So I've been on the search for a motorhome recently. Have looked at plenty that look like they belong in a junkyard :mad3: I finally stumbled across one that I like. 78 Chevy, Good paint, good tires, current registration, good interior (Seats have a couple minor tears in them), fridge and everything works, fair price. BUT, the engine is a 350 :( It is however only a 22 footer (I think, definitely not a 24ft so it must be a 22), and has aluminum panels on the outside instead of fiberglass panels. I want to tow my trailer and crawler behind it. What I want to know is, will this thing have enough power to tow my rig and trailer being as it is only a 350? Will it struggle very bad on uphills? Should I stay clear of the 350? Here's a pic of my truck to give you an idea on what I want to tow. 4cyl, 1 tons, 42's, fair amount of tubing:





http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i164/psychosickwitit1039/Dana%2060%20Conversion/Redo3.jpg

Any and all info is GREATLY appreciated!

You are probably gonna be fairly slow on the hills. I'd assume it's got a th400 in it for a tranny and the lack of overdrive will probably shit on your mileage, but whatever. I would say if you like the thing and it's got a good price on it, then pull the trigger. I say this for two reasons that are all based on you driving it and putthing up with being a little slow on hills. So #1, you can be slow for a while and then throw some minimal coin at that 350 to get some more power out of it as we all know how cheap and easy it can be to get some decent numbers out of it....hell even stroke it. Or #2, I'd bet you could get a 454 in that chassis without too much trouble, although I'm not sure since you didn't say whether it was a class C or a class A....C would probably be more difficult, A would allow some more space since many A's came with that in the chassis anyway.

The big things you need to look for are water damage anywhere. Look for stains on the walls, peeling/seperating of any wood veneer (sp), and any bubbling of any other materials. Also, climb up on the roof and check the caulking and seams for any signs of major work, new caulk, or really worn out sealants, this could be a sign that it leaked and there was an attempted fix. Many will tell you that it's not IF your RV will leak, it's WHEN it will leak.

good luck with it, love vintage RV's they have so much character.

I would say if you like the thing and it's got a good price on it, then pull the trigger. I say this for two reasons that are all based on you driving it and putthing up with being a little slow on hills. So #1, you can be slow for a while and then throw some minimal coin at that 350 to get some more power out of it as we all know how cheap and easy it can be to get some decent numbers out of it....hell even stroke it. Or #2, I'd bet you could get a 454 in that chassis without too much trouble, although I'm not sure since you didn't say whether it was a class C or a class A....C would probably be more difficult, A would allow some more space since many A's came with that in the chassis anyway.



These are not really options since we live in California and it would be subject to smog inspections. :(

most of the class "c" were close to the max gvw at there empty weight. I had looked at some and empty you only had 1400# of CCC and maybe 4k # towing. and that was a v-10 24' class c.

my class A diesel pusher (small diesel) only had a 6k pound towing...but it had 3k pound CCC

It is a class C. Luckily smog isn't an issue for me :flipoff2: I wouldn't mind throwing a few bucks at the 350, but at the same time I do not want to polish a turd :( And would have to wait a few months before being able to do anything to it. I used to tow with a Ford Expedition that had a 4.6 V8 (281ci). The 350 is clearly larger but I know it is a lot heavier. I don't mind it being a bit slow, but don't want to be doing 40mph uphill either. Somebody suggested that I go test drive it so that I can get an idea on what kind of power (or lack of) I'm dealing with. Figured I could get the best feedback here first.

For a good price I would think it should get the job done, as for 40mph up hills I guess that depends on the hills you go up, my buddy has a 350 4 speed in a 79' 3/4 ton and there are hills around here he could only go up 40mph just pulling the wieght of your rig and trailer.

I am not a big fan of motorhomes do to the fact that once you get there and set up if you forget somegthing you have to just about pack up just to go to the store to get whatever it is you forgot/need.
Another thing is most of them don't get driven much, and alot of them get neglected on maintenance. When they get older it's hard to tell what's going to give out on you because it only gets driven a few times a year and when it does it gets the guts ran out of it.

I think it all depends on your situation and budget mainly, if it's at a good price, which to me around here a 78' in good shape w/everything working I would say would be $1500 tops, go for it and save up to build the 350 up a little and it should get the job done and repairs should be fairly cheap with 350/400 combo.

