Just wondering who has done a ls swap on a rover, what major issues I will encounter, and if they did a transmission and t-case swap as well. I have heard of a tim cooper in oregon, but dont know how to contact him. any input will help.
thanks,
david

Have not installed any late model GM engines in a Rover but have run a few 350's Carbed and Edelbrock injection using the LT 95 trans and an adaptor. Plan on putting a Vortec motor in my LWB in the next year and am currently hoarding parts for it.

Timm has not lived in Oregon for over 9 years now.

Just wondering who has done a ls swap on a rover, what major issues I will encounter, and if they did a transmission and t-case swap as well. I have heard of a tim cooper in oregon, but dont know how to contact him. any input will help.
thanks,
david

Most ones I have seen have used a "domestic" gearbox as the Rover boxes are not strong enough and the Rover transfer case (either the LT230 or the Series box). It can be done in around the same length as stock and provides a strong drivetrain.

I agree the R380/Lt77 and Automatic would implode but the LT95 & LT85 were the strongest trans Rover made and can handle the power.

If you say so. I wouldn't put an LS3 in front of one.

http://lrrforums.com/showthread.php?t=15721

This has one of the new gen chevy vortech's in it.

If you say so. I wouldn't put an LS3 in front of one.

Don't be rediculous. That was designed by LR to eat up 450 HP without issue.

the LT95 is quite tough. Beiing a 4speed is the only disadvantage to me. They had the 101" and military use in mind when it was designed.
"95" is for the distance between main- and layshaft, measured in millimetres. That makes for a 1st gear which is big enough to darken the sun for you, if you hold it towards the sky :)
Well, if speaking Rover-boxed, the LT95 is the strongest for me.
"The better is the enemy of the good", so there will be even stronger ones.

You don't say what LR you're putting it, which makes a difference.

I take it from the Timm Cooper reference that this is a Series truck? If so, is it an 88 or a 109? That will have an impact on transmission choice. In an 88, you need to seriously watch length. On a 109 you will have more choices.

For an 88, since you aren't a purist, I would skip the 40 year old LT95 and 30 year old Spanish gearboxes altogether and go for something equally antiquated but more readily available domestically, like the venerable NP435. If you ask very nicely Mr. Goss may let you know whether he still has or makes the adapter for the NP435 to the Series T-case. With a Roverdrive on that, provided it will stand up to the LS3 (?), you will have a good set up and length.

With a 109 more options include, say an NV4500 and a large number of transfer cases.

Here's some good info that may help: http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/index.html#engine

If it's a more modern LR with computers and such, I have no info of value.

In a Series truck, you will need to do at least the following:

Go to power steering. You need a bigger radiator and you need to move the steering link outside the chassis rail, so PS is the logical move. Scout 2 Saginaw (there's a good vid by Peter Knowles in NS on YouTube showing this conversion) or RR P38 are both good choices.

Modify/Fabricate new engine and gearbox mounts. Depending on what route you go, you may need new propshafts. If you go with an LT230 or other full time 4wd tcase, you may want to get a 2wd hi conversion kit (Ashcrofts or Toddco) but since you are going to have to change axles in any event - no way Rover axles will handle the LS3 power for long. If it's a 109 and a Sals, you may be fine.

Bulkhead and trans tunnel mods. You need to chop about the BH if you intend to keep the recessed grill. Don't forget a good fan shroud. This is often overlooked in engine swaps and will haunt you if omitted.

Obviously, you will need new throttle linkages, fuel pump etc. Youll have to fiddle ancillaries for space but there's room in there. Batery(ies) move to under the seat box most likely.

Brakes? The drums work well when set up properly, but with 70mph at your command, they may be insufficient for your liking. Maybe just a servo boost?

Last time I spoke to Timm he was still in Paso Robles CA, but that was some time ago...

Good luck with everything.

just go diesel if you are doing all of that work... its not a race car you are building...

just go diesel if you are doing all of that work... its not a race car you are building...

Why not?

Like this.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n1/bellocchi/LandroverGenIIIchev.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n1/bellocchi/AA-50-9000-SeriesTcase.jpg

The adapter can do series I,II, IIA & III.
It works with any of the D300 style adapters used with GM transmissions or 23 or 29 spline transmissions with the circular 6 bolt pattern. Think Jeep or late model chrysler/dodge applications. NV4500, NV3550, AX-15........

