So I have been trying to dial in my car's suspension and one of the big issues I am running into is the fact that my car gets very loose at times.

Through shock tuning I have ended up dumping almost all of my rebound on the front end and I am still very light on the rear. The problem we are all running into is that we have no sprung weight so we are forced to dump almost all of our rebound (currently running half an 8 stack in the front and a 10 in the rear). This is necessary to keep tires on the ground and keep the suspension from packing, but as soon as I go into a corner there isn't anything keeping the suspension from unloading.

I am running a Rock Equipment sway bar that lasted a whole 4 trips to the desert. I was out shock tuning on friday at plaster city, came through a section of woops and heard a loud bang. I snapped a sway bar arm right at the broached section.

Now here is where the tech hopefully comes in. I have been looking at sway bar rates on speedway's site. In the past almost all of us rock crawlers have thrown on a currie bar and called it a day...but now with us trying to push our rigs harder and faster I am finding that body roll is killing me. I don't want to compromise the rock crawling aspect, but honestly I don't know it will really matter.

so...does anyone have rates on currie and rock equipment bars?

I can't be the first one with this issue...what is everyone else doing to control the wicked body roll we get by dumping valving and running stupid light spring rates.

BTW. The buggy weights in fully loaded at 3715lbs.

Valving specs

After last friday's testing I am changing the coil carriers out to remote reservoirs and running 10/0 in the coilovers and 15/8 in the bypasses (front) and 10/8 in the rear coilovers and 20/8 (maybe 20/10 in the rear)

Front I am running 2.5" prerunner 3 tube bypasses, 2.0" prerunner coilovers
Rear is 3.0" race series 5 tube bypasses and 2.0" race series coilovers (w 2.5" resis)

http://dirtbuilt.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=516&g2_serialNumber=1

How much preload you running and spring rates?

200/250 rear with 1.75" preload, 150/175 front with .75" preload

This seems to have more charts with different sizes and rates.
http://www.schroedersteering.com/SwayBarChartPage.html

I'm running an unconventional front sway bar setup. The bar is behind the front axle, but in front of the motor, so it had to be narrow with short arms. It is 26" wide with 11" arms. Initially, I ran a bar with a spring rate of 228 and it was way too stiff for the short arms. I then dropped to a spring rate of 59, it is just about perfect. I will probably order a slightly lighter bar to try out.

I'm also running a Currie bar on the rear, it helps, but the front bar makes a huge difference in high speed handling, but I have never run the rig without the rear bar. I would like to put a slightly stiffer bar on the rear if I knew what rate the Currie bar is.

This seems to have more charts with different sizes and rates.
http://www.schroedersteering.com/SwayBarChartPage.html

I'm running an unconventional front sway bar setup. The bar is behind the front axle, but in front of the motor, so it had to be narrow with short arms. It is 26" wide with 11" arms. Initially, I ran a bar with a spring rate of 228 and it was way too stiff for the short arms. I then dropped to a spring rate of 59, it is just about perfect. I will probably order a slightly lighter bar to try out.

I'm also running a Currie bar on the rear, it helps, but the front bar makes a huge difference in high speed handling, but I have never run the rig without the rear bar. I would like to put a slightly stiffer bar on the rear if I knew what rate the Currie bar is.

What is the distance from the center of the bar to the center of the heim on the rear (effective arm length)

I think a front bar is in order...I'll find somewhere to put it.

I'll get a measurement tomorrow, but I have the currie set in the next to stiffest position.

I have the same problem with minimal rebound. How are you guys calculating spring rates of the bar? I run a Kick Ass Offroad 300m bar and aluminum arms. I would like to know more about the math behind a swaybar too. I had a 1 1/8" solid 35" bar with 15" arms (fawkin rockcrawler) and the thing was too stiff. It was like a light switch around corners, one second it was fine the next i picked a rear tire and was instantly on 2 wheels:barf:. My own fault for asking Dean to set me up with the stiffest bar he had. Seriously though, I could highlift the side of my car and pick a rear tire almost immediately.

