Ok so im doing a SAS on my 00 silverado 1500 and im keeping the stock tcase and using a ford front axle. My truck has the autotrac in it so my question is can i still use the 4H and 4L with my stock front end gone? I know i cant use autotrac anymore but will everything else still function the same?

You need to search there is a lot of info, but no you can't use the autotrac case. With that case the front drive shaft spins all the time and 4wd is engaged by using an actuator in the front axle that the ford solid axle won't have.

Jack

I thought the driveshaft only spins when you are in auto 4x4 not in 2wd....? When you are in 2wd the front driveshaft doesn't spin. I just went out and checked mine and with it in 2wd I can spin the front shaft by hand. That was with it shut off then when it was running..... or does it make a difference when you put it in gear?

I did a sas on my 2001 silverado with an auto trac in it, and it is possible but not desirible.

There is no way you could have spun the drive shaft without the truck moving in a NBS silverado. Reason being there is no axle or hub disconect and it is a live front axle.

Doing a SAS with the auto trac would be pointless, and here is why.

1. You can sell it on ebay for a couple hundred bucks, take that money go to any junkyard in North America and buy a driverdrop NP241 transfer case and actually make money on the deal.

2. The autotrac has a slip yoke front drive shaft and that would have to be changed to a fixed yoke. Last I heard the only company that makes a kit for it is Pro-Comp and I think it might be only for the transfer case in the 2500 which is electric shift but not autotrac.

3. If you do break it the cost to fix/replace/rebuild is really expensive.

4. When you disconnect the wheel speed sensors on the front it is going to trip the codes and if you have the message center on your dash it will keep flashing "service 4x4". The easiest way to stop it is to unplug the autotrac controler behind your driver dash vent. The problem with that is you could no longer shift your case.

So based on my experience you are a step ahead with a drive drop axle. I used a chevy (passenger drop) axle and had to get the much harder to find 89"-91" NP241. Your only requirment is it needs to have a VSS.

If you have any questions specific to it, I recommend finding someone who has done the swap themselves. There are a few guys on the site that have done the sas successfully, and if you are serious and not just a 15 yearold dreamer they would be glad to help you out. Search for the build thread or look at peoples signatures for what vehicles they own if it says silverado sas, then thats who you need to pm.

Good luck and do your best to do it right the first time, it cost me a lot of time and money having to redo crap. The autotrac is not the way to go.

There is no way you could have spun the drive shaft without the truck moving in a NBS silverado. Reason being there is no axle or hub disconect and it is a live front axle.


Ok that makes sense. Mine is a 2000 yukon denali OBS so it still has all the older style front diff parts. I'm not doing a sas but it wouldn't be as bad on mine then because my front shaft only spins when in 4x4.

Oh and sorry for the hijack :grinpimp:

Last late model,2005 i did a sas on i used the autotrac t-c no problems at all,wired up the push button to work, very simple.

Last late model,2005 i did a sas on i used the autotrac t-c no problems at all,wired up the push button to work, very simple.

How did u do it fine did u have to do the slip yoke elim. Couldnt you just keep your hubs plugged in and just shove them under the hood and take the actuator out of the front diff and put that somewhere and trick the truck to thinking it is engaugeing or what is another way to do it?

I did a sas on my 2001 silverado with an auto trac in it, and it is possible but not desirible.

if you are serious and not just a 15 yearold dreamer


Im not a 15 year old dreamer in a 19 year old college student with limited funds but i already bought the ford and chevy dana 44 and machined the knuckle for crossover. by th way im going for machining so i have all the equipment i need and the welders next door so im hoping it will go smoothly but that never works so well just see what happens. O ya why did u need to do the slip yoke? does it reall matter?

No you don't have to do a slip yoke in the front out put or the rear out put.

The question would be what the hell are you doing with the truck? Are you wheeling it? or is it just a show truck or mall crawler? If you read my full post its not just the slip yoke that is the problem it is just simply a waste of time when you can sell the tcase and buy another for less money and more simplicity.

Couldnt you just keep your hubs plugged in and just shove them under the hood and take the actuator out of the front diff and put that somewhere and trick the truck to thinking it is engaugeing or what is another way to do it?

Are you F***** kinding me? What the hell kind of truck to you want to build? Sounds about as half ass as I have ever heard of!

The hubs have a speed sensor in them, that controls the ABS and also tell the autotrac if a wheel is slipping. That is just retarded, like I said all you have to do is unplug the controler to get the lights on your dash to come off or put a dodge axle in it with the speed sensors at the hub. And once again if you actual read my post I stated there is IS NOT a acuator in the front diff.

SEARCH and learn for yourself before you ask stupid questions or make stupid comments. Im not going to waste my time helping someone that is just going to do a half ass job!