As for the RV itself, make sure the fridge works, they are simple to work on but usually expensive to fix, climb up and look at the roof and see if it's been patched or looks like they tried fixing a leak.
Make sure the plumbing works, it's simple to fix but sometimes it's a PITA to get to the leak and you have to remove half the interior to get to it.

It is a class C. Luckily smog isn't an issue for me :flipoff2:

Don't forget that you might want to sell it one day. :homer:

I'd say no-not enough power, but a buddy of mine has a '79 Class C Dodge with the 360 and he pulls a similar rig w/o issue. Actually pulls it pretty good.

I'd check it out good for water damage and probably would want to check the gear ration in the rear axle=most likely 4.10, somthing lower would be better. You may also have to do some extensive bracing to the rear frame to hold that weight.

my uncle tows a 27' enclosed trailer with his mid 80's 350 powered motorhome, its about 28' long and he does ok with it. I know he goes up to reno with it a few times a year and down to LA, flat ground he can do 75 up hill alot less but you can get there without spending bucks on a diesel pusher.
forgot to mention I put in a set of helper bags and the frame had to be reinforced with box tubing

There have been a few threads here about towing with class C motorhomes. Try searching for them, lots of good info. I think you are whistling dixie if you want to pull big grades at much more than 40 with a small block class C towing your rig on a trailer. If you are expecting to go more than 60 on the flat and 40 uphill while towing, you might keep looking. Modern diesel (and even large disp gas) pick-ups have everyone spoiled with their performance, and a 78 class C isn't going to provide anything in the neighborhood of modern performance.
Travis..

I have a 454 in my class A and pull the jeep just fine. I would hold out if I was you!

I have a small 75 Class C with a 350. I have never towed another truck behind the "camper" but I tow my ~4000 pound boat. I have pulled that boat about 50,000 miles with this camper since 1996.

My camper has a 3.73 axle which does alright, but for years I have thought about switching to 4.10. I have a 79 pickup with a 350 and similar size tires with 4.10 and I think it would be just about perfect. As it is I can drive the camper ~65 mph pretty much anywhere without towing, but towing uphill or even empty in a serious headwind I am usually down to 50-55mph manually shifted in to second. I think with a 4.10 I could hold 60-65 towing at ~2700-2800 rpm which is where that 350 seems happiest.

I think the 350 would do the trick for you if it is in good shape. I average around 9 mpg real-world which I don't think is too bad considering what it is. Also you can beef up the 350 and get as much power out of it as you want depending on how much you want to spend.

It is a class C. Luckily smog isn't an issue for me :flipoff2: I wouldn't mind throwing a few bucks at the 350, but at the same time I do not want to polish a turd :( And would have to wait a few months before being able to do anything to it. I used to tow with a Ford Expedition that had a 4.6 V8 (281ci). The 350 is clearly larger but I know it is a lot heavier. I don't mind it being a bit slow, but don't want to be doing 40mph uphill either. Somebody suggested that I go test drive it so that I can get an idea on what kind of power (or lack of) I'm dealing with. Figured I could get the best feedback here first.

i don't know about the 4.6 expo, but that motor home empty will seem like a dog compared to a 5.4 expedition(2002) with your trailer in tow. for the rite price, a diesel swap would be nice. even a 6.2/6.5

Thanks for all the info guys.






I have a small 75 Class C with a 350. I have never towed another truck behind the "camper" but I tow my ~4000 pound boat. I have pulled that boat about 50,000 miles with this camper since 1996.

My camper has a 3.73 axle which does alright, but for years I have thought about switching to 4.10. I have a 79 pickup with a 350 and similar size tires with 4.10 and I think it would be just about perfect. As it is I can drive the camper ~65 mph pretty much anywhere without towing, but towing uphill or even empty in a serious headwind I am usually down to 50-55mph manually shifted in to second. I think with a 4.10 I could hold 60-65 towing at ~2700-2800 rpm which is where that 350 seems happiest.

I think the 350 would do the trick for you if it is in good shape. I average around 9 mpg real-world which I don't think is too bad considering what it is. Also you can beef up the 350 and get as much power out of it as you want depending on how much you want to spend.

