Here is what I am trying to do... I putting 35x12.50x15's on my 2001 TJ. It currently has 33's on it, 3.73 gears, and open diffs front and rear. I will be re-gearing the Dana 44 rear to 4.88's and adding an air locker soon.

The problem is that I do not want to throw a bunch of money into re-gearing and locking the front end since I am relatively sure that the Dana 30 will be prone to breakage.

I am interested in putting a G2 Dana 44 Axle up front instead. I have not heard too much about these axles, except what little is mentioned in the "Hypothetical TJ Build" thread in this forum. This axle puts me slightly over my budget for this project, but I do not want to continue throwing money into an axle that cannot be trusted on the trail.

I would like to get some input on how everyone feels about these axles. There does not seem to be much info available about them. I would like to know if my front driveshaft will have to be modified for either length or front u-joint specs to accommodate the front dana 44.

Thanks in advance!!!

Do you have the 4cyl or 6cyl? This matters.

Here's what I'm doing and I'm running 35s as well.

8.8 from ECGS, they're a vendor here. $850 for a 8.8 with TJ brackets, 4.10s, and a welded diff with ebrake cables, ready to go in. You can adjust options from there, but that's a damn good price for a shipped axle ready to go in. You don't need this, but it is an option for you if you wanted to upgrade since they do 4.88 installs too and the expense after you sell your 44 wouldn't be too high. Just another option for ya.

For the front, find a HP30 out of a XJ. You can use the ones with the CAD system since the housings are stronger or you can find one without it. 4.10s aren't too rare to find in these axles, I've seen 3 or 4 on craigslist lately. Swap your axle shafts over and a Seals It seal into the CAD housing if you get one and go. You can add an Aussie locker for $250 and be locked and loaded for barely over a grand. Carry some spare 30 shafts just in case you really get on it.

Or you can buy a G2 front and spend a ton of cash you could put towards buying a better welder and other tools plus the training and certification to properly weld. You can do so much more than your wallet allows if you spend it in the right places and get the skills you need to fab your own shit.

Just out of curiosity...how many D30 parts have you exploded?

Ahh, I beat on a TJ 30 for ten years with 35's, ARB and 4.56's. Spend the cash on the G2 if it's better than a Rubi44, if not do your 30.

The G2 is a Rubi front housing, so if you're staying with 35's you're better off with a HP30 as already said. Hell of a lot cheaper.

Yep. Just run the thurDe. Look for some spare shafts if you are worried. Keep them in your rig with new joints installed. Learn how to change them. It's really easy.

Do you have the 4cyl or 6cyl? This matters.

Here's what I'm doing and I'm running 35s as well.

8.8 from ECGS, they're a vendor here. $850 for a 8.8 with TJ brackets, 4.10s, and a welded diff with ebrake cables, ready to go in. You can adjust options from there, but that's a damn good price for a shipped axle ready to go in. You don't need this, but it is an option for you if you wanted to upgrade since they do 4.88 installs too and the expense after you sell your 44 wouldn't be too high. Just another option for ya.

For the front, find a HP30 out of a XJ. You can use the ones with the CAD system since the housings are stronger or you can find one without it. 4.10s aren't too rare to find in these axles, I've seen 3 or 4 on craigslist lately. Swap your axle shafts over and a Seals It seal into the CAD housing if you get one and go. You can add an Aussie locker for $250 and be locked and loaded for barely over a grand. Carry some spare 30 shafts just in case you really get on it.

Or you can buy a G2 front and spend a ton of cash you could put towards buying a better welder and other tools plus the training and certification to properly weld. You can do so much more than your wallet allows if you spend it in the right places and get the skills you need to fab your own shit.

Just out of curiosity...how many D30 parts have you exploded?


That's an incredible deal, I bet the OP could sell his D44 for better than half of that, save the regear money, and come out way ahead of the game.

The HP30 is a good idea, and (IMO) makes more sense than a 44. Hell, the HP is at least as strong as a Rubi 44. ...HOWEVER, I'm an advocate for skipping both of these axles if you EVER plan to go above a 35.

Having said all that, I have a locked CJ7 D30 (LP) holding 35's easy with chromo's, but that's $500 without even considering the gears and I would have swapped it out if I could have.

I guess what I'm trying to say is this- skip the G2. You can find a comparable axle for less money, or run what you got until you break. You very well may not break it for a few years if you keep it open, even on stock shafts.

Lock and gear the 30. Then spent the money left over on cold cocktails.:D

I'd find a HP30 from a xj and get some chromos 4 it before i bought the g2 44. Thats just my opinion though.

Do you have the 4cyl or 6cyl? This matters.

Here's what I'm doing and I'm running 35s as well.

8.8 from ECGS, they're a vendor here. $850 for a 8.8 with TJ brackets, 4.10s, and a welded diff with ebrake cables, ready to go in. You can adjust options from there, but that's a damn good price for a shipped axle ready to go in. You don't need this, but it is an option for you if you wanted to upgrade since they do 4.88 installs too and the expense after you sell your 44 wouldn't be too high. Just another option for ya.

For the front, find a HP30 out of a XJ. You can use the ones with the CAD system since the housings are stronger or you can find one without it. 4.10s aren't too rare to find in these axles, I've seen 3 or 4 on craigslist lately. Swap your axle shafts over and a Seals It seal into the CAD housing if you get one and go. You can add an Aussie locker for $250 and be locked and loaded for barely over a grand. Carry some spare 30 shafts just in case you really get on it.

Or you can buy a G2 front and spend a ton of cash you could put towards buying a better welder and other tools plus the training and certification to properly weld. You can do so much more than your wallet allows if you spend it in the right places and get the skills you need to fab your own shit.

Just out of curiosity...how many D30 parts have you exploded?

I have the 4.0 6cyl and a 5 spd manual transmission. Thanks for the heads up for the ECGS 8.8 and the HP 30. I will check those out before I make a decision. Currently, I have not destroyed any D30 or D44 parts on my jeep, but I am running open differentials in both ends. I did not expect to be that lucky with the D30 once I installed a locker....

The G2 is a Rubi front housing, so if you're staying with 35's you're better off with a HP30 as already said. Hell of a lot cheaper.

I spoke to the folks at G2 today, and they told me the same thing. That fact really does not inspire my confidence. I am not planning to go bigger than 35's, and will definitely look into the HP30 before I buy a G2 axle now. BTW... Is the HP30 the same width as a stock TJ Dana 30???

Thanks again for all the input!!!

The HP30s from XJs are the same exact axle as the regular TJ 30s....except it's high pinion so the gear sets are different and this is what makes it a stronger axle. Your regular TJ knuckles, shafts, brakes, diff, and HD diff cover will all swap over. I swapped out my D30 for the new HP30 in about 4 hours.

Very easy swap, very easy to find one for cheap and with 4.10s. I just got my ECGS 8.8 and it's badass. Big brackets, disc brakes, brakes lines already routed for me, e-brake cables are ready to go too. Trust me, it's worth it.

Oh, and your 30 will be fine with a locker...but not as fine as a HP30 :D

the only downside to a hp 30 is the unibearings that don't hold up with wider wheels. i would recommend 15x8 wheels to keep from wearing out unibearings. dana 30 is a good axle.

I have the 4.0 6cyl and a 5 spd manual transmission. Thanks for the heads up for the ECGS 8.8 and the HP 30. I will check those out before I make a decision.

can I have your 44 when you buy the 8.8?

oh, skip the LP44 front.

That's the problem with the jump from stock Dana 30s to Dana 44...it ain't easy and sometimes it's just as much work or cost to just go to a 60.

can I have your 44 when you buy the 8.8?

oh, skip the LP44 front.

I am probably going to keep the 44... I am in the process of getting the HP30 though... Going to either get one from an individual or a local junkyard on Monday.

Do you know what you're looking for? The newer XJ units have a great set of shafts and u joints in them...I think the year is 99 and they have 760 joints but I can't remember for sure.

If you're going to be hard on the housing, get the older XJ units with all cast and steel tube structure. Nothing but beefy for when you inevitably hit a rock on the housing :smokin:

Do you know what you're looking for? The newer XJ units have a great set of shafts and u joints in them...I think the year is 99 and they have 760 joints but I can't remember for sure.

If you're going to be hard on the housing, get the older XJ units with all cast and steel tube structure. Nothing but beefy for when you inevitably hit a rock on the housing :smokin:

I am looking for '96 and up to avoid having the central axle disconnect assembly. The unit I am probably going to get is out of a 2000 XJ from a local pick and pull... Unfortunately, the good axles I want from the junkyard are missing one or the other of their axleshafts. Since I can reuse my TJ shafts until I break one and/or buy chromoly shafts, I will pick the best looking carrier and snag the extra shaft from a different vehicle...

There ya go man, good plan. Happy hunting.