well the truck already had a solid axle but im basically doing everything involved with swapping a solid axle into a truck with out one.
the specs are a dodge dana 60 some steel plate/tube some stock 52" main leafs and alot of work/handmade crap. the only parts bought so far are; ord xover arm draglink, agr steering box/agr ram assist the spring bushings and i "rebuilt" the kingpins. literally everything else has been or is being made by me. some pics
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/CIMG0902.jpg
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/CIMG0917.jpg
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/CIMG0924.jpg
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/CIMG0923.jpg
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/CIMG0925.jpg

first and formost i would like to say that my use of the word booty is by no means as a stab at any ethnicity/race creed what have you,


<----------:flipoff2:


Seriously though, the brackets look good.
Why the round tube for the crossmember?
And did you change the spring mount width? Or just move the drivers perch?

I dig the monoleaf. :flipoff2:

<----------:flipoff2:


Seriously though, the brackets look good.
Why the round tube for the crossmember?
And did you change the spring mount width? Or just move the drivers perch?
thanks i could have done one thing differently(a mistake) but is only for looks and involves a "speed hole" so im over it.
the tube was the strongest material i had around, that and its the same tubing the bumper is made out of which it will eventually tie into. i changed the mount width with the tube crossmember which also locates the springs, ill have some pics of it put together up tomorrow.

I dig the monoleaf. :flipoff2:

less unsprung weight, better for the bumps!:homer:

more pics, and a problem.
pass full bump
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/CIMG0930.jpg
driver full bump
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/CIMG0927.jpg
tire clearance 37" at full bump.
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/CIMG0929.jpg
shackle
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/CIMG0928.jpg
spring hanger
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/CIMG0926.jpg
before with stock length 2" springs i could stuff a 35 into the wheel well, i would like to do this with the 37's. i dont really know how well you can see it in the pics but i need more uptravel. i prob have 3-4" less uptravel now than i did with stock steering, if i build it to the ride height i want ill only have maby an inch or two till it hits the bump maby 2" till full bump.
the main issue is clearance of the pitman arm and the driver spring, what i need is a pitman with less drop, any one got part#'s or do i need to bend mine. the tie rod hits the engine crossmember but thats no big deal since counted on this, im probably going to just make a new one or mod the stock well see.

Good idea on that spring hanger.

for reference

driver stuffed somewhat(stock length springs, stock steering)http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/CIMG0817.jpg

i have a pass pic, but i have to edit it.

You are assuming that anyone here would give a flying crap if you did make a stab at any ethnic race?

I wouldn't....lol:laughing:

You should hear how me and my roomate talk about certain....well...never mind. Lets just say that I am only racist against two certain races, and its not mexican, asian, native american, pacific islander or caucasian. :flipoff2:

As for the uptravel, just leave the monoleaf and your good.

You are assuming that anyone here would give a flying crap if you did make a stab at any ethnic race?

I wouldn't....lol:laughing:

You should here how me and my roomate talk about certain....well...never mind. Lets just say that I am only racist against two certain races, and its not mexican, asian, native american, pacific islander or caucasian. :flipoff2:

As for the uptravel, just leave the monoleaf and your good.

Me too:flipoff2:

the main issue is clearance of the pitman arm and the driver spring, what i need is a pitman with less drop, any one got part#'s or do i need to bend mine. the tie rod hits the engine crossmember but thats no big deal since counted on this, im probably going to just make a new one or mod the stock well see.

Been working through this same issue. I moved my front hangers up into the frame which reduced my lift to only 2 inches creating less uptravel. I tried these arms:

1. 2000 Jeep XJ pitman arm ,2 1/2" drop (too much)
2. ORD drop pitman arm, 2 1/2" drop (too much)
3. Full size waggy Pitman arm, no drop, doesn't clear the frame.

This worked

Ford 3/4 ton pitman arm, 1 1/2" drop, "Keys" are off set from both XJ and ORD Pitman arms, took a hacksaw and cut keys out (as suggested here on Pirate). Clocked to the right angle and now will grind off the end of the threaded portion of the pitman arm to clear the frame. I am tempted to just heat and bend 1/2" to clear frame better, but need to get another arm from the JY for a spare in case it breaks on the trail .

Hope this helps.

You are assuming that anyone here would give a flying crap if you did make a stab at any ethnic race?