Last late model,2005 i did a sas on i used the autotrac t-c no problems at all,wired up the push button to work, very simple.

Was it actually an autotrac or just an electric shift t-case? Not insulting your intelligence but many people confuse the multiple differant t-cases in the NBS silverado's.

If you did do it to a autotrac transfer- case how did you get the lights off the dash due to no signal from front axle hub sensors? Or did you use a newer axle with speed sensors in the hubs?

Just wondering what hoops you had to just through to make it work? I would love to see pictures!

pull the t-case you have and get a driver drop 241 and run a shifter on your floor. far less headaches

Im doing it in my 2007 Hd as we speak. 271 with a cable shifter. simple

pull the t-case you have and get a driver drop 241 and run a shifter on your floor. far less headaches

Im doing it in my 2007 Hd as we speak. 271 with a cable shifter. simple


do you have pics of this? my 263 is about to take a shit, and I want to change over to a 271 or 273. but would rather do the 271 with a shifter on the floor. put a little thought in to it on what to use for the shifter and linkage. what are you using?

All of the electric shift t-c i have seen have the autotrack feature but that is all it is, a feature,part time 4x4 sensed by clutches,as to how much power is applied to the front or rear wheels.
No, i had to leave the lights on, on the dash but im sure with a reprogram on the ecu this could be solved.

Extremeoffroad what did u have to do in order to get your tcase to work fine and be able to still use push button? thanks

I have just got done with my 2002 2500hd lb7 duramax sas with pure performance and a 04 dodge axle. It won't shift into 4 wheel with the stock buttons I think because of the wireing for the front diff ingaugement is disconected. Can anyone help ????

you have to take the stock actuator out of the IFS case and leave it plugged in and tucked up under the motor for the t-case shifter to function correctly.

You can tuck the actuator out of the way or wire it to make it think it is happening.
I cant remember how i did the last one, but i do remember it had something to do with removing the plug and wiring the wires together to make it think the actuator was engaged all the time.

i tried hooking up the old actuator and still the buttons just flashed and went back to 2h.the front diff actuator doesnt do anything but it worked when i took it off. is there a vac line? i can hear the transfer actuator trying to shift but it actuates twice and returnes to 2h. i tried in drive and n for 4h and still same. THANK YOU FOR THE HELP !!!

:flipoff2:DID ANYONE SAY NP241 MANUAL SHIFT????!!!:flipoff2:

i tried hooking up the old actuator and still the buttons just flashed and went back to 2h.the front diff actuator doesnt do anything but it worked when i took it off. is there a vac line? i can hear the transfer actuator trying to shift but it actuates twice and returnes to 2h. i tried in drive and n for 4h and still same. THANK YOU FOR THE HELP !!!

double check and make sure its engaging. i heard soemwhere that they will flash as if it didnt engage, but it is still actually engaging.

:flipoff2:DID ANYONE SAY NP241 MANUAL SHIFT????!!!:flipoff2:


exactly

Is the NP241 the same used on a newer ford SD? I will be doing a swap shortly and was talking to WFO Concepts and he said he has this problem solved using a newer SD t-case. Also, I am also using a 2005 SD axle. Does anyone know what a Ford SD T-case costs? Joshua/ confederate.. your thoughts?

http://www.transfercases.com/order.htm

Not to sure what the Ford tcase is or if it will work but, I wouldn't go with anything other than a np241 for an oem case and if you have the coin go buck wild with a atlas or stak. Driver drop 241 complete cases can be had at any junkyard for about 50 bucks.

I just got done rebuilding my NP241C (passenger side 91") and with the price of the case, slip yoke eliminator, rebuild kit, new chain, parts for custom shifter, and a HAD flange I have 561.67 invested into the case.

If it was a driver drop it would have been less but I have a chevy 60.

I sold my autotrac case on ebay for 475. Total investment less than 100 big ones!!!!:grinpimp:

Do the math, anything else is crazy!!!????:shaking:

:flipoff2:Ohh did I mention that if I smack it on a rock wheeling, it will cost me less than 100 to replace the aluminum case at any junk yard in America! Try doing that with a autotrac:flipoff2:

Not to sure what the Ford tcase is or if it will work but, I wouldn't go with anything other than a np241 for an oem case and if you have the coin go buck wild with a atlas or stak. Driver drop 241 complete cases can be had at any junkyard for about 50 bucks.

I just got done rebuilding my NP241C (passenger side 91") and with the price of the case, slip yoke eliminator, rebuild kit, new chain, parts for custom shifter, and a HAD flange I have 561.67 invested into the case.

If it was a driver drop it would have been less but I have a chevy 60.

