All right let's get it on. Money no object, what suspension set up would you run and why?

Joe <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0">

I’m kinda of a simpleton. I like the SOA setup. The link setups just seem to have a lot of issues, with balance front and rear, I’m kinda of a simpleton. I like the SOA setup. The link setups just seem to have a lot of issues, with balance front and rear, extra parts to carry, etc. I would rather wheel and forget about it. Ultimate setup for me would be custom front and rear spring packs, 2” lift in the rear, 1” lift in the front. Lots of thin springs, with Teflon pads. Possibly remote reservoir shocks, in the rear I would use the Bronco trick and extend the shocks vertically and notch the bed area, for better performance. Or possibly a rear cantilever setup, as Hoop had mentioned a while back. Rear track bar to help with axle wrap. Maybe a shackle reversal up front. The 2” lift in the rear would give me the extra inch needed when the rig is fully loaded, so she would sit level. With room to stuff the tires completely with zero rub.

Joe <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0">

I agree but a coilover setup would be nice. I would want something still streetable yet able to get crazy on the trails too. Like a swaybar disco only way more than just what that does...

I love to watch the guys with the 1/4 elip set ups, <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0"> but I will be running a SOA conversion without doing the shackle reversal. <IMG SRC="smilies/innocent.gif" border="0"> No additional lift with sawzall custom work to get the tires to fit. <IMG SRC="smilies/skull.gif" border="0"> I will cut out the inner fenderwells before doing a body lift of extra suspension lift. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> Why do it this way. I want the best COG I can keep, yet The SOA will provide a articulation I desire. Call me crazy, but this is what has been discussed and decided in my little group of friends, and I do believe...
Ritch <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">

I had originally had my mind set to run coil-overs. I was still running the 1.75" wide stock springs with 2" add-a-leaf on 32's with the stock axles. When I decided to change to the front D44 and the rear 60, I decided that I should upgrade the suspension now and I could always change to coil-overs later. I must say that there was a huge improvement between the 1.75" wide and the 2.5" wide springs--partially due to the new springs being longer. I think that once I get the bugs worked out, I will keep it SOA on leaves...JMO

For the neighbors 800 - 4" CJ lift springs, SUA, and mildy cut fenders. Should fit 35's just fine.

I'm kinda partial to my 1/4 elip <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Coil just regular old coils, not coil over. Coil over are big $$ and noisy on the street.

It depends on the wheelin you're gonna do. For me, I need a daily driver/decent wheeler that will crawl rocks and go 60 down a baja dirt road. So, that in mind, and after trying almost every lift kit out there(I've owned about 14 scouts since I was 16), I'm now going to reverse shack front with 4" triangles and soa rear with full adaleaf. All the shock mounts get lengthened for long travel shocks(9012/frt, 9010/rr). Not an unlimited budget, but you gotta realize it's fun to be a cheap ass...um I mean Scout owner <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0">

Old Jeep- If you neighbor goes with the Trailmaster 55-75 CJ-5 4" lift he will only be able to fit 33's and they will need the fenders to be trimed to fit. And you will need to reposition the front shackle mounts.

I am currently running a trailmaster early cj 4" lift SUA with front 1" shackle and rear 3" shackle and it still sits nose high. I have 32's and have had the fenders trimmed to fit. I am going to SOA the rear to get her to sit level, and then when I finsh up my scout II d44s I am going SOA all the way around.

I would love to coilover my truck, gives you get balance between street and trail ablities. But then again so does the SOA. But being a poor college wheeler, I will only be able to go SOA for quite a while.

Originally posted by scoutman:
<STRONG>Old Jeep- If you neighbor goes with the Trailmaster 55-75 CJ-5 4" lift he will only be able to fit 33's and they will need the fenders to be trimed to fit. And you will need to reposition the front shackle mounts.

I am currently running a trailmaster early cj 4" lift SUA with front 1" shackle and rear 3" shackle and it still sits nose high. I have 32's and have had the fenders trimmed to fit. I am going to SOA the rear to get her to sit level, and then when I finsh up my scout II d44s I am going SOA all the way around.

I would love to coilover my truck, gives you get balance between street and trail ablities. But then again so does the SOA. But being a poor college wheeler, I will only be able to go SOA for quite a while.</STRONG>


Superlift HD 4" lift. Right now with stock springs and some really scary looking shackles it can fit 33's. Not a lot of room to move, but the owner isn't too extreme anyway. It'll be a hunting rig so it needs to go through mud or snow, but no rock crawling so articulation isn't much of an issue.

Originally posted by jdjanda:
<STRONG>All right let's get it on. Money no object, what suspension set up would you run and why?

Joe <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

Depends on which rig. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Coil-overs, CroMo 4-links front/rear. Why? WEIGHT, travel, and *coils*. No more wheel-hop either.

But that's for the go-fast rig.


Trail rig? Probably plain old SOA leaf sprung.. custom springs perhaps that don't mind "negative" and/or tension shackle in the rear to help 'em last a while.

Maybe floating shackles in the rear and a simple link setup to cure wheel-hop.

Originally posted by jdjanda:
<STRONG>All right let's get it on. Money no object, what suspension set up would you run and why?

