Heads are done...

[Mechanos]

I picked up my 345 heads from the machine shop yesterday. Damn those things cleaned up nice. New OEM seals, valve job and surfaced all three sides. I didn't really notice with all the gunk on there when I pulled them off, but now that they are clean, I can see where some cooter before me tried to close off the air injection ports by goober welding the fitting tubes closed. The machine shop guy suggested that I put a dab of high temp silicone on the inside of the port to make sure they are sealed off. Is there really such a product that would take that kind of heat?

I bought a Fel-Pro exhaust manifold gasket a while back and it was the steel shim type. So does that mean that the Fel-Pro head gaskets and intake gaskets are also the steel shim type? Getting ready to order a gasket set and I'd like to know what I'm getting. Is there any kind of sealant suggested for use with the steel shim gaskets or just put them on there dry?

[Scout Dude]

You should have had them machine off about 1.500" to save some weight:flipoff2:

[tsm1mt]

Originally posted by TORC
closed. The machine shop guy suggested that I put a dab of high temp silicone on the inside of the port to make sure they are sealed off. Is there really such a product that would take that kind of heat?


Even better - buy the right pipe plug fittings and thread 'em in. :D


I bought a Fel-Pro exhaust manifold gasket a while back and it was the steel shim type. So does that mean that the Fel-Pro head gaskets and intake gaskets are also the steel shim type? Getting ready to order a gasket set and I'd like to know what I'm getting. Is there any kind of sealant suggested for use with the steel shim gaskets or just put them on there dry?

Felpro head gaskets are composite, as are the Clevite. One is .038 compressed, the other .042, and I can't remember which is which. I just use a round .040 estimate.

I don't think the steel shim headgaskets are available.

If they are, you have to have the heads and block deck surfaced before you can use the steel shim head gaskets.

I put my steel exhaust and intake gaskets on dry, but maybe I don't do it right. :D I've seen RTV used around the coolant passages on the head gaskets.

I also put the composite head gaskets on dry.

[Old Scout]

Use the soft non sheet metal gaskets from Derroit

Detroit gaskets

345 Exhaust 18053

intake 23056 (gas)

intake 23548 (LPG)

There is 1800F epoxie made for head repair. I used it to fill the air tube holes in my heads

[Mechanos]

Originally posted by tsm1mt
Even better - buy the right pipe plug fittings and thread 'em in. :D

Can't do that.... the goober weld laps over and is also fused to the head casting. Some people just really need their head pulled out of their ass and their hands cut off.....:mad:

Originally posted by Old Scout
Use the soft non sheet metal gaskets from Derroit

Detroit gaskets

345 Exhaust 18053

intake 23056 (gas)

intake 23548 (LPG)

There is 1800F epoxie made for head repair. I used it to fill the air tube holes in my heads

I was going to order a kit from Northern Auto Parts... they offer Victor gaskets or Fel-Pro's as an upgrade. I've heard the Detroit gaskets are good ones, but for sake of convenience, I will probably just go with the Fel-Pros. I don't think I should have too much of a problem getting the shim type exhaust and intake gaskets to seal since I'm having all mating surfaces surfaced. It's only going to cost me $10 to get the exhaust manifolds cleaned and surfaced and I'm going to have the intake tanked and surfaced as well. I still can't get over the heads.... they look like they were replaced with brand spankin' new ones. :flipoff2:

[T1H5_TA3]

on steal shim type gaskets, go get a can of the permatex ultra copper spray, coat them liberaly, wait till tacky, then bolt up!

i actualy spray that stuff on just about every gasket i use.. and i dont get leaks. that stuff is better than sliced bread.. if ya know what i mean....:flipoff2:

[tsm1mt]

Originally posted by TORC

I was going to order a kit from Northern Auto Parts... they offer Victor gaskets or Fel-Pro's as an upgrade. I've heard the Detroit gaskets are good ones, but for sake of convenience, I will probably just go with the Fel-Pros. I don't think I

I've used the Victor gaskets and never bothered to "upgrade" to Felpro, since that means I get the POS neoprene valve cover and oil pan gaskets that have never worked for me.

No problems with Cork.

[Mechanos]

Originally posted by tsm1mt


I've used the Victor gaskets and never bothered to "upgrade" to Felpro, since that means I get the POS neoprene valve cover and oil pan gaskets that have never worked for me.

No problems with Cork.
Interesting... I've never had anything but more leakage with cork... always had great success with neoprene. Go figger.... it must the be the climate.....:flipoff2:

[tsm1mt]

Originally posted by TORC

Interesting... I've never had anything but more leakage with cork... always had great success with neoprene. Go figger.... it must the be the climate.....:flipoff2:

I've heard from folks that have had 'em work well. And they only work AFTER you spend a lot of time making sure your valve covers are perfectly flat.

THEN they work.

But for most of us that aren't that constipated, the cork works better.

So.. have you used neoprene *on a Scout*, or on "Other Brands"?

Neoprene = leaking SOB
Neoprene + Right Stuff = leaking SOB.

Cork + Right Stuff = no leaks.

[Mechanos]

Haven't used them on an International yet, but on all the other stuff I've used them on, they have worked very well.

[RustoleumWhite]

Originally posted by tsm1mt

Neoprene = leaking SOB
Neoprene + Right Stuff = leaking SOB.

Cork + Right Stuff = no leaks.



tom, what the hell are you even usuing gaskets for?!?!?!


Right Stuff + Clean surfaces = NO leaks.....


laquer thinner (or what ever thinner you have handy) the surface before you apply.... works great for me!!! :beer:

[T1H5_TA3]

lol.. around here the only time any one even mentions cork is in referance to boots.. lol.. i guess im just a readneck..

[scoutver5.7]

Originally posted by TORC
some cooter before me tried to close off the air injection ports by goober welding the fitting tubes closed

Ya are gonna hog them big ass restrictions outta the ports, ain't ya?

[tsm1mt]

Originally posted by RustoleumWhite




tom, what the hell are you even usuing gaskets for?!?!?!


Right Stuff + Clean surfaces = NO leaks.....


Because I put cork on the head, then Right Stuff between the cork and the valve cover.

*THEN* the damn things come off when you want 'em to without scraping goo onto the head and into the valley or pan!

[Hooper]

Originally posted by RustoleumWhite




tom, what the hell are you even usuing gaskets for?!?!?!


Right Stuff + Clean surfaces = NO leaks.....


laquer thinner (or what ever thinner you have handy) the surface before you apply.... works great for me!!! :beer:

Don't listen to Rusty. I glued my oil pan on with RS and it took me 2 hours to pry back off. Needless to say, it was not exactly straight by the time I was done!! This time, I used cork and RS (RS between cork and pan) Had to keep torquing down the pan bolts, but I have finally reached a point where it looks like it is only leaking a tiny bit, and I think that is from the filter bracket, not the pan.

RS your rocker covers to the engine, and you are gonna be hollering something fierce when you have to pull them...

course, if you build it right, you won't have to pull them till it is engine rebuild time and the whole thing is on the stand...

[Mechanos]

I don't know what this "Right Stuff" is.... never heard of it before. As long as I continue to have the results I've had with Permatex's Ultra Black RTV, I don't intend to find out.:flipoff2: