Hi everyone, I'm new to this site though I've been using it for quite a while, I used it to decide what I want for my trail/camping rig. I decided on a first generation Mitsubishi montero 2 door short wheelbase. I'm currently active duty military and I leave on deployment may of 2011 and would like this to be close To if not finished by the time that rolls around, the truck is all stock for.now but I lucked out as it has only had one owner and has been meticulously cared for all oil changes on time etc...but back to why I am making this thread, I want a good camp and trail style truck with no bigger than 33 inch tires, something I can put my camping,hunting fishing gear in drive to the woods but also something that I can wheel when the occasion calls for it. I don't know exactly how I want to do it so I'm open to any and all suggestions. Thoughts I have so far are swapping the rear axle out for a gen 2 montero Sr with the mitsu locker, I havent got a clue if it will be a direct bolt up yet does anybody know? As for suspension I don't know what all I should do so suggestions there would be. Very much appreciated. Remember all I want to run is 33 inch tires I was told that if you run a 15x8 inch rim with 3.25 backspaceing then a lift wouldn't be needed but is this true? Please help :-)) anyone with ideas feel free everything is appreciated :-)

I think SWB Montero's are a great platform to turn into a hunting/expedition rig. You mentioned you would like to run tires no larger than 33". I would recommend going with 31 tires because they fill the wheel wells nicely, and they do not sap your engine power as much as 33's would. I would not be too concerned with swapping axles to get a locker. Does your Monty have the rear Limited Slip Differential? Try driving it and if you decide that you cannot live with out a locker, I would go with an ARB locker. I think you would be alot happier and satisfied with and ARB Bull Bar, and a nice roof rack and maybe even a winch. Here is a Pic of a Monty with an ARB Bull Bar and roof rack, but I would go with a full roof rack and not just half rack like in the picture.

https://www.quadratec.com/Assets/Images/65830/65830-lg.jpg

Thanks, I say 33's because I have 31s on it already it does fit nicely but my local shop is gonna put a two and a half inch body lift and I'm gonna crank the torsion bars up so I'm thinkin that ill be able to run 33s with 31s I can't even tell a difference and I'm gonna put on a new intake and headers and exhaust also all supplied by my local shop I'm hoping that the newly made power will allow the 33s without to much grind and whine from the vehicle

Headers in an '89? Do you have a 2.6l 4 cyl in it? Otherwise a rare item for the V6.

Heres 33s on my rig.

http://www.ns-micro.com/~phanson/pics/CIMG5898_sm.JPG

Yeah that's a super Sharp lookin truck, how's the rub. when off road? Do you still get decent flex? And what all have you done to yours?

Here's my LWB with 33s. 2 inch body lift and a slight T-bar crank. No rubbing with this setup. It was also run on 35s with the same lift with minor sheet metal work required.

Is yours a 3.0 or a 2.6, 89 was a switch over year for the engines and also the rear suspension.

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg36/mitsulvr/Montero/macleanmay08001Sam-1.jpg

2.6 I4, and its leaf sprung in the rear

With the 2.6L and 33s, you'll be looking for more power or lower gearing, eventually. I have an 87 Raider, same setup and have run 33s from time to time. I have used 8.5" and 10" wide rims with 4" backspace and have not had rubbing issues outside of the front fender lip, inside wheel well splash guard, and front bumper ends. All these issues can be clearanced easily.

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff112/rxinhed/Snow%20Run%201-08/P1200089.jpg

I have some other shots in the photo thread, but here is the closest shot with the fender clearance...no lift, no twisting of bars or extended shackles.

Russell

(P.S. Delete the second thread with the same topic, you posted twice.)

Where can I pick me up some lower gears and what do you suggest? 4.88s? And with this 2 inch body lift and some tweaking of my Tbars I'm thinkin that the only thing ill need to cut are the bumper ends, from what I've read they seem to need it the most

2" body lift and 33s
don't even crank the tbars unless you go the full recommended 2" (why get an alignment twice?)
2" rear lift shackles:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRA-0084/

4crawler sells body lifts

ruggedridge sells lockout hubs, or a set of aisin hubs from a junkyard montero, dodge d50, dodge raider, mighty max

check the silver engine plates under the hoods of Gen1 monteros for "4875" to find a set of rare 4.88 gears, otherwise there are NO gears sets. 5.29s from an australian pajero cost $800 for just the front, so why bother with the mitsubishi stuff at that point...
Besides, 33s will be fine with a 2.6, plenty of guys running 35s and a 2.6

33 and 15x8 with 3.75" BS will fit with 2" lift no problem

My T-bars are cranked ~2". Nothing in the rear. No rubbing in the rear either. I tried shackles and add-a-leaf in the rear and didn't like the ride. Am looking for a set of OME rear leafs but they appear as rare as hen's teeth these days. I used to have 285/85/16 on 7" steelies, they rubbed way more the the 33" I have now. its all in the rim offset. Mine are 8.5" x 15 with 3.75" BOS. Power? yea the 2.6l is plenty poky thats why I am building a TSI for mine.

To cure the 2.6 poky issue, I am either going forward with a 302 in the Raider, or build a cab truck with Ray's old blue, my small service body, and an 83 Dodge W150 longbed chassis with 360. We'll see...

