Dan at ruffstuff made me a 9" housing and a toy housing..

Stock mog housing =74.5 lbs.

Ruffstuffwith 9" truss and 5/8 flanges=82 lbs

Mog 3rd=110 lbs

Alum 9"spool=60lbs.


Called Braink and he cut me some 5/8 flanges.

I have some kingpin redesign work going on and will update after i have tested and proven it to work better. MAy take a year..

Toy housing to come latter Arb and High pinion flipped.

Nice!!:smokin:
I like the 'rounded' housing.

Subscribed. Looking good!

Do the end plates (Branik) have any kind of special seals cut into them? I think the factory Mog end plates have a small oil seal or lip cut into them but I'm not sure how important that is to replicate with an aftermarket plate?

I was thinking about just cutting off the factory plates and having them opened up to fit my 3.5" axletubes (Spidertrax) but buying a new set from Branik might be just as cheap by the time I'm done.

Did you install the bracing yourself? Is there a source for an alignment bar for these aftermarket housings? The more I read about trusses, etc the more I want to make sure I don't tweak the housing by welding on it too much without a bar running through it....


-G
:usa:

Fabricated knuckles would be sweet :smokin:

Subscribed. Looking good!

Do the end plates (Branik) have any kind of special seals cut into them? I think the factory Mog end plates have a small oil seal or lip cut into them but I'm not sure how important that is to replicate with an aftermarket plate?

I was thinking about just cutting off the factory plates and having them opened up to fit my 3.5" axletubes (Spidertrax) but buying a new set from Branik might be just as cheap by the time I'm done.

Did you install the bracing yourself? Is there a source for an alignment bar for these aftermarket housings? The more I read about trusses, etc the more I want to make sure I don't tweak the housing by welding on it too much without a bar running through it....


-G
:usa:

Thanks
I welded on the truss and it only moved one side 1/32 i just left it.
But i have really messed up housings in the past... Learned the hard way..
We just made are alighnment pucks that fit some solid barstock..

On the recess for the inner knucked to flange- I just turned down the knuckle to the diameter of the tube. I was not into the brass bushing on the knuckle. I fidgured it was cheeper/ easier to just get flat plates cut that press fit on the 3.5 tubes..

Fabricated knuckles would be sweet :smokin:

We have considered it but I have another fix for now in the works..
(short term)

The hope (long term) is to not need OEM parts since they are nolonger made.

Markus... come awn down to the casa. Just got these made for personal reasons. 4130 Chromoly. :D

WOW are those billet?

What they run?$$

FREEKING NICE?

Not for sale... prototyping buddy.

Like i said slow.

Update i finally started the conversion.

9" rear.

Anyone want the unimog stuff cheep in the foresale for 300$$ with shafts/3rds and pinion conversions.

I weighed my outters loaded with brakes andn MSI boxes. 130LBS

So my final axle 9" looks to be
outters 260 Both sides
3rd 60
housing 82
ram 12
inner shafts 30 lbs


444 lbs for a portal axle.:smokin: front should be lighter.

Here is the rig they are goin in. steping down to 4:10 gears also.

Like i said slow.

Update i finally started the conversion.

9" rear.

Anyone want the unimog stuff cheep in the foresale for 300$$ with shafts/3rds and pinion conversions.

I'd take a 3rd off your hands unless you don't want to split it up.

I'd take a 3rd off your hands unless you don't want to split it up.

Mabey latter if i cannnot sell the package.

Mabey latter if i cannnot sell the package.

OK, let me know. BTW, that was just inner shafts, right no CV's.

Update
All done.
I have 4.10's in the housing and man it gets to 100 fast but that is all.
So i have some 3.07's comming to try.

Really very happy with the toyota front.

Best suprise is how much faster it in the woops from loosing axle weight.

