So, I've worn the search button out. Also, my kids ride with me, so pity this fool. :jester:

I need to keep from getting too tall for the steep (rock and mud) hills we run. I figure 35 inch tires are about right, but don't think the stock axles in my '82 CJ-7 (even w/Warn full floater) are up to it.

Picked up a 60.5" wide front D44 from a '77 Waggy for my '82 CJ-7. Planning hi-steer to solve some SOA issues I've got.

Rear axle is driving me nuts. I want something to match the full width waggy front. Here's what I've found:

1) D44 from an 89 Wagoneer. Lug pattern matches front, best width and ground clearance, but axle is no stronger than what I've got now.

2) FF D60 from an '69 F-250, 63" wide, 30 spline. Front will be 62.5" wide after I swap GM 3/4 ton hub/rotor/spindles...

3) TWO (2) FF D70 from '70 and '80 F-350 C-C trucks probably used to haul grain, meaning low miles and heavy use once a year. They are 64" WMS-WMS so I'm gonna have to run a different offset wheel in the rear, yuch.

After reading all the "60's baybee" posts I was all psyched. But 38's are gonna be too tall and these big Dana's are gonna drag ass with 'lil 35" o-rings. Gawd times have changed, I remember when L78's were killer...

Which is the best rear axle for 35-36" tires?

The Wagoneer Dana 44 will last just fine unless you're a big-block-with-nitrous-go-pedal freak, in that case you should leave your kids at home. An Early Bronco 9" would do as well, but the pinion is quite low so you need some decent rear driveline length.

Either one piece axles or a Warn ff kit with drive flanges will be plenty strong for 35-36" tires in the AMC20. I would re-gear to 4.56 or 4.88's too and weld the tubes to the pumkin to prevent them from spinning. The d44 in front is a good choice and you can get 5 on 5.5 wheel patterns easily. Oh yeh, good use of the search and welcome Newbie :flipoff2: :flipoff2: .

Thanks for the help, and it feels good to post here!

The PO installed a Warn FF kit in the AMC 20. He also tried a lockright but I think had trouble with backlash, so he welded the lockright.

Well, that crappy idea might have worked in Texas, but I blew those welds on the locker on the first serious hill climb.

He also welded the lower half of the tubes to the center section. I don't like this because its in tension and might crack...

Leaving options:

a) Run the AMC 20 and narrow the front D44 4".

b) Run the AMC with 2" wider wheels/tires and the front full width. So in front I'd use 35 x 12.5 and in rear 35 x 14.5, say SSR's...

c) Run front D44 full width with the '89 D44 in the rear.

I'm thinking an OX and 4.88's front and rear regardless...

why does your front and rear have to be the same width? a little narrower rear end helps with the trouble of your rear turning inside your front track and forcing it in the wrong posistion.Which is especialy a problem up here in the super tight trees at any rate a scout 44 might be the ticket for you if you want to be the simular width or like before mentioned a EB 9 inch

Trailhawg

If the tubes were welded correctly they should be fine. You can also find a Waggy d44 rear or a AMC20 which is a HD model and it comes with one piece axles and they would be the correct width. A d44 is also enough for 35-36" tires. Most Jeeps run a wider front then rear anyways.

As far as the welded lockright, of course that is going to break. Put a Detroit in the rear and you will be fine.

Slap a spool in the Waggy 44 rear and forget all about it. Run the Waggy 44 front as is and outboard your springs, or cut down a Chevy 44 4" on the long side and be a little wider in the front. Ox in the front is cool, I like mine, but other here prefer ARB, I say what ever you want, as long as you use it.

consider the Toyota 8" swap. that's the route I'm going when going to 35-36s. It is d44 strength with d35 clearance and the availability of factory 4.56 gears with a selectable locker. It would even have the same 6 lug pattern as your front d44

BrettM
Do you know of any write-up's on the Toy axle swap?

Never mind didn't search

Hey BBD,
Try using the search button :flipoff2:.

you say you have a warn full float kit on the AMC 20? if so i would find a good housing (free) and put that stuff in there. i ran a AMC 20 with 36" swampers and a hot 360. o and i had a "pop" right in the rear too. never broke but was not a floor it type of guy at the time....

Originally posted by DE Jeeper
I would re-gear to 4.56 or 4.88's too .Oh yeh, good use of the search and welcome Newbie :flipoff2: :flipoff2: .

the lowest ring and pinion for an AMC 20 is 4.56, that is why it is not the best option, although one piece shafts or a warn FF would be plenty strong enogh for 36's, 4.56 is not the most desireable ratio

Wow, like drinking from a fire hose!

YJ_Swamper: 4.88's for AMC 20 available from Superior.

ChrisJeep7: So you agree welding the lower tube ruined the axle?
DE Jeeper: The welds look fine, but I thought you were just supposed to weld the other rosette? These tubes are welded half way around, all on the bottom side...

BrettM: Too many options already, so (unless the Toy's a FF) no thanks.

4Bangler: Thanks for earlier help, but no spool. I need tight turning which the welded lockright did not deliver.

GPN family: I want the rear 2-3" narrower than the front, but this was tough to do without cutting down the D60/D70. The opposite is true with my AMC 20 which is about 7" narrower than my new front axle by the time I convert to 5 on 5.5. The Scout rear is the perfect width, but the tubes are not as thick as the Waggy D44.

Okay, so slap any locker of choice into the Waggy 44 rear and hit it, it's all good.

Done.

Thanks for your help!

Originally posted by Kreep

YJ_Swamper: 4.88's for AMC 20 available from Superior.



well give me a bonnet and call me Susie, you learn tons of useless information everyday

You could run a 31 spline Ford 9".

Originally posted by Kreep
Wow, like drinking from a fire hose!

ChrisJeep7: So you agree welding the lower tube ruined the axle?


WTF just run the Fawker and see ifn it snaps....i would get a new housing just for peice of mind if you are worried about it.

One thing I don't know if anyone has mentioned is a Ford 8.8. Its got 31 splines, 1.31" shafts, ratio goes up to 513. It is only 60" wide, which might be a problem.
Scott

just get a chrome diff cover those are good for up to 38s

go with a rear 60, or a waggy 44 would do the trick, but why waste money on small shit go big, and never look back;)

I won't ride the Dana 60 wave like many around here.:rolleyes:

I have one word for you........
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Zamboni:D :flipoff2:
It has been discussed here before.

Originally posted by Kreep

DE Jeeper: The welds look fine, but I thought you were just supposed to weld the other rosette? These tubes are welded half way around, all on the bottom side...


As long as he did not warp the tubes (which I doubt) they will be fine. You can weld all the way around the tube and not hurt anything. Most people do 3-4 stitch welds about 1" long. HTH and good luck with the project.

Originally posted by Ketchup Dog
One thing I don't know if anyone has mentioned is a Ford 8.8. Its got 31 splines, 1.31" shafts, ratio goes up to 513. It is only 60" wide, which might be a problem.
Scott

I believe he is trying to keep the six lug bolt pattern, though the Ford 8.8 is a good swap for someone running a d30 up front.

BrettM: I don't care what lug pattern I end up with, as long as its not 5 on 4.5. But, the lug pattern changes the front axle width; 6 lug = 60.5, 5 lug = 61.5 and 8 lug = 62.5.

Ketchup: The 8.8 sounds fine, but like the Toyota, it doesn't seem any better than the D44.