First off, I have to credit Bobaki for mentioning this idea in the Toy forum.

From what I've learned from him, petroworks cases feature what they call a "split H" style shifter, which allows you to shift from 4-lo up one notch into neutral - then slide over to the 2/4 rail and choose 2wd - then go back over to the hi/lo rail and shift from N into Low. Correct? I'm hoping for input from users of this transfer case on this one.

Anyway, Bobaki mentioned that he'd done this to a Toy case and it worked. Which nearly gave me a heart attack - it gives you the 2 LO option without spending $200 on a twin stick if I'm correct. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to contact him for further info... Hoping he chimes in here.

Here are the images I've managed to find on the net of the shift rails of a Toy T-Case. From what I understand I have to grind/open-up the notch on the right rail in the below picture to allow for this - correct? Or no?

http://www.rcrc4x4.com/ProductReviews/Marlin4_7_install/thumbnails/marlin47_116.jpg

Any help on this is *greatly* appreciated. One more reason to put in Toy cases - right? Since you'd be able to get RWD low without spending $200.

Ok Ill take a stab on the sami cases there are three detent balls one on the outside section of one shift rod then in between the rods is another ball then on the opposite side of the last rod another ball we remove the center ball which allows the shifter to
manipulate the rods without being subject to stop on the center ball Make sence. I noticed in yu r pic there are indentations in the shift rod is there a detent ball between them that could posably be removed????? spring,ball,rod,ball,rod,ball,spring Ill see if I can dig up some pics and send them to maybe a little clearer hope this helps

OOps My bad toy case and yes i do believe that is the rod to grind I have seen that pic before let me dig it up

here is everything I found for getting the levers to work independent of each other still havent found the pic of exactly where to grind(Here are the basic steps: Drain the oil from the transfer case, remove the shifter boot in the vehicle which will allow you to unbolt the Hi-Low, 2wd-4wd shifter from the top of the transfer case, both front and rear drive shafts, any cross members, mounts, speedometer cable and any electrical wiring that may be attached to the transfer case. Now unbolt the transfer case from the transmission and the transfer case is then easy to slide off the back of the transmission. Next remove the hex cap (plug) from the left hand side of the case. After this cap has been removed you can remove the ball and spring, which the cap was retaining. Now to remove the locking pin you will need to slide the high-low shifting fork forward in the case. To accomplish this roll pin that attaches the fork to the shaft will need to be removed using a punch (nail, Philips screwdriver, round stock, etc.) to drive out the pin. Now that the pin is out of the way, slide the fork forward. Tip the transfer case on its side and the locking pin will fall out. At this point reverse the steps you have done and reinstall the transfer case into the vehicle. . Now that you’re done, the right side shift lever engages 2WD or 4WD,while the left side shift lever lets you choose High range, Neutral, or Low range)

Uhhh... Rockrat?

I'm trying to do this NOT using a twin stick. So the instructions for Jay K's twin-stick install article you just quoted off of 4x4wire aren't going to help. ;)

I know how to remove the interlock pill (which is what you just detailed) to let the shift rods work indepently of each other. What Bobaki described was "opening up" the 2/4 rail so that you could access RWD-Lo with a SINGLE STICK :grinpimp:

...And I gurantee that if I get this working, take a couple pics of the modifications, and post them up in the Toy section, it's gonna be the next big thing in the toy world. I mean, free access to RWD LO? COME AWN!

Now I just need bobaki or someone else who is familiar with the mods petroworks does to the sammy cases to happen along, show me/help me figure out what needs done, and take all the credit for figuring out the coolest Toy case mod short of dual cases or crawler gears. ;)

Bobaki has done this and said it works with his toy case, but I don't think he has a clear way to describe to idiotic old me in a way that I'l understand, and doesn't wat to waste the time trying. But I've been pouring over the t-case teardown & crawler gear install article on the river city rock crawlers site, and I thin I have a rough idea of what he did now, I just need him or someone else to tell me if I'm on the right track... :(

Why don't we ask Bobaki to use his ten jillion dollar digital camera and take some freaking pictures for gods sake...Come awwwn old man get off the couch and show us the light!

heres a pic of the shift rails(top mount)http://www.marlincrawler.com/images/prod/topshiftkit_b.jpg

what I'm thinking(I havent started mine yet) is if on the 2wd 4wd rail you would make a 2nd center ball indention so there were 2 pairs of indentions. By doing this, it would allow you to move the 2wd/4wd rail back into 2wd. or you could put a 2nd indention(instead) on the High/N/Low rail in the N position in the center ball area


By doing that(I have it on paper) you would shift down to 4wd-high(<--each rail position), center the shifter between the the 2 rails so it catches both, shift up into 2wd-N(<--each rail position) then pull the shifter to the right and up into 2wd-low(<--each rail position)

http://tellico.off-road.com/wwwthreads_uploads/915407-topshiftkit_b.bmp

The shifting with the locater also modified would then be
2wd-high(down to)
4wd-high(center shifter, up to)
4wd-N(still center, up to)
2wn-N(shifter to R, up to)
2wd-Low

From 2wd low you could then pull the shifter down(just a lil to slide between locaters) to the left and switch between 2 and 4wd but if in 4wd low, but to get out of low range you would have to go back to 2wd low center the shifter and down to 2wd-N, down to 4wd-high, then shifter to the left up to 2wd-high


make sence .. I tried to draw a picture to post .. but truthfully I suck at drawing, and espically on the computer.

