all the way around, rear shaft is about 1.5" shorter than the front, they are somewhere around 30" long.

What did the 14" slip come off of?

What did the 14" slip come off of?

It was a steering shaft off of an older COE Semi truck. Approx. 24" of very beefy spline and a 1310 yoke on the bottom.

Cab Over Engine...right? That's an awesome find, we have some PNP close to LA that has a section for semi's and other large trucks, I am ON IT. I currently have 2 1350 cv heads I just took apart and had my neighbor machine them to accept 3.0x.120 DOM. I was searching for Spicer 1350 forged u-joint part numbers with zerks when I came upon this thread. Apparently, spicer does not make forged 1350's with zerks. FYI, I just paid $16.00 ea for four 1350's and $20.00 ea for a couple 1410's at Unitrax in Anaheim CA.

Yes Cab Over Engine. Actually most any semi steering shaft works, but most of the newer semis have a teflon coated 4-spline shaft without the forged yoke. It would work but it isn't as beefy or as long as the older COE shafts.

I am running Tom woods CV shafts front & rear from an atlas II. I think there is 7 in slip on each of em. I will need to put some 1350's in soon though. :D

I've only pulled it apart once (on 21 Road last weekend)..

Is this a trail in the Golden area??

The home of Coors huh!! I liked the tour of the brewery and I don't even drink :D

Where else do you wheel in the area??

I'm running 2.5" rough country springs, SOA, reversed shackle w/ Dana 60 front and 14B ff rear. Using Driveline Specialists 1310 CV front shaft w/ 18" slip and 1350 rear shaft with 12" slip. Like the shafts, but if I had it to do over again, I'd build my own. I am pretty sure early Caddys and Buicks have a 1350 CV, build the shaft and have it balanced. for the front, no need to even have it balanced, my truck doesn't run in 4wd over about 25mph anyway.

Ole Sarge

skymang, do you mean you have 6in compression and 6in extension at ride height when you say 12in of slip?? Also, do you think you actually need that much.... or less/more?

skymang, do you mean you have 6in compression and 6in extension at ride height when you say 12in of slip?? Also, do you think you actually need that much.... or less/more?

Answer is no. A waste of money.

Stock Chevy CV front but lengthened a bit

Stock Chevy rear but shortened a bit and ground the shit out of the T/C yoke. Will be upgrading to CV when I find a good supplier of shaft components.

I have never paid for someone to build me a shaft. Always built my own from recycled parts. Balancing......:rolleyes:

This is running 1410 front and back on t-case and axle. Front is from Jess at High angle driveline and its a two piece. Rear is just a non cv shaft that we built.
http://i776.photobucket.com/albums/yy50/Copperhead42/IMG_0104.jpg

Holy old post.

D60s, 4" lift, stock Scout II driveshafts for now.