I never get to see cool stuff like this -- but I just happened to be driving through the intersection and had my co-worker snap this picture. I hope it isn't one of you guys :flipoff2:

You can't see the cheap 2" strap on the rear of the truck that either broke or came unhooked... He also had a transmisison that I don't think was tied down on the deck of the trailer. The wrecker was in the process of lifting the Trooper (??) up so the trailer could be pulled forward. It had traffic backed up for quite a ways and for quite some time. Makes the extra minute I spend tossing a chain and binder on the truck seem well worth it :D

http://ihsto.org/old/pirate/towwreck.JPG

If you think a load coming off a trailer is due solely to the type of tiedown being used, then yes please stick to your chains. Your lack of sense makes me strongly doubt your ability to comprehend the rachet mechanism or the hooks that actually need to be hooked into something. :flipoff2:

For the record I use either / both straps and chains, just depends on what I'm securing and how I'm doing it.

If you think a load coming off a trailer is due solely to the type of tiedown being used, then yes please stick to your chains. Your lack of sense makes me strongly doubt your ability to comprehend the rachet mechanism or the hooks that actually need to be hooked into something. :flipoff2:

For the record I use either / both straps and chains, just depends on what I'm securing and how I'm doing it.

So it was a Pirate guy!

chain or strap can do the job when kept in good condition and used properly.

;)

If you think a load coming off a trailer is due solely to the type of tiedown being used, then yes please stick to your chains. Your lack of sense makes me strongly doubt your ability to comprehend the rachet mechanism or the hooks that actually need to be hooked into something. :flipoff2:

For the record I use either / both straps and chains, just depends on what I'm securing and how I'm doing it.
I think he's more referring to the INSUFFICIENT tie-down this person did. Either in not enough strap, or using a cargo type strap without positive locking (for something like a vehicle, I don't like those), or poor tie down points that failed.

Lucky for this guy its just a towing bill, a bashed up tailgate and some serious embarrassment.

So it was a Pirate guy!

Huh? That one went over my head...



I think he's more referring to the INSUFFICIENT tie-down this person did. Either in not enough strap, or using a cargo type strap without positive locking (for something like a vehicle, I don't like those), or poor tie down points that failed.

Lucky for this guy its just a towing bill, a bashed up tailgate and some serious embarrassment.

Well he said nothing about the quality of the tie down job, and specifically mentioned that it was a strap that failed, and in several ways stated that chains were better. It made my rachet strap loving e-penis get defensive. :flipoff2:

I've seen some of thoes cam-lock style straps in a car tiedown size and I understand the principal on how they lock, but I still don't think I'd trust one either!

Too many variables here to blame any one thing, But I use crossed chains in the front and 2 straps in the rear with a safety chain. never had anything move on me.

Why didn't the guy driving just pull it off the road, he truck is already screwed up.

Huh? That one went over my head...





Well he said nothing about the quality of the tie down job, and specifically mentioned that it was a strap that failed, and in several ways stated that chains were better. It made my rachet strap loving e-penis get defensive. :flipoff2:

I've seen some of thoes cam-lock style straps in a car tiedown size and I understand the principal on how they lock, but I still don't think I'd trust one either!


You got all butt hurt, so I figured it must have been you... :flipoff2:

The guy in the picture was using the ultra cheap 2" yellow cargo straps that you can buy at Harbor Freight. As we passed the scene I couild only see the remains of one strap hanging off the back of the truck.

My point in posting this was to not use cheap crap that will let you down.

Ok this brings up a good point. Which yellow straps are good straps? I have a couple 2" ratchet straps I pick up a while back and saw the same straps at Home Depot. They have 10,000 stenciled into them, working load 3,333.(FWIW would not trust a strap from Harbor freight for holding a truck on a trailer)

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/400/73/734209fc-dede-426a-8a65-d9fef29de3e0_400.jpg

The disadvantage to these straps is they have a J hook design vs a locking snap hook. So a good bounce could unhook the strap.

I use a pair of chans crossed on the front. Pull up, count the links so they are even, hook it on, and back up to "squat" the front suspension. Then one chain w/binder on the rear, up and over the trailer hitch (if equipped) or rear frame crossmember and down to the other side, about 45* angle. I use a twist binder in order to get the most tension on the chain.

When I tie down a vehicle, it is usually almost at the bump stops. Definitely not going anywhere.

