well i am needing a little insight on the topic so what are you guys thinking? i am not really wanting someones opinion or preference because for 95% of the time those people only choose that set-up as 'superior' because they have it.

i am just curious

Originally posted by cornjeeper
well i am needing a little insight on the topic so what are you guys thinking? i am not really wanting someones opinion or preference because for 95% of the time those people only choose that set-up as 'superior' because they have it.

i am just curious


What specific facts would you be looking for??? I have one specific fact for you, LongFields won't fit in your 93 Sahara axle, unless you upgraded it to a Toy axle :D :D :D .

Toy axles would be a huge improvement over what you have now. :D Then throw in some longfields and some all-pro chromoly axles and you'd be unstopable. Just a whee bit o fabbing to do :D

IF $$$ is not an option. GO BIG!

sounds like Jeeper guy has a argument with his toyota buddies...

"the pirate guys said..."

:flipoff2:

I think what you really wanna know is how much mogs cost..


ok my OPINION is that yota drive train rocks...but if you got 44 and 9 inch you're same ballpark equiped..

as for what axle has the strongest optional equipment I dunno..

unless you can put a 35 or 40 spline in a 44 I would say they are so close to equal it don't mattter...

a stock birf is stronger in a straight line that a 297 but weaker when turned...

I think a dana 30 with stock yota outers is all the rage right now? :confused:

i have seen the heated argument on another board,:eek: and what is stronger, either a D44 with warns and CMT;s, or a toyota with longs and allpro inners, say on the exact same truck. same gearing, same lockers , everything the same, say he had a D44 with warns and CMT and then he swapped in a toyota with longs and allpro inners into his Jeep, what would break first, the toy or D44, what is stronger or what would blow.

umm.............. 6 D :-) jiMMy

Originally posted by pitter
i have seen the heated argument on another board,:eek: and what is stronger, either a D44 with warns and CMT;s, or a toyota with longs and allpro inners, say on the exact same truck. same gearing, same lockers , everything the same, say he had a D44 with warns and CMT and then he swapped in a toyota with longs and allpro inners into his Jeep, what would break first, the toy or D44, what is stronger or what would blow.


thats what I thought this was about...

who cares.....

on a related note I lost the quote for my new sig from another CTM thread...


somone said somthing like "i dunno but my cowshit and mollasses has been holding up fine" or somthing anybody remember that?


OOPS I guess I fawked this thread now I should say... MOVE THIS TO CHIT CHAT!!

Originally posted by Moab Austin



thats what I thought this was about...

who cares.....

on a related note I lost the quote for my new sig from another CTM thread...


somone said somthing like "i dunno but my cowshit and mollasses has been holding up fine" or somthing anybody remember that?


OOPS I guess I fawked this thread now I should say... MOVE THIS TO CHIT CHAT!!

No man, I remeber that quote it was pretty funny but I forget how it goes as well.

Originally posted by Moab Austin
sounds like Jeeper guy has a argument with his toyota buddies...

"the pirate guys said..."



Yep. That's pretty much it.

I say the longfields are stronger Andrew

Facts are overrated :flipoff2:

I have seen hundreds of failed axles over the years and I have a pretty good idea of what they can take. In the last month I have seen both CTM's and LongFields fail. From what I have seen I would have to say the CTM/Warn setup is stronger than any combo of Birfields and heavy duty axles you want to put up next to it. The 44 joint also has a tighter turning radius.

Originally posted by Moab Austin
on a related note I lost the quote for my new sig from another CTM thread...


http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=87942

Originally posted by The Jerk
umm.............. 6 D :-) jiMMy

6D

or 6D outers, hybrid, nine inner 35 spline 1.5" axles (or bigger)

Originally posted by BJ On Roids

or 6D outers, hybrid, nine inner 35 spline 1.5" axles (or bigger)

Most commonly known as the rollin' Nolen front axle... :) That same company (Sunray) now makes their hybrid 9"/60 with 1550 outers...those things are fawking HUGE!!!!:eek:

Originally posted by Moab Austin



thats what I thought this was about...

who cares.....

on a related note I lost the quote for my new sig from another CTM thread...


somone said somthing like "i dunno but my cowshit and mollasses has been holding up fine" or somthing anybody remember that?


