Hi, Im fitting 406 axles on my 110, got the back on today for 1st fitting but It
looks like there's a problem with the trailing arms, the axle is sitting with the diff facing down about 4 or 5 degrees, if I replace the mog mounting brackets
with the defender ones will this sort it out or if I crank the trailing arms will the help or will I do both? have a look at the pisc and let me know.
I've attached a photo bucket link too.

http://s897.photobucket.com/albums/ac176/fearathas/406%20Brakes/

Your better off looking up frankenrover on the rover board. There should be plenty of archived pics of it. The rear axle is very easy to setup vrs the front.

Thanks for that, got the rear on in about 2 hours, the front is goin on next week some time I've a feelin its going to be a bitch:shaking:

Maybe I don't understand your post but... it seems to me that you still need upper control arms before you can know anything about what your pinion angle is going to be or how to correct it.
My hunch, based on the way the coils are twisting on their perches, is that your lower trailing arms (the ones in the picture) are just a 'smidge too long thus locating your axle too far to the rear and pointing you pinion downward. If this is the case one option would be to move the axle mount tabs rearward since it looks like moving your frame mount is not really an option.
One other thing to consider is that when you put the trucks weight back on the axle it is gonna move some as the springs compress.
Good luck, you seem to be going about this the right way.

Maybe I don't understand your post but... it seems to me that you still need upper control arms before you can know anything about what your pinion angle is going to be or how to correct it.
My hunch, based on the way the coils are twisting on their perches, is that your lower trailing arms (the ones in the picture) are just a 'smidge too long thus locating your axle too far to the rear and pointing you pinion downward. If this is the case one option would be to move the axle mount tabs rearward since it looks like moving your frame mount is not really an option.
One other thing to consider is that when you put the trucks weight back on the axle it is gonna move some as the springs compress.
Good luck, you seem to be going about this the right way.

The pinion angle is set by the portal boxes, they have to be up and down. Nothing you can do about it.

Maybe I don't understand your post but... it seems to me that you still need upper control arms before you can know anything about what your pinion angle is going to be or how to correct it.
My hunch, based on the way the coils are twisting on their perches, is that your lower trailing arms (the ones in the picture) are just a 'smidge too long thus locating your axle too far to the rear and pointing you pinion downward. If this is the case one option would be to move the axle mount tabs rearward since it looks like moving your frame mount is not really an option.
One other thing to consider is that when you put the trucks weight back on the axle it is gonna move some as the springs compress.
Good luck, you seem to be going about this the right way.

The upper links haven't been put on yet cos I cant decide on a pannard rod setup or a 4 point set up, the axle still has the bracket on the back and I made the top of the axle to take the 4 point set up (leavin my options open) I'm leaning more to the 4 point set up the more I read up on it.
And yes the trailing arm are 2 and a half inches too long but as I said I just got impatient and bolted everything together:D
Cheers lads

The pinion angle is set by the portal boxes, they have to be up and down. Nothing you can do about it.

Sort of...

Your pinion angle is set by your link bars. Setting pinion angle in the at rest position is pretty simple. Change in pinion angle during articulation can also be set by adjusting the parallelism and relative lengths of your link bars and their mounts in the longitudinal/vertical plain. As a general rule it should be set so that your pinion angle matches your output shaft angle (Ideally at all articulated positions but most importantly at rest); And in a perfect world your portal boxes should be perfectly vertical as well... of course things don't always work out perfectly but if it's pretty close I think it will be fine.

If for some reason you need your pinion to point at a different angle than stock you only need to cut the axle tubes and rotate them before re-welding.

But, like I said, I think this setup will be fine.

Sort of...

Your pinion angle is set by your link bars. Setting pinion angle in the at rest position is pretty simple. Change in pinion angle during articulation can also be set by adjusting the parallelism and relative lengths of your link bars and their mounts in the longitudinal/vertical plain. As a general rule it should be set so that your pinion angle matches your output shaft angle (Ideally at all articulated positions but most importantly at rest); And in a perfect world your portal boxes should be perfectly vertical as well... of course things don't always work out perfectly but if it's pretty close I think it will be fine.

If for some reason you need your pinion to point at a different angle than stock you only need to cut the axle tubes and rotate them before re-welding.

But, like I said, I think this setup will be fine.


No sort of about it. Your going to go through all that trouble of portals and then NOT get the full lift from them?? Yes, you can cut and turn every diff, but that fab work is beyond many that can easily weld suspension tabs on.
Considering the original question, which was pretty basic, I wasn't sure the OP had that skill level...........

No sort of about it. Your going to go through all that trouble of portals and then NOT get the full lift from them?? Yes, you can cut and turn every diff, but that fab work is beyond many that can easily weld suspension tabs on.
Considering the original question, which was pretty basic, I wasn't sure the OP had that skill level...........

I have the front cut moved and rotated to suit the defender side.
Fabrication, welding and contract toolmaking is the business I'm in.
This is my 1st major project of this kind and having been looking at this and the Landrover forum for the last year or so I reckon you guys would have answers for me.
I pretty much have the technical stuff right so far, angles of diff/pinion, castor etc. just lookin for opinions on top mounts and trailingarms etc.
my 2 pinion conversions are also made up and ready to fit.

So as for skill level the final result will tell the tale:flipoff2:

Got at it for a couple of hours today :D
Trailing arms sorted to right size portals hanging straight I'll be making the top trailing arms and brackets tomorrow.Jobs a gud un :)
Pics to follow

I have the front cut moved and rotated to suit the defender side.
Fabrication, welding and contract toolmaking is the business I'm in.
This is my 1st major project of this kind and having been looking at this and the Landrover forum for the last year or so I reckon you guys would have answers for me.
I pretty much have the technical stuff right so far, angles of diff/pinion, castor etc. just lookin for opinions on top mounts and trailingarms etc.
my 2 pinion conversions are also made up and ready to fit.

So as for skill level the final result will tell the tale:flipoff2:

Well, then I don't get your original question either. You can cut and turn diff's but you can't measure 2 different brackets and see if one will fix your "problem"??? :flipoff2:

Yea it was a stupid question looking back:shaking: i'll try and keep them down to a minimum