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View Full Version : Scout vs. Cherokee question...


Vandy
09-03-2001, 09:09 PM
I'm looking at getting another project besides my YJ and I was looking at FS Cherokee/Wagoneers...then I saw some Scouts and thought those were pretty cool. Knowing I'll get a little bias here, what you the Scout crowd say the strengths of a Scout II are over a Cherokee/Wagoneer?

Thanks

Hayraker
09-03-2001, 09:54 PM
uh, wagoneers suck and scouts don't, <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0"> ,just kidding, .. scouts can get around better in tight trails because they are not full size, you can take the top off of them, and they were not made by jeep. This is why I think that they are better.
just my $.02

jdjanda
09-03-2001, 10:38 PM
How bout something a little more than that, assuming we are talking Scout II....


The Good
A decent Scout can be had for around $2500. Scouts used many engine options:
IH 4 Cylinder 152, 196
IH 8 Cylinder 304, 345 (392 is a popular swap)
AMC 258 6 cylinder
Nissian 6 cylinder diesel (Turbo is 80')

The IH motors are industrial grade motors, and 300k motors are not uncommon. The IH motors are torque monsters, and work well at low RPMs. The bad, they are expensive to rebuild, around $1,500.00 You can build them for performance, as Tom M he races with an IH.

Scout II's were produced from 71-80. The 80 models are the most sought after, due to a Dana 300 t-case (not related to the Jeep 300)all other years used the Dana 20, you may see the rare IH single speed T-case. If there is a knob on the dash for 4 wheel you have a single speed

The Scout drive trains are stout, all Scout II's have a rear Dana 44, most likely with a Trash-loc, all 71-73 Scout's had a drum Dana 30 front end. Early 74's used a disk Dana 44, with later 74's using a disk 30 (production problem)After 75 all Scouts used a disk Dana 44

The Scout's have excellent steering gear and have an incredible turning radius.

Yes the tops are removable, but see below

If you are going to wheel a Scout consider a SOA, search the archives

Scout's used the T18 (4:1 first) up to 75, then switched to close T19 (4:1 first), or an optional T19 wide (6.32:1 first) The Chrysler 727 was the automatic used behind almost all Scout II's. (I have one in my 75) the 727 is a strong slush box, and more than capable of handling off road use.

The BAD

Almost all Scout's have rust problems, especially areas with snow. If you are going to remove the top, inspect the body mounts for rust. Replacement sheet metal is available.

For more info check out
Binder (http://www.binderbulletin.org)
Read the FAQ's and search the archives

Scouts are well respected as solid 4x4's

Joe <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0">

scouter77
09-04-2001, 02:18 AM
I was on a trail yesterday w/ a big blazer, y2k s10, My scout, a J20, and a waggy. The ONLY ones in our group w/ problems were the jeeps... The AMC v8's overheat like a bitch! The J20 had a 401 and overheated bad enough to vaporlock... The waggy did ok but it got hot when going up steep inclines and leaned the engine out. EFI would have helped on both of those rigs. IMO I will never get an AMC v8.. JMO but in Az its essential to stay cool to survive. The blazer did well and the s10 is BRAND NEW... So they dont count. The guy who owned the s10 quoted "I will be pissed if that damn scout is the only one who makes it out of here alive!" My scout is all stock but well beat up they never expected its performance from a 20 year old punk kid. <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0"> Needless to say I was proud.

Vandy
09-04-2001, 06:47 AM
Hmmm, sounds better and better....

I drove past two Scout II's sitting in this field the other day....weeds growing up past them...kinda sad... However, one had a what looked like an old Warn 8274 on the front. At least that's what it looked like from the road passing by. Maybe I'll go see if he wants to let one go cheep...

jdjanda
09-04-2001, 07:11 AM
Buy 'Em both, use one for parts <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">


The AMC motors are decent, nothing compared to the IH motors for constant idle operation. The 401's run hot, even worse if bored. My old Jeep (Yes I owned a Jeep prior to my Scout days) with a 304 bored .30 over ran just fine. The 304 in my jeep also ran 9:1 compression no problems. You just need to keep the cooling system maintained.

