I can pick between a AMC 401 for $500 and a complete totalled 91 corvette for $525 that has the TPI 350 and 700r4 trans. I am pretty much posotive on getting the corvette, but what engine should go into the CJ, should i use the chevy or use the 401 and use the chevy for something else? The 401 comes complete and runs good w/ a quadrajet carb, and the 350 has 78,000 miles

I can't believe you are even considering any other optinos.

CHEVY TUNED PORT

CJ

thats what i was thinking, but wouldn't the 401 have more power? the Chevy L98 tops out at 245 HP and 300 lb/ft of torque, and i want to use this for mud and sand. no rocks here in MI.

The most impressive thing about the L98 motors is the factory sweet spot. It makes all its power down in the low rpms. right where our trucks need it. In fact, stock, these motors don't do much good after 5k rpm. The fuel injection makes it smooth and thoughtless. What can be better?

CJ

In a Jeep, that 350 will make more power than you'll ever use. Trust me, I had a 350 in my CJ-7 and sometimes (brace yourself, I'm gonna say it) it seemed like had almost had too much power. Of course, my engine was built to run at about 320hp at 3300rpm and 390ft-lbs. torque at 2200 rpm. However, I didn't build this engine (bought it cheap already built with about 200 miles) and if I were to build another V-8 for a Jeep, I wouldn't build it, it'd be completely stock. It'll make plenty of power, plus, be more reliable that way.

why would you even consider a non-efi motor over and efi'd motor? definately the 350

Problem with the Vette TPI is that the accessories are placed very wide on the engine, vs a Camaro or other TPI due to the shape of the car. TPI fine, accessories may be an issue.

Bryan

For this time period the Vette and Camaro L98 motors accessories are the same. I don't know about later years. The Vette motor has aluminum heads too...BLING BLING.

CJ

Originally posted by Oxjockey
Problem with the Vette TPI is that the accessories are placed very wide on the engine, vs a Camaro or other TPI due to the shape of the car. TPI fine, accessories may be an issue.

Bryan

There are brackets for street rods that will put everything inboard on the TPI. Here are a couple of links:

http://www.hotrodlane.cc/ - same place as tunedport

http://www.tunedport.com/

http://www.marchperf.com/

http://www.zoops.com/

Here are some links to TPI info & swaps

http://www.jimsperformance.com/

http://www.customefis.com/

If you want to get above the 4500-5000 rpm point where the TPI tops out thier air flow you can change the runners, plenum, throtle body etc. Arizona Speed & Marine has large tube runner, ported plenum, ported base manifold and larger throttle bodies as well as EFI Cams for L98 go here:

http://www.azspeed.com/l98-0.html


TPIS has a book called insiders hints that discusses how to make TPI motors run. They also carry a full line of TPI speed parts if you need more hp for the mud and sand.

http://www.tpis.com/

Interested in getting better breathing for your TPI you can swap to a converted LT-1 intake that is converted for a distributor. This will get you past the TPI's flow problem and get you some more power at the top end if you also make a cam swap. Here is just one link there are others out there

http://www.lt1intake.com/services.htm

Here is a good book that will help you with the TPI swap: "Chevrolet TPI & TBI V-8 Engine Swapping Manual" get it here:
http://www.jagsthatrun.com/

Also should you want to go with the 401 there are other options to make it FI other than going TBI. Here are a couple of links for port injection manifolds for AMC motots:

http://www.rancefi.com/

http://www.customefis.com/amcport.html

Also here is a pic of an 1990 L98 Corvette motor and it doesn't look like there is problem with alternator location unless 1991 relocated them.

Oh by the way I'd go with the TPI. While 401's are okay they have oiling issues that need to be adressed.

it is out of a 91 so it is the last year they put the L98 in the vette, in 92 they went to LT1 w/ the crappy opti spark dist.

it is attached to a 700r4, I wanted to do a NV4500, but i think I might do a auto since i already have one attached and i don't have to deal w/ all the bullshit to put in the 4spd. Is the 700r4 a good tranny?