Sweet! That's great to know. A diesel truck or motorhome would be great but that's not in my budget nor will it be anytime soon. All I want is something that will get my rig there and back, and something to sleep COMFORTABLY in and something i can cook in and have the family in. I use a fairly light trailer so I think with the rig on there it should be right around 4000lbs give or take. Thanks a bunch for that info, I was really hoping I'd get somebody that uses a class C with a 350 to tow :D I think I'm going to go check it out and test drive it tomorrow, I will report back.

Thanks for all the info guys.








Sweet! That's great to know. A diesel truck or motorhome would be great but that's not in my budget nor will it be anytime soon. All I want is something that will get my rig there and back, and something to sleep COMFORTABLY in and something i can cook in and have the family in. I use a fairly light trailer so I think with the rig on there it should be right around 4000lbs give or take. Thanks a bunch for that info, I was really hoping I'd get somebody that uses a class C with a 350 to tow :D I think I'm going to go check it out and test drive it tomorrow, I will report back.


Your truck and trailer is gonna weigh a lot more than 4000 pounds. With tons, I bet you're truck weighs that w/o the trailer.

See if you can find a tow rating for it. A lot of them have frame extensions to allow for the RV body an are only rated for #3500.

My dad has had a couple of class Cs, and the rear structure isn't what you'd call heavy duty. He never towed anything with either. I know it has been said, but make sure you look under the back to see if it looks scary weak back there.
Travis..

Guess my Expedition with the 281 on 33's was more Heavy Duty than the motorhome :flipoff2: :laughing:

Guess my Expedition with the 281 on 33's was more Heavy Duty than the motorhome :flipoff2: :laughing:

Have you really ever looked at how a motorhome is put together:flipoff2:
Travis..

. for the rite price, a diesel swap would be nice. even a 6.2/6.5 :laughing:

while agree a diesel swap would be nice(cummins) you definately do NOT want a 6.2/6.5 in a motorhome. especially one that you want to tow with. you will never get the power you can get out of a 350 and have the same reliability. and what power you can get will have a much,much higher cost per horsey.

and contrary to what you may read on the internet you will never get close to 20 mpg even empty :flipoff2:

:laughing:

while agree a diesel swap would be nice(cummins) you definately do NOT want a 6.2/6.5 in a motorhome. especially one that you want to tow with. you will never get the power you can get out of a 350 and have the same reliability. and what power you can get will have a much,much higher cost per horsey.

and contrary to what you may read on the internet you will never get close to 20 mpg even empty :flipoff2:



Makes sense.

I love my company gas card :grinpimp:

Have you really ever looked at how a motorhome is put together:flipoff2:
Travis..


Negative night rider, Going in COMPLETELY blind..








:laughing:

Negative night rider, Going in COMPLETELY blind..








:laughing:

Worst of a house, combined with the worst of a vehicle combined into one. However, they are great!

Look on Craigslist. I bought a really nice 34' class A for $8500. It's newer, very clean, everything works and has solar panels. In fact, new tires, new fridge and new toilet. Motorhomes are CHEAP right now, too. A buddy just bought a 42'? diesel that's only a few years old for $65k? I think he said. It's easily a $140k motorhome. Mine I had to pay sales tax on low book when I registered it in WA and that was $22k.

Keep in mind, too, Class A has more capacity than a Class C. More fuel, more water, more propane, more black/grey water. Class C's typically have the same capacities as a camp trailer. I can go the same distance on one tank of gas as you can for 3, kind of thing. Spokane to Moab is one stop in Ogden for gas, kind of thing - with my 6k lb Jeep on a 3k lb trailer behind it. Might be a $150 stop to your 3 $50 stops, though.

Obviously look for water damage. Water damage can be expensive and difficult to fix. like a cock roach, if you see some, there is probably more that you aren't seeing.

A newer unit will also get you better leveling jacks and generator.

If you plan on using RV campgrounds/resorts, keep in mind some have restrictions. The biggest one you'll find is against AL siding, they all want to see fiberglass. The more prestigous ones won't take anything more than 4 years old. Hell, there are even some city/county owned ones that mine is too old for. Anything over about 35' and most RV parks can't accomodate you.

Check the DOT stamp on the tires, if they are older than 7 years, you will want them replaced before you use it. Or if they are weather checked at all. That's easily a $1500 bill for a good set of Michellin/Toyo/GoodYear rubber.

But now that you are in the market for a motorhome, look at the market. Go down to the dealership and just walk through what they have and see their costs. Not that you'd buy one, but just so you can see what is out there and for how much $.

Look on Craigslist. I bought a really nice 34' class A for $8500. It's newer, very clean, everything works and has solar panels. In fact, new tires, new fridge and new toilet. Motorhomes are CHEAP right now, too. A buddy just bought a 42'? diesel that's only a few years old for $65k? I think he said. It's easily a $140k motorhome. Mine I had to pay sales tax on low book when I registered it in WA and that was $22k.

Keep in mind, too, Class A has more capacity than a Class C. More fuel, more water, more propane, more black/grey water. Class C's typically have the same capacities as a camp trailer. I can go the same distance on one tank of gas as you can for 3, kind of thing. Spokane to Moab is one stop in Ogden for gas, kind of thing - with my 6k lb Jeep on a 3k lb trailer behind it. Might be a $150 stop to your 3 $50 stops, though.

Obviously look for water damage. Water damage can be expensive and difficult to fix. like a cock roach, if you see some, there is probably more that you aren't seeing.

A newer unit will also get you better leveling jacks and generator.

If you plan on using RV campgrounds/resorts, keep in mind some have restrictions. The biggest one you'll find is against AL siding, they all want to see fiberglass. The more prestigous ones won't take anything more than 4 years old. Hell, there are even some city/county owned ones that mine is too old for. Anything over about 35' and most RV parks can't accomodate you.

Check the DOT stamp on the tires, if they are older than 7 years, you will want them replaced before you use it. Or if they are weather checked at all. That's easily a $1500 bill for a good set of Michellin/Toyo/GoodYear rubber.

But now that you are in the market for a motorhome, look at the market. Go down to the dealership and just walk through what they have and see their costs. Not that you'd buy one, but just so you can see what is out there and for how much $.


Thanks for all the info :grinpimp:
Although, the ones you mentioned are WAAAYYY more than what I am looking for price wise and size wise. My budget is $3,000. And the one I found is under that. And I don't have room to store a giant RV either. All I want is something to sleep in and be able to cook a meal in while towing my rig to and from the trail(s). Farthest I go wheeling is about 2-3 hours away. I don't need anything fancy or huge. Thanks for the info anyway though

Thanks for all the info :grinpimp:
Although, the ones you mentioned are WAAAYYY more than what I am looking for price wise and size wise. My budget is $3,000. And the one I found is under that. And I don't have room to store a giant RV either. All I want is something to sleep in and be able to cook a meal in while towing my rig to and from the trail(s). Farthest I go wheeling is about 2-3 hours away. I don't need anything fancy or huge. Thanks for the info anyway though

You can find one for that, I would think a late 70's or early 80's Class C or maybe a Class A. Friend of mine found a mid 80's Class A Winnebago in decent shape for under your budget.

I just picked up a 34' 1984 Rockwood motorhome with a 454 and am hoping it's gonna be up to the task. It's got relatively low milage for it's age but, looks like it's gonna need a new carb or at least a rebuild. I went with an 84 mainly because I can register it Historic (min 25 yrs old), avoid inspection and get a cheap insurance rate. We'll see what happens.

2k cant beat that..
http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/1618962341.html

2k cant beat that..
http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/1618962341.html

Not bad at all, dual a/c too, wish I had that

Most likely your thoughts will change once you get one and start using it. Once you get one, you'll realize how easy it is to just load up and go. When your ready for a break, you just pull into the closest WalMart and go to sleep.

It's hard to pass up a $1500 MH in good shape though.... I'd say get it. Worst case you outgrow it....

2k cant beat that..
http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/1618962341.html

damn that was quick. YOTAon40s did you get a new stabbin cabbin?

Build a bus or buy a Wanderlodge. Compare the construction of those to a stick and staple RV and you'll see why people do it.

www.skoolie.net

I had a '79 Class C Chevy. 400/T350, and it had a hard time doing 45mph empty, and I got about 6mpg. :barf:

I sold it and built my UHaul MDT toterhome, and have ~$7k into it and couldn't be happier. Made 65mph on the 2,600 mile round trip to and from KOH, and got ~8.5mpg with the FToy in the back. I was probably about 16,000# going down the road.

What does LooseKannon have powering his Class A?

I had a '79 Class C Chevy. 400/T350, and it had a hard time doing 45mph empty, and I got about 6mpg. :barf:

I sold it and built my UHaul MDT toterhome, and have ~$7k into it and couldn't be happier. Made 65mph on the 2,600 mile round trip to and from KOH, and got ~8.5mpg with the FToy in the back. I was probably about 16,000# going down the road.

What does LooseKannon have powering his Class A?

FWIW mine is a TBI 454 and 4L80EHD (4 spd auto). Loaded, with the rig in tow, I'm about 24,000 lbs. I get 7-9 mpg all day long at 65 mph, depending on if it's flat or mt pass. Rolling hills will flat kill my gas mileage, to the point I can watch the needle move (not literally, but I bet it's in the 5's). Head winds don't phase the mileage or ability to maintain speed.

2k cant beat that..
http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/1618962341.html
It's gone! :(

damn that was quick. YOTAon40s did you get a new stabbin cabbin?

I wish, didn't even get to see the post!






I went and looked at the motorhome, I'll post a pic of it here later on. It ran like a champ, I went and drove it for about 15 minutes. No sputtering, got it up to 50MPH on a main street :laughing: There was one thing that made me want to think it through some more. The a/c unit didn't have a cover on it on top, and it rained for a couple of days out here in cali. The water got through the a/c vents and soaked the carpet (I guess carpet wouldn't be good for the dirt anyway). And one of the pipes going to one of the stove burners is leaking, and it doesn't have a generator (Never came with one from the factory). The guy is asking $2,200 obo. I told him I'd was going to take a few days to think about it, I figure it runs strong and MOST everything works, maybe he'll take $1,800.

FWIW mine is a TBI 454 and 4L80EHD (4 spd auto). Loaded, with the rig in tow, I'm about 24,000 lbs. I get 7-9 mpg all day long at 65 mph, depending on if it's flat or mt pass. Rolling hills will flat kill my gas mileage, to the point I can watch the needle move (not literally, but I bet it's in the 5's). Head winds don't phase the mileage or ability to maintain speed.

:grinpimp:

That's really good to know. After my experience, you couldn't pay me enough to buy another SBC motorhome. Now I'd consider a BBC if I saw one at a good price (If I weren't already setup like I am). What year is yours? Must be somewhat new to have that 4L80...mid-90's? How is your rearend geared?

I do OK with the rolling hills in general, but worse when I'm heavily loaded (2 rigs) than when loaded medium (1 rig).

I had a 24' Chevy 350 powered C Class and it was "livable"

With planning it took hills fine. Only thing I can say is check out the rear overhang to see if it has a full frame or like mine, a stamped steel extension.

You will need to gusset the hell out of it for it to survive if it is stamped steel.

what does loosekannon have powering his class a?

454

:grinpimp:

That's really good to know. After my experience, you couldn't pay me enough to buy another SBC motorhome. Now I'd consider a BBC if I saw one at a good price (If I weren't already setup like I am). What year is yours? Must be somewhat new to have that 4L80...mid-90's? How is your rearend geared?

I do OK with the rolling hills in general, but worse when I'm heavily loaded (2 rigs) than when loaded medium (1 rig).

94. I know it has a disc brake D80 out back, but I'm not sure on the ratio. And when I had the cover off changing the lube, I didn't think to check :rolleyes: I'd guess 4.10/4.56.

When I was looking, I found lots of BBC class A's for well under $10k... Craigslist is all I have to say ;) Or if you want a newer unit, you can get one a few years old for ~$20k. By newer I'm talking 02. I looked at one for $22k. Ford V10 chassis with the Allison trans. It had 3? slides, washer/dryer, central AC (units were in the basement), etc...etc... It was in premo condition. Had I wanted payments, I would have went this way instead. :D

94. I know it has a disc brake D80 out back, but I'm not sure on the ratio. And when I had the cover off changing the lube, I didn't think to check :rolleyes: I'd guess 4.10/4.56.

When I was looking, I found lots of BBC class A's for well under $10k... Craigslist is all I have to say ;) Or if you want a newer unit, you can get one a few years old for ~$20k. By newer I'm talking 02. I looked at one for $22k. Ford V10 chassis with the Allison trans. It had 3? slides, washer/dryer, central AC (units were in the basement), etc...etc... It was in premo condition. Had I wanted payments, I would have went this way instead. :D

Your rig sounds a lot like mine, '91 454 TBI, 31' Class A with a 4l80E and D80 disc brakes out back. I had some threads out about my gear ratio and figured it to be a 4.63, most likely what you have also.

Mine didn't run too good when I got it-it ran fine, but had major power loss at anything over 60% throttle. Replaced the fuel pump, sending unit and that helped, then added Thorley long tube headers, full 3" exhaust, magnaflow muffler, and a TBIchips.com "towmaster" chip. Huge differences from all that, the chip made as big a difference as the headers and did wonders for the shifting and dropped the trans. and engine temps too.

My ride ain't that pretty outside, but we redid the inside and it's nice. It's got tons of squeaks and rattles and I think I'm gonna replace the 8R19.5's on the front with 245/70's. I web wheel motorhomes once a week probably-the newer V10's, but I like having mine paid for. Here it is:

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e335/dragr1/1991%20Motorhome/DSCN0715.jpg



http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e335/dragr1/Motorhome%20interior%20remodel/IMG_3052.jpg

Allegro's are nice units. I've thought about doing something similiar to mine - headers at least. Not sure if the chip would help much, because it already tries to ping on hills with super unleaded. But I think the headers would be a good investment.

What I'd really like to do is pick up an 8.1 (502) SFI unit and toss in it :grinpimp: I can tune the fawk out of that engine to pull out some NICE numbers!!! Or even SFI the 454.... But like you say, it's paid for and it fits the bill nicely. Hard to mess with something that works wehn you don't have the time...Or money ;)

Allegro's are nice units. I've thought about doing something similiar to mine - headers at least. Not sure if the chip would help much, because it already tries to ping on hills with super unleaded. But I think the headers would be a good investment.

What I'd really like to do is pick up an 8.1 (502) SFI unit and toss in it :grinpimp: I can tune the fawk out of that engine to pull out some NICE numbers!!! Or even SFI the 454.... But like you say, it's paid for and it fits the bill nicely. Hard to mess with something that works wehn you don't have the time...Or money ;)

The chip is only $150 and is really worth it for just the transmission shifting alone-really hard to tell you how much of a difference it is. I run 89 and may get a ping every now and then, but only at partial throttle.

The headers sound great, very throaty, but a little loud at heavy throttle right now, I need to add a second muffler.

The chip is only $150 and is really worth it for just the transmission shifting alone-really hard to tell you how much of a difference it is. I run 89 and may get a ping every now and then, but only at partial throttle.

The headers sound great, very throaty, but a little loud at heavy throttle right now, I need to add a second muffler.

Hmm Maybe I'll look into the chip. I just read through his 'TBI Mods' page. Not much there I didn't already know, but still a good read!! Although, I have thought about a good set of AL heads, cam and headers, but didn't even think the TBI unit I have no wouldn't work. I figured my TBI would be good for a lot moer than 600 cfm. It's a very large unit. But then again, I've never looked into what it was or even what injectors or fuel pump it had. Like I said before, it runs/drives great, so time and money limit me modding it.

Hmm Maybe I'll look into the chip. I just read through his 'TBI Mods' page. Not much there I didn't already know, but still a good read!! Although, I have thought about a good set of AL heads, cam and headers, but didn't even think the TBI unit I have no wouldn't work. I figured my TBI would be good for a lot moer than 600 cfm. It's a very large unit. But then again, I've never looked into what it was or even what injectors or fuel pump it had. Like I said before, it runs/drives great, so time and money limit me modding it.

Yeah, might not want to mod the tow/camping rig too much anyway-wanna make sure something gets home!

Yeah, might not want to mod the tow/camping rig too much anyway-wanna make sure something gets home!

True! :D