Okay...Hello to standard D44 people...I did some searching and couldn't find anyone talking about the affects a wristed arm has on the driveline angle when flexed max'd out. Maybe it has no affect or even helps. But, that is what my question is.

Specifically, are people that have the wristed arm (And actually using it) experiencing an increase/no change/decrease in u-joint wear/other issues. If you reply, tell me if you're a standard/reverse rotation.

Last, I have a 175 mig welder...I can do this myself, Yes? Looks straight forward...

Peace:usa: :rasta:

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my buddy runs it in his eb and he has stock axles he seems to have deffinetly gained twist out of it and he does not seem to have any problems

I have a low pinion 44 and a wristed arm. The driveshaft and radius arm travel the same arc. The diff u-joint angle doesn't really change at all. There is also no need for a long travel slip yoke. I have a CV at the t-case, but you may or may not need one depending on how much lift you have.

BTW- I don't actually wheel my bronco, but I drove up a ramp once, so I know. :p

http://home.earthlink.net/~mattsara/bb/dsangle.jpg

Originally posted by Nobody
I have a low pinion 44 and a wristed arm. The driveshaft and radius arm travel the same arc. The diff u-joint angle doesn't really change at all. There is also no need for a long travel slip yoke. I have a CV at the t-case, but you may or may not need one depending on how much lift you have.

BTW- I don't actually wheel my bronco, but I drove up a ramp once, so I know. :p

http://home.earthlink.net/~mattsara/bb/dsangle.jpg


I can verify the wheeling thing, notice the waxed paint job ;)

If its 'pinnable' and you use urathane bushings at the C bushings, it'll stiffen the front up for street drivin(big fricken swaybar). With the pin out and rubber bushings at the frame side = MEGA travel. And like 'Nobody' said, no driveline issues (unless ya wrist the wrong side). :D

I have a std rotation D44 and a wristed arm. No increased u-joint ware or any other associated problems. Just to it! Your 175 might be a little light for this project (mine was :(). I used a good ol' Lincoln Stick for the job. Worked great!

It fine, don't the arm on the driver side, and all will be good.

ANyway, is your 175 welder up the task? dunno, do you know how to weld?
I have a miller 175 and burns through the ones i sell like crazy! a 175 amp can deffently do it

No front u-joint problems with a HP 44 or HP 60 and a wristed arm.

Ever done it with Standard Rotation? Or with an extended arm? Still have yet to find someone do this with an extended arm.

Nobody has a standard rotation and his works fine.

As far as the extended with wristing. That's been talked about to death on some of the EB lists. It is totally unnessary to wrist an extend arm if all you want is flex. That is, if all your doing is rockcrawling the longer arm will just get in the way and offer no more articulatioin than a standard arm. If however you will be doing a lot of hardcore rockcrawling AND want to run the 1000 then wristing an extended arm might be of some help, but pin it in BAJA.

I don't want to start the extended -V- wristed thing again but they both work better or worse in different situations. I think the pinnable writed arm is a better overall solution to the torque rod effect of the coiled Ford front end. Or any coiled front end for that matter. It's very inexpensive and easier to install and proven safe. You get 100% stock road handling by slipping in a pin and incredible articulation by taking it out.
The extended arms work well but you don't get the articulation of a wristed arm and require a bit more work to install.

Both have their following, but the return on the work to wrist an extended arm isn't worth it.

Yes, I agree...No debate. Seen it...heard it...Don't go there.

The deal is I am not choosing one or the other. I have the extended arms already...bought it 2-3 years ago befor I had a welder. Do I want more flex...yes. Am I flexing like the wristed guys...no. I have urathane c-bushings and 9005's...Laughing begins here. But I took the shocks off and flexed it up. Still virtually no difference. All that is left are the c-bushings, Track bar mount (Which is not binding) and the springs...WH 5.5. Oh and the driveline and drag link...but they are not the problem. What C-bushings are people using out there?

Anyway, why not use both the extend arm and then wrist it too. Think that would be truly a waste of time? It is cheap to do. And, yes I can weld okay. My rear flexes out of this world. Another thought is the rear is so soft (WH 5.5) that it takes all the pressure off the front and thus the front doesn't need to flex. But I have driven it up on the driver's side front and I eventually lift a rear and the front is still not moving like it should. Don't get me wrong. The front does flex, but nothing like the wristed guys are getting. Any other thoughts? I'll dig up some pics of me flexed and attach...

To get flex out of a radius arm front end(non-wristed), ya want RUBBER 'C' bushings.
Ya do ya think the car guys run so much urathane in there set-ups?? CAUSE ITS STIFF.
I run urathane 'C' bushings so it will handle better on the street, then pull the pin on the wristed arm for full fex.
Extended and wristed arms? I hit my arms enough as it is, no need to lengthen them(unless your into that). If one is wristed, I would say shorter(stock) is better, unless your runnin HUGE lift.

Not dropping out like I would like. This is about my max flex in the front. Will Rubber bushings really gain that much...Inches?

http://home.attbi.com/~go2camp/wsb/media/117529/graphic_pub.jpg