Since then Kick Ass turned the bar down to .800 in the middle and the car feels much more predictable. And i can Highlift the side of the car without the swaybar picking a tire off of the ground. So I know it "feels" better but want to know the math>

I have the same problem with minimal rebound. How are you guys calculating spring rates of the bar? I run a Kick Ass Offroad 300m bar and aluminum arms. I would like to know more about the math behind a swaybar too. I had a 1 1/8" solid 35" bar with 15" arms (fawkin rockcrawler) and the thing was too stiff. It was like a light switch around corners, one second it was fine the next i picked a rear tire and was instantly on 2 wheels:barf:. My own fault for asking Dean to set me up with the stiffest bar he had. Seriously though, I could highlift the side of my car and pick a rear tire almost immediately.

Since then Kick Ass turned the bar down to .800 in the middle and the car feels much more predictable. And i can Highlift the side of the car without the swaybar picking a tire off of the ground. So I know it "feels" better but want to know the math>

I would love to hear someone who understands the math as well...how exactly are they calculated?

What is the rate of the Rock Equipment bar vs the Currie

I do know the rock equipment bar is too soft...I plan on taking several inches off the arms. I am also concerned that the arms won't hold up at all...I literally have 4 trips on my buggy and already snapped an arm. I'll have to post up some pics.

I am also concerned that the arms won't hold up at all...I literally have 4 trips on my buggy and already snapped an arm. I'll have to post up some pics.

Kind of funny that you say that because my rock equipment sway bar broke this weekend at RCQ and stuck one of the arms through my rear tire 5 miles from the finish line. Not saying I would have beat Derek but it would have been nice to try.:D Derek was also running the same sway bar and it broke as well. Mine stripped the arms out and popped the C-clip off. Derek actually broke the bar.

I stripped the splines out of quite a few Rock Equipment arms, before switching to the currie with steel arms. My front has aluminum arms, I broke/stripped a few with the stiffer bar, but since lightening it up, the arms have held up fine. I saw a post on here were someone took the Rock equipment arms and added a relief cut and drilled for a second bolt, looked like a really good idea for those arms.

Mine stripped the arms out and popped the C-clip off.
Drill and tap the end of the bar so you can run a large washer and bolt to keep the arm on even if it strips.

After stripping out 2 sets of aluminum arms I bought forged chromoly arms. I kept the 7075 arms but they bolt to the steel splined section now. I think my car still needs a front bar for handling reasons, but I think I may have the issues with the rear arms figured out.

I am thinking I don't really want to screw around anymore. I'm probably going to talk to CTM Jack tomorrow morning about getting a quality bar made. Jack can only broach certain spline counts though...I just need to be able to tell him exactly how thick to make it...hence the hope for a bit more info on how you calculate tortional rates.

I am thinking I don't really want to screw around anymore. I'm probably going to talk to CTM Jack tomorrow morning about getting a quality bar made. Jack can only broach certain spline counts though...I just need to be able to tell him exactly how thick to make it...hence the hope for a bit more info on how you calculate tortional rates.

Check with Dean at Kick Ass Offroad too. The bar he sold me is custom length 300m and when i didn't like it he turned it down till it worked. I would like it better if he made the arms out of steel but i can't say that i've stripped one yet either.

I broke a stockcarproducts bar about 50 miles into KOH this year as well.

When you guys highlift the side of the car does it pick a tire up before the limit strap tightens up?

CA YJ,

The bar thickness is really dependant on how long your arms are and how your suspension is designed. 1 1/8 was waaaaaay too much bar for my car but has worked for other people just fine.

I would love to hear someone who understands the math as well...how exactly are they calculated?

What is the rate of the Rock Equipment bar vs the Currie

I do know the rock equipment bar is too soft...I plan on taking several inches off the arms. I am also concerned that the arms won't hold up at all...I literally have 4 trips on my buggy and already snapped an arm. I'll have to post up some pics.

If i was you I'd leave the arms long and run a thicker bar. A thicker bar is going to stand up to more abuse before breaking.