Joe <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0">

Vandy
09-04-2001, 11:39 AM
How are parts for IH's...both $ and availability? How are they for reliability?

Hayraker
09-04-2001, 03:07 PM
engine and drive train parts are pretty available, haven't had to wait longer than a day with Napa on anything so far, (camshaft,radiator hose, etc.), but engine parts are alot more expensive than the old chevy's that I am used to working on, maybe they are selling this stuff by the pound.

tsm1mt
09-04-2001, 04:08 PM
Originally posted by Hayraker:
<STRONG>engine and drive train parts are pretty available, haven't had to wait longer than a day with Napa on anything so far, (camshaft,radiator hose, etc.), but engine parts are alot more expensive than the old chevy's that I am used to working on, maybe they are selling this stuff by the pound.</STRONG>

Try buying the high-po Chevy parts.. like a forged crank, forged rods, etc.. and suddenly the IH stock parts don't seem so expensive any more. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Hayraker
09-04-2001, 04:11 PM
Originally posted by tsm1mt:
<STRONG>Try buying the high-po Chevy parts.. like a forged crank, forged rods, etc.. and suddenly the IH stock parts don't seem so expensive any more. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

I have never had anything very high-po, my stuff is all low-po
<IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0">

TwitchyVirus
04-08-2007, 09:12 AM
As the owner of both a Scout and a Wagonner, i would vote Scout. My Scout would climb straight up the side of a building if it had the chance. Ive only bottomed it out once. Definatly a go-getter. The wagoneer is a bit longer so its harder to get it into and out of tight place. It bottoms out comin over some of our climbin hills.



Almost all Scout's have rust problems, especially areas with snow. If you are going to remove the top, inspect the body mounts for rust. Replacement sheet metal is available.

Joe <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0">
Unless youve put some money into a scout, its gonna have rust, by the ton.
On mine the passenger floorboard has rusted through, and the bed is gettin bad.
I have also heard that if you remove the top of any scout that it is next to impossible to reseal the top to the body.

Old Scout
04-08-2007, 11:11 AM
Hella old thread! :flipoff2:

guidolyons
04-08-2007, 01:36 PM
:laughing: :laughing: Well, he did dig up a 6 year old thread, so at least he figured out how to search. Now, if he can just get the reading comprehension and those funny numbers at the top left of the thread figured out. :flipoff2:

Blind Driver
04-08-2007, 03:55 PM
What page did he find it on? Two Hundred sumthin'?

:laughing:

Urban Wheeler
04-08-2007, 04:35 PM
Holy mother of god this is an old thread.

Red_SC
04-08-2007, 06:57 PM
I have also heard that if you remove the top of any scout that it is next to impossible to reseal the top to the body.

Never had a problem getting mine to seal back on. Mine has some rust but the body mounts are good. I imagine it would be difficult if you had bad body mounts, though.

Snoopy
04-09-2007, 09:29 AM
Hella old thread! :flipoff2:
Give the guy credit, if he searched back 6 years, at least he searched.

nooblet
04-09-2007, 06:49 PM
All that searching and with no red star...simply impressive :flipoff2:

Chris

472Scout
04-10-2007, 04:19 AM
Fawk. Don't you love when you read half way through a thread before you realize it's as old as....Fawk. :rolleyes:

KaiserJeepMan
04-10-2007, 02:52 PM
Fawk. Don't you love when you read half way through a thread before you realize it's as old as....Fawk. :rolleyes:

Yep, I was about to reply (in favor of the Cherokee:flipoff2: ) when I noticed the date.

It's even better when someone brings a thread back from the dead just to say "That's awsome!" or "Dana 44's suck balls".