I wouldn't....lol:laughing:

You should here how me and my roomate talk about certain....well...never mind. Lets just say that I am only racist against two certain races, and its not mexican, asian, native american, pacific islander or caucasian. :flipoff2:

As for the uptravel, just leave the monoleaf and your good.

you never know man, look at those kids at ucsd who had a themed party and now are labeled racists.

anyways i called ORD yesterday, im sending my pitman arm back and swaping it out for a different one, which i assume is this ford arm. we shall see. cycled the suspension with out the arm and it looks wayyyy better and there should be clearance with my new arm. cant really do much now till i get that new arm i guess today i could finish the inner shackles as well as the frame plates for the shackle bushing, then i get to work on all the other crap in this truck like the hood, pain the front valence and tail gate, patch the holes in driver floor, some electrical stuff, wire my power windows/locks, interior, make my tack work, tint my driver window/vent window. make seat rails and put suspension seats in finish my front and rear bumpers. maby a stereo. damnit

more crap, the spring swap is done, next bump stops and shock mounts. and i need a tierod to finish my hydro assist, also i was able to get a pitman arm that would give me up travel. got the brakes and all that crap done, now i need one hub, sorta. here is a pic at ride height the tires are 35's http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/CIMG0943.jpg
full droop
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/CIMG0944.jpg keep in mind that under full articulation one side will be stuffed into the entire fender and the other should drop out a bit more, probably even with the pinch seam. also i can get more droop if i use a main leaf with more arch.
bad picture of uncompleted brakes.http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/CIMG0941-1.jpg

looking good

what rotors did you go with on the brakes? you buy new hubs for the 60 too?

looking good
thanks

what rotors did you go with on the brakes? you buy new hubs for the 60 too?
stock rotors that i drilled. i used the same spun hub but with green loctite. if it eats a bearing again im in the same boat i began with? so eh? im actually considering going to dually hubs and running stock hummer 12bolt rims. the h1 tires are just soooo cheap and i think they fit the intended purpose of this rig, that and ill have double beadlocks.

here is the most recent pictures of the front end. and the bumper is finished finally.
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/CIMG0946.jpg
new pitman arm.
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/CIMG0947.jpg


now im building shock hoops and mounting my 14" bilsteins, one of which i broke. as with every thing else i do it will take forever tho.
im pretty stoked on bilstein even tho i told them that i dropped my shock and broke it, it seems like they are going to replace it free of charge. so if you do it thank you bilstein.

well first off the truck has been "complete" for about a month or two. i havent driven it in four wheel drive yet since i dont have a front shaft(waiting till i put in the nv4500/doubler) anyways the road manners are good, not great there is more body roll but thats to be expected(if i were to add a sway bar it would be perfect, but im not going to). the steering is RAD, super responsive and tight just awesome. drove it around on cement with the front hubs locked with a spool, it was interesting to say the least. there was some resistance but it turned and was controllable. keep in mind this was on the street, and before with the stock box i could not turn the wheels at all with the hubs locked even while stopped. i also have decreased my turning radius, the pitman arm i used has more throw so i have maxed out my 8" throw ram= better steering (and yes my steering stops have all been adjusted so nothing is going to brake) so its an improvement to say the least.

the ride is good, i think i lucked out with the spring pack i built, its the right height and seems to have the right spring rate. i might need a stiffer shock but its hard to tell if thats because of the added body roll or the shocks. i took it offroad a little bit, 2wd and in some bumps it rides fine way smoother than before, the best description i can give is imagine an old school caddy with blown shocks but no bounce. i dont think ive bottomed out anything yet so we shall see what happens in the desert. the added weight of 100gallons of diesel in the bed probably has something to do with how it rides right now as well.

so now its just random bullshit, i think i put way to big of a cooler on my powersteering, either it leaks cause it has a high temp seal and it dosent get hot enough to seal or the seal is bad (used agr pump what ever) with the cooling system set up the way it is i should have no problem running a high pressure high volume pump in the future. i may eventually need to get a different reservoir but since the fluid dosent get hot i can put that off for later.


kinda pissed cause i know photobucket makes thier free version slow to motivate you to buy the pro version... fuck you photobucket.

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/CIMG1009.jpg
how it sits. painted the hood/front as well
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/CIMG1011.jpg
steering stuff.
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/CIMG1013.jpg
shock hoop pass side.
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/CIMG1012.jpg
shock hoop driver side, clears ac pump that isnt installed.
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/CIMG1010.jpg
"foot" for the shock hoops.
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/CIMG0995.jpg
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/CIMG0996.jpg
tach pickup bracket i made.
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/CIMG0987.jpg
milled out harmonic balancer.

