Pretty much good news from the machine shop. Heads checked out ok, no cracks. He said the seals were a little brittle (duh!) and that they did need a valve job. No burnt valves, all seats were good, all guides were good. Bottom line, I will be out the door with tanking, liquid leak test, magna-flux, surfacing and valve job for $135 labor + $22 for new seals.

Do not let him Knurl the valve guides! Sleeve them or leave them. Are you going to update your valve stem seals with perfect circle type?

Yes, getting the good seals. He doesn't need to touch the guides at all. They are fine just the way they are. Just getting a valve job and new seals and surfacing.

cool beens!!!


don't totch the bottom end, slap it togethr with new gaskets and goop, and instual that fawker and run!!!!


the more you mess with it, the more $$ it will cost.


replace the front and rear main seals though.... or they WILL leak [BTDT]


Permatex "Right Stuff" is your friend, head gaskets, intake gaskets, oil-pump gaskets, glue the rest :D (or uses common sence, I'm sure I missed a couple that *should* be gaskets).


Glue the valve covers, valley pan, oil pan and front cover.... less (not 0%) chance of leaks ;)








now GET OUT AND WHEEL YOU DAMN WEB WHEELER!!!


:flipoff2:

Are you tight with the machinist? My head guy ( insert joke here) will not use the perfect circle type valve stem seal on stock/OEM cast iron valve guides. He said the the seals work too well and the valve stem runs to dry and can wear out quickly. A bronze liner or a full bronze guide is the only way he will set up the heads leaving his shop with P.C. seals.

No, not really tight with the shop. These guys are GOOD, they have been around for a long long time. They have their recomendations as to whats best, but in the end, they won't argue with the customer. If Joe Blow is dead set on something and wants to pay for it, that's what he'll get. I told him I wanted the good seals, but was unaware of that issue. Thanks for the heads up (no pun intended)!! I'll ask him for his opinion on it and go with what he thinks is best.

Originally posted by Old Scout
Are you tight with the machinist? My head guy ( insert joke here) will not use the perfect circle type valve stem seal on stock/OEM cast iron valve guides. He said the the seals work too well and the valve stem runs to dry and can wear out quickly. A bronze liner or a full bronze guide is the only way he will set up the heads leaving his shop with P.C. seals.



I've heard that too...

I had mine done with "normal seals", and its worked fine.. little puff on start-up... but its been a couple years sence the re-build...


not enough for me to worry about, but I would probably do the PC next time..... course Tommy keeps breaking rockers... and there is supition the PC *may* have something to do with it..... :eek:

Originally posted by RustoleumWhite
cool beens!!!


don't totch the bottom end, slap it togethr with new gaskets and goop, and instual that fawker and run!!!!


the more you mess with it, the more $$ it will cost.


replace the front and rear main seals though.... or they WILL leak [BTDT]


Permatex "Right Stuff" is your friend, head gaskets, intake gaskets, oil-pump gaskets, glue the rest :D (or uses common sence, I'm sure I missed a couple that *should* be gaskets).




Glue the valve covers, valley pan, oil pan and front cover.... less (not 0%) chance of leaks ;)








now GET OUT AND WHEEL YOU DAMN WEB WHEELER!!!


:flipoff2:
Too late, I already took the main caps off and wasn't totally thrilled with what I saw. I'm going to put new inserts in the bottom end and have the crank polished. Also plan on re-ringing it while I'm in there. Besides, I couldn't wheel it anyway until I can find a fuckin' Q-jet :mad: or save up more $$$ for the fuelie parts I need to round out that project.

why you so set on the Q-jet??


ain't you got a good 2-barrel and manifold?? Slap that on and run it till you find your Q-jet and have it re-built, then swap them over (2-hour progect, with :beer: break)


then your out and wheeling and not at home wimpering :D

Originally posted by RustoleumWhite

Tommy keeps breaking rockers... and there is supition the PC *may* have something to do with it..... :eek:

Amazing what a stuck valve can do!

BTW I have a standard Umbrella seal on my valves. There a happy medium, better than the o-ring but no special machining like the PC type.

Originally posted by Old Scout


Amazing what a stuck valve can do!

since when was it a stuck valve?!?! Last I heard no one knew what was causing it, and now that he's stoped driving to long/hard I haven't heard of any more...


and iirc, it was never the same rocker.....



Tommy?!?!?!

Originally posted by RustoleumWhite


since when was it a stuck valve?!?! Last I heard no one knew what was causing it, and now that he's stoped driving to long/hard I haven't heard of any more...


and iirc, it was never the same rocker.....



Tommy?!?!?!

Never the same one twice.

Best expert guess is I just have the wrong combo of the right parts.

LS6 springs with 155lbs seat pressure, old style welded rockers, and the PC seals.

Change any one of those 3 things, and I'd probably be fine.

Combination of the stiff springs, shoddy heat-treat on the rockers, and the PC seals making the valve run a little drier than normal = :nuke:

Might be slightly sticking, or just dragging more than they should, or whatever.. but the result is -

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/trips/2001/trip00.jpg
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/trips/2001/trip01.jpg

I seem to have a set of the welded rockers with a good heat treat on now.. but we'll see. :D

FWIW, I'm going with O-rings on the truck 392, normal HO BBC valve springs, and if I can find a set of boat rockers and pushrods I may run them.. I was going to, but then saw the 4 or 5 sets of welded rockers just sitting in a pile, ready to be used.. and as long as I don't run the LS6 springs and PC seals, they'll probably hold up fine.

I was just disappointed with how (un)reliable my "build it once and forget about it" 345 in my Scout's done..

Other than the rockers, it's been great.

Meanwhile, the race 304 runs heavier springs than the LS6 ones, O-rings, and the same cam and welded rockers.. and it's fine.

Originally posted by RustoleumWhite
why you so set on the Q-jet??


ain't you got a good 2-barrel and manifold?? Slap that on and run it till you find your Q-jet and have it re-built, then swap them over (2-hour progect, with :beer: break)


then your out and wheeling and not at home wimpering :D
Don't have a 2bbl manifold.... my engine is from a 1980 Scout II and has the 4bbl spreadbore. Thus the need for the Q-jet. The 2bbl manifold is one of the pieces I need to round up for the fuelie project. There aren't any IH's to speak of in the yards around here so I can't just run down and grab one. Shipping one of those heavy bastards from anywhere pretty much kills the deal on getting one sent to me so I'll probably have to wait till I'm out visiting my brother next time and swing by Coonrod's or something. So until then, I guess I'll just have to sit here and wimper and whine like a :crybaby: . :flipoff2:

Originally posted by TORC

Shipping one of those heavy bastards from anywhere pretty much kills the deal on getting one sent to me so I'll probably

Should only be about $30 freight to ship an intake..

Right Mark? :D

That's about what it cost me to send my 2bbl to Rusty..

That's not TOO bad on shipping..... so, who's got a 2bbl 345 mani that they want to part with?

I got a shelf of them.... I'll send you one, as long as you promise to buy a modified one from me come efi time!!


:D

Originally posted by TORC
That's not TOO bad on shipping..... so, who's got a 2bbl 345 mani that they want to part with?

I will be in Junction City/Manhattan next weekend...you want me to see if I can find one?