OOPS I guess I fawked this thread now I should say... MOVE THIS TO CHIT CHAT!!


yea ya botched my comment real good dued ;)

I have warn 44 shafts with CTM's in my Toy axle. This will be my second run on them. They are new and Jack and I are trying to see how much they can go through. Going back to the box and going to beat on them some more!!!
They are bigger than the old Redline kit and better.

Pat

ps I blew up a hub last weekend in the box!!:D :flipoff2: :D :D

I want the answer to, but not cause I gotta argument with a jeep guy. I want something that can take the abuse of comps, steer tight and not sacrifice ground clearance.

Pat, I talked with Jack at SuperCrawl and he revealed someone was beating on his last mod for the mini's. I now assume it's you. I am very interested in your results, although I need different inners to take advantage of his work.

Does the hub blow before the longfield/stock inners would have? Even though it's easier to fix it doesn't matter when on an obstacle, ask Lance and Mike. Turning radius and strength when full lock has got to be better with your setup, and thats HUGE in the big picture.

Is the stuff your running a simple swap for stock stuff? Mod the spindle and add a bushing, slide the shafts in and go? What hubs CAN you use? Asins?

Thanks and keep us posted. This may be the next advancement in Toy front axles, the one we have really been waiting on.

Spaceghost
I have been beating them on the trail and so far so good. My buddy has the same tires 37-12.5-17 BFGs and Bobby Longs. The problem I have been hearing about the Bobby's are that the get relly stiff, make noises when turning, and sometimes when the ARB is on lots of binding. I dont have any of those problems!!!!


And why do it......cause its TOYOTA!!!!!! :D :D :flipoff2:

Originally posted by cornjeeper
well i am needing a little insight on the topic so what are you guys thinking? i am not really wanting someones opinion or preference because for 95% of the time those people only choose that set-up as 'superior' because they have it.

i am just curious




dude you are a kook.

your first question is " so what are you guys thinking ? "

followed by,
" i am not really wanting someones opinion or preference"

:rainbow:

if you want facts. hire a independant testing lab and have them analisyed and do destruction testing on a strain gage. if you want to know the opinions of some of the worlds most experianced wheelers then ask for our opinions. otherwise shut the fawk up.

sorry to bring up an old post, but what about the strengths of deep gearing in these setups?? NO doubt both setups are pretty dialed outside of the third member, but what if you wanna run 5.29's in the toy axle or 5.38's in the dana, or even deeper??

im running the toy axle with the longfields on 38.5 sx's, and am having problems shredding teeeth off ring and pinions, but need to maintain a deep gear in the pumpkins....strengths in the 44, that i cant get out of the toy third???

Originally posted by Booger Weldz
sorry to bring up an old post, but what about the strengths of deep gearing in these setups?? NO doubt both setups are pretty dialed outside of the third member, but what if you wanna run 5.29's in the toy axle or 5.38's in the dana, or even deeper??

im running the toy axle with the longfields on 38.5 sx's, and am having problems shredding teeeth off ring and pinions, but need to maintain a deep gear in the pumpkins....strengths in the 44, that i cant get out of the toy third??? you will be in the same boat just wait and see. that is what i think.. i say that they are about the same. i like toyota stuff, but there are things i like about the dana stuff as well. if you have a choise and want to spend the money, then build a dana 44. but if you want to save some money then go ahead and build a toy axle be cause it will be as strong but it will be cheaper. does anyone agree????????