Ok this brings up a good point. Which yellow straps are good straps? I have a couple 2" ratchet straps I pick up a while back and saw the same straps at Home Depot. They have 10,000 stenciled into them, working load 3,333.(FWIW would not trust a strap from Harbor freight for holding a truck on a trailer)

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/400/73/734209fc-dede-426a-8a65-d9fef29de3e0_400.jpg

The disadvantage to these straps is they have a J hook design vs a locking snap hook. So a good bounce could unhook the strap.
If they are tight, and stay tight they should never "bounce off", but that said I still prefer strap built for the purpose with a locking clasp, like the ones used on tow trucks or MAC's stuff. Even if (for whatever reason) it gets a little loose, the chances of it falling OFF are slim. Now I use the above for tying down CARGO all the time, and I have had some come unhooked if something shifts and the strap gets loose. Luckily I can usually see it in the mirror when that happens. Not the straps fault, my fault for not not strapping it well.

I use a pair of chans crossed on the front. Pull up, count the links so they are even, hook it on, and back up to "squat" the front suspension. Then one chain w/binder on the rear, up and over the trailer hitch (if equipped) or rear frame crossmember and down to the other side, about 45* angle. I use a twist binder in order to get the most tension on the chain.

When I tie down a vehicle, it is usually almost at the bump stops. Definitely not going anywhere.


:rolleyes:, pleas don't let this thread go there... in one little post you have brought the good old "chains vs straps" argument AND the "body vs. axle" argument up.... lets let it die. This thread is about USE QUALITY EQUIPMENT AND ENOUGH OF IT for strapping down a rig. If the original picture guy only used ONE cheap 2" style strap in the back, and say wrapped it around the axle and then back or whatever, he could easily overload the working load of that single strap, and using that method he could of also easily ran the strap over a bad edge, not had it tight enough, let the load shift and unhook.... bottom line, he didn't do enough of the "correct method" and now has a tow bill, a body shop bill, egg on his face and probably a traffic ticket :laughing:

all i do is hook my winch cable to the front of the trailer and lock the parking brake. so far so good.:smokin:

all i do is hook my winch cable to the front of the trailer and lock the parking brake. so far so good.:smokin:

Hope you're kidding. :shaking:

Hope you're kidding. :shaking:

no i have actually flipped my truck end over end with the trailer still hooked and my rig never moved.:D

no i have actually flipped my truck end over end with the trailer still hooked and my rig never moved.:D
I find that hard to believe. You are saying your winch hooked to the front of the trailer set parking brake & suck down the winch & it stayed on in a roll over? whats holding down the rear? your parking brake?

My point in posting this was to not use cheap crap that will let you down.

Actually another point that you should have made is:

USE 1 STRAP PER CORNER, A TOTAL OF 4 STRAPS. IF YOU USE JUST ONE STRAP PER AXLE THEN I HOPE THIS SOON HAPPENS TO YOU.

Be safe, 4 straps per rig, 1 per corner, make sure the straps are not running parrallel to eachother and your fine.

*not saying the guy didn't use cheap straps, but 4 of them would have been much better*

I find that hard to believe. You are saying your winch hooked to the front of the trailer set parking brake & suck down the winch & it stayed on in a roll over? whats holding down the rear? your parking brake?

All you have to do is spray a little 3M Contact spray on the deck of the trailer were your tires sit and your rig will never go anywhere.

















































































:flipoff2: Now I really hope that you can figure out that he, along with me, we are just JOKING!

For 2" straps I just use teh J-hook style.

If you cross them and get them down tight there won't be enough movement for them to bounce and come off.

But, I also use 4 since those 10,000lb straps only have a working load limit of 3,333lbs. Not just because the DOT says I have to.

But, I also use 4 since those 10,000lb straps only have a working load limit of 3,333lbs. Not just because the DOT says I have to.

Amazing that the DOT and common sense actually worked together isn't it. :laughing: One of the few things that the DOT got right.

Actually another point that you should have made is:

USE 1 STRAP PER CORNER, A TOTAL OF 4 STRAPS. IF YOU USE JUST ONE STRAP PER AXLE THEN I HOPE THIS SOON HAPPENS TO YOU.



True -- if all you have is cheap crap, by using enough of it you could and would be safe.

I really didn't post this to turn into a straps vs. chains/cross tie vs. not/body vs. axles etc....

Just strap it well and use stuff that won't break or come undone on you....

Edit... Just strap it well and use stuff that won't break or come undone on you....