Joe <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

SOA front and rear. You get clearance, you get flex. It is *relatively* simple. All the issues can be addressed. It is strong, yet supple. <g>

No RS for me. We've been over that argument <g>

No add a leafs, either, although that pretty much limits me to 35 inch tires without getting out the sawzall.

No lift springs for me. The added arch causes serious centering problems that can be tricky to address. Plus, Rob M has 2" lift springs on his, and my front end flexed far, far better than his. True, the lift springs allow him to run 36's to my 33's, so he has an additional 1 1/2" of clearance under axles, frame and rocker, but I'll take the flex over the clearance. Besides, my COG is better.

Now, that is a good topic of discussion. Flex vs clearance. Am I better off losing some flex to get more clearance? Or better off being flexy and sacrificing the extra inch or so?

Originally posted by Hooper:
<STRONG>
Now, that is a good topic of discussion. Flex vs clearance. Am I better off losing some flex to get more clearance? Or better off being flexy and sacrificing the extra inch or so?</STRONG>

The trade off is not flex vs clearance, the trade off is clearance vs. uncut body. You can cut your fenders enough to fit 36" (or 38") without changing your springs. If you get really handy at the body work you could raise the wheel arches and keep an uncut look with bigger wheel wells and bigger tires.

[ 10-04-2001: Message edited by: BenW ]

Originally posted by BenW:
<STRONG>The trade off is not flex vs clearance, the trade off is clearance vs. uncut body. You can cut your fenders enough to fit 36" (or 38") without changing your springs. If you get really handy at the body work you could raise the wheel arches and keep an uncut look with bigger wheel wells and bigger tires.

[ 10-04-2001: Message edited by: BenW ]</STRONG>


DROP THE SAWZALL AND STEP AWAY FROM MY RIG!!!!!

Originally posted by Hooper:
<STRONG>
DROP THE SAWZALL AND STEP AWAY FROM MY RIG!!!!!</STRONG>

C'mon, Pat - we're just trying to help! <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

As for clearance vs. flex.. in the winter, I'll take TIRES over flex. In the summer, flex is more useful.

I can flex pretty well with 31x10.50s on "Tigger".. but clearance sucks. I can still get around well enough in the summer and just dodge the rocks.

OTOH, in the winter, the snow gets deep, and I find myself sitting on the frame rails.

With the 33x12.50s I rub more, but I can float better. 35s and NO up-travel would probably work even better in the snow.

My friend's 42s work better than snow-shoes. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

But.. like Ben said.. let's cut it and you can flex with the big tires and save yourself the effort of changing tires with the seasons. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by tsm1mt:
<STRONG>C'mon, Pat - we're just trying to help! <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

As for clearance vs. flex.. in the winter, I'll take TIRES over flex. In the summer, flex is more useful.

I can flex pretty well with 31x10.50s on "Tigger".. but clearance sucks. I can still get around well enough in the summer and just dodge the rocks.

OTOH, in the winter, the snow gets deep, and I find myself sitting on the frame rails.

With the 33x12.50s I rub more, but I can float better. 35s and NO up-travel would probably work even better in the snow.

My friend's 42s work better than snow-shoes. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

But.. like Ben said.. let's cut it and you can flex with the big tires and save yourself the effort of changing tires with the seasons. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

I just can't hack up the Hooper truck. I can't do it. Gonna have to make do with the 35's I guess.

<IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Be fun to do some snow runs with the SOA though. No more snow plows under the axles. Glad you guys talked me into the full SOA, instead of front lift springs. It was a lot more work, but the results are much better, for me.

Thats why I said find a skilled body man and have him raise & lengthen the wheel arches. Looks stock, but bigger. <IMG SRC="smilies/glasses.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by BenW:
<STRONG>Thats why I said find a skilled body man and have him raise & lengthen the wheel arches. Looks stock, but bigger. <IMG SRC="smilies/glasses.gif" border="0"></STRONG>


Hmmm, Guess I can consider that.<g>

Originally posted by BenW:
<STRONG>Thats why I said find a skilled body man and have him raise & lengthen the wheel arches. Looks stock, but bigger. <IMG SRC="smilies/glasses.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

That should read, "Not Dooothie" <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">

Look at it this way, Pat - if you have any rust on the Hooper-mobile, it's in those wheel arches.. and the best way to stop a cancer is to cut it out.

It HAS to happen to keep the infection from spreading. Think what the alternative is!!! <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by tsm1mt:
<STRONG>That should read, "Not Dooothie" <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">

Look at it this way, Pat - if you have any rust on the Hooper-mobile, it's in those wheel arches.. and the best way to stop a cancer is to cut it out.

