I found a link on here a while back to all the info I could ever want on a Ford 60 but now I cant find it :(

I need some BASIC questions asnwered like the perch widths on different years and the necked down shafts, etc. So I just wanna find that link instead of asking repetetive q's. Anybody got it?

Two places with some info
Dana 60 manual (http://www.solidaxle.net/dana60manual/)
and
thread (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=81337&highlight=dana+60+ford+info)

Damn newbies should search, wait I did. Damn old farts should search :flipoff2:

Hope that helps, I know it's not exactly what you asked for.

Ben

More info

BOM (http://www.rightcoastcrawler.com/tech/bom/BomModel.html)

Thanks guys. Unfortunately I am still not finding what I need, so I guess I should ask :(

I have been told Ford D60 fronts have 2 different spring perch widths depending on the year. What are those widths and which years?

Also, the necked down shafts....are those ONLY the 78-9 ones, or are they in other years too?

Thanks guys, I know this has been covered, but I just cant find it :( :beer:

I am learning the 88-91.5 ones are 36 inch spring width ??? Can anybody else verify that?

ummm, Keith do you not believe me??

Keith,

I'm guessing that the 36" wide ones are probably the Ball Joint style ones...stay away from them since the High Steer will cost you a fortune.



Also, I forgot to mention to you the other day, some Ford Calipers are smaller than others. I think Bigdude used '83 calipers on his 78 or 79 D60. Something about less grinding involved..I dunno, my brake kit showed up the day I was looking into this.

78-79 Ford HP60s will bolt into a YJ without having to outboard the springs. There is enough perch width to machine the centerpin hole slightly inward (1/8") and not have problems. I believe the actual measurement is like 31.something. I just bolted mine in and it works fine

The 78-79 Ford HP60s are also the axle that has the necked down inner shafts. You can easily replace them with non-necked down shafts for about $200.


Anything over the year '79 will have a wider perch distance with a short passenger side tube (perch is still on the housing). You'll have to outboard your springs in front to fit it, or re-tube.


78-79 is what you want, they are just a little harder to find. I know a guy down here with a couple right now, but it will run you around $1K for the housing as is. He also builds them for a decent price.

Originally posted by Scout Dude
Also, I forgot to mention to you the other day, some Ford Calipers are smaller than others. I think Bigdude used '83 calipers on his 78 or 79 D60. Something about less grinding involved..I dunno, my brake kit showed up the day I was looking into this.

Yep. 80-84 calipers off the TTB 3/4 and 1-ton Ford have a different casting than the 78-79 off the solid axle HP60. Takes like 10 minutes to grind a side once you know where to hit with the grinder. not much material at all off the actual caliper. This was with 3.5" BS.

Thanks Bigdude. That is what I was looking for. I will let you know on the info from your PM ;)

Joel.....the one Dave has is the 36 inch perch width but has kingpins :beer:

Yeah Dave...I was checkin up on you :flipoff2: Actually, I just needed to know that the 78-9 were the ONLY years I am lookin at.

I can confirm what bigdude said re: 78/79. I just put one in my YJ, the perches are just a little too wide, you can easily recenter the holes (which I am doing now) to make them fit. This makes them ~31 inches wide.

I have already outboard my springs that 1/8 inch on each sode from the D44 I had ;) Not worried abouthtat at all. Is it possible to get my 4.25 BS rims onto this bad boy? Joel, would the kit you have allow for that? Or do I need to think about getting new rims?

Originally posted by Keith Strong
I have already outboard my springs that 1/8 inch on each sode from the D44 I had ;) Not worried abouthtat at all. Is it possible to get my 4.25 BS rims onto this bad boy? Joel, would the kit you have allow for that? Or do I need to think about getting new rims?

I have had someone tell me that they got 4" backspacing on these brakes before, but I have no idea how. It would take a lot of material. 3.5" is all I would feel comfortable with having done the work before.