If this isnt the way he did it, sorry .. its what I had on paper and seems it would work(I have spare transfers to try it on :D

Inmine thinking either way twin or single that detent ball has to come out. So thats why the long explanation 2nd that is from Kerry wittigs twin instal which I read somewhere, and everything I have read I know someone else has done this and thats what they did + modify the fork I just cant find the pic:(

Originally posted by Rockrat
Inmine thinking either way twin or single that detent ball has to come out.

I'm going to grind my rails tonight just to see, but if it works like I have it on paper, there is no need to remove the center ball

I TOOK PICS ,SENT THEM ,SENT MY NUMBER ,WAITED BY THE PHONE,.......:flipoff2:

SWAYBOY I GOT A LIGHT I'LL SHOW YA,might blind you...........:D

867-5309:flipoff2:

bobaki, is that about what you did, where I have it out lined, or something different?

Originally posted by bobaki
I TOOK PICS ,SENT THEM ,SENT MY NUMBER ,WAITED BY THE PHONE,.......:flipoff2:
Sorry :emb: - I don't use that email address for my day to day one, and only check it about once a week. :rolleyes:

Okay, here's the original picture I posted at the top of the thread. These are un-modified Toy case shift rails:
http://home.off-road.com/~mithrandir/2lo_mods/brandon_forks.jpg

And here's the one Bobaki sent me with his modified ones:
http://home.off-road.com/~mithrandir/2lo_mods/bobaki_forks.jpg

Here is where I THINK Bobaki ground. Please say if I'm right or wrong on this, Bobaki:
http://home.off-road.com/~mithrandir/2lo_mods/grind_forks.jpg

thats the place,thanks for the call.........should work fine...:D

Dougo,give a call(I e/mailed number) although I think TNTOY is going to shed some light on the matter.......we talked..........:D

Okay. DougO - you're a little off on what Bobaki did:

1. You remove the interlock pill. Won't work if you don't.
2. You don't grind an extra detent in the shift rail.
3. The shifter doesn't move both forks at the same time. You move one or the other.

First pic is one I photo-chopped together of how the forks will look after the grinding is done as nessecary. I did this because Bobaki's pic with a third fork in the mix above can be a bit confusing - epsecially since the ground fork (the one with the red trinagle I painted in to show what he ground off) is *not in it's final position.

Here's how everything will look when you put the roll pins in:
http://home.off-road.com/~mithrandir/2lo_mods/ground_chop.jpg

These two pictures should fill everyone in the rest of the way. Once again, Bob, let me know if I'm off on the way the shifter works. I forgot to ask you if the case still retains the stock J-shift pattern, or if you can only shift it H-style now:

that should cover it,........................:D

hmm i'll have my tcases out this week. i may just do this. it was pretty cool on the grs2 i had. good idea. wy hasn't this ever come up before?

Poppy ,what about that call.......................:D

Originally posted by poppycock
why hasn't this ever come up before? I have no idea. I'm just glad it came up right before I pulled my case to put in some 4.7 gears. ;)

I forgot to ask you if the case still retains the stock J-shift pattern, or if you can only shift it H-style now?

H................................................. .............................:D

bob i'm calling you tommorow. definatly. :D

well, for what it's worth....back in 94 or so (whenever the grs2 first came out) I was able to access 2wdLO by simply removing the center locking ball. Didn't have to grind the fork even. It required a feel to push both rails at the same time but I had it down. FYI

:confused: you have to move both rails different directions at the same time,me thinks you have to have more than a special touch..........:D

Originally posted by TNToy
case. But I may check that out before I go grinding away, thanks.

Here is the artical on Izook.com that talks about 2lo, with just removing the centerball
http://www.izook.com/tech/2wdlow/2wdlow.htm

Thanks for the help Bob, I did this last night and it rocks. Free 2WD Low. :grinpimp: Kickass.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=959828
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=959832
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=959868

most happy I could help...............:D

Originally posted by bobaki
:confused: you have to move both rails different directions at the same time,me thinks you have to have more than a special touch..........:D

If you are refering to the zuk 2 low only the ball is requierd to be removed thats all i did to mine;)

Rockrat, thats interesting but I don't think that I'm gona weld my forks quite yet. I do think I'll take another look however.....thanks...............:D

Originally posted by bobaki
Rockrat, thats interesting but I don't think that I'm gona weld my forks quite yet. I do think I'll take another look however.....thanks...............:D

Not sure I understand the welding of the forks, that is if your being seriuos, I was with the sami case all that is needed is the center detent ball removed for 2 lo

meaning both my sammy and toy are modified .........and some kidding........:D