If i was you I'd leave the arms long and run a thicker bar. A thicker bar is going to stand up to more abuse before breaking.

More importantly the longer arms mean fewer degrees of twist on the bar.

hence the hope for a bit more info on how you calculate tortional rates.
Does anyone have measurements of a currie bar? Then take that and find the closest dimensions in the link I posted.

When you guys highlift the side of the car does it pick a tire up before the limit strap tightens up?
With front and rear bars on, limit straps are tight before lifting a tire.

I am thinking I don't really want to screw around anymore. I'm probably going to talk to CTM Jack tomorrow morning about getting a quality bar made. Jack can only broach certain spline counts though...I just need to be able to tell him exactly how thick to make it...hence the hope for a bit more info on how you calculate tortional rates.


I worked at BMS and helped them when they were designing their offroad swaybar. We used our own 6061 aluminum arms, and had custom sway bars made at speedway. It wasn’t that they were super custom, we just had certain lengths that were needed and we did not like that amount of spline that was broached on there. so we would ask for more bite for the arms, and get the length.

Then came the 2nd half, which is what I got into, which is figuring out what thickness bar to get. We run the 1.25” bar, but it comes in .120, .250, .375”, and solid. Most guys just said I WANT A SOLID BAR, thinking that it was the best thing under the sun. Me personally, I went with a .250” wall bar, and I LOVED IT! it gave me a lot of flex, but right when you get to that point where you don’t want to go, it would stop short, load up, and let you get TONS of bite on the outside tires, with out wanting the back to lift, with out wanting the truck to slide, and even when it did it didn’t ever want to catch and lift. I recently relocated my sway bar down lower. The tie rod is ½ the length, and it stiffened the car up tremdously, and now I hate it! I am ready to go to a .125” bar!

Also, I am going to plaster city to test a clas 8 truck, and also my truck, I do charge for my services but I can definitely help you out, if you are interested, I can help you with your springs, help with the valving and help keep the car from umm… feeling TOO loose in the corners. PM if your interested, I work for a large off road race company but do tuning on the side.

The sway bar calculator in this thread seemed very helpful:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=817454&highlight=sway+bar+calculator
Calculator:
http://www.buildafastercar.com/tech/Sway-Bar-Rate-Calculator


I saw a post on here were someone took the Rock equipment arms and added a relief cut and drilled for a second bolt, looked like a really good idea for those arms.

Might have been me?
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=9833869&postcount=6
I haven't had any problems with mine since doing that, but I don't beat my rig like comp guys do either.

I have Dean's sway bar in the rear of my car. It started as 1 1/2 35 spline with a chevy stub shaft snap ring outboard of the arm. Dean turned it down to 1 3/16's if I remember right. It works really well. I have broke one of the stockcar products bar right at the end of the allen hole. I don't want to repeat that so Dean made me the solution. I agree that gundrilled or hollow would be nice. Light rebound and not enough swaybar at speed is very busy behind the wheel.

Jack made one for me after I broke my Rock Equipment bar. I'm close if you want to try it for rate. Assuming it's the same length.

http://davidgtaylor.smugmug.com/Cars/My-jeep/DSC5360/750036749_r6T79-M.jpg

I got my bar from Sway A Way. My original spring rate on my old 1 1/4" solid bar was around 138lbs. Was a little stiff so I got a new 1 1/8" bar from them and made some arms with adjustments at 19" 18" and 17" . Overall very nice bar was around $500.00 for the bar and collars. My old speedway bar worked good until I stripped out the splines on the bar so I just welded it to the bar and that lasted about 3-4 laps every race and would break again.

Where can you buy a steel internal splined bung for a sway bar and the torsion bars to go with it?

I too broke a Rockequipment arm right at the splines and would like to build a steel aluminum hybrid sway bar arm.

Sway a way makes the bars and splined collars that you can make the aluminum arm around if you want to go that route.

Where can you buy a steel internal splined bung for a sway bar and the torsion bars to go with it?

I too broke a Rockequipment arm right at the splines and would like to build a steel aluminum hybrid sway bar arm.