We should have these adapters up on the site soon.

www.polyperformance.com

The adapter can do series I,II, IIA & III.

Cool. But if you want to make money, you need to make one to adapt to an LT230.....

It is in the works.

Hopefully less than 6 months out. :smokin:

put me down for one !!!!!


Jeff

I would recommend a 700r4 and atlas tcase behind the LS3

Ed

Crusty, make sure you keep us informed on this.

I ran a Vortec V6 in my 88" for about 12 years. It was bolted to a NV4500/dana300/Dana44's. My newest is a coiler 88" with a LS1/4L60E/Dana300/CurrieHP9's. Bolting a LSx in front of a rover driveline is doable (as seen by others in here) although longivity is questionable. I have a LT85 in my 84' 110 behind a ex-MOD V8. It is a good 4-speed box even if it is a bit clumsy. Despite it's size I'd be reluctant to put too much faith into it when bolted to a +350hp/+300tq engine because of the aluminum case if nothing else. Depending on your right foot it might last a while in a LSx application. The rest of the driveline would really be put to the test! No matter what path you take the conversion is a lot of work! It isn't merely a couple of new motor mounts. It is also quite costly no matter how cheap you think you can get by doing it.

Despite it's size I'd be reluctant to put too much faith into it when bolted to a +350hp/+300tq engine because of the aluminum case if nothing else.

I'm curious about this as I ran M-22s behind multi-carbed SBCs for years in bracket racers and the last thing I was worried about breaking (and in fact, one of the few things I didn't break) was the transmission case. Even with no rubber in the drivetrain mounts.

I had enough engine to strip eight teeth off a ring gear during a missed shift, but never broke anything in the trans (bent all the intake valves and broke out by 0.001 seconds as well).

I also ran M-21 and M-22 4 speeds in a multitude of SBC and BBC cars back in the day. While many held up depending on tires, gearing and application I also saw some carnage including in my own '73 Z28 motivated by a 500hp LT1 350. Sometimes the gear teeth or a mainshaft failed but just as often the countershaft whallowed out the case and everything grenaded. It was oftened blamed on the case distorting under high torque situations.

I also ran M-21 and M-22 4 speeds in a multitude of SBC and BBC cars back in the day. While many held up depending on tires, gearing and application I also saw some carnage including in my own '73 Z28 motivated by a 500hp LT1 350. Sometimes the gear teeth or a mainshaft failed but just as often the countershaft whallowed out the case and everything grenaded. It was oftened blamed on the case distorting under high torque situations.

Wow!

I never dyno'ed any of my engines, but with 30" wrinkle-wall Mickey Thompson slicks, it was a solid nine second (1/8 mile-LOL) car that would lift the wheels if you weren't paying close attention (5.13:1 gears). With the 4.88s, it was less scary (after I took the eight teeth off the ring gear of the 5.13).

In the summer of '81, I went through five engines and three rear axles. Eventually, I got smart and started racing motorcycles:D Much less expensive and far more fun.

Yeah, drag racing is a very expensive hobby. I quit the track because I couldn't compete with the shops and sponsored racers. Did too many illegal street races until I finally decided I'd been too lucky for too long. It would pull about a 12 second 1/4 mile in street trim. None of my friends would drive it more than once. The exception was an older (to me at the time) crazy blonde woman in her mid thirties. She absolutely loved driving that car and smoking the tires from third gear. The M22 was a brute with the straight cut gears. That really helped keeping it together since the gears were only trying to push away from each other on the vertical and not also trying to walk away on the horizonal because of the helical pattern of the M21. After I lost third gear in my M21 in that Z28 on an interstate on ramp I sold it to a navy pilot and got away from racing altogether. Mine was dyno'd to see just what I had going down to the pavement. It idled at +1200 rpms pulling about 7 inches of vacuum. I went through a clutch about every 3 months as a daily driver. I swear the fuel level would drop parked and shut down. It was a harsh vehicle to drive especially in heavy traffic. My left leg still aches from that heavy clutch pedal.

This project was on the back burner for a while. The owner went and had the truck painted first. This is a 109" wheelbase right hand drive version. It needs to be able to drive down the freeway everyday, and do some light wheeling.
Any new info since last year at this time???