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/CIMG0980.jpg
how it rides...

Truck looks like its going to work bitchin.... love the fab work...

was the truck originally 2wd?

More info on the tach! I've got a 6.5 that is going to need a tach other then the alternator junk setup.

Truck looks like its going to work bitchin.... love the fab work...

was the truck originally 2wd? no it was 4x4, but the dana 60 is a dodge dana 60 so i had to make everything new anyways.

More info on the tach! I've got a 6.5 that is going to need a tach other then the alternator junk setup.

its an autometer procomp diesel tach, it works with a magnetic pickup. the only reason why i went with this tach is cause it only goes to 6000 rpm. i had a friend mill out my balancer for the pick ups, it works but not very well, i still need to work some kinks out. if i ever make(pay some one to cut one out) a reluctor ring ill let you know. the biggest problem is getting the gap right for the pickup. since my gap changes, so either i already need a new balancer or something else much worse is wrong. either way im not dealing with it right now.

Ah, thanks. I've been looking at the Dakota Digital kit. Simply because I already a Pro Comp tach laying around that I can use with it.

If you are looking for another option down the road the kit is $110, and you can use any tach with it. Measures the teeth on the flywheel. Not as plug-n-play as the Autometer though.

I can see the balancer vibrating enough to throw the tach off just from normal operation. Wouldn't surprise me. You can try mounting it to the flywheel instead? Just tack weld little blocks for the sensor to pickup. Although a reluctor could be pretty easy to fab with a old pulley. Just a thought for when it comes time for the details.

Dig the truck man!

Ah, thanks. I've been looking at the Dakota Digital kit. Simply because I already a Pro Comp tach laying around that I can use with it.

If you are looking for another option down the road the kit is $110, and you can use any tach with it. Measures the teeth on the flywheel. Not as plug-n-play as the Autometer though.

I can see the balancer vibrating enough to throw the tach off just from normal operation. Wouldn't surprise me. You can try mounting it to the flywheel instead? Just tack weld little blocks for the sensor to pickup. Although a reluctor could be pretty easy to fab with a old pulley. Just a thought for when it comes time for the details.

Dig the truck man!

thanks man im getting stoked on it to. pinstriped the paint with some bushes today it was fun.

its together now and well its prob going to be that way for a bit.ya i thought about the fly wheel and i thought about a reluctor ring with the pulley, eh i dunno ill figure it out.

How many G whizzes are there in here?

I don't know how I missed this build for so long. Looks good

I'm copying your front bump stop idea :D

How many G whizzes are there in here?
just one
I don't know how I missed this build for so long. Looks good

I'm copying your front bump stop idea :D

it works. depending on how nuts you get in the bumps you might want to brace the frame a bit. this was by far the best thing i did suspension wise to the front of my old blazer. im sure nice shocks would have nice too but i never got that far with that truck. the bilsteins i have on this seem alright, i havent taken it offroad enough yet tho.

How many G whizzes are there in here?

just one


I count 2. Did you smoke too much pot and forget your old username and password? Or are you just stupid?

g-wizz
Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Member # 91791
Location: san diego ca
Posts: 665

gee whizz
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2010
Member # 163759
Location: San Diego
Posts: 77
g-wizz- so my 666 post by chance was to vote for pot, i thought it was funny. now i have 665 wow...

Sorry dude, but that is very much NOT booty fab. very nice work.

I count 2. Did you smoke too much pot and forget your old username and password? Or are you just stupid?

g-wizz
Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Member # 91791
Location: san diego ca
Posts: 665

gee whizz
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2010
Member # 163759
Location: San Diego
Posts: 77
g-wizz- so my 666 post by chance was to vote for pot, i thought it was funny. now i have 665 wow...

ya bro sure thats exactly what happened. i forgot randomly out of the blue cause i smoked weed. i then robbed a bunch of people to fund my habit and went on a high speed chase cause the cops were trying to catch me, and in an attempt to throw them off and redeem my self i created a new identity here in pirate and now everything is gravy. totally true

i dunno i thought it was kind of ironic that my 666th post was to vote for the legalization of pot to help california with its debt. regardless of your stance on that drug it is no worse than booze or tobacco. most of the arguments against it are bullshit. no matter how you look at it, if you have some legal way for people to fuck them selves up, some people are going to do that, and then look for something else or something more. which is why i find it funny that the government is controlling what i can do "for my best interests and safety" its not heroin and if it were legalized enough people do it in california that the state would benefit from it economically. that probably applies to other states as well. im not trying to push it on to any one else but if i want to do something to myself i should have the right to do so.