I bought these and did some fabbing to adapt them to my aluminum bars.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Chrome-Moly-Torsion-Straight-Stops,505.html

I bought these and did some fabbing to adapt them to my aluminum bars.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Chrome-Moly-Torsion-Straight-Stops,505.html

Nice, What swaybar did you use?

I think swaybars take a lot of work at the level we're playing now. I certainly felt like I was doing a lot of work when I spec'd out the rear bar for our car. We threw some of the calculating out the window before the SS300 and just put stiffer bars in it but it's going to get some calculating before we do stuff that's going to articulate it. And I keep getting the feeling when I make changes that it's not handling good, just better than before.

Spend some time with the calculators. I think you'll find arm length is a big deal along with the lateral spacing of the mounts on the axle. OD is a huge deal too since more dia = more stress.

Nice, What swaybar did you use?

Its a 1 1/8" from Kick Ass Offroad.

So for those who are running the currie bar...

Is the consensus that it is too soft? I am not totally convinced a front sway bar will be a good thing yet. Mixed on how it will work on the rocks.

I know it is hard to tune for both, and I am finding this out when I have been playing with valving in the shocks. That is a whole other thread.

I am running the Currie 36" universal kit in the rear.The links are near vertical spacing on the rear axle 59" WMS. I have had some issues but it is because of setup/mechanical interference. I have my rear shock rebound bleed @ .05 and no bleed on rebound in the front.Changing bleed helped a ton. The car feels great, but it can be a lot better. I run the Currie bar in the 2nd from the end hole. I can run it in the middle hole but it limits some articulation on the rear 17" shocks. I would love to be able to fit a bar to the front of my rig.....

The Currie bar isn't too soft for me. I have a 4000# car w/o drivers wet. I have a 22" belly height as well. Weight bias is 65%ish to the front....I need a Chassis bad to get lower and still use all my shocks. Until money comes my way I will work with my junk as is.

Like it was posted earlier. we need: bar length
Arm length
WMS
axle link mount measurements
This will give us closer apples to apples.

I have a pretty unique suspension design that requires a TON of sway bar but allows a straight axle to haul ass over rough terrain. I used a 1 1/8 bar uncut for the rear with 17'' arms mounted behind the rear axle and a 1 1/8 cut to 7/8 in the front with 13'' arms. I have 22'' of travel in the front and 24'' in the rear. Now it hooks up nice. All bars are from Kick Ass. At KOH i ran a 1'' speedway rear that sheared on outlimits after hitting a rock, and a 1 1/8 cut to 3/4 front striped because it wasn't built to handle the entire load of the truck.

Where can you buy a steel internal splined bung for a sway bar and the torsion bars to go with it?

I too broke a Rockequipment arm right at the splines and would like to build a steel aluminum hybrid sway bar arm.

I am going to make a batch of them here soon. Some 1", 1.125" that are 48 spline and then some 1.5" 35 spline ones. I haven't had any problems with the 35 spline aluminum arms but have had some with the 1.125" 48 spline ones.

I am going to make a batch of them here soon. Some 1", 1.125" that are 48 spline and then some 1.5" 35 spline ones. I haven't had any problems with the 35 spline aluminum arms but have had some with the 1.125" 48 spline ones.

Cool, I'll be giving you a call.

This might be able to help you with your Currie Idea.

http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/searchresultscorp.aspx?site=0&fullType=Price%20(Highest-Lowest)&text=Sway%20bars

I bought these and did some fabbing to adapt them to my aluminum bars.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Chrome-Moly-Torsion-Straight-Stops,505.html

Well how about a pic? You have me lost how you adapted those.

Well I picked up a new rock equipment arm for a quick patch...also bought a currie bar, but absolutely cringed when I spent 80 bucks on a set of their ugly ass POS arms (drawing my own arm now to work with the currie bar...I sense a small production run)

So back to somewhat tech...and by tech its really just show and tell








I am making a lot of suspension changes right now. Putting valving in the coilovers with light rebound and heavy valving in the bypasses with open tubes (low and high speed). Also going to a 16" lower spring on front and rear, moving the dual rate disks down a bit so I get into the secondary rate quicker...but I am not personally convinced this will do enough.