"4.10's in the housing":eek:
seriously? PLUS the portal reduction?
I cannot fathom that.
The LS motor must be cranking pretty hard.
I'm in the middle of changing my R&P to 2.75
for a final drive in the 5.38 area

"4.10's in the housing":eek:
seriously? PLUS the portal reduction?
I cannot fathom that.
The LS motor must be cranking pretty hard.
I'm in the middle of changing my R&P to 2.75
for a final drive in the 5.38 area



8.73 effective rear axle ratio!!!!! :eek:

Yep, I'd guess that baby gets off the line in a hurry!!!!!.....(and bangs the rev limiter in all forward gears in about 10 seconds flat).

I'd love to see video.



:usa:

Sad part is 100 feels slow now days...

Bomber fab. AKA Randy runs in 8.2 ratio and does 117 mph.

I get the best of both worlds. No torque twist since all gearing is in axles
and great power/speed.

Awesome rig. That thing is going to be my new background. What wheels are you running. Trying to research for a potential portal swap and this rig is amazing.

Awesome rig. That thing is going to be my new background. What wheels are you running. Trying to research for a potential portal swap and this rig is amazing.

Thanks

Wheels are Tube Works. Raceline now has the same rim. 7" BS.

Mark

Where are you getting the 3.07's for the 9?. Do you think 2.50's would be good with an overdrive tranny? Although I don't know that make that high of a ratio for a yota 8''. I have seen the 2.50's on ebay, and maybe currie E.

Love your rig man :smokin:, low stance, gobs of uptravel and portals:D dope!

Where are you getting the 3.07's for the 9?. Do you think 2.50's would be good with an overdrive tranny? Although I don't know that make that high of a ratio for a yota 8''. I have seen the 2.50's on ebay, and maybe currie E.

Love your rig man :smokin:, low stance, gobs of uptravel and portals:D dope!

Thanks

With a OD tranny i'd go with mid's 3's like 3.54 or 3.73 if you have a 205 2:1 t case. Assuming 39's?

If you have a dana 300 or 3:1 T case i'd go closer to 3.0 gears.

I got the 3.07's from a Nascar Team that was not using that ratio anymore.
It is a special ratio made for Them and if i break it i'm done. Unless i find another.

But it matches the Toyota 3.07 3rd that i have. Only ratios I can get to match between Toy/Ford are 4.10 and 3.07.

dont want to croud up your thread but ls1/th350/roctrac 241/ steering 404 front, non steering mog nine rear, 42's. Just wanting to plan for the future with the same tranny you have and a stak tcase. So I'm just trying to round up the ring and pinion before i cant find any. thx.


Thanks



With a OD tranny i'd go with mid's 3's like 3.54 or 3.73 if you have a 205 2:1 t case. Assuming 39's?

If you have a dana 300 or 3:1 T case i'd go closer to 3.0 gears.

I got the 3.07's from a Nascar Team that was not using that ratio anymore.
It is a special ratio made for Them and if i break it i'm done. Unless i find another.

But it matches the Toyota 3.07 3rd that i have. Only ratios I can get to match between Toy/Ford are 4.10 and 3.07.

Use this gear ratio calulator to get a better picture of how you will run..

I use it all the time.

http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

There are Ford gears at 2.47 and 2.50 as well...

I think they are only available used but I see sets for cheap money on eBay all the time.

Hopefully I'm not missing an obvious issue about using them because my intention is to use the 2.47 set to get an overall axle ratio of around 5.33:1

With a 4L80E my highway RPMs will be awesome.


:usa:

Got a couple new things for the buggy.



Made my front driveshaft out of 2.5" .120 cromoly.


And picked up some China mirrors off ebay for 27$$ fit great..

Very sick rig, love it. :smokin:

Thanks for the complements.

Couple pics of last trip out.. Works Great.

Looks like fun.:smokin: I tried but couldn't find a build thread for your buggy. Do you have one? If not, what is your wheelbase and belly pan clearance? I'm guessing 114-116" and around 20" belly. Let me know how close I am.:)

ya sweet buggy mark! glad see a pic of it.....do you use a linear actuator for that light bar:smokin:

Looks like fun.:smokin: I tried but couldn't find a build thread for your buggy. Do you have one? If not, what is your wheelbase and belly pan clearance? I'm guessing 114-116" and around 20" belly. Let me know how close I am.:)
I don't have a build thread. WB 116 20 belly.


ya sweet buggy mark! glad see a pic of it.....do you use a linear actuator for that light bar:smokin:

Thanks
I just push the light bar up by hand. The buggy only has 4 switches.

2 are seat heaters :grinpimp:
1 a starter button
1 light switch

I did not want complicated wiring to fix on the trail..
I even took out the ARB and only run spools now.


Mark

I don't have a build thread. WB 116 20 belly.

Mark

I figured I was really close. Do you have any shots of it directly from the side? Trying to get a better idea of the proportions of your buggy.

All i got.

this thing is cool, great work, wanna whack it in a container and ship it to australia for me lol

:smokin:

this thing is cool, great work, wanna whack it in a container and ship it to australia for me lol

Anything is possible. :)

Love your rig. So you used a ruff stuff housing, branik outer flanges and bolted the portal boxes to the outer flanges correct? Axle shafts were resplined/made to fit the ford 9 differential and unimog portal boxes?

What brakes are you running?

Love your rig. So you used a ruff stuff housing, branik outer flanges and bolted the portal boxes to the outer flanges correct? Axle shafts were resplined/made to fit the ford 9 differential and unimog portal boxes?

What brakes are you running?

Spidertrax brakes my brackets the shafts are CTM and Branik. one is a resplined stock soon to be traded for a 4340 to match everything else..

Spidertrax brakes my brackets the shafts are CTM and Branik. one is a resplined stock soon to be traded for a 4340 to match everything else..

So the bracket you fabricated, bolts to the stock mog 404 STEERING portal box, correct?
Or did you fab a new knuckle?
Front and rear steer or did you go back to front steer only?

Sorry for all the questions, i am a little new to mogs, but i am looking for a way to reduce stress on the diffs and axles and raise ground clearance and trying to stay light and low.. Good luck to me right ; )

The yota diff you are running is the 8 or 9.5 inch?
I would love to keep and run my minitruck (8in) diffs, chromo axleshafts, ruff stuff housing to mog portal boxes.
That would take the stress off my axleshafts and diffs which is my weakpoint now with 175:1 crawl ratio and 39 reds. Once i add chromo shafts/longfields to the mix my 4.10 diff will be put to the test.

Trying to avoid dana 60/14bolt combo.. i don't own farmland to go with those plows

Im looking at doing something similar... what was the reason for using toy in the front instead of both being 9's also what is the with of the axle housing and what is the overall width

So the bracket you fabricated, bolts to the stock mog 404 STEERING portal box, correct?
Or did you fab a new knuckle?
Front and rear steer or did you go back to front steer only?

Sorry for all the questions, i am a little new to mogs, but i am looking for a way to reduce stress on the diffs and axles and raise ground clearance and trying to stay light and low.. Good luck to me right ; )

The yota diff you are running is the 8 or 9.5 inch?
I would love to keep and run my minitruck (8in) diffs, chromo axleshafts, ruff stuff housing to mog portal boxes.
That would take the stress off my axleshafts and diffs which is my weakpoint now with 175:1 crawl ratio and 39 reds. Once i add chromo shafts/longfields to the mix my 4.10 diff will be put to the test.

Trying to avoid dana 60/14bolt combo.. i don't own farmland to go with those plows

I run toy 8" front. yes i fabed up brackets to stock box locations.

Im looking at doing something similar... what was the reason for using toy in the front instead of both being 9's also what is the with of the axle housing and what is the overall width

toyota was lighter and more ground clearance. I forget what my width is. overall is around 84