It HAS to happen to keep the infection from spreading. Think what the alternative is!!! <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"></STRONG>


But that is the problem. I am not rusty!!! <g>

Originally posted by tsm1mt:
<STRONG>That should read, "Not Dooothie" <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">

<IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

<IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0"> Your just jealous of my finess with a skillsaw <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">

I'am steping up to 38's from 36's, i don't want to lift it any higher (SOA, RS, 2 1/2 in springs), so to fit the 38's i'am raising the archs up 3" and out 3" for the uncut look. I'am a body man so i can do the work. The front will be easy but the rear will be a little harder the stock wheel house isn't big enuff so in gos a pair of 73-87 chevy truck wheel houses. I will post pics when done

Good topic. I originally didn't plan on doing any serious modifications other than the motor and 4" lift when I put my scout on stands but the wife has decided that it should now be considered a 'project'. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> With that in mind the intended use has changed from daily driver/hauler/mild trai to hauler/trail rig.
Seems that I'll have the time to spend doing some mods myself so it's time to learn how to weld. Looking more like SOA since I won't be relying on it for transpo.

Hey Baja Binder, how long you been in Santa Cruz? I went to Soquel High back in the...um...'70's in think it was. <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0">

Is it my imagination or are there a hell of a lot more posts lately?

Hey Chuck, I've only been here for about 6 years now. I came down from the east bay area for the waves and wind, and to leave the insanity of freeway trafic. Great place, but it costs more than its worth to live here. <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0">

I wasn't going to post this topic at first since I don't think my idea is special in any way. but what the hell,

First step is SOA on 2.5" wide springs. The rear will use GM spring hangers off of the frame and probably F-150 rear springs.

The front springs...I havent given much thought yet since I don't want to crate or modify the spring hangers, so whatever will fit and give me the same as stock height and is 2.5" wide. and a Shackle Rev. (so maybe whatever springs I like since I guess I'd have to modify the spring mounts)

Axles: FF 14 rear out of a Dually Cab chassis Chevy. 63" wide fromt the factory and still uses regular FF14 bolt inner axles so replacements ( if necessary <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0"> ) are readily available. W/4.56 gears

Front either shortening my 8-lug 44 or getting a D60 and shortening it to 63" W/4.56 gears

63" is just a few inches wider than stock but MUCH beefier. Plus I was thinking of getting rims that hung out farther and this way I don't have to.

I was thinking of going orbit eye on the front springs but I'm not sure of it's "streetability" But I will be running "spring rockers" in the rear and I will make sure the way I mount my rear springs will take-up the extra 1.5-2" of the spring rockers.

Engine: 500ci caddy engine pretty much stock with some invisible tricks to increase HP, and TQ.

And either the TF727 and D20 or if I can find a BOP-TH400 and a D20.

If I cant work out either of those I'll use my TH350 NP205 set-up that I already have and I know will work

6pt cage. And a trailer to haul camping gear.

I think that's it. <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">

I almost forgot 37x12.5 SSR's

[ 10-05-2001: Message edited by: Cliffhanger ]

I would like to go 4 link coil suspension on the rear or maybe even 1/4 eliptical, just for the reason that I could bob the frame immediately past my axle.

The overhang sucks on Travelers. I would also like to get a couple inches taller, do some sawing on my body panels and sit it all on top of some 37" or bigger Boggers.

With my 118" wheelbase I could get over a lot more stuff if I had all these little projects completed. <IMG SRC="smilies/jeep1.gif" border="0">

Four link rear, with a triangulated three link in the front. SOA with dual shackles front and rear. 16" Sway-a-way 2" body shocks. Simple and super effective. In fact i just may do this some day when i get another 3k.

Originally posted by Old Scout:
<STRONG>Coil just regular old coils, not coil over. Coil over are big $$ and noisy on the street.</STRONG>

Why is this setup noisy on the street? rubber squeak???

Originally posted by jdjanda:
<STRONG>...Money no object, what suspension set up would you run and why?</STRONG>

I think some have forgotten to read the "money no object" part.

Anyway, I'm going 4-link rear with 1/4 ellipts in back with a 3-link w/ panhard bar and coils or coil-over-shocks up front.

Lil Mule loved its rear 1/4 ellip and now that we are having a particular company make sway bars for our Scouts - cornering won't be such a problem. Besides, those who say that 4-links don't belong on the street need to visit their friendly Jeep and Dodge dealers. Lil Mule worked wonders on and off road - got a little slanted on hard corners (at speed) - but Scouts are not the speed demons that we make them sometimes.

Why? (hate to get all technical about this, but) Well, my wife loved the 1/4 ellip in the back of Mule - said "Its a lot more comfortable now" - meaning there is less *giggle* factor ~ guys you know what I mean. That may seem like a lame excuse, but married folk know that "when mama aint happy ~ NOBODY happy" Then again, I can get good performance out of a coil-over-shock rear as well ~ but the 1/4's will usually net "Stupid Flex"

Front 3-link because we already have one. Regular coils would be used if I want what I call "Stupid Flex" (a.k.a.: meaningless no-use but cool factor flex) You get "SF" becuase you can make them to allow the coil to drop away from the frame.

Coil-over-shocks if I want "Crazy Flex" and sweet looking yummy's (another techincal term). They give positive push on the tires (preloaded) and work just as good on-road. Besides, because you can get every kind of spring rate, you can adjust your ride height and firmness. All in all, the best bang for the buck....to some.


<IMG SRC="smilies/massey.gif" border="0">

Ehmmm, sway bars? Snoop, what's the deal, details please.

Joe <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0">