well i have decide to build a frame for my ranger. i believe that 2x3 3/16 box tubing should be stout enough. it is for my ranger. the frame is to shave weight, lower the stance, raise the ground clearance, and put ex-cab in place.


my ranger is a pos with 4.0, a 5 speed, doubler, three link, hp 60 5.13 welded, 10.25 welded, 42 iroks, stuans and exo cage.

your thoughts i guess

I doubt youll save any weight with 3/16th box over the stock frame. 5.75 pounds per foot for 2x3 3/16th.

but it will 3 inches more ground clearance.plus i will be able to unleash the last 2 inches of compression on my coilovers

So your shocks don't compress all the way as it sits?


Any pics, will this be your build thread?

This thread sucks.

Building a new frame will increase weight. How do you lower your stance and get more ground clearance? WTF is an ex-cab, and why is building a new frame necessary to "put it in place?"

You fawked up your original suspension design, and your solution is to build a new frame?

Post up pics of what you're workin with.

Well his thinking is partly correct. He can lower his stance and keep the same ground clearance but not gain. If you take a 5inch tall frame and shave 2 inches off the top of it you can lower the body 2-3 inches depending on how close you want it to the new frame but keep the same ground clearance. I believe he is thinking in reverse, shave off the bottom of the frame, but Really in that case the drive line components (tranny/transfer case) will still be at the same level and hang lower than the new frame rails. So In your thinking you are truly only accomplishing ground clearance at the frame rails under the cab without lifting at the suspension. But bad news on the part of weight reduction steel stock @ 3/16 wall is fawking heavy compared to a factory C channel chassis as Ranger4.0 stated "5.75 pounds per foot". I say build the frame (if weight actually isnt a big deal to you), lower the body, and then raise the suspension. You will still have the same roof line height you have now, but gain a couple inches under your rig. Goodluck and lets see some pics!

Another option is to do what a few ranger guys have done and build a new front frame from the firewall forward. Both Zabeard and Seubs (sp?) have custom tube front frames to gain clearance for suspension.

well the frame thing is kinda because my friend who i go wheeling with built his frame and it works so well. his truck is lighter than mine. plus when i end-ode on sos in johnson valley i kinde f-ed my frame.



oh yah it will be a complete flat bottem no matter what i do. just like i have now.

I did some math when looking at doing a full size truck frame, and my idea was for 8x3 3/16" wall, which I figured at 40 feet, and it would have been 535 lbs or so on the rails, then on the crossmembers would have been another 156 lbs or so for 6" .188 wall dom. That comes out to 691lbs, and even if the frame was shorter, that would probably be close if you figure in the weigh of the welds. Don't know what a full size frame (reg cab long bed) weighs, but I do know that this frame height would have allowed for a flat belly pan, and with the spring perches mounted at the bottom of the frame, I could run 40s with stock springs.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=441697

this may be a build tread we will see if remember a camera