Where can I pick me up some lower gears and what do you suggest? 4.88s? And with this 2 inch body lift and some tweaking of my Tbars I'm thinkin that the only thing ill need to cut are the bumper ends, from what I've read they seem to need it the most

If you have a 4cyl then I have some 4.88 gears sitting in my garage, but they will run you $400. If you ask me, they are a must have if you plan on running 33's. Others may say different, but that's because they haven't run 4.88's.

I have a 96 blazer s10 sitten around with the vortec 3.0 v6 how difficult would that swap be

I have a 96 blazer s10 sitten around with the vortec 3.0 v6 how difficult would that swap be
Unpossible


The 4.3 swap however, has its common problems, none that would stop you that I can think of:grinpimp:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3504/4565002104_1e3c7f0aa0_o.jpg

3 inch lift. 33 inch Mud rovers. Rear air locker. Front Aussie locker.

No scraping at all on turns or flexing. The Complete rear end & suspension is from a 1995 gen 2 Montero. It was a direct Bolt in.

My Raider can fly too.

YouTube - Kris Jumping over Sand Dunes in Dodge Raider at Pismo Beach (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K_jALjtTsTk)

Raiders are the Shiznit!

:mr-t:

The aussie crawler gears are inexpensive and will give you way more power than you'll need for 33's so if you get those you might as well get 35's like all of us down here in Az.

Ok cool, but 35s are a pretty penny and what axle is in the rear of my truck the 8 or the 9 inch

You'll have the smaller axle in the rear of an I4. As for the post above on the 95 locker bolting in, that's only for V6 Gen Is, SWB or LWB, as they are coil sprung.

You can try and find a locker from a mid-late 90s Montero Sport as it will bolt in, just a little wider. (Later MSs went to coils.) Or get an SR locker, which are easier to find, and start grinding and welding for your leaf-sprung.

Or get the ARB for the I4 rear.

On the Aussie front, do they fit the I4's, or are they like the ARB front and needing the V6 housing? If the latter, swapping a Gen I V6 front is pretty easy to get done.

Here's mine. 33's 2" BL, 95 rear end with locker and related suspension components. Winch and bumpers and sliders I made.

http://gallery.me.com/zone1wst/100152/IMG_0341/web.jpg?ver=12685455890001

Every time I see another Raider/Montero with about the same lift as mine (2" Body Lift, t-bar crank) on 33x12.5s it always seems to look like its sitting higher than my truck does on 34x9.5s. I don't know if its because of the skinny tires that it throws it off, or maybe its just me. :rolleyes:

Every time I see another Raider/Montero with about the same lift as mine (2" Body Lift, t-bar crank) on 33x12.5s it always seems to look like its sitting higher than my truck does on 34x9.5s. I don't know if its because of the skinny tires that it throws it off, or maybe its just me. :rolleyes:

i have NO t-Bar crank.. but the rear looks higher on my rig because of the GEN 2 Springs i installed.

Real nice when i load up the rear cargo area!

ok so i figured out that the 2 barrel carb is messed up, the actuator or something is messed up on the second barrel so my question is should i rebuild it, replace it with one from a junkyard or if they make them some kind of a performance carb kit what would be the most cost efficient way to go...also i checked the aussie locker website and it says they dont make a locker for neither end of my truck...so why do i keep seeing people saying they have one? will the locker actually fit or have they done some type of a swap to allow for it. and btw guys i have the two inch body lift on and its sittin on 33 by 12.50 bridgestone allterrains...they were a craigslist special 150 bucks for 5!!! just wanted you guys helpin out that progress is being made :-)

weber carb

aussie locker doesn't fit a 4cyl front axle

ok so on to the carb problem...what should i do?

Hey guys, I just bought a 1990 Monty with a 3.0. I am having the t-bars crunk up but I was wondering what size wheels do I need to buy... also... could I run 33s on it with no lift, or should i go with 31s?

Hey guys, I just bought a 1990 Monty with a 3.0. I am having the t-bars crunk up but I was wondering what size wheels do I need to buy... also... could I run 33s on it with no lift, or should i go with 31s?

i would lift it a bit if you are going to run 33's.

when/if you get new wheels...do not forget the backspacing.

here is an article on backspacing:
http://minitruckin.automotive.com/69106/0611mt-wheel-offset-wheel-backspacing/index.html

:mr-t:

I have the same idea as you as far as the overall intent of the truck. I am installing a 87 starion LSD in front. a gen 1 LSD in back. this way there is no possibility of breaking an axle no matter what sort of buffoonery I may commit. also i plan on adding a 2in body lift and leave the paris-dakar rally winning suspension the way it is.

on the carb/engine front I agree the mikuni is a little failure. It might be the most complicated way to get fuel and air into an engine. my solution: a cheap holly 2300, a rebuild kit with hardware, and about an hour and a half of wrench time. I am also adding some head work and a higher lift longer duration cam. this combined with the intake porting and the headers and exhaust should put me in the 150-160hp ball park which should be enough to get 33s rolling with stock gears (so you don't feel like a truck driver on your way to the beach)

other refinements will include some armor and a roof rack.

good luck to you buddy

:mr-t:HELLO I'M IN COSTA RICA, I HAVE SEEN YOUR PHOTOS AND DECEO MODIFY SO MY MONTERO, MY COUNTRY IS OF TROPICAL CLIMATE AND IS PAID TO PUT PROVES THESE VEHICLES AUI THEM SENDING A COUPLE OF PICTURES OF MY CAR US WE SEE