Sorry dude, but that is very much NOT booty fab. very nice work.

thank you

i hope some of my ideas help other people with their rigs or projects. i know alof of the stuff ive seen here on pirate has helped me with mine. all of this shit was done by hand so no real special tools besides basic fab stuff so anyone can do it.

just one


it works. depending on how nuts you get in the bumps you might want to brace the frame a bit. this was by far the best thing i did suspension wise to the front of my old blazer. im sure nice shocks would have nice too but i never got that far with that truck. the bilsteins i have on this seem alright, i havent taken it offroad enough yet tho.

Yeah I'm definitely not gonna get airborne. The engine cross member I made should give the frame enough strength.

I've had this pair of timbren rubber springs for months now and never got around to putting them on.

Some of your work looks nice. Also I can tell its deeply thought out ...as are your views on somkin dat sticky icky icky. But please keep your dirty hippie comments on your facebook page and "legalize it" bumper stickers. :D

Some of your work looks nice. Also I can tell its deeply thought out ...as are your views on somkin dat sticky icky icky. But please keep your dirty hippie comments on your facebook page and "legalize it" bumper stickers. :D
thanks
ha ya i dont rock bumper stickers, part of the not trying to shove it down other peoples throat. the only reason why i brought it up on here was cause someone was complaining about all the social programs california offers to californians and others, and that were broke because of it. i can understand that some of the programs are excessive but i can also see how many of them are good and probably do make life better for californians which should be the intentions of our government. i mean we do pay or invest in them a good amount of money, we should get a good return. the not taxing pot is kind of like not drilling for oil, when you know there is oil. its just an untouched or untapped resource. some states get enough revenue from their alcohol taxes alone that they dont even have a sales tax.

for fear of this becoming general chit chat this is the end of my views on pot.
here are some pics.
the scrap dana 60 steering arm that now is a d ring mount and does other stuff as well. http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/CIMG1017.jpg
rear bumper which still needs a receiver hitch and alot more fab but that will happen later
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/CIMG1018.jpg

put the front drive shaft in and drove it in four for the first time in 8 months, tested it out on a mountain nothing crazy but fun none the less.
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/CIMG1035.jpg
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/CIMG1037.jpg
^LA haze:( http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/CIMG1039.jpg

and did this yesterday. http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/CIMG1031.jpg

Looks like fun! Fully diggin that rear bumper!

Looks like fun! Fully diggin that rear bumper!

ya it was fun, maby to much fun cause the truck no longer works:(

well it worked really well when it did haha. i guess this is what makes it a project truck.

ya it was fun, maby to much fun cause the truck no longer works:(

well it worked really well when it did haha. i guess this is what makes it a project truck.

what happened to it?

cool build man.

what happened to it?

cool build man.
thanks
well my awesome 6.2L diesel stopped working. i dunno its probably something simple like air in the IP, but i have been trying to bleed it to no avail. im actually just about to start working on that right now.

but other than that this is the only problem i have had with that motor, and its probably something i did. i have no symptoms of a IP failure other than it randomly blowing up. but i doubt that. even so it looks like i can find a majority of small parts that are replaced when rebuilding these things, and they dont cost a lot of money, well except for one part.

ya it was fun, maby to much fun cause the truck no longer works:(

well it worked really well when it did haha. i guess this is what makes it a project truck.

just figured it out today. STOKED!!!
i have a clogged return line, the truck would start fine idile, then build up pressure and idle rough. when the throttle was stabbed the pressure increase would shut the pump down when returning to idle. wierd shit

Nice build.

Nice build.

thanks

How do you like the diesel?

