anyone have a good writeup or pics for doing these.

I see a lot of people in the past like taradons and exaxt brake kits. exaxts are $$$$$$ though and seems like you could do for a lot less. I looked at the weps kit but not sure how I feel about turning the stock hub and welding it and it lasting through trail abuse. I was also thinking of building my own using toyota rotors so I could just drill a 6x5.5 pattern on the stock hub.

I haven't seen any pick of a pinion conversion going together, only the parts sitting outside the axle. anyone know what seal is being used to make these?

just got my 404's to put under a toy and debating 6x5.5 or 8x6.5 as I already have beadlocked rims for both. my buddy is running 8x6.5 so I would prefer to run the same to be able to interchange easily on a trail repair.

thought I would update4 with some pics I found on a pinion conversion.
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h271/rusty_walker/the%20white%20jeep/front%20yoke/IMG00182.jpg

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h271/rusty_walker/the%20white%20jeep/front%20yoke/IMG00183.jpg

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h271/rusty_walker/the%20white%20jeep/front%20yoke/IMG00184.jpg

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h271/rusty_walker/the%20white%20jeep/front%20yoke/IMG00186.jpg

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h271/rusty_walker/the%20white%20jeep/front%20yoke/IMG00187.jpg

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h271/rusty_walker/the%20white%20jeep/front%20yoke/IMG00188.jpg

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h271/rusty_walker/the%20white%20jeep/front%20yoke/IMG00190.jpg

I fit 85 4runner front rotors and calipers in a 15" wheel on mine. Hubs turned down to 6x5.5. 100% bolt on. Ill take more pics when im installing my new reduction box

I can attest to the WEPS kits durability, if someone was going to break it Andy would have by this point. Its a sound kit thru and thru, not to mention Andy is a standup guy and he stands behind his workmanship.

Thanks, that helps a lot since his kit looks like it will be quite a bit less expensive. My concern was process variability between welding ones for me vs. welding the original ones that he is using.

if you look at my build up im doing 8 lug disk home brew on the cheap

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=847496&highlight=

I've read yours before but in this area the land is expensive so cars are stripped fast so I would be going to the parts store for this stuff so not quire as cheap. just not sure how I feel about welding the hubs as yours is pretty much what weps is doing. I only have a 20 ton hf press too but obviously can be fixed without such a tight press fit but thst relies more on the weld to hold this thing together.

i used a 30 ton and it took all she had to get them on

You might try heating the hub and chilling the shaft.

Also, I think I read on here that someone was sandblasting the inside of the splines just enough that you didn't need such a large press.

It also occurs that a local machine shop almost certainly has a press that large and probably will not charge you very much just to press them together. In a pinch I have used the landing gear on a Semi trailer as a press, you can push pretty hard with just one end of a loaded 95,000 Lbs trailer:D.

I bought the Weps hubs and I have been pretty satisfied so far. As soon as I get my master cylinder issues sorted I will get to go play again.:D

A lot of times I run a 'flapper wheel' (abrasive) down thru the hub splines to 'open up' the bore a bit.
I see no advantage to how the germans seem to need such a tight press fit on these, but that is just my opinion.
I ran a box with the big bolt OUT around the badlands for a day hoping it would loosen up for easier removal.

No difference:shaking:

I have not had 1 complaint from people using the welded on flanges, YMMV.

i ment the press fit of the flange of the hub on to the hub took 30 tons

Yes, that is what Weps is saying (I'm pretty sure anyhow).

He removes material from the inside part of the hub splines on the flange part so they do not fit so tight.

makes more sense now. seemed like an awfully tight fit to press the 8 lug flange over the machined hub.

This is what Ive been working on, still have to fab up the brackets. I was hoping to come up with a disc brake conversion that would not add width and that I could offer as a kit at a reasonable price. I got a killer deal on these 16” rotors that I had turned and its still pricey. I would have to have some castings made to get the price down. Its hard to find a rotor caliper combo that clears the box and rims…and after all of this, if I had to do it again I would have planned on added width and gone eight lug. WEPS kit or the like.

Looks damn nice!
especially good if you already have 'mog pattern wheels.

I only went with the 8 lug 'cuz all my buddies are on 8 lug/60 stuff and having trail spares between the group was important at the time.

Those are sexy. :smokin:

How ridiculously expensive were those? Whatever they cost it might be worth it; not to have to pull the hubs apart would be worth quite a bit.:D

Also... I imagine that rotor is about what? 14"-16"? very cool!:homer:

I ran a box with the big bolt OUT around the badlands for a day hoping it would loosen up for easier removal.

No difference:shaking:



HAHA!!, thats funny.........

Would have been even "funnier" when you were all happy that your wheel fell off.......:p

Those are sexy. :smokin:

How ridiculously expensive were those?

Also... I imagine that rotor is about what? 14"-16"? very cool!:homer:

Thanks. The rotors were made from 1-1/4” steel plate. They’re 16” diameter,17/32” thick at the caliper. I think the smallest I figured the rotor could have been was ~15+” and had to be ~1/2” to allow enough room to clear the portal box and rim. I had a heck of a time sourcing out a caliper that would fit those dimensions, but finally came across one for industrial applications that could support up to a 16” diameter rotor so I figured what the heck! All said and done, I got a buddy deal and was charged pretty much just machine time and it came out to $300 ea. I would still like to offer these if it all works out like I hope; for those of us that are somewhat stuck with mog pattern wheels. Just need to look further into casting options and price to see if it would be feasible.

Whatever they cost it might be worth it; not to have to pull the hubs apart would be worth quite a bit.:D

Funny you should mention that…since that was my original thought process. But everything snowballed as I got to pokin’ around my axle takin’ measurements and really focusing in. I noticed my driver side CV was rubbing the upper kingpin cup because the lower kingpin had gotten loose and allowed the knuckle to drop. And I had 2 MSI portal boxes that still needed to be installed on the front. And the positive camber has really been bothering me lately so I wanted get rid of that. After adding all these things up, I realized it was time to tear it down!

couldn't you start with a chevy 16" 6 lug rotor and just drill the mog bolt pattern and live with an extra inch or so on each side but way cheaper than making a whole rotor. plus you wouldn't have to go with such a specialty caliper?

couldn't you start with a chevy 16" 6 lug rotor and just drill the mog bolt pattern and live with an extra inch or so on each side but way cheaper than making a whole rotor. plus you wouldn't have to go with such a specialty caliper?

I don't know exactly which chevy rotor your talking about, but in all my research and the rotors Ive come across I didnt go that route because of one or more of these following reasons:
1. The rotor offset adds width and requires machining of hub; didnt want to do that.
2. The rotor was +1" thick and would not clear the portal box (see #3).
3. The calipers for those rotors are large and wouldnt clear my wheels (unless of course I changed the hub and had a larger offset)
4. The wheel flange on the unimog is bigger than any hat Ive found on OEM rotors.
5. I have read that no lug pattern really matches up or works well when drilling to match the 'mog pattern.

...And this industrial caliper I found is not that expensive or specialized, just industrial. Finding it was the hardest part. I can get replacement pads easily. Its aluminum and lightweight. As long as it works, I see no down side to it. And its damn purdy :D