I've done a little research, thought I'd ask the experts if there is anything else I should look for on these. I already know about the quadratrac issues, this one clunks pretty bad. TH400 slips. Motor is strong. Not sure on the size yet, will check tonight when I look at it again and probably buy it. Other than that it's rust free, straight and drives ok.

I'm not worried about the quadratrac problems, if I buy it I'm putting in a t18/d20 combo. Or at the very least rebuilding the 400 and using a different tcase.

I plan on a mild lift and making it a family cruiser, mild trail rig.

Are there any problem areas I should check? Maybe areas where the frame or body are prone to cracking?

I'm picking it up for $650, hard to beat for a running registered smog exempt vehicle in Kalifornia.

just because it's a 1975 does NOT mean its smog exempt
is it a 2 or 4 door

just because it's a 1975 does NOT mean its smog exempt
is it a 2 or 4 door

How do you figure? Here's the page I got the info off of. I've never had to smog a 75.

http://www.dmv.ca.gov/vr/smogfaq.htm

I guess I have to make sure it's not a 75 model manufactured in 76?

Almost forgot, it's a 4 door.

On a 75 waggy you have very little downside actually. Pre-80 trucks use a steel gas tank, and a skid plate. The skid plate doesn't trap mud very badly. The post-80 trucks use a plastic gas tank in a steel 'coffin'. The coffin holds mud really badly and can cause the frame rail to rust out at the front end of the driver's side rear spring.

When bringing old trucks back to life - the steel tank ones can have a rusty fuel tank - which leads to a month of headaches. But if this one is a runner, then you have little to worry about there.

The front driveshaft is short on V8 FSJ's - so keep track of it with any lift or other modifications.

IMHO they are the best starting point for a family wheeler. Smaller (outside) than similar 5-6 passenger V8 rigs of the era (blazers/broncos/ramchargers). Tighter turning radius than the little jeeps (and built out of MUCH better parts). Longer flexier leaves than the little jeeps. The go down the highway really well. On stock springs they ride like grandma's buick. (so if you are going big - consider SOA rather than buying springs - but plan accordingly for steering and driveshaft stuff).

Check the steering box area and the front crossmember. I have had one early truck where the crossmember welds were broken and the frame moved around a bunch when steering. Easy enough to fix - just something to be aware of.

If you are going to wheel it you will beat the rockers to a pulp. Either build rub rails below the rockers and deal with the rub, or cut the rocker off, replace the rocker with 3-1/2" flat plate and 1" angle iron (can add picture if necessary) and then build rub rails up closer to the body.

If it's really nice - keep it as a driver (I have QT's and TH400's in stock) and get another cheapy to wheel! (can I interest you in a low-dollar FSJ Cherokee?)

On a 75 waggy you have very little downside actually. Pre-80 trucks use a steel gas tank, and a skid plate. The skid plate doesn't o if you are going big - consider SOA rather than buying springs - but plan accordingly for steering and driven a low-dollar FSJ Cherokee?)

Thanks for the info. I should have a few pics tonight. I doubt I'll find anything that would make me not want it. I already went over it pretty carefully.

I was thinking SOA, but might end up being taller than I wanted. It's going to be very mild wheeling. 33" tires or so.

Thanks for the info. I should have a few pics tonight. I doubt I'll find anything that would make me not want it. I already went over it pretty carefully.

I was thinking SOA, but might end up being taller than I wanted. It's going to be very mild wheeling. 33" tires or so.

Go get signed up at IFSJA.

EDIT: Also, chances are a 1975 sold unit will be a 1974 built unit.

Back on the subject of lift and tires:
The D44's are fine and dandy for family wheeling on 35's. 35's will keep your pumpkins off of stuff a little better too.

I have only driven one waggy with aftermarket lift springs that rides anywhere close to how well a stocker does. And although you might not think so - you really DO care how it rides on the road.

This is my daily driver / work truck.
http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg150/rustywagoneers_com/DrRear1.jpg?t=1268172839

I drive it to Tuttle Creek, wheel it fairly hard, and drive it back home regularly.
It is 2-1/2" body lift (square steel tubing, not pucks) and 3" of springs. Not sure what the front springs are from - but they are worn out enough that they ride pretty well. So we have about 5 inches of total lift, Q-78-15's (about 35) and the body is trimmed to the woodgrain line. That is some really cheap wheeling.

http://www.ifsja.org/tech/figures/db.html#engines

So 360 or 401?

RustyWagoneersdotcom- (on a side note) I'd be interested in seeing that fender trim job a little closer if it's not too much trouble. I'd like to graft in some W/T flares soon, but I'm rubbing pretty bad on the front corners of all fenders w/ 6" and 33x12.50's now.

I agree with the above about the ride quality with lifted springs. Mine SUCKS. I've got 6" leafs and 4" drop pitman arm. If I could do it over, I'd go SOA with new springs. The arched spring stuffs fine, but does not allow for much droop at all and I've got tires in the air quite a bit.

...

RustyWagoneersdotcom- (on a side note) I'd be interested in seeing that fender trim job a little closer if it's not too much trouble. ....

I pm'ed a guy on IFSJA some fairly detailed stuff about how I did it recently. I will find that and get it to you.

Sorry I didn't get around to updating this thread.

I bought it, $500. Drove it home.

It's a 360 w/4bbl, most of the issues were due to stupid stuff. Trans was slipping because it was 2 quarts low. Now it shifts like it should, needs seals badly. There was a large vacuum line disconnected from the carb, so the idle was pretty high. That was a large part of the clunk. There is still a clunk, but it feels pretty reasonable. It'll probably be good for a while. QT chain is within spec, about 1/4 play.

It has low range, but I haven't tried it yet. I need to drive it to work all next week. I'll screw with the transfer case after that. It has warn hubs, and they are unlocked. Haven't gotten around to locking them to see if it has a part time kit or if it's in emergency mode.

The engine has pretty good power, although I don't really know what a 360 is supposed to feel like. Some valve train noise, 1 valve is a little louder than I like.

Factory weld is cracked by the steering box. I cleaned it up tonight and re-aligned it tonight, weld it tomorrow. I'm going to fab up a steering box support and beef that area up a bit.

This rig will be built on the cheap. DIY SOA and Shackle flip on stock springs. Not sure about which way I'm going to go on crossover steering yet. Still have to research the cheapest good option. Maybe I'll just break down and buy a kit for that.

Oh, and I got the tailgate window working. Bad safety switch.

Anyways, I'm pretty happy with it.

Here's some pics.

http://ericclaussen.com/jeep4.jpg
http://ericclaussen.com/jeep5.jpg
http://ericclaussen.com/jeep6.jpg
http://ericclaussen.com/jeep8.jpg
http://ericclaussen.com/jeep9.jpg
http://ericclaussen.com/jeep10.jpg
http://ericclaussen.com/jeep11.jpg
http://ericclaussen.com/jeep12.jpg
http://ericclaussen.com/jeep14.jpg
http://ericclaussen.com/jeep16.jpg