Or carry two floor jacks so you don't back up traffic:grinpimp::grinpimp:

Or carry two floor jacks so you don't back up traffic:grinpimp::grinpimp:


:laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

I find that hard to believe. You are saying your winch hooked to the front of the trailer set parking brake & suck down the winch & it stayed on in a roll over? whats holding down the rear? your parking brake?

ya my parking brake held the rig on the trailer. my tow rig and trailer actually did turn over and landed back on its wheels and i just kept going my rig never moved:p

I've been driving a semi for 10 years, and I have seen some people try to do some stupid shit when it comes to tying down a load. Those yellow straps are sufficient to hold down a car, but you have to use protection against rubbing and cutting. You also have to make sure you have the loose end
(extra length) secured, or it will get under a tire and fail spectacularly. A little common sense goes a long way. As for chains there are problems here too, over center binders should not be used when hooking to the body or frame of a vehicle. The suspension of the vehicle on the trailer will still bounce slacking the chain and causing the binder to come unlatched when the suspension comes back up. One load securement device is really not better than another, as long as its used properly, unless your rig weighs more than 10 or 15 thousand pounds. I normally use chains and ratcheting binders on anything with wheels in a four point configuration. Straps on things without. Straps can be used, but use protection, if you go from the trailer around the axle and back to the trailer. Put something between the axle and the strap to protect the strap from cutting, an old piece of a mudflap works well.This is the biggest problem I have seen in strap failures.

I always go overkill on tie downs.
That said, one of my mechanics and his dad used to run a crawler loader up on a lowboy trailer (tilt top), run the teeth of the loader bucket under the lip of the channel across the front of the trailer, set the parking brake and hauled it.
And this is on the Ozark Super highways around Branson Missouri!
No chains, no binders, no straps, NOTHING !!
Crazy!

Ok this brings up a good point. Which yellow straps are good straps? I have a couple 2" ratchet straps I pick up a while back and saw the same straps at Home Depot. They have 10,000 stenciled into them, working load 3,333.(FWIW would not trust a strap from Harbor freight for holding a truck on a trailer)

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/400/73/734209fc-dede-426a-8a65-d9fef29de3e0_400.jpg

The disadvantage to these straps is they have a J hook design vs a locking snap hook. So a good bounce could unhook the strap.
these straps are usualy about $15 or less so why not use 4 on a vehicle. if your hooking J hook to J hook you can inter lock both of them and they are a bit tricky to get apart even with no load.

if/when i get a trailer i think i may use two chains the correct length in the rear and a single chain with a binder in the front.

if/when i get a trailer i think i may use two chains the correct length in the rear and a single chain with a binder in the front.
This is kinda what I do and have always done. I use two chains on the rear and once hooked I drive forward as far as the chains let me or till the the back squats. Then I hook two of the 10,000lb (3333) straps to the front and crank them tight. Once tight I will put the jeep in Nuetral to pull everything tight, then lock the jeep down in place. Last thing I do as a safety is I have a hook on the front of the trailer and I will run a loose winch line to it and then run and loose chain to the rear. I make sure the loose connections on the chain and winch have a positive locking method so it cannot fall off.

I always go overkill on tie downs.
That said, one of my mechanics and his dad used to run a crawler loader up on a lowboy trailer (tilt top), run the teeth of the loader bucket under the lip of the channel across the front of the trailer, set the parking brake and hauled it.
And this is on the Ozark Super highways around Branson Missouri!
No chains, no binders, no straps, NOTHING !!
Crazy!

We came up on a rig like that down by Van Buren, but the dozer flipped off the trailer and was laying in the ditch. :shaking:

Thanks for the plug, Rusty - it's always good to hear people appreciating quality stuff! Check out the second video down on our page here - the guy pulled a 180 on the Grapevine on his way to the races. Great story! :laughing:

Mac's video page (http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/tricks/?r=Pirate4x4forumJJS)

Jeremy from Mac's

I watched those the other day.:smokin: I like the one at Moab. Learned that you need to 2 wraps on the spool before making it tight. My Scout weights in at 3 tons and I will use grade 70 chain to tie the axles down. Straight in the rear and crossed in front. Then use the ratchet strap to pull the body down.:smokin:

over center binders should not be used when hooking to the body or frame of a vehicle. The suspension of the vehicle on the trailer will still bounce slacking the chain and causing the binder to come unlatched when the suspension comes back up.

Every year millions of vehicles are transported by rail with load binders. If they were so unstable something else would be used. If you are going to use one you need to be safe and mouse the handle (and hooks if that is the style you are using) so it doesn't come open.

Ok this brings up a good point. Which yellow straps are good straps? I have a couple 2" ratchet straps I pick up a while back and saw the same straps at Home Depot. They have 10,000 stenciled into them, working load 3,333.(FWIW would not trust a strap from Harbor freight for holding a truck on a trailer)

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/400/73/734209fc-dede-426a-8a65-d9fef29de3e0_400.jpg

The disadvantage to these straps is they have a J hook design vs a locking snap hook. So a good bounce could unhook the strap.

This is what I use w/ the J-hooks, but I run the strap through the hook then connect through the ratchet, so there is no way it can come apart unless the actual j-hook breaks. Ive never had a problem with this and its holding down a 7k lbs truck, also I use 4 straps/ratchets in a cris-cross pattern, 2 up front and 2 in back back connected to the axle.