I do not have a F toy but something quite similar in setup.
We built a F Toy knockoff buggy a couple years ago as a weekend wheeler and once a year racer in Guams once a year off road endurance race. Short course, with jumps and sweepers three hours long.

My wife normally races the car and the only prep we do is take off the 39.5 boggers and stick on some 35" tires with instructions to her "dont break the car"

This year she will be out of town and my race car is down so I plan to drive the FToy knock off in the race.

We dont necessarily need 4wd to be competitive so I was thinking of gutting the front end of the diff, axle shafts and front drive shaft to save weight and also removing the doubler and going single case again to save weight.

I know the car cant really jump the doubles like the short course buggys can but I want to drive it harder and faster than i should.

Do you guys who race your formulas in higher speed events think it will make any real difference doing this.

Do the axle shafts provide real support for the front axle and help prevent bending the tubes? or do they just float in the housing?

I may be expecting too much from a solid axled leaf sprung buggy but the question has been burning in my mind.

Thanks

Mike

fairly common practice in jeepspeed racing. 2wd beam for the easier stuff. you could save a bit of weight and a slight bend wouldnt be of concern. i say do it

I thing gutting the axle would be a good idea. Don't think taking out the doubler would save enough weight to make it worthwhile.

Gut it! Ive raced ours on an 80 mile course. Due to driveshaft concerns, we unlocked hubs, and ran 2wd 1/3 of the way into the race. 4wd was nice since I could just pin it in turns, and drift the entire way. 2wd wanted to break the back end loose fast, so it took a little more finesse. Loosing front end weight would help from trying to nose dive.

I do think ours is faster, with less drag, in 2wd than 4wd. We're planning to race this year again, and gutting the front would save you easy 150# with 3rd and birfs. Heck loose the locking hubs, and use some of the covers that came on the 2wd runners.

Id tend to agree with Airride, loosing the dual case is more work than its worth. Only really talking 40 pounds. Swaping in a 2wd trans, no tcase, now that might be worth it, if swapping your trans is real easy.

And you are correct, the shafts offer zero support to the housing. The 3rd does though. So bolt a plate over the hole in the housing.

How about a 3" DOM front beam "housing" with some 3rd gen (IFS) prerunner outers and some custom inner knuckles to carry the balljoints? :grinpimp:

Yes, it would be balljoints instead of trunnion bearings, but they're located farther apart, so you'd have a lot less shear on each individaul BJ.

Gut it! Ive raced ours on an 80 mile course. Due to driveshaft concerns, we unlocked hubs, and ran 2wd 1/3 of the way into the race. 4wd was nice since I could just pin it in turns, and drift the entire way. 2wd wanted to break the back end loose fast, so it took a little more finesse. Loosing front end weight would help from trying to nose dive.

I do think ours is faster, with less drag, in 2wd than 4wd. We're planning to race this year again, and gutting the front would save you easy 150# with 3rd and birfs. Heck loose the locking hubs, and use some of the covers that came on the 2wd runners.

Id tend to agree with Airride, loosing the dual case is more work than its worth. Only really talking 40 pounds. Swaping in a 2wd trans, no tcase, now that might be worth it, if swapping your trans is real easy.

And you are correct, the shafts offer zero support to the housing. The 3rd does though. So bolt a plate over the hole in the housing.

Thanks for chiming in Brian. Should I run my beautiful Diamond housing or just throw on a stock housing that I can beat the crap out of. I love racing, but we only have one race a year the rest of the time were wheeling. The Diamond is soo beef it makes it the best choice for pounding, but I would never forgive myself If I pulled an endo and landed on one of the front wheels and broke or bent the knuckle ball. (never mind I just answered my own question) stock empty housing.

How about a 3" DOM front beam "housing" with some 3rd gen (IFS) prerunner outers and some custom inner knuckles to carry the balljoints? :grinpimp:

Yes, it would be balljoints instead of trunnion bearings, but they're located farther apart, so you'd have a lot less shear on each individaul BJ.

That would be sick. Believe me I've even thought about welding tabs on the frame that would hold the long travel upper and lower long travel A arms for the race and unbolt them after the event.

The Diamond is soo beef it makes it the best choice for pounding, but I would never forgive myself If I pulled an endo and landed on one of the front wheels and broke or bent the knuckle ball. (never mind I just answered my own question) stock empty housing.

You answered your own question! :laughing:
If you can get empty stock housings, grab one for a single race. The Diamond would give you a better option to use for multiple times!!

That would be sick. Believe me I've even thought about welding tabs on the frame that would hold the long travel upper and lower long travel A arms for the race and unbolt them after the event.

That would be sick!!!!!!!!

That would be sick. Believe me I've even thought about welding tabs on the frame that would hold the long travel upper and lower long travel A arms for the race and unbolt them after the event.

Funny I thought about the same thing..... :eek:


The diamond will make it more likely you'll finish. I know we've jumped ours horribly bad, with no issues. Like long enough air time to think of, and look through the wheel well, think "oh wow, we're high!" and still time to say "sorry dude" to the victim in the passenger seat! I would also say our axle will keep you from folding it up through the open diff hole.

The diamond will make it more likely you'll finish. I know we've jumped ours horribly bad, with no issues. Like long enough air time to think of, and look through the wheel well, think "oh wow, we're high!" and still time to say "sorry dude" to the victim in the passenger seat! I would also say our axle will keep you from folding it up through the open diff hole.

They also hold up to running into trees at 30+ mph :flipoff2:

They also hold up to running into trees at 30+ mph :flipoff2:

HA HA ha! This is true. Good thing when the rig isnt yours! :eek:

Steering arm, rod ends, and center pins tend to suffer under those conditions though!