I saw somewhere that they sell caster correctors for IN Scout Dana44's. Are these things worth the $40 +/- ?? Is there an easier/cheaper ($40 is pretty cheap if it works) way of fixing the 0 caster situation that Scout Dana44's provide?

Now before everyone goes and flames me for putting Scout axles in my Jeep YJ, remember that I got them from a junk yard and remember what would have happened to them if I hadn't have put them to SOME good use. <IMG SRC="smilies/roxy.gif" border="0">

Every body puts em under Heeps. No offense taken. For 40 bucks, they are better than nothin! I havn't used them, but I hear they work ok. --Josh

Whats an IN Scout? We talk about IH's here. <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0"> Also, whats an SM265? Is that like an SM465, but only a 2 speed instead of 4? <IMG SRC="smilies/laughing.gif" border="0">

[ 10-03-2001: Message edited by: BenW ]

Originally posted by BenW:
<STRONG>Whats an IN Scout? We talk about IH's here. <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0"> Also, whats an SM265? Is that like an SM465, but only a 2 speed instead of 4? <IMG SRC="smilies/laughing.gif" border="0">

[ 10-03-2001: Message edited by: BenW ]</STRONG>

That's correct... my SM465 only works correctly in 1st and second gear, hence the SM265... LOL

Figures... I thought everyone would be up in arms about me "butchering" a Scout to build up my Jeep, and instead, everyone bitches about my typing skills... LOL


<IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

I was under the impression that heeps had to have IH parts to make them work???? <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by RO:
<STRONG>I was under the impression that heeps had to have IH parts to make them work???? <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0"></STRONG>


Nope, they don't have to use them to make them work... they just need them to make them durable...
<IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Caster shims work fine. They sandwich between the perch and springs. Biggest problem is that the thicker shims are fat enough that the top of the center pin does not seat deeply into the perch. You will need to get some spacers to raise the center pin head above the shim. also, the hole in the shim is always quite large, and allows slop. I drilled mine out just enough to fit a series of flat washers in there. Those served as my spacers, as well as keeping the shim centered and in place. The shims will try to walk around on you, no matter how tight you clamp the ubolts. You might think about drilling a second small hole through the shim and into the perch, and putting another rod in that one, ground off smooth with the face of the shim. That will keep the shim from rotating around the center pin, as it likes to do.

Remember, though, putting shims in rotates your pinion downward, closer ot the rocks, and exposes your yokes. It also gives you uneven ujoint angles, although 2 to 4 degrees is not bad. You *might* still get some vibration.

Better off to cut and turn the knuckle to give you caster, but that is also a lot of work.

Patrick

Maggie, you gotta to watch it here in IH land. A lot of people have wonder onto this board by mistake and never heard from again. Rumor is they wind up in a secure location repairing rust on the Scout tubs. Most of the IH guys cut on turn their axles, but for a heep might be a quick fix, the correctors can only correct up to ?3? degrees. So if you pointed your pumpkin up at the T-case, and wonder why the heep is all over the road, they ain't going to help.

Joe <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by Hooper:
<STRONG>Caster shims work fine. </STRONG>

Patrick, he's talking about the cammed balljoint inserts, not shims. I'd try the caster correctors first, then add some shims if you need more.

[ 10-03-2001: Message edited by: BenW ]

NAPA them for about 18.00

Whats up with Hooper that is two days in row he got lost. You ok man?

[ 10-03-2001: Message edited by: Old Scout ]

Originally posted by jdjanda:
<STRONG>Maggie, you gotta to watch it here in IH land. A lot of people have wonder onto this board by mistake and never heard from again. Rumor is they wind up in a secure location repairing rust on the Scout tubs. Most of the IH guys cut on turn their axles, but for a heep might be a quick fix, the correctors can only correct up to ?3? degrees. So if you pointed your pumpkin up at the T-case, and wonder why the heep is all over the road, they ain't going to help.

Joe <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

Well, being the lazy-and-cheap-son-of-a-bitch that I am, I didn't bother pointing the diff any different than a Scout's is. It's straight parallel to the ground. I have no complaints about vibrations at all, even with a steep driveshaft angle (CV front shaft). I've even driven home in front wheel drive 3 times, each time at highway speeds and with no adverse effects. I really only want to make the thing track a little better on the highway and center itself a little better after turns. Thus, the reason for looking into Caster Correctors, those little cone shaped thingies that go in the ball joints to adjust the caster.

I did have to put shims in the front because I put the perches on at the wrong angles (OOPS - found that out AFTER I had everything all welded up and I was too lazy to break out the grinder)
http://www.cafes.net/epp/CasterCorrectors.htm

These are what I'm talking about in case anyone is wondering. I've also heard that you can just get tapered washers instead, but nobody can seem to give me a part number or anything to ask for at NAPA, and my local NAPA SUCKS. If you don't come in there with a part number in hand, they look at you like a lost puppy dog.

Thanks in advance!

Matt

Originally posted by Old Scout:
<STRONG>NAPA them for about 18.00

Whats up with Hooper that is two days in row he got lost. You ok man?

[ 10-03-2001: Message edited by: Old Scout ]</STRONG>

Grrrrrrr.

Lost again in shim land.

Caster correctors are not going to do much. I tried 2 degree shims, didn't notice any difference at all. I suppose 3 degrees might help a little, but you gotta get up around 4 before it is noticeable.

At least, that was how mine were.

