Ok so i am getting my dually hubs milled to get that outer flange off so it will be like a single hub. my question is do i need to drill out the holes for a regular studs. or can i be a cheap ass and just get longer grade 12 :p bolts and put lugs on the excess that sticks out. do you bolt experts see any thing wrong with that besides that they are course thread.

if i get a regular stud what do i need to drill it out to to get a stud in there?

Don't use regular bolts, they are a pain in the ass to keep tight, I've tried using them on a stripped hub on a tractor and a couple times on a trailer. Even if you weld the heads to the hub they eventually break loose.

But if you do go this way, use fine thread only.

Another option, if you do use bolts, would be to drill the heads, & safety wire them together. You can get the wire twisters and wire cheap.

go buy the studs for a single wheel hub and be done with it.

Just went through this. You don't want bolts - major major major PITA to tighten.

SRW studs should have a .650 knurl, these should work.


Dorman part # 610 - 283 - fits 77-91 SRW chev trucks. 9/16-18 thread, 2 17/32 long, .650 shoulder, 15/16 shoulder length.

You might have to drill the rotors and hub slightly, I'm pretty sure they use a 9/16 bolt on the DRW ones, so that is only .5625 + whatever slop there is, leaving you with ~.100 interference, that might be too much, I've not yet been able to find out how much interference is 'ideal'. I DO know of someone who tried to fit too large a stud into too small a hole (no, it wasn't me) on one of the machined DRW hubs and split the hub material around the hole, so find out what size you need to drill it to from DORMAN (they have helpful tech support) and drill it to that size.

BTDT. HTH.

Chad

This is a bad idea,if this is a chevy hub, the flange that holds the brake rotor is welded on, this weld joint was never intended to also carry the stress of the vehicle. steve differential eng. inc.

Ok i have one of the hubs turned down. i have been reading more on this and i have a few questions. how true will the wheel run? i hear that the surface is not machined. has any one had one of them fail? they look like they are just welded to the hub?

"SRW studs should have a .650 knurl, these should work" by chad

is this with out drilling out the holes? i would think not

i will get some pics and all the parts i used to do it. i have been searching and there is not clear answer in them...well form what i see.

thanks.

TTT

to the qestion i asked above this...

When I machine the dually hubs I take a cut on what will become the wheel mounting surface to true it so that the wheel mounting surface is perpendicular to the axis of the hub.

Tom

We've done a few Dodge hubs. Just cut the outer ring off, faced where the studs will go, pounded studs in. I know the dodge is a one piece unit, no weld.

mine are chebby.

how true will your wheel run...or breakage anyone?

Originally posted by Chrisjeep7
mine are chebby.

how true will your wheel run...or breakage anyone?

if you were to chuck it up in a lathe and turn it from the centers and face the hub they would run true.

but i would check out the whole welded hub thing before you proceed much furter.

thats what i am trying to figure out...but so far nothing. it looks like it would hold. that flange is about 1" think. also does anyone know for sure if they are welded? i dont have mine at my house (at the shop) i think if you look at the back side of the hub they dont look welded? anyone?

Yes, they are welded, but who cares, they are plenty strong, you know 'most' steel wheels are welded, my spring mounts are welded, hmmmm, maybe one day this whole welding fad will catch on.

Just have the mounting surface faced, hammer in the smaller size studs and roll.

"SRW studs should have a .650 knurl, these should work" by chad

is this with out drilling out the holes? i would think not

Sorry it took so long to get back to you, they were 'improving the service in my area', so my internet's been down for like 12 hours

:rolleyes:

Anyway, I'm not sure what the holes are stock, like an idiot (yup, that's me, an idiot) I just drilled to someone else's spec which turned out to be not quite right, so I strongly suggest that you MEASURE FOR YOURSELF before doing anything, which is what I should have done. Having said that, I think that the bolts are 9/16, which is .562, meaning the holes is slightly larger than that (say .570). As the knurl is .650, that gives you around .080 interference. I've recently learned that the standard is between 3 and 18 thou. I can tell you from personal experience that 4 or 5 thous is not enough. So I think I would drill it out to 41/64, which is .641, which would give you about 9 thou interference. Personally I would shoot for a little more interference, but I don;t know what drill sizes would work. I do know of someone who split the mounting tab by trying to drive the stud in with TOO MUCH interference (no, it was not me). So bottom line is measure it and drill for 3 ~ 18 thous interference.

BUT CHECK THIS ALL WITH A MACHINIST FIRST!!!!

I do think that you will end up having to drill the holes, check with a machinist to find out the exact size.

Supposedly the surface that you would be mounting the wheels to is flame cut, and therefore probably not perfectly true. In my case, I had it machined flat, because they also put the centering ring on for me at the same time. All told I had 4 machining hours into mine to get rid of the outer flange, machine down the body so the hole of the wheel would fit over, machine the surface true, and recreate the mounting ring as well as drill the holes.

HTH

Chad

Originally posted by Hayraker
Yes, they are welded, but who cares, they are plenty strong, you know 'most' steel wheels are welded, my spring mounts are welded, hmmmm, maybe one day this whole welding fad will catch on.

Just have the mounting surface faced, hammer in the smaller size studs and roll. Try this on YOUR rig with 44's, let's see how far you ROLL.