I have just purchased a 1984 1/2 ton 4x4 dodge that has the ever so weak dana 44 up front. I just bought a 1978 D300 one ton parts truck that has a Dana 60 up front and a dana 70 in the back. the '78 is not a dulie. I got the 60 out of the truck today and need some help figuring out how to do the steering in my 1/2 ton to make it the most efficent on the trail and on the road. the front and rears are 4.88 gears and my tires are 36/12.50/16.5 rtII's. Is a crossover steering setup my best route and what exactly is that? what steering box do i need if mine wont work? The D300 was fulltime 4wd. how do i put lock in's on the front end, it has 8 bolts holding the cover on the end of the hub. Also, the tie rod connecting the right side to the left side has a bend in it infront of the diff cover, is that factory or is it just bent?My lift is a set of 6 inch skyjacker springs for the front. This steering sure has me scratching my head, all of your help is much needed. Thank you

High steer crossover is best. You can use your existing box, but you will need to remove the plate and put it in the 2wd position and brace it so it does not tear off the frame. You will need a new pitman arm, high steer arm for the passenger side of the 60 and drag link. I used ORD stuff, but there is a ton of parts and kits out there. My tie rod was straight.

That's not a D300, it's a W300. D is 2WD, W is 4WD.

On the locking hubs bit, unbolt the stock drive flanges and give them to me, then go buy a set of Milemarker Selectro external hubs. They will bolt on with no problems and work fine. Plan on a Borgeson or similar homemade steering shaft to the box to get rid of the worthless stock steering joint. It sounds to me like your stock tie rod is bent. It's pretty common considering how low it is. Rustrtal pretty much covered the crossover bit.

Oh, and if that D44 out of the '84 does not have the CAD setup, it's not all that weak. Nothing compared to the D60 but the non-CAD D44 is worth holding onto to sell as they were only used from '80-late '84.

Nice score by the way on a Dana 60 front/W300 parts truck. Never with my luck do I come across them. The old Selectro 30 spline lockouts will bolt in place of the fulltime flanges fwiw.

whats wrong with having the 44 up front? thats what i have up front too and i was going to change my gears to 4.56 so i can go 35-36 tires...

whats wrong with having the 44 up front? thats what i have up front too and i was going to change my gears to 4.56 so i can go 35-36 tires...

you must be new here:flipoff2:

sure am

With the small ring gear of a D44, the pinion on 4.56 gears will be rather small and weak, especially when compared to a D60 4.56 ring and pinion. Not to mention the D44 has ball joints, small axle shafts and axle joints and usually either has CAD or crappy unit hubs. A D60 is superior in every way except possibly size and weight if those are a concern, which usually they are not that big of a deal.

that clears it up for me then... probably about the same amount of work as swapping the gears too.

Less work probably. Unless you know how to set up gears in a Dana axle, I doubt you really know what you are in for.

Anyone tell me what RPMs to expect at around 60MPH if i went 4.56 and run 35-36 ???

does it bring it back to around stock or will it be way off...right now i can cruise at 65 at about 1700 RPMs with 3.55 and 265/75/15

http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

To stay stock speed/RPM with 35" tires you would need 4.11 gears.

This is another calculator that's very simple to use.
http://www.rocky-road.com/calculator.html

Thanks , that one is easier to use.

Thanks , that one is easier to use.

While easier to use, the one Elwenil posted is SO much better, especially when you start messing with more than just changing tire size and worrying about more than RPMs.

Duane

Agreed. It's also great when dealing with custom vehicles with a transmission from this, transfer case from that, aftermarket gears, etc. It's best feature in my opinion is that you can put two setups side by side to compare them. I often use it to put my stock setup on the left and then make changes to the right side and compare to see how it effects speed, RPMs, crawl ratio, etc.

I have only had 2 days off of work since the day i posted my question. all of the help is much appreciated. most of all of my parts are on the bench or on the floor around the truck ready to go on. I took this sat, sun, monday off to put this thing together. I bought a kingpin master rebuild kit, spicer 806X joints, new rotors, calipers, pads, wheel bearings, spindle bearings, rotor seals,and spindle seals for the dana 60. For the 70 rear it was fewer parts to order, thank god. I bought new drums, shoes, adjusters, wheel cylinders, and a spring & fastener kit, and a detroit electra locker. All the bearings seem to be in great shape. I am using a paint that is new to me that a friend gave to me, it is called por15. he says it is the real deal. if the guy that said he wants the drive flanges realy wants them, let me know. what is a cad 44 by the way. thanks for the help. One last question, my 60 & 70 have 5/8 inch studs. can I drill my Eaton monster wheels out the tiny bit i need, or what do I do?

if the guy that said he wants the drive flanges realy wants them, let me know. what is a cad 44 by the way.