And, when I was fighting my caster problems 4 years ago, none of you were around to help me out, so I had to go with shims. Now, when folks talk about correcting caster, I automatically get lost in my past frustrations!

Still, it was an excellent discourse on shims!!!
<IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

I just had my pinion angle changed 9 degrees and the caster 6degrees positive. Pressed out the tubes and did what they do. Cost was not too bad but time it took them sucked ballsack.

Originally posted by Brawler:
<STRONG>I just had my pinion angle changed 9 degrees and the caster 6degrees positive. Pressed out the tubes and did what they do. Cost was not too bad but time it took them sucked ballsack.</STRONG>

<newbie-sounding-stuff>

OK... I'm gonna sound like a newbie here for a brief second... when you say "positive caster", the top of the knuckles is further back than the bottom of the knuckle, right? So that means that you have like a 15 degree angle between the center line of the knuckle and the center line of the pinion, right?

</newbie-sounding-stuff>

Matt (I could sure use a Marguerita or 3 right about now... <IMG SRC="smilies/blender.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/blender.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/blender.gif" border="0"> )

[ 10-04-2001: Message edited by: ManglerYROC Z ]

Originally posted by Old Scout:
<STRONG>NAPA them for about 18.00

Whats up with Hooper that is two days in row he got lost. You ok man?

[ 10-03-2001: Message edited by: Old Scout ]</STRONG>


NAPA has them ? Any idea what the part number or application is?

- Found em

NAPA Camber / Caster Bushing
NCP2641542 $ 19.49
4 Wheel Drive;1-1/4 Degree


NAPA Camber / Caster Bushing
NCP2641543 $ 19.49
4 Wheel Drive;1-1/2 Degree


NAPA Camber / Caster Bushing
NCP2641538 $ 21.49
4 Wheel Drive;1/4 Degree


NAPA Camber / Caster Bushing
NCP2641539 $ 21.49
4 Wheel Drive;1/2 Degree


NAPA Camber / Caster Bushing
NCP2641540 $ 21.49
4 Wheel Drive;3/4 Degree


NAPA Camber / Caster Bushing
NCP2641541 $ 21.49
4 Wheel Drive;1 Degree


NAPA Camber / Caster Shim
NCP2642402 $ 21.49
4 Wheel Drive Camber 1/4 Degree Shim


NAPA Camber / Caster Shim
NCP2642403 $ 21.49
4 Wheel Drive Camber 3/8 Degree Shim


NAPA Camber / Caster Shim
NCP2642404 $ 21.49
4 Wheel Drive Camber 1/2 Degree Shim


NAPA Camber / Caster Shim
NCP2642405 $ 21.49
4 Wheel Drive Camber 5/8 Degree Shim

[ 10-04-2001: Message edited by: old jeep ]

Hey, I want to sound like a real novice newbie for a minute (or longer) ands ask a question I am sure someone will be knid enough to put in easy newbie language for me to understand. <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
What is positive and negative caster?
How does negative caster happen?
What should the caster be if you want to tow your rig with out a trailer?
Thanks in advance.
Ritch

Originally posted by nwmud:
<STRONG>Hey, I want to sound like a real novice newbie for a minute (or longer) ands ask a question I am sure someone will be knid enough to put in easy newbie language for me to understand. <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
What is positive and negative caster?
How does negative caster happen?
What should the caster be if you want to tow your rig with out a trailer?
Thanks in advance.
Ritch</STRONG>

This is where I send my 11 year old when he asks questions like that <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> www.howstuffworks.com (http://www.howstuffworks.com) http://autorepair.about.com/library/glossary/bldef-109.htm?iam=howstuffworks_SKD&terms=caster

Thanks for the information, but not enough pictures. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
Perhaps I should define my objective -
What is the ideal set up for a Scout II?
I am doing a SOA and want to be able to tow the truck behind my wifes rig with a tow bar.
Q - What would be ideal Camber & Caster?
& yes we will turn the knuckles. I know it should be positive, but how much? <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0">
Ritch

I went with a SOA and 2" skyjacker lift springs and used 9 pinion and 6 positive caster. I think it depends on your lift and if you have SOA.

Originally posted by nwmud:
<STRONG>Thanks for the information, but not enough pictures. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
Perhaps I should define my objective -
What is the ideal set up for a Scout II?
I am doing a SOA and want to be able to tow the truck behind my wifes rig with a tow bar.
Q - What would be ideal Camber & Caster?
& yes we will turn the knuckles. I know it should be positive, but how much? <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0">
Ritch</STRONG>


My Willys tows just fine behind my truck with 0 degrees of caster. But I think 4-6 degrees is what folks normally say is good. More with power steering less with manual. (Because the more caster you have the harder it is to turn the wheels)

Thanks for the extra newbie info. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
From what I have learned - I believe just grind off the knuckles and do it right.
Ritch

Originally posted by ManglerYROC Z:
<STRONG><newbie-sounding-stuff>

OK... I'm gonna sound like a newbie here for a brief second... when you say "positive caster", the top of the knuckles is further back than the bottom of the knuckle, right? So that means that you have like a 15 degree angle between the center line of the knuckle and the center line of the pinion, right?

</newbie-sounding-stuff>

Matt (I could sure use a Marguerita or 3 right about now... <IMG SRC="smilies/blender.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/blender.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/blender.gif" border="0"> )

[ 10-04-2001: Message edited by: ManglerYROC Z ]</STRONG>

Depends on where you are standing, answer could be yes both ways. Do you go both ways? <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">

Joe <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0">