How do you like the diesel?

it was alright, i broke it again altho the first time was just air and a loose injector. now im leaning towards a head gasket. i dunno i have been beating the shit out of it so what ever its to be expected. i think im going to be putting a 6bt it next. when i find a good deal on one.

for normal trail driving its fine, plenty of low end torq not a whole lot of horsepower but it gets up and goes, im running a manual tranney tho so that could account for that. throttle response is "gas like" vs other turbo diesels. i dunno it gets good mileage. so far besides being broken once or twice its been completly reliable and i havent touched it. so besides it needs a head gasket or a new rod. i have liked it. either way i never intended to put money into it. so now its time to search for something new.

it was alright, i broke it again altho the first time was just air and a loose injector. now im leaning towards a head gasket. i dunno i have been beating the shit out of it so what ever its to be expected. i think im going to be putting a 6bt it next. when i find a good deal on one.

for normal trail driving its fine, plenty of low end torq not a whole lot of horsepower but it gets up and goes, im running a manual tranney tho so that could account for that. throttle response is "gas like" vs other turbo diesels. i dunno it gets good mileage. so far besides being broken once or twice its been completly reliable and i havent touched it. so besides it needs a head gasket or a new rod. i have liked it. either way i never intended to put money into it. so now its time to search for something new.

well its not the headgasket...

my air cleaner stud broke and got sucked down the intake.

well its not the headgasket...

my air cleaner stud broke and got sucked down the intake.


engine out yet?

ungood.

engine out yet?

ungood.

nope.

when i had it towed alot of coolant came out of the left tail pipe, and there is coolant in the upper part of the intake. something is broken bad. now that i know its because of a foreign object im over it.

im sure ill tear it down to part out whats good. man this sucks.

if you guys want any parts from the motor like the IP injectors ill or other random stuff let me know. this motor ran VERY well before now, im sure the other right head is good. the IP is a newly rebuilt unit with roughly 4-6000 miles on it, and it ran strong. man this is frustrating, i didnt really expect this to happen.
well time for a cummins or PSD.
6$ rod 1000$ engine.

I want the IJ pump, injectors, and hard lines.... i'm local to you.... san bernardino area..


you ought to consider an LS5.3 with a 465 behind it.... carbed 5.3 setups are CHEAP compared to a cummins or powerstroke swap...


PM me

I want the IJ pump, injectors, and hard lines.... i'm local to you.... san bernardino area..


you ought to consider an LS5.3 with a 465 behind it.... carbed 5.3 setups are CHEAP compared to a cummins or powerstroke swap...


PM me

ill sell you what ever. just give me some time to actually take the motor apart and see what the damage is. im sure i can work something out. i have alot of new stuff on the motor. like a hays super clutch, flywheel ect.
i want to keep it diesel. butttt at this point who knows. just found out today that i cant easily put a cummins infront of my nv4500, or well i have to change the input as well as the first gear cause i have a early low ratio NV4500. looks like the easiest swap will be a 6.5
i dunno i want something turbo.

i have a nv4500/doubler that i was just about to put into it.

maby this is what is going to make the truck a fun only deal. who knows. if i go gas. it wont be daily driven so ill probably go with a big block.

man things just got complicated.

didnt know you already had a manual trans....

i really like the diesel as well.... i have no issues with the 6.2 even though many on this board hate them.... i love mine.

a 6.5 would be cool and the swap would obviously be much easier than a 4/6bt or ford...problem with diesels is the $$$... a used cummins draws rediculous money... a used GM 6.2/5 is also too much IMO...

guess that's why i have a collection of square bodies surrounding my place...lol... it just makes more sense to buy the whole truck.



either way.... PM me when that injec pump/lines/injectors comes out.... i want em.

didnt know you already had a manual trans....

i really like the diesel as well.... i have no issues with the 6.2 even though many on this board hate them.... i love mine.

a 6.5 would be cool and the swap would obviously be much easier than a 4/6bt or ford...problem with diesels is the $$$... a used cummins draws rediculous money... a used GM 6.2/5 is also too much IMO...

guess that's why i have a collection of square bodies surrounding my place...lol... it just makes more sense to buy the whole truck.



either way.... PM me when that injec pump/lines/injectors comes out.... i want em.

actually you would be suprized how much some of those motors are going for. just dont look here, check craigslist. ive found numerous cummins between 1000-2000, all in varying conditions, but the interesting thing is that the condition dosent seem to affect the price.
i would do a 6.5 but they arnt that much cheaper than the cummins im finding and even being a factory motor i would have some random clearance issues. with stuff on the firewall. like the ac box. ( i know thats a lame excuse but the whole point of this truck was to have a stock factory truck with the factory amenities that is more capable and reliable)

ill let you know when i decide what im going to do with the motor.

