I posted this in General 4x4 also. I am doing a frame off 78 TLC with a built 2F (as much as one can be anyhow). I did a TBI conversion (fuel control only) from a GM 4.3 using the 127747 ECM and a TBI adaptor I got from Spaceghost (yes, I am dropping a name :flipoff2: ). I built the wiring harness myself and have it tied into the factory harness. Anyhow, I got coolant and fuel in the motor last night, but it wouldnt start. It popped a couple of times with starter fluid and it sort of acted like it wanted to start once. I think I may have flooded it though. The service engine light does work and it is blinking code 12 when I ground the A diagnostic terminal, but nothing else. The fuel pump turns on for 2sec when you turn on the ign and injectors are firing some. I did get 0.44V on the TPS at closed throttle and it was around 4.9V at WOT. I am running a chip that was tuned for the TLC in the ECM. I may put the GM chip back in to see what it will do, I know they dont drive well on the 2F, but from what I have read it will let you start and idle. Basically, I am going to start a list of possible causes and try to eliminate all of them until the fucker runs. Yes, it is getting spark and Yes, the timing may be 180 degrees off, I havent checked yet. Anyone have any ideas? SOmething I am missing? Thanks,
Ricko.

Are you getting a fuel pulse? You can see it on a TBI. If it is flooded and it is getting fuel, pedal to the floor is clear flood and will stop the fuel at the injectors. If no fuel, I kinda suspect no tach signal. Are you using a GM EFI with a 7 pin module?

Is the chip designed to only control fuel? IE ignition requirements disabled? My TPI looks for info from the dist/coil for RPM input to control fuel and without it it cant run. For instance, if I disconnect the plug to the dist, the injectors will not fire... How have you accounted for this need?

Also, does the fuel pump run after the engine is cranking? If not you have a bad relay/oil press switch or faulty wiring.

Get a later FJ60 distributor(81 and newer) and mod it for the HEI coil. Worth the time for sure.

Originally posted by cruiserbrett
Is the chip designed to only control fuel? IE ignition requirements disabled? My TPI looks for info from the dist/coil for RPM input to control fuel and without it it cant run. For instance, if I disconnect the plug to the dist, the injectors will not fire... How have you accounted for this need?

Also, does the fuel pump run after the engine is cranking? If not you have a bad relay/oil press switch or faulty wiring.

Get a later FJ60 distributor(81 and newer) and mod it for the HEI coil. Worth the time for sure.

Could you detail to me the mods req'd to make the FJ60 dist. work. I am right in the middle of a conversion and need to do the dist. modification...

Thanks in advance!

look here (http://members.aol.com/customefis/otherdist.html)


-brett

Thanks dude but the pict didn't show up...any other info??? I search POR for an couple of hours and havn't found any real firm info on the distributor conversion... Thanks again

Try this site (http://www.diy-efi.org/) .

I have not been able to get that pic to load either, but it is pretty straight forward. You are simply using the existing distributor pickup inplace of the GM one. Do you have a factory manual for the vehicle the efi setup came off of? This will make things MUCH easier. Then you will simply be placing the toyota pickup into the wiring for the GM distributor. On the inside of my Small cap GM distributor the pickup has two wires going to the ignition module (also under the cap on the GM but unilke the toyota wich is on top of the coil.) What you will need to do is the following:


Get the approrite ignition module(I have an eight pin module to reference right now) as described in the article linked in my previous post. Now, using the factory service manual for vehicle that donated the efi setup, look at the pins for the module. I have on mine, a "P" and and "N" terminals that go the reluctor pickup in the distributor.

Mount the ignition module outside the TOyota distributor on something that will be a good heat sink as they can get hot and fail. Wire the module to the computer/wiring harness with the three(or four) terminals("G" "B" "R" and possibly and "E" if you have an eight pin module) and to the coil with the two termials("+" and "C") as per the factory manual. Now, where the remaining two wires connect, take the two leads exiting the TOyota distributor(you need a later style electronic distributor for this to work-ie 1978 and newer) and connect them to the to teminals on the ignition module labeled in my case P and N... There is an issue with polarity, but I am not certian which goes where but Trial and error will tell.

brett, if yer having problems with the pic hosting, email it to me and I'll give it a home you can link to, or host yer tech pages directly off ih8mud.com.

woody@ih8mud.com

I second the notion that the computer is not getting a spark signal. No signal, no injector pulse.

If you are still having trouble with the mod, I can go pull my dist and take some pics of it on the inside. I modded my 84 FJ60 for TBI with full ECM timing control using the stock dist.

One trick to this is that you must remove the mechanical advance mechanism... Once you pull the weights out, you need to secure the rotor to the dist shaft. I tack-welded mine, but if you had a really strong spring, that should work too. Before I welded it, it had some slop, and lead to really weird timing when you let of the trottle. :D

If you have access to a laptop, you'll want WinALDL to help you tune it. It'll tell you how the computer is tuning itself and give you some correction factors for a new .BIN file. I can burn EEPROMs if you send me the output.

If you could get me some picts, that would be awesome...let me know.:D

Check out this (http://www.tomquinn.com/lc/2f_fi/index.html) one for a few pictures of a distributor being modified. Any semi-electronic ('78 and later I think) distributor should work. Once you have the weights out and and the vacuum disabled, connect the red ('87 distributor) to the positive and the white to the negative on the GM ignitor module.

The Custom EFIS site mentioned in a previous post has moved moved and is now now at CustomEFIS.com (http://www.customefis.com). He has a really good diy page now with a lot of info on building the system and tuning. You have to get a subscrition for the diy stuff now, but it is really helpfull if you are just learning about efi and don't have a lot of time to figure it out for your self, or ask lots of questions on diy-efi.

Thanks for all the info guys. We got the distributor modified two days ago and yesterday we were able to drive the FJ60, seemed to run good. Bogs out at certain speeds but timing still needs to be tweeked and chip mods might need to be made.

Any suggestions on the timing???