I've been begging this guy to sell me his 401 for over a year now and when he finally gives up and gives me a price, I found something else. :trooper:

Here's a pic of mine with an 88 bracket setup:
http://www.dana60.com/images/tpi4b.jpg

The accessorie issue is not a show stopper, obviously, but it may be an issue.

Bryan

damn! thanks nobody

The PO put in a PROM chip, and I was going to put on headers w/ flowmasters. w/one of those stubby K&N filters.

maybe change out the cam, not sure yet

I have YJ fenders so I think i have a little more room in the engine compartment

thanks for all the help guys! I've never posted a top and not been bashed :flipoff2:

Hey Darko, long time, no web wheelin.

The 700R4 is an excellent trans, and the Vette version is even better, this would be an excellent swap into you Jeep. While the 401 is cool and everything, you'll never get the performance out of an AMC motor that you will out of a Chevy without spending major money, everything for an AMC is at least twice as much.

Originally posted by 4Bangler
Hey Darko, long time, no web wheelin.

The 700R4 is an excellent trans, and the Vette version is even better, this would be an excellent swap into you Jeep. While the 401 is cool and everything, you'll never get the performance out of an AMC motor that you will out of a Chevy without spending major money, everything for an AMC is at least twice as much.

hey nice to see you! I haven't been to the 2track board, but i heard they were having problems.

I also wanted to do the chevy since parts are cheaper and the performane aspect too. I really want to run a nv4500, but i might do the 700r4.

what would i need to put the 700r4 in the cj7? I know i need a adapter to the D300, and I already have a high quality trans cooler. Would i need to do a floor shifter?

And keep in mind, the fenders in that pic are flared out a bit because they're not bolted to the grill. Again, it's not a show stopper, but something you'll want to factor in. I used the ealier bracket setup, but had to get an alternator bracket from an 85-86 Camaro because of my alternator location. I went with speed density for simplicity, used the computer from a 91, injection from an 87/88 with the ninth injector.

Edit: I got the majority of my info and parts from http://www.fuelinjection.com .

Bryan

Originally posted by DarkoStoj
damn! thanks nobody

The PO put in a PROM chip, and I was going to put on headers w/ flowmasters. w/one of those stubby K&N filters.

maybe change out the cam, not sure yet

Headers are something I have never completely resolved for my own application since LT-4's have D-shaped ports.
However, I recommend in-frame long-tube headers and that is what I want but it appears that I am going to have to custom fabricate them. You can use the block-huggers with no problem and Hedman has some in-frame shorties specfically for YJ-Chevy swap. I believe 4WD Hardare sells the Headmans.

If anybody knows what in-frame long-tube headers fit in a CJ frame I'd like to know.

Originally posted by DarkoStoj


I also wanted to do the chevy since parts are cheaper and the performane aspect too. I really want to run a nv4500, but i might do the 700r4.

what would i need to put the 700r4 in the cj7? I know i need a adapter to the D300, and I already have a high quality trans cooler. Would i need to do a floor shifter?

Stay with the 700R4 I think you'll be happier in the long run. Seems most serious rock crawlers have been moving away in-mass from manual to auto. The auto will shift much faster than you can shift an NV-4500.

Lokar makes an nice floor shifter that many Jeepers like:
http://www.lokar.com/shifters.html

I personally like the Art Carr cable shifter.
http://www.artcarr.com/catalog/p41.html?

Originally posted by nobody20


Stay with the 700R4 I think you'll be happier in the long run. Seems most serious rock crawlers have been moving away in-mass from manual to auto. The auto will shift much faster than you can shift an NV-4500.

Lokar makes an nice floor shifter that many Jeepers like:
http://www.lokar.com/shifters.html

I personally like the Art Carr cable shifter.
http://www.artcarr.com/catalog/p41.html?

Half way through my swap to an SM465 I almost bought a 700R4 instead. :D

I went with the manual because I was concerned with front dshaft issues with the front D60, abandoned the front axle due to costs, and the 700R4 was looking like a good idea.

Edit: With an auto and EFI you'll think you're cheating vs a carb/manual.

