I've been thinking about relocating my axle 6" forward and wondered about my steering set up as I'd like to maintain mechanical linkage. I wanted to see if anyone had flipped their steering arm (on a dana 60) as well as their pitman arm in order to keep the tie rod in line with the axle moved forward.

I've searched and haven't had much luck finding info, so any help anyone can offer would be great. Anyone see any huge problems in future? Any advice would be appreciated... Thanks.

there is a 14" difference in hole location when fliping either the pitman or steering arms.

while it would work in theorey, it wont with only moving the axle 6" and leaving the box in the stock location.

search up the astro van steering box, it swings opposite so it would work with the flipped axle arm, but i am not sure if it is a inside or outside the frame box.

I moved mine forward 6" it let me lower the truck and still run my 44s. look in my sig I did it with leafs tho....

there is a 14" difference in hole location when flipping either the pitman or steering arms.

while it would work in theorey, it wont with only moving the axle 6" and leaving the box in the stock location.

search up the astro van steering box, it swings opposite so it would work with the flipped axle arm, but i am not sure if it is a inside or outside the frame box.

Gotcha... hmm it's back to the drawing board...

I'm running leafs too but am trying to figure out steering... Kitmat do you have any pics of your steering setup with the axle bumped forward? I looked through your thread but found no steering pics...

I found that an 87 full size van has a reverse steer box that bolts on in the factory location as well. the problem is going to be that you need to move it back on the frame to get the arm in the right spot.

you might beable to make it work with the reversed box, it wont be 90* but with out bolting it up and trying it can realy say how well it will or wont work.

I looked and looked but the best pic I can find is this poser shot during the build
http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee307/kitimatdude/DSC00031.jpg
In short you don't need to move your steering box or use a reversed aerostar one for 6" forward. I am running a high steer arm on the passenger side for crossover steering and about a 3" drop arm.

I looked and looked but the best pic I can find is this poser shot during the build
In short you don't need to move your steering box or use a reversed aerostar one for 6" forward. I am running a high steer arm on the passenger side for crossover steering and about a 3" drop arm.

Won't this mess up steering geometry? I may not fully understand but I thought that you wanted your tie rod perpendicular to your steering arm and pitman. What am I missing?

Won't this mess up steering geometry? I may not fully understand but I thought that you wanted your tie rod perpendicular to your steering arm and pitman. What am I missing?

no. simply lentghening the rod will correct for that. the knuckle/arm doesnt know what dirrection it is being pushed, only that it is being pushed x amount.

it may cause clearance issues, binding issues and stroke/rate issues. stuff you only you will be able to deal with once you are into the swap and can actualy get parts installed .

I took a few pics today... this is not at all flexed. I need to add a leaf or 2 to my springs as they have settled and are negative.
from drivers side: (large block in upper right corner is 3" solid rubber bumpstop)
http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee307/kitimatdude/DSCF1626.jpg
http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee307/kitimatdude/DSCF1628.jpg
Pass side from front:
http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee307/kitimatdude/DSCF1630.jpg
Pass side from above:
http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee307/kitimatdude/DSCF1631.jpg
Everything fits and clears (just barely) it all clears flexed out also. If I go any further forward I am going to go full hydro (which I want to do anyway....)
Hope this helps!