I believe it was Elwenil that wanted the flanges, if not Ill take them if the price is right.

A cad axles stands for Central Axle Disconnect. The long side axleshaft is actually two pieces, and there is a vacuum actuated collar that slides over splines that connect the two halves together. This came about for people too lazy to get out and turn a hub when they need 4wd, now all they have to do is pull the tcase lever and keep getting it.

Duane

I don't really need the flanges but I figured I might pick up a set to swap on if I broke a Selectro at some point. CLR, if you have a use for them, go for it. I'm sure I won't have any problems picking up a set if I need some down the road. Eventually I plan on swapping to the later style internal hub when I go to 35 spline. When and if, lol.

I don't really need the flanges but I figured I might pick up a set to swap on if I broke a Selectro at some point. CLR, if you have a use for them, go for it. I'm sure I won't have any problems picking up a set if I need some down the road. Eventually I plan on swapping to the later style internal hub when I go to 35 spline. When and if, lol.

My old man needs a set for some spares. Hes runnin superwinch hubs now and I think its just a matter of time before they break. Stone, shoot me a price and shipping quote to 27527 if you dont mind.

Duane

I will check on shiping saturday. as for a price, what sounds fair to you? I have 8 bolts that hold on the cover on the end of my axel, how do i put hubs on this beast, and what do they cost. This project sure has me excited. I have had several trucks on 44's, but nothing as reliable and street worthy as this. this thing started out as a quick build up of a clean Tenn. truck with a great frame for $900, now it has turned into a $5000 pile of new parts wating to be put together. the planed assembly day is supose to be this saturday and sunday, thanks for answering all my questions. My d44 is a non cad by the way

I will check on shiping saturday. as for a price, what sounds fair to you? I have 8 bolts that hold on the cover on the end of my axel, how do i put hubs on this beast, and what do they cost. This project sure has me excited. I have had several trucks on 44's, but nothing as reliable and street worthy as this. this thing started out as a quick build up of a clean Tenn. truck with a great frame for $900, now it has turned into a $5000 pile of new parts wating to be put together. the planed assembly day is supose to be this saturday and sunday, thanks for answering all my questions. My d44 is a non cad by the way

the hubs just bolt in place of the drive flanges. milemarker/selectro still makes them, and superwinch and warn both used to make hubs for it, and i'm pretty sure the dana 70 fronts used a similar hub.

thanks, I am having trouble finding the selectros in stock anywhere, but will keep trying, have any of you guys heard of Recon winches by the way. I think one is going to find it's way into the front bumper of my dodge, a 16,500lb if they are not junk

thanks, I am having trouble finding the selectros in stock anywhere, but will keep trying, have any of you guys heard of Recon winches by the way. I think one is going to find it's way into the front bumper of my dodge, a 16,500lb if they are not junk

From what I can tell theyre the same chinese winches everyone sells under about 15 different names. Better than nothing, but not a warn/superwinch/ramsey.

Duane

project completed, everything seems to have worked out well. thanks for all the help! The one thing I am not happy about is the 1310 joints in the driveshafts, where do I find the 1350 yokes for on the transfer case? Also, I have a little slop in the steering box, is there some adjustment to tighten any of that up?

vvvvvv has a bunch of brandnew nos selectro/b&m externals and wants them gone im sure you could get them for pretty cheap.

who' s vvvvvv? I did a member search and they didn't come up?... I just broke one of my oringal 1989 selectro hubs today. all my parts trucks are 92& 93 etc..so they have internal hubs argh.. if you know a contact for your friend vvvvvv that would be great.
thanks,
Deo

I'll gladly trade you my old Selectros for a set of the internal wheel hubs and lock outs, lol.

who' s vvvvvv? I did a member search and they didn't come up?... I just broke one of my oringal 1989 selectro hubs today. all my parts trucks are 92& 93 etc..so they have internal hubs argh.. if you know a contact for your friend vvvvvv that would be great.
thanks,
Deo

He was pointing to his sig.......S&H 4x4 (916)-927-3919