Anyone know a good way to remove the ball joints from a 73 suburban 3/4 ton front 4wd dana 44 knuckle? I have the knuckle off the axle and Im about to just start wailing on it with the 3 lb hammer but I dont think it will be very easy to get the lower one off that way. Any suggestions?

Uhh, a press...

Air hammer or a hammer and punch, don't miss and mushroom next to the balljoint.

you can rent a ball joint tool from most parts atores or buy it for less than 100bucks from HF. Very simple to use, just use an impact gun not a wrench. If that's not an option, any shop can change them for you for about $60

i just use a hammer and punch.

got her dialed, puttin everything back together not but unsure of what to torque the spindle nuts down to. anyone know?

i just use a hammer and punch.

Thats manly!

Buy the tool and it will pay for its self your first side job.

no shit.

knock the snapring off and hit it with a hammer. the upper can be a pain but a long punch or peice of pipe will solve that.

reinstalling can be a bit trickier because of the stems but its easy enough to get done.





the inner nut just goes down hand tight or till the is a bit of resistance on the bearings.

the outer nut is 50-75ftlbs.

on many vehicles the proper way to do it is by measuring the drag on the bearings with a tool according to manufacture specs but here is how i do wheel bearings.. after everything is cleaned, well packed and installed, i snug the nut up to seat them and rotate the hub as i do it.. then i check the lock/thrust washer behind the nut.. i like to be able to move the washer up, down or side to side with a little resistance and no slop. i use a flat tip screw driver and do not stuff it in far enough to damage the bearing cage, just far enough to be able to grab and move the washer by twisting the screw driver. if it does not move it is too tight.. if it is too loose the play in the bearings will be exaggerated more when the wheel and tire is on.. both can cause other problems down the road.. then i hold the inner nut from moving and tighten the outer and re check the washer to make sure it still moves.. some have a pinch nut with allen bolt, some have lock ring with tabs over the castle nut for a cotter pin.. some have folding tabs on the lock washer that you bend down to lock the inner nut in place.. some even have that single use nut where you peen the lip into the spindle groove.. no matter which ones i have ran across i adjust them all so i can just move the lock washer behind the nut.. i have done cars, trucks and even trailers with no failures that way..

how do you hold the inner nut from moving

if you assemble it the way you are suposed to the inner nut will not budge and is not an issue.

by installing the lock washer first you completely negate the locking ability of the lock washer.

i think on that one it goes nut, lock washer, nut so you are correct.. i am not.. the first nut is the thrust on the bearing not the washer like i was thinking of the other style..

wtf?

werent we talking about ball joints?

oh, spindle nut torque.. time to learn how to adjust wheel bearings...

a press.or a vise with a big ass hammer and punch.just make sure your hitting them out the right way.watch for the flanges on both upper and lower.