I vote 6bt all the way!:grinpimp:

I vote 6bt all the way!:grinpimp:

ya i know i want one. well see what happens.

any one on the pirate board have a high ratio 1st gear nv4500 that wants to trade it for the early chevy low ratio 6.32 1st maby trade the whole transmission depending on condition, or just the gears. cause it looks like i need the higher ratio for the cummins input.

well i now own a cummins dodge truck. swap should start taking place when i get it ripped out and sell the dodge.

but needless to say im STOKED!!! this thing runs good!!!:smokin:

What year Cummins did you go with? Can't wait to see some progress.

What year Cummins did you go with? Can't wait to see some progress.

an 89 non intercooled ve pumped one. the truck that its in right now only has reverse but man that motor has some power. i was brake standing it and it definitely wants to go when the turbo starts to spool. lots of smoke, its going to be rad.

i have to rip everything out of my truck and box the frame, but after that ill start the swap. ill post up when i start working on it.

some progress. sorta.
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/CIMG1131.jpg
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/CIMG1162.jpg
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/CIMG1161.jpg
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/CIMG1159.jpg
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/CIMG1163.jpg

i will eventually box the rest of the front and possibly the rear, but im going to wait to have the motor and everything mounted before i start to mess with that.

thanks for the pics of the frame boxing. gives me motivation to do the burb this summer. looks good

Any plans for coating the inside of the boxed frame? A buddy of mine coated the inside of his yota frame with ATF using a long spray nozzle. It IS a yota though, we all know chevy frames dont rust but you never know when someone is gonna be looking in there :D

thanks for the pics of the frame boxing. gives me motivation to do the burb this summer. looks good thanks

Any plans for coating the inside of the boxed frame? A buddy of mine coated the inside of his yota frame with ATF using a long spray nozzle. It IS a yota though, we all know chevy frames dont rust but you never know when someone is gonna be looking in there :D

the inside was cleaned and painted prior to the plates being put it, the plates were painted on the back side prior to being welded. im sure the paint died in the HAZ but what ever. when its all done i may use expanding foam or something to seal it all in. i will do something about it before i take it on any trails. but honestly its really not that big of a deal. yet anyways.

those welds will never hold bro. TURN UP THE HEAT.

Any updates, did that dodge have a 60 under the front?

those welds will never hold bro. TURN UP THE HEAT.



Any updates, did that dodge have a 60 under the front?

naw the dodge was a 2wd, if it were it would probably be a dana 61. i already bought a dodge 60 for this swap. i also have a closed knuckle dodge dana 70 which is waiting to get the outers from this 60 when it breaks cause of the cummins.

as far as updates, im still doing the trans crossmember right now. its almost done. i have some pictures of it but i havetn loaded them cause i got a new computer and it needs some software or something.
the engine and trans crossmember are made out of 3/4" thick plate, uses the stock dodge motor mounts, and the belly will be completely flat (might have a 3/8" buldge on the bottom of t-case)

bro-gress

camera is dead. or on its way to being dead.

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/cummins%20swap/CIMG1132.jpg
early picture with the frame not boxed.

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/cummins%20swap/CIMG1274.jpg
driver front frame section, you can see the steering box bracing done in the back ground. the plate on the tube also forms a bulkhead inside the frame rail.

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/cummins%20swap/CIMG1275.jpg
passenger side frame rail.

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/cummins%20swap/CIMG1276.jpg
drivers side with steering box(ed?)

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/cummins%20swap/CIMG1317.jpg
the motor, on jackstands. the mounts are built, but cant be welded or installed untill the motor is pulled out again.

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/cummins%20swap/CIMG1322.jpg
dosent fit

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/cummins%20swap/CIMG1352.jpg
flat belly.

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/cummins%20swap/CIMG1351.jpg
time for a new floor, ill need to cut even more out of it to run my 4" exhaust over the t case.

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/cummins%20swap/CIMG1356.jpg
crossmembers, cut out of 3/4" thick steel. the bottom is the front engine crossmember which will be attached to the frame similarly to the trans crossmember.

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/cummins%20swap/CIMG1364.jpg
engine crossmember with the 1st design tabs, also in this pic its missing the gussets that prevent the tab that attaches to the motor mount from folding down.

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/cummins%20swap/CIMG1366.jpg plate that attaches to the doubler and locates the motor mounts.