I sold my autotrac case on ebay for 475. Total investment less than 100 big ones!!!!:grinpimp:

Do the math, anything else is crazy!!!????:shaking:



:flipoff2:Ohh did I mention that if I smack it on a rock wheeling, it will cost me less than 100 to replace the aluminum case at any junk yard in America! Try doing that with a autotrac:flipoff2:
Alright so u have me wanting the NP241. So what years can i find a drivers side drop and will it bolt up to my 1500. o ya where did u find your shifter and cables and wats the cost on that?

The 263 autotrac will work just fine. It throws no codes. You simply lose auto4wd because auto uses the wheel speed sensors to engage and disengage the front diff. Also if you do not take the actuator out of your diff and place it somewhere (i.e. your engine bay) and keep it plugged in your 4hi and 4lo lights will blink when engaged. Everything looks just fine when in 2wd.

I swapped a 79 f250 HP44 into my 02 GMC Sierra 1500 w/ autotrac case, I did it this way as I wanted to keep the push button and did not want to lose my center console or cut a whole in my floorboard. The only downside is because the tcase yolk is a female spline, you have to be careful you do not over extend your driver side tire allowing it to droop to far and pulling your driveline out. A limiting strap takes care of this.

12,000 miles and going, no issues. If you install hubs in your axle instead of slugs, then you can disengage 4wd. As stated before though, the front driveline does spin all the time so your carrier and shafts will spin all the time. But 44's came in all time 4wd drive trucks in the 70's so I am sure it will be just fine. By the way I drove my truck from Reno, NV to Morehead City, NC this way. No issues.

Thanks..

Josh.. Will the NP241 work with the in cab controls? I was told to use the SD one because the SD trucks have in cab controls for 4wd and they would work the same way on the Dmax. I was really wanting to use the push button 4wd. Thats a great idea usign the np241. I hope it will work for my application. I haven't bought my truck yet.. It will be a 2009 duramax. I wonder if I should just get a 2wd pickup and cinvert it over.. hmm

if you use a 273 which is in s/d's... then yes you can have the push 4wd. the actuator on the 263hd and 273 are the same. will have to make an adapter for the vss. and have an adapter to fit to the alli trans. wfo concepts has been doing this swap or upgrade for a while.

Thanks Mack. i will stick with WFO for my setup.

Yeah I am not aware of the ford tcase at all. For a duramax with an allison that might be the best choice and im also not aware of the trans bolt pattern. And the 241 is manual linkage only. From everything I have heard WFO is very knowledgible. The guy I know and have tlaked to on here with a duramax sas used cage arms and a divorsed case.

As for the 241 in 1500 trucks, I feel its the only logical way to go but that is my opinion. The 241 came in 27 spline (700r4 and 4L60e) and it also came in 32spline.

You specifically need the 27 spline. Also you want to make sure it has the VSS output housing, which im not even sure if the driver drop cases where availible in anything else. There is nothing else to it you use your factory aluminum adapter as I do and everythign is gravy!

For the shifter I just used the arm and rod that was on the tcase (ive got an extra one ifyou need it)

And I attached it to a shifter I made. I used a shifter mount, shifter bushing, and rubber shifter cover from offroaddesign that attached to the tailhousing of my 4L60e . I think it was $28 Then I used an old 7/8" ratchet wrench I had laying around and welded it to the bushing and the wrench is what actually protrudes through the floor.

Here is the deal with my truck.

cromo60 upfront with 3 link and 14" kings arbs front and rear 42" Iroks on beadlocks and a tube bed with the wheelbase shortened. I am actually going to wheel this truck its not even an everyday driver, but it can still be driven on the road.

The 241 is more than capible of handling power and torqe and has been known to do so very well. If ANY aluminum tcase hits a rock it will brake bottom line even the 241 is no exception. A really good skid plate will fix that though. I didn't want to limit my abilities because of a push button tcase, or put smaller limit straps on because of tcase outputs. I didn't spend an ass load of money on a sas to still be limited by factory shit (ie gay push button tcase) or have random parts hanging off my truck!!??

If you are not going to wheel it and you are doing this for looks and to be cool, then by all means keep your factory stuff I am sure it will work as will anythign if you try hard enough, but how well will it fit your purpose? In my oppinion push button is stupid and not worth the time it is just one more thing to break in deep water or mudd. Not to mention how much one of the actuators cost. I am going on my pholisophy of KISS keep it simple stupid. and electric shift, autotrac, crazy output shaft, wiring nightmare is not simple.


Last question the driver drop 241 can be found in any chevy 1500 4x4 after 87 and prior to 99 I think dont quote me though. I am sure some of the more chevy savy guys on here can give you a better anwser.

Now that I have wrote a novel ill shut up!!!

Thanks Mack. i will stick with WFO for my setup.

no problem