I have a feeling it will still be a loose whore when I pitch it into the corners...

So lets talk about front sway bars again. If you are running one, what is the rate in relation to the rear...is the front softer? stiffer?

I got a currie bar to put up front, but I am not going to do anything till after shock tuning this friday (already making a bunch of shock changes).

I tested with sway bars front and rear, front only, rear only and none. None just for kicks and it was a handfull! My car is 300lbs heavy in the rear and it works the very best with the rear sway bar alone. It does have a little more body roll to a point that the rear takes over, but it's very predictable. Removing the front bar stopped the rag-doll affect moving fast through uneven whoops. the front soaks them up as it articulates.

Scott-

Your last comment on the front bar giving you a rag doll affect makes sense...let the front end work and articulate if needed.

Hopefully the spring and valving changes I am making help. I'll post video...heading out to plaster city friday

You can also change to a single or zero bleed piston to make the valving in the coilover work harder. Some people like em some say they are too harsh.

And since we're doin show n tell, here's the one I got from Kick ass offroad. It is 1 1/8" at the splines and turned down to .800 in the middle which is what feels the best in my car so far. Kick ass sold me the arms and i made the little steel extensions. I know it doesn't have to be double shear but everything else on my car so fukit, why not?

Well I have the steel sleeves turned out but only doing a few in 1.125x48 at 1.250 wide and the rest will be 1.140 35 spline. This will be my new spline from this point on but want to take care of a few of my older bars and others who run the same spline. My 1.5" will remain 35 spline and be 1.5" wide. Once I have them back from broaching I'll know what to charge you for just the sleeves.

Well I have the steel sleeves turned out but only doing a few in 1.125x48 at 1.250 wide and the rest will be 1.140 35 spline. This will be my new spline from this point on but want to take care of a few of my older bars and others who run the same spline. My 1.5" will remain 35 spline and be 1.5" wide. Once I have them back from broaching I'll know what to charge you for just the sleeves.

Dean how quick can you turn out a bar for me?

Will call you tomorrow...

Tandi drove the ORAF 500 with a new rock equipment bar behind the rear axle and set the fast lap for jeepspeeds with an average right at 40mph. The jeep is better than it has ever been.

Dean how quick can you turn out a bar for me?

Will call you tomorrow...

Did you get it yet?

Wow...so I know sway bars are important, but after spending another day in the desert I was able to tune the car around the existing bar and it feels night and day better. I know its only a matter of time before I break it, and plan on calling dean to have one made...just have a few other things on the plate right now.

Dean-

Are your 1 1/8 bars turned down at all?

Just a question - are you tuning with arm length or just bar diameter?

Its a 1 1/8" from Kick Ass Offroad.

I saw that you had sway bar problems at the race this weekend, what happened?

Wow...so I know sway bars are important, but after spending another day in the desert I was able to tune the car around the existing bar and it feels night and day better. I know its only a matter of time before I break it, and plan on calling dean to have one made...just have a few other things on the plate right now.

Dean-

Are your 1 1/8 bars turned down at all?

Mine is turned down to 7/8 but I have 16" arms and my car doesn't need much bar.

I saw that you had sway bar problems at the race this weekend, what happened?

I haven't even looked at it yet. From what a couple guys in the pit told me it just slid off the splines, but the guys working on it just took the rest of it off instead of putting it back on and tightening the pinch bolt. :confused: I need to look at it to see what happened. I finished the race without an arm on one side. It started to slide out and the remaining arm started beating up the bypass.

That must have been you with the terrible body lean. Brent got 5 pictures going though a turn. We both wondered how you did that...albeit that it was ______ than most. Charlene has them for now. Probably 500+ but you may PM her to look out for them when she goes through them all. They are probably toward the end on a sharp left hand turn in the sage. Possible video also, but a LOT harder to pick from.

Cool race....way to go.