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/cummins%20swap/CIMG1370-2.jpg

everything "hung" in place. i still need to touch up the crossmember with some holes cause its heavy, but mechanically its basically complete. its still tacked together tho.


even tho these mounts are pretty wide im going to make a "torq" bracket that attaches to the back of the front out put on the 205 using another stock rubber motor mount, much in the same that gm did with the mount that bolts to the side of your 203,205 t cases, except mine will be on the back.

How long is your drivetrain?

Did you move the rear axle back?

Thinking about doing this same setup in a blazer, wondering if there will be enough room. I know that drivetrain is long.

Looks good though, will be watching this thread.

very nice..

i like the linx coating

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/cummins%20swap/shiftlevers.jpg

"plate" shift levers. now they are round. they are bent that way to clear the bench when its slammed forward.

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/cummins%20swap/transshot2.jpg
shows the shifter set up, its not finished but it will use linkage cut out of plate that snakes around the t case to give maximum clearance for my next problem, that huge 4" exhaust that has to go on top of everything.

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/cummins%20swap/revisionca.jpg
ill just call this un-progress, i had to revise the main plate to the crossmember. when i mocked it up with the ply wood i did not account for the thickness of the bungs. the result was a slight interference with the with the mounting pad for the out put support on the side of the t case. i could have cut off the corner of the pad off the t case but that would have been ghetto. sooo how ever many weeks its been im almost back to where i was at before.

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/cummins%20swap/crossmembershot2.jpg
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/cummins%20swap/transshot.jpg

i would have really liked to have the new drawing for the shift linkage done today but its not. at least the 203 one will be super easy.

How long is your drivetrain? really really long via the calibrated eye ball, i want to say just the trans and t case are like 5 feet from bell to out put i dunno i didnt measure it, so 3 more feet for the cummins. and i havent yet attached both together out side of the truck.

Did you move the rear axle back? no. when the truck gets thrashed i might move it forward. luckily that should be a while since i cant thrash it if it cant drive.

Thinking about doing this same setup in a blazer, wondering if there will be enough room. I know that drivetrain is long. its not overly long, im sure you could get away with a cv shaft in a blazer. i think its still about the same as some auto set ups, ill put it this way. my new crossmember is roughly 6"? further back than my old one? so maby a couple more inches back for the out put. im sure ord has some figure or measurement for how much further their out put back with the doubler. regardless i wouldnt consider it to long for a blazer. im still going to run a 2 piece shaft on the rear.

Looks good though, will be watching this thread.

very nice..

i like the linx coating
actually its duraback. more diy friendly i think? i dunno there was some reason i picked that stuff over the rest. i think it was the color selection and uv protection, that and it was only like 90 a gallon, where as most other "bed liners" were like 30-50 a quart or something.

Awesome man thanks for the info

What about running the exhaust outside the frame?

What about running the exhaust outside the frame?

there is no room, the only place that looks like it would kinda work is near the ac air box. even so 4" wont fit, everywhere else there is either a tube or a shock. im not worried about the floor, it will be legit when it gets done.



the shifter thats a bit more complete and yes it works, altho the detents are actually pretty hard so i might have to shim the bolt that pre loads them.

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/cummins%20swap/uppershifters.jpg

This is coming along awesome.:beer:
Not sure if it will work for you but have you looked into oval exhaust tubing from DRgas http://drgas.mybisi.com/products/oval-tubing-and-bends

Ive been using the 4" tube for years on a few of my V8 rx7s .

This is coming along awesome.:beer:
Not sure if it will work for you but have you looked into oval exhaust tubing from DRgas http://drgas.mybisi.com/products/oval-tubing-and-bends

Ive been using the 4" tube for years on a few of my V8 rx7s .
thanks, ill look into it if the stuff i already bought dosent work. i should have enough room to make it all work without being ovalized but we shall see. still need to order the driveline brake before i do the exhaust tho.

nice work

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/cummins%20swap/shiftertopcompressed.jpg

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/cummins%20swap/shiftertopopen.jpg
shifter works, might re do the rails a slightly different shape and out of thicker material. but it works fine the way it is.

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/cummins%20swap/CIMG1397.jpg

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj77/IWILLSTABYOUALOT/cummins%20swap/CIMG1403.jpg

the exhaust is BIG. this is just mock up for now. im sure it will get more bends put in it cause its already up way higher than the stock floor which is kind of a problem.

FORYOURRIDE, thanks