Originally posted by Booger Weldz
sorry to bring up an old post, but what about the strengths of deep gearing in these setups?? NO doubt both setups are pretty dialed outside of the third member, but what if you wanna run 5.29's in the toy axle or 5.38's in the dana, or even deeper??

im running the toy axle with the longfields on 38.5 sx's, and am having problems shredding teeeth off ring and pinions, but need to maintain a deep gear in the pumpkins....strengths in the 44, that i cant get out of the toy third???
Paul, I don't think going to a 44 even with warns and CTM's would be that much of an upgrade over the cost involved. I didn't get CTM's when I got my warns for the simple fact that I couldn't swallow close to $800 in axles/joints. :eek: PLus I don't "get it" either. Add up the total cost in my 44 and you'd shit, but it's new from hub to hub as well. I think a Toyota would be the same in this reguard though. I like the width and turning of a 44 though. I was going to run a Toyota front (had 3 of them) but the longs were just out and I blew it off as another marfield. It would have been cheaper to go with the Toyota front in the end...plus oddles of spare parts.

If you get those axles sold, snag a 60/14B and you should be golden.

Originally posted by camo
if you want facts. hire a independant testing lab and have them analisyed and do destruction testing on a strain gage. if you want to know the opinions of some of the worlds most experianced wheelers then ask for our opinions. otherwise shut the fawk up.

hate to sound like Im asskissing but this is EXACTLY what I was thinking.

On the tech side, I have a toy axle in my Toy and Im biased towards D44s simple cause of the flipping factor.

I think toy axles = more flippage and I consider flipping a bad thing regaurdless of what some folks will say. Turning is a plus on D44 too.

Also, i dunno but arent D44 ring and pinions much tougher than toys? Id rather swap and axle than gears and locker.

Also, isnt it easier to change and axle in a D44? I dunno, never done it.

Other things to think about, its not all about strength, if it was we would all be running EATON 10 tons or somehting.:D

Originally posted by TyTy
Also, isnt it easier to change and axle in a D44? I dunno, never done it.
Cleaner....yes Easier...that's debatable IMO. On a toyota axle you can remove the steering arm and be able to remove the entire knuckles/hub/rotor in one piece. (correct me if I'm wrong here) On a 44 you need to tear it all down witch does take some time comparativly speaking. It's not a deciding factor IMO though.

average teardown tome of a D44 for me is 8min from the first lugnut to pulling the shaft... not a world record but not even a 1 beer job :D

if ya want to stay toy wodth the longfield's kick ass... if you want width, well you're into teh D44 stuff :D i did finally bust a CTM, but it had alot of abuse on it... alot of abuse it shouldn't have gotten... like drive slug's @ 55 on teh freewawy for hours on end etc...

Originally posted by Bones

Paul, I don't think going to a 44 even with warns and CTM's would be that much of an upgrade over the cost involved. I didn't get CTM's when I got my warns for the simple fact that I couldn't swallow close to $800 in axles/joints. :eek: PLus I don't "get it" either. Add up the total cost in my 44 and you'd shit, but it's new from hub to hub as well. I think a Toyota would be the same in this reguard though. I like the width and turning of a 44 though. I was going to run a Toyota front (had 3 of them) but the longs were just out and I blew it off as another marfield. It would have been cheaper to go with the Toyota front in the end...plus oddles of spare parts.

If you get those axles sold, snag a 60/14B and you should be golden.

im not woried about the ctms and chromo axles, and im not worried about my longfields and inner axles, im looking for a stronger ring and pinion tht can be run with deep gears like 5.29 5.38... ian has scredded 2 sets of quality 5.29's and he is pretty gentle on his drivetrain :(

Originally posted by Booger Weldz


im not woried about the ctms and chromo axles, and im not worried about my longfields and inner axles, im looking for a stronger ring and pinion tht can be run with deep gears like 5.29 5.38... ian has scredded 2 sets of quality 5.29's and he is pretty gentle on his drivetrain :(
But you'll be breaking stock 44 shaft right and left then the way it seems you drive. Not sure how much stronger 44 R&P's are, but you could build a RC44 and be lots stronger than you are now. But of coarse so would swaping to a HP Toyota housing. I think it's a marginal gain really. I see 60's in your future. :D

Originally posted by Chris Geiger
I have seen hundreds of failed axles over the years and I have a pretty good idea of what they can take. In the last month I have seen both CTM's and LongFields fail. From what I have seen I would have to say the CTM/Warn setup is stronger than any combo of Birfields and heavy duty axles you want to put up next to it. The 44 joint also has a tighter turning radius.

AMEN;)