That must have been you with the terrible body lean. Brent got 5 pictures going though a turn. We both wondered how you did that...albeit that it was ______ than most. Charlene has them for now. Probably 500+ but you may PM her to look out for them when she goes through them all. They are probably toward the end on a sharp left hand turn in the sage. Possible video also, but a LOT harder to pick from.

Cool race....way to go.

I don't think the body roll was THAT bad even after it broke. Goodby had some serious body roll going all day though. :grinpimp:

I looked at the arm and its not damaged. It just popped off.

That must have been you with the terrible body lean. Brent got 5 pictures going though a turn. We both wondered how you did that...albeit that it was ______ than most. Charlene has them for now. Probably 500+ but you may PM her to look out for them when she goes through them all. They are probably toward the end on a sharp left hand turn in the sage. Possible video also, but a LOT harder to pick from.

Cool race....way to go.

I didn't race on the weekend, but I know on my car, the more we crank up the legerage on the sway bar, it doesn't improve the body lean through sharp corners, it just picks up the inside rear wheel... I still get some mad body lean

I just came across these guys

http://www.blitzkriegoffroad.com/products.asp?section=rear_suspension_kits_componen ts_sway_bar_tierod_kit

Pricy :eek: but could be nice for a specific application

I just came across these guys

http://www.blitzkriegoffroad.com/products.asp?section=rear_suspension_kits_componen ts_sway_bar_tierod_kit

Pricy :eek: but could be nice for a specific application

Check out Kick Ass Offroad, Dean's sway bar kit with 300m bar and 7075-T6 arms is way better priced and custom built to your needs. ;)

I don't think the body roll was THAT bad even after it broke. Goodby had some serious body roll going all day though. :grinpimp:

I looked at the arm and its not damaged. It just popped off.


I drilled, (lathe,) and tapped the end of mine to accept a 3/8" bolt and fender washer to hold it in. The little clips skeered me.

I drilled, (lathe,) and tapped the end of mine to accept a 3/8" bolt and fender washer to hold it in. The little clips skeered me.

Thats my plan. I actually left the snap ring off. :homer: It probably would have prevented the arm from coming off.

My sway bar from Dean is using a chevy 60 stub snap ring. I don't like the idea of drilling the end of the bar. To each their own its just wear I broke the last two stock car products 1 inch bars. I would rather gundrill the bar and run all thread thru the middle as back up.

you've got to keep them tight. I love Dean in a non-gay way but would be stoked if he used a larger spline vs. quantity of spline. Napsta, I had the same issue. You can tune your tires to make them slide vs. stick by cutting them appropriately. It's all about tuning:flipoff2: I followed you for quite a few miles at KOH this year on the way back to the 3rd check (main camp) and you lifted the inside tire 82 times. There was no way you could go faster without rolling, more bar wasn't going to help. You drove awesome and right at the limit of the car.

I looked at the arm and its not damaged. It just popped off.

That's what happened to me a couple of times with the Rock Equipment arms before I did the double bolt thing. No problems since the mod though.

you've got to keep them tight. I love Dean in a non-gay way but would be stoked if he used a larger spline vs. quantity of spline. Napsta, I had the same issue. You can tune your tires to make them slide vs. stick by cutting them appropriately. It's all about tuning:flipoff2: I followed you for quite a few miles at KOH this year on the way back to the 3rd check (main camp) and you lifted the inside tire 82 times. There was no way you could go faster without rolling, more bar wasn't going to help. You drove awesome and right at the limit of the car.

Would a front sway bar help with this?

I just came across these guys

http://www.blitzkriegoffroad.com/products.asp?section=rear_suspension_kits_componen ts_sway_bar_tierod_kit

Pricy :eek: but could be nice for a specific application

Blitz makes very nice stuff.

My sway bar from Dean is using a chevy 60 stub snap ring. I don't like the idea of drilling the end of the bar. To each their own its just wear I broke the last two stock car products 1 inch bars. I would rather gundrill the bar and run all thread thru the middle as back up.