You could probably get some new white wagon wheels for like $150-$200 and just paint them black. My guess is that's cheaper/easier than the 1/2 ton brake kit which is new calipers, rotors, caliper brackets, etc. Brake parts and bearings for the outer hubs will run you $300 with cores for the calipers. Change out your MC and the dual piston calipers work awesome. Brake parts alone will be about $180 (possibly less, can't recall). You might be able to pick up used wheels cheap as some are moving to 17" rims.

I think I can make them easy enough...Joel's seem pretty easy to duplicate, but I gotta look into it. ;)

Yep, 4 1/8 is the max for my set up I think...plenty of room. We can throw one of your wheels on mine to check though.

On a side note, I met with Kevin and gave him the key to give to Irv.

Sweet...any idea when power is goin in? got my welder so I now I am excited to get the 220 up and runnin :D

I dunno, Irv is your buddy! Why don't you call him



Added useless Jeep Tech so I don't get yelled at for Chit Chatting in the Tech forum:

Commandos have either 101 or 104" WB depending on which year/style you have!

:flipoff2:

So, to much work to stick an 88' D60 under a YJ ? Not worth it ... ??

Well I don't know about not worth it but it will take a little bit of work. Here are a few options. 1)Outboard the springs to 36" or go to coil-overs 2)Cut 4.250" off the long side and put the spring pad at 30.750 and respline the axle. This would make it 65.250 WMS to WMS

78/79 are the only ones with the 31.5" spring centers where any later year Ford 60 has 36" be it Ball joint or King pin.
Hey Keith if you get a ball joint 60 it is no problem doing high steer on them and the next 60 for me will be ball joint not another king pin one.

Keith, the thing that I know about them is that the late model ones, the diff is about 3" closer to the short side so that the short side is shorter.

66CJdean: With a 65.250 WMS front end,a C&C 14b would be a perfect fit for the rear then right...

I would prefere the rear to be an inch or so narrower on each side because it tracks better but yes that woud work just fine.

Originally posted by 66CJdean
I would prefere the rear to be an inch or so narrower on each side because it tracks better but yes that woud work just fine.

Second that.

Well, if the front is 65.25" and the rear is ~63", doesn't this make it approx 1" on each side? :flipoff2:


FYI, my Front 60 is 65" and I have a DUALLIE 14bolt in the rear. Works great..

Originally posted by 66CJdean
Hey Keith if you get a ball joint 60 it is no problem doing high steer on them and the next 60 for me will be ball joint not another king pin one.

Why? :beer:

One reason would be you have more room for shocks and or coilovers. Dean's front is only 60" wide that makes it tight with the king pin style. Also I haven't seen a ball joint knuckle break. Has anybody else?

Originally posted by bigdude

Yep. 80-84 calipers off the TTB 3/4 and 1-ton Ford have a different casting than the 78-79 off the solid axle HP60. Takes like 10 minutes to grind a side once you know where to hit with the grinder. not much material at all off the actual caliper. This was with 3.5" BS.

is that what your runngin in this pic? thats WIDE:eek:

is that with the 38's they look really small.

Well for the most part what KYODER said. What I dislike about the king pin style is that the knuckle sort of floats and is not firmly attached to the C so it moves quite a bit and causes some problems. One is that the seals cannot stayed sealed with that sort of movement so there is grease everywhere, two the steering is less precise and changes do to the amout of force and what the direction the force is so one time you can't even come close to hitting the stop and the other time it over does it and causes ujoint bind in the axles. Third is it beats the hell out of my shocks due to all this movement and they aren't all that close but I need to move them further yet. With a ball joint the knuckle movement it fixed and is much more compact so I will be able to move the shock mounts out further and that adds stability. Will it cost an extra $100 for the histeer setup on a ball joint sure but that is not that big a deal in the total cost of the whole thing.
I have a ball joint RC60 housing and even some 4.10's if you want to go that way.

My 79 was 69.25" wide

Originally posted by 66CJdean
FYI a 78/79 will be 67" wide and the newer ones will be 69.5" I forgot to mention that in my first post.

67in?

:D

Stand corrected. The 44's were 67" so I expected the 60 to be also. I will delete that little screw up.