Bryan

i like that lokar shifter. So you guys convinced me to go w/ the 700r4 chevy 350!

would a dana 300 be a good tcase to run behind the 700r4, or is there a good chevy one i can use so i don't spend the $$$ on a adapter

Use the Dana 300, you'll be happy with it. A Chevy NP205 would be super strong and not too hard to setup behind a 700R4, but it's huge and would be hard to fit under a CJ, the NP208 aluminum cases are okay, but very long, the 700R4 is a pretty long auto trans to begin with, so the super short Dana 300 would be a nice setup. Look at the available adapters and try to find one that replaces the 700R4 output shaft or replaces the Dana 300 input gear, stay away from adavance adapters spud shaft crap, changing shafts in either trans or t-case is pretty easy and you save a lot of length.

Haven't seen any pics of you Jeep restoration in quite a while, how's it coming? (pics!)

Dana 300 will be good. Iits got, if I remeber correctly, 3:1 which would be good if you've got 4:11 with 35-37" tires. Probably need to go deeper if you are gonna run any bigger meats.

The 205 only has a 2:1 and JB conversions is working on 3:1.

I believe the short D300 came in Scouts and are getting hard to find and if I remeber correctly are only 1" shorter. Also, I beleive Tera said you couldn't put a 4:1 in the Scout version. Also AA's new stronger output yoke setup is not supposed to fit the short D300. Someone correct me if I wrong.

I've got a measurement of 40.5" from the block to the face of the output yoke for a 4L60E with an Atlas II. The 700R4 and 4L60E are the same length.

http://www.users.eesc.com/twist/jeepPOR.JPG

i cant get the paint right and it is too cold to finish it before winter.

anybody have any more comments about a TPI350 swap, 700r4 and dana 300? swap?

anyone use the bolt in chevy 350 motor mounts?

I can pick between a AMC 401 for $500 and a complete totalled 91 corvette for $525 that has the TPI 350 and 700r4 trans. I am pretty much posotive on getting the corvette, but what engine should go into the CJ, should i use the chevy or use the 401 and use the chevy for something else? The 401 comes complete and runs good w/ a quadrajet carb, and the 350 has 78,000 miles

I would go with the 401. Can you please send me the TPI motor? :p

Originally posted by DarkoStoj


anyone use the bolt in chevy 350 motor mounts?

M.O.R.E. & JB Conversions make some stout ones. I'd personally stay away for AA mounts. Or you could kist build your own like M.O.R.E. and JB Conversions if you've got a welder.

Originally posted by nobody20

I believe the short D300 came in Scouts and are getting hard to find and if I remeber correctly are only 1" shorter. Also, I beleive Tera said you couldn't put a 4:1 in the Scout version. Also AA's new stronger output yoke setup is not supposed to fit the short D300. Someone correct me if I wrong.

The stronger output does not fit on the shorter D300 because of the different bolt pattern. Short D300s available in 1980 CJs, the Scout's had the Star of Texas bolt pattern, which only complicated things with a 700R4.

Bryan

I'd go with the 350. The benefits are fuel injection and less hp. My friend had a AMC 401 from an AMX with Holley 4 Barrel Carbs and it made crazy horsepower granted it was tuned a little bit. He could run 15's in a 3800lb jeep with 35s. That's TOO much power to me, shafts would go left and right with the torque in it. That and carbs stall too much. Go with the 350!

and here is the donor

http://www.michiganjeepers.com/photopost/data/500/26frontleft-med.jpg

:eek:


JU sucks balls compared to this place:D

Originally posted by DarkoStoj
JU sucks balls compared to this place:D

You know that's not true when you're talking about the CJ forum on JU.

Bryan

let me rephrase myself, there are a lot of good guys in the CJ forum and i visit often but the mod is a jerk. I was mainly talking about the YJ forum

Go with the 401,... hey man its a jeep thing,.... beside you'll love the mind blowing torque of 400 Cubes.....Ask me how I know.... Sell the 350 and put aftermarket FI on the 401.

arent they close to being equally powerful?