Interesting, I only drilled it 1/2" deep, where did yours break? I stripped the aluminum bars in less that 100 miles, even cutting and drilling the second hole.

Interesting, I only drilled it 1/2" deep, where did yours break? I stripped the aluminum bars in less that 100 miles, even cutting and drilling the second hole.

Who's arms did you strip out and were they 7075?

I just came across these guys

http://www.blitzkriegoffroad.com/products.asp?section=rear_suspension_kits_componen ts_sway_bar_tierod_kit

Pricy :eek: but could be nice for a specific application

For that price they better install themselves, and tune your shocks while they are at it:eek::laughing:

Interesting, I only drilled it 1/2" deep, where did yours break? I stripped the aluminum bars in less that 100 miles, even cutting and drilling the second hole.

I don't have the broken bar any longer. But from memory the bar broke right at the end of the spline which was close to the end of the tapped hole as well.

I had em front and rear at one point on my rig. AL arms in the front kept falling off the splines, but it had a nice bend in it to clear susp components so that may have helped. Drilled and tapped the ends and put a big washer and 1/4" bolt in. That kept it on, but I ended up pulling the front bar because it made my suspension goofy in the rocks.

Rear bar is also a Speedway Bar, steel arms and have never had a problem with it coming off. Not even once

The way I make the arms now are with the broached collar that is 1.250 in width of the 1 1/8 bar and 1 9/16 wide for the 1 1/2 bar. With the kit this way you can make your own arms or I can sell you the arms ready to weld or already tig welded up. The other thing is I changed from 1 1/8 48 spline to 1 1/8 35 spline because with that very fine spline you don't have much time if the arm get s loose at all.

The way I make the arms now are with the broached collar that is 1.250 in width of the 1 1/8 bar and 1 9/16 wide for the 1 1/2 bar. With the kit this way you can make your own arms or I can sell you the arms ready to weld or already tig welded up. The other thing is I changed from 1 1/8 48 spline to 1 1/8 35 spline because with that very fine spline you don't have much time if the arm get s loose at all.

Can you post up some pictures of the new kit?

This might be a useless question, but what about using 2 sway bars? you could essentially run larger OD bars and limit the fatiguing?

And Dean, what about supplying a splined steel collar for us to weld in our own arms?

I can supply just the collar for you to weld from. I did very few of the 48 spline though on this run. I can see about posting some photos once I have tanekn them. I have a photo of the collar on the end of a sway bar I can text you. PM me with a phone # and I'll send it.

Dean

what size is the O.D. of the bushing on kickassoffroad sway bar. I just want to know if it will fit in the tube/mount I already have

what size is the O.D. of the bushing on kickassoffroad sway bar. I just want to know if it will fit in the tube/mount I already have

Which bar and which bushing? I'm running the 1 1/8" bar and bronze bushings. OD on the bushings are ~1.25"

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=545913&stc=1&d=1283408527

The bushing I use the most is for 1.5x.095 tubing. A plastic one can be made to fit what you have though if you already have a tube welded in. Pretty soon I'll have 1 1/4 29 spline broached collars too and they will be 1.375 wide.

Here is what my swaybar arms look like these days. I sell them already tig welded or in kit form. I can also sell you the broached bungs to build your own. The holes are at 16, 18, and 20 and are 3/4" holes. I will send them with bushings if you want to run a 5/8x1/2 heim like I normaly do but I had people who wanted 3/4" The photo show's it with a set of bushings held in with a bolt.
http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j353/66cjdean/swaybarphotos002.jpg

Looks good dean, was there still a problem with the aluminum arms stripping out?

Looks good dean, was there still a problem with the aluminum arms stripping out?


Problem with the aluminum arms is they are to easy to over tighten like an oil pan gasket. Once you over tighten them you are screwed. It seems most get an alumunim arm and they heard they come loose so they tighten the shit out of it right off the bat and then oval the hole before they even get to run them so they don't last long. My .02

I've only gotten two runs on mine so far, but you can see the additional leverage that I added to mine.

Well it has been longer now so how is it going?

My bar and aluminum arms are still holding tough.