: Conversion U-Joints


babybluebeast
03-11-2010, 08:07 PM
Does anyone make a 1310 to 1410 conversion U-Joint?

trkklr77
03-11-2010, 08:18 PM
holy shit, i dont know but i doubt it would flex for shit.

babybluebeast
03-11-2010, 08:22 PM
holy shit, i dont know but i doubt it would flex for shit.

the 1310 and 1410 actually have more flex than the 1330 and 1350. the 1310 will handle 30 degrees and 1410 will do 37 degrees while the other two will only do 20 degrees each. they make offset conversion joints for most combos that can be found easily, but having trouble locating a 1310 to 1410 combo.

Corey Young
03-11-2010, 10:20 PM
the 1310 and 1410 actually have more flex than the 1330 and 1350.

I thought it was the yokes that limited the angle, not the joint?

trkklr77
03-11-2010, 10:36 PM
I thought it was the yokes that limited the angle, not the joint?

thats what i am thinking, the 1410 part is going to be so big and bulky that it will contact the 1310 yoke and the 1310 part is going to be so tight it will hit the inside of the other half.

boellis87
03-12-2010, 06:50 AM
I'm in the same boat. I'm needing a Saginaw S44 (basically a 1344 I think) to 1410, but I haven't been able to find a bigger jump than from 1350 to 1410. I think what I'm going to have to do is find a driveshaft with 1350 yokes and use conversion joints on both ends, one going bigger and one going smaller.

You might try this approach. Eventually I'll try to have a shaft built, but I'm just trying to get my project back on the road.

babybluebeast
03-12-2010, 07:11 AM
I'm in the same boat. I'm needing a Saginaw S44 (basically a 1344 I think) to 1410, but I haven't been able to find a bigger jump than from 1350 to 1410. I think what I'm going to have to do is find a driveshaft with 1350 yokes and use conversion joints on both ends, one going bigger and one going smaller.

You might try this approach. Eventually I'll try to have a shaft built, but I'm just trying to get my project back on the road.

thats where i am at as well. All parts for SAS are collected and some parts even mounted, but the UJoint is my last think that i am missing.

babybluebeast
03-12-2010, 07:14 AM
thats what i am thinking, the 1410 part is going to be so big and bulky that it will contact the 1310 yoke and the 1310 part is going to be so tight it will hit the inside of the other half.

i checked, it will clear EASILY since the 1410 is so wide.

guidolyons
03-12-2010, 07:35 AM
I haven't been able to find a bigger jump than from 1350 to 1410. I think what I'm going to have to do is find a driveshaft with 1350 yokes and use conversion joints on both ends, one going bigger and one going smaller.

You might try this approach. Eventually I'll try to have a shaft built, but I'm just trying to get my project back on the road.

^^^ try this or get a proper driveshaft built. But with 1310 on one side and 1410 on the other, I hope you have a truckload of spare 1310's on hand:laughing:
Can you upgrade the 1310 yoke (transfercase or axle?) to a 1350 or 1410 series to match? New yokes are ~$100 depending on application. Check with Jess @ High Angle Driveline, he has quite a selection.

I've never seen a 1310-1410 conversion joint (not listed in the Neapco catalog) but, if you find a cheap/free 1350 series driveshaft that you could use temporarily, this could get you mobile. Buy extra 1310-1350 and 1350-1410 conversion u-joints so you have them on hand when you break one.

trkklr77
03-12-2010, 07:54 AM
i checked, it will clear EASILY since the 1410 is so wide.

ok cool.

GMCTruxrule
03-12-2010, 02:05 PM
Every think that maybe 1410 is overkill for what you are building?

I run a 1310/50 conversion joint on my rear for now, I hate it because the joint is do damn expensive. Eventually, I will get HAD to build me a new shaft but in the meantime, it hasn't broke on me yet.

babybluebeast
03-12-2010, 06:56 PM
Every think that maybe 1410 is overkill for what you are building?