Originally posted by DarkoStoj
arent they close to being equally powerful?
I don't know about the tree fiddy but... 401s are rated at something like 315ft lbs, and 220 hp stock, and weigh in just under what a 350 does. Make the motor breathe, and do an ignition upgrade and she'll put out more power than you'll ever need in a small jeep. The biggest problem with the 401 is the cost of building one......

thats all i have to say about that... but no really an atlas would take up alot of you lenth problems and if you going to 4to1 the 300and change to the stonger shaft twin stick... just do the right thing know save you money later...:D

the TPI is a way cooler motor, you would get more chicks if you had a corvette motor in the Jeep:flipoff2:

I'm running a 355 TPI in my TJ and have been pretty happy with it. You will not be sorry with the fuel injection when you actually climb stuff all your carbed buddies pull cable on just becaue of the angle. I made the mistake of putting TPI on a motor that was originally in a drag car project (Dart heads,big cam,etc...) and would probably just get a bone stocker if I were to do it again. If you need some hints on brackets and fitting it all in your YJ you could stop by my place (Kalamazoo) and have a look see. My TJ I think has less room than a YJ and I just fabbed up all the accesory brackets to get it to fit (even fitted my old york on there) but on a YJ you may be able to use what you have.
Dave
TJ W/355 TPI,sm465,np205,D60's, and a trailer to get it there;)

hey since your in michigan check out www.michiganjeepers.com it is my favorate forum and the best thing is that it is michigan based, a bunch of guys go wheeling all the time and there is close to 700 members now, check it out!


This is going into a cj7, i just said I have YJ fenders on it, but still have the cj grill and hood. You have a sweet TJ, I'd like to see it sometime:D

WOW, I didnt think we had 700 people in the whole damn state that actually wheeled.
Thanks,
Dave

yea it is a great site, you should check it out.


what about the wiring for the TPI swap? Do they make wiring conversions, or would it be easy enought that i could do it myself?

Painless gets some good press. Street and Performance make harnesses and I have one in mine and its okay. TPI Specialists in Mesa, AZ used to use Street and Perfomance but they said they had to many problems with the quality control on their harnesses and have switched exclusively to Painless. Ron Francis wiring also has harnesses.

However, since you've got the donor car just using the wiring that is on the engine, just tag it really well when you pull it from the vette and get the wiring diagram out of the vette shop manual.

401 for sure! Everybody's got 350's, be different.
Hmm, now that you mention it, http://www.colorado4x4.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=9;t=001843
OK I'll keep it on the FS page from now on.

Originally posted by Slagburn
401 for sure! Everybody's got 350's, be different.



So what's so different about having a 401? Pleanty of guys have 401's. They were so good that they quit making them.

401 is yesterday's engine. The TPI is a more modern motor and its cheaper in the long run.

Different would be a bling bling Z-06 @ 406 ci not a 401.

Okay, I won't trot out all the facts about how good AMC engines actually are, because you won't read them. And a TPI, modern? :rolleyes: It's got fuel injection. Other than that it is the same basic engine that has been known as the small block Chevy since 1957. So yes, the 401 would be considered more modern since it came out around '69! Except for the EFI part.
They are a lot less common in Jeeps than 350's are. 350's are boring. Sit on a trail and watch all the Chevy Jeeps go by...
but realistically I just run AMC's because I have a couple, though that could change.

I used the painless harness and it was VERY easy to hook up. Just plug in the harness to the motor, and run like 4 wires to the jeep. I actually stripped all the engine control wireing out of my TJ so that could be sold with the motor and then I ran a totaly seperate system to the TPI so If I had any problems I could isolate them. Has worked flawlessly for over a year.
Dave (Except that time the computer came unplugged)

401 for sure! Everybody's got 350's, be different.
Hmm, now that you mention it, http://www.colorado4x4.org/ubb/ulti...ic;f=9;t=001843
OK I'll keep it on the FS page from now on.



too bad he wants $2200 and it is dissasembled!!!!!!!:eek:

i'd take a $500 TPI350 and 700r4 over that anyday

You're obviously going to be happy as a clam with your 220 HP. If you know somebody that wants to step up to some real power send em my way. Yeah I want a bundle for it but have you priced 401 parts lately?

ya those 350 tpis really suck and are certainly not worth 250$ You should go with the amc 401 and give me that guys number

Originally posted by DarkoStoj
[IMG]
anyone use the bolt in chevy 350 motor mounts?