I run a 1310/50 conversion joint on my rear for now, I hate it because the joint is do damn expensive. Eventually, I will get HAD to build me a new shaft but in the meantime, it hasn't broke on me yet.

anything worth doing is worth overdoing...... I am going junkyard shopping for a 1350 jointed 1 ton shaft tomorrow as a temp solution until i can get custom shaft built and do a SLE.

boellis87
03-12-2010, 09:37 PM
I'm in the middle of an SAS right now too. I'm using the AAM 11.5 rear (huge, I know, but it was cheap and already had discs) so I'm stuck with the 1410 yoke. 1350 would be more than enough for my truck but you gotta work with what ya got. I'll be hitting the junkyards myself before too long hoping to find one that'll be really close to the right length. Eventually I'm gonna do a sye on my transfer case so I will have to have a shaft built but until then I'm taking the easy way out. Good luck in your search.

heavychevy335
03-13-2010, 12:37 PM
you can get one as i have one on my truck but it was hard to find and out of all the places in my area i only found one small family owend specilty shop called lima clutch and joint that had it and even they had to special order it

chevypower
03-14-2010, 01:35 PM
id say get the shaft done right do not use a conversion joint, the first and last time i ran one i ended up with two blown drive shafts stuck 2 miles back in the bush :grinpimp:

REDDMANIAC
03-14-2010, 02:38 PM
Id bank on the aam axle yoke being the same as the 14 bolt or dana 70 spline yokes.

babybluebeast
03-14-2010, 07:06 PM
I'm in the middle of an SAS right now too. I'm using the AAM 11.5 rear (huge, I know, but it was cheap and already had discs) so I'm stuck with the 1410 yoke. 1350 would be more than enough for my truck but you gotta work with what ya got. I'll be hitting the junkyards myself before too long hoping to find one that'll be really close to the right length. Eventually I'm gonna do a sye on my transfer case so I will have to have a shaft built but until then I'm taking the easy way out. Good luck in your search.

Well, looks like i am just going to have a new yoke added to my exististing driveshaft to run either a 1350 to 1410 conversion joint, or possibly just a 1410 joint. I have to take the shaft to the shop. they said they can put a 1350 yoke on it but not sure about a 1410.

boellis87
03-14-2010, 08:50 PM
Id bank on the aam axle yoke being the same as the 14 bolt or dana 70 spline yokes.

Not sure if you're meaning that the yokes off of these axles would be usable on the AAM or if you're meaning that they are the same size. I shoulda checked if they could be swapped in before I had my gear change done, don't really want to swap it now. I don't know if you've ever seen the pinion on the 11.5 but it's HUGE! Doesn't mean the diameter and threads at the yoke end isn't the same as those two, but I doubt it. It's definitely a 1410 and not a 1350 though.

Well, looks like i am just going to have a new yoke added to my exististing driveshaft to run either a 1350 to 1410 conversion joint, or possibly just a 1410 joint. I have to take the shaft to the shop. they said they can put a 1350 yoke on it but not sure about a 1410.

This is my plan B. Cheap junkyard shaft wouldn't be as spendy as a shop swapping out the yoke I don't think, but I'll be super lucky if I find one that's the correct length or really close.

Didn't see what axle you were using. What's it going into? Just curious...

REDDMANIAC
03-14-2010, 11:43 PM
boellis87
yeah, I meant check if either will fit.

boellis87
03-15-2010, 04:21 PM
Gotcha. I wish I had thought to check. Guess it's still an option, but I'll probably stick with waiting til I get a custom shaft made and try the band-aid approach for now.

babybluebeast
03-16-2010, 06:26 PM
purchased a driveshaft out of a truck identical to mine. dropping it off at the driveline ship to get the yoke changed. Shop quoted me $150 for the work.

horsepower hillbilly
04-08-2011, 01:10 PM
Neapco is the only one making the conversion u-joint that I know of. part # 2-1435 usually about $25 bucks