I've got the AA cradle mount holding up my Ramjet 350. Works slick.

If you have a long water pump:
(Unless you've stretched your frame or something) you've got to index the engine as far back as the mounts will go (there are 3 positions) if you want some room left for your fan and radiator... Probably not an issue with a corvette engine.

I also added a limiting strap to handle some of the torque. So far, zero problems.

HTH,
Jake

Originally posted by Jakesteramalamajama


I've got the AA cradle mount holding up my Ramjet 350. Works slick.

If you have a long water pump:
(Unless you've stretched your frame or something) you've got to index the engine as far back as the mounts will go (there are 3 positions) if you want some room left for your fan and radiator... Probably not an issue with a corvette engine.

I also added a limiting strap to handle some of the torque. So far, zero problems.

HTH,
Jake

what is a limiting strap?

yea i want to get the cradle mount, but at the same time I also want to swich to a YJ frame so I can bolt in a waggie axle, instead of having to deal with grinding into the diff pig:eek:

my plan is waggie d44 front either a scout d44 rear or ford 9" rear, SOA w/ YJ springs and YJ frame, TPI 350 700r4 and dana300, then my old body and everything else off my old jeep that i need for the new one.

I don't want to go w/ a dana60 or 14 bolt becuase i am only running 35" tires and I don't want to drag over everything. does anybody see any problems w/ this setup?

also what kind of driveshafts should I use, the last thing i want it to rocked a driveshaft through my xcase or something like that.

Thanks!
Darko

Originally posted by DarkoStoj



I don't want to go w/ a dana60 or 14 bolt becuase i am only running 35" tires and I don't want to drag over everything. does anybody see any problems w/ this setup?



Thanks!
Darko

Not trying to be a smart ass but the way I see it if you dont have the axles already dont limit yourself to the little ones. Not that you wouldnt be able to run with the small stuff but why not do it once if you can find the real deal.
Dave (D60's/35's, and I do drag over everything BUT I dont replace axle shafts like ALL my budds do while on the trail. EVEN IN MICHIGAN;)

I already have a Dana44 front out of a wagoneer and scoutII d44 rear

but aren't the axleshafts out of a d60 and d44 still both 30 spline? So wouldn't they be the same strenth? I can see how the r&p is stronger on the 60, but the axleshafts are the same spline

On the front wouldn't I be ok w/ a d44 front since the torque is being split between 2 axles instead of 1?

D60s can be had in 1.5" 35 spline axles.

Bryan

yea I know the front axles are 35 spline, but aren't most of the rears 30 spline?

These axles would also cost big $$$

I would have to go get the axle upgrade, cut them down since they are already probably too wide, and I would have to get differen't wheels tires for my 5x5.5 bolt pattern.


with the axles i have they are already at a 59" wms to wms which is perfect for me.

seriousely though, there are no rocks in MI and the jeep is going to be driven onroad just as much as it is driven offroad. would a d44 not be able to handle 245hp and 345 lb/ft torque?

Originally posted by DarkoStoj

seriousely though, there are no rocks in MI and the jeep is going to be driven onroad just as much as it is driven offroad. would a d44 not be able to handle 245hp and 345 lb/ft torque?
There are a few rocks in Michigan, I have a pile in my yard we could probably use to test ANY axle you can find. As for a rear 60 W/30 spline being the same strength as a 44 I would have to say NO WAY. Full floater and way longer shafts (flange bolts on the outside of the spindle) equate to much stronger. And you can do what I did an get some free D70 shafts and use them in your 60. Most axle shops just about give away full floater shafts after they hack up the housings for drag cars. I think with your torque and HP I could kill a front D44 in about 3 minutes. All you have to do is angle into a hill, turn to full lock, hit throttle- it will break a front outer u-joint. I have a friend with a 4 cyl. YJ with reverse 44 front and ford 9 inch rear. Give him a call and see how many front AND rear axle shafts hes used this year.
Dave ....you would probably be fine though I love to argue about it;)

Originally posted by DarkoStoj


what is a limiting strap?

A torque limiting strap is a strap (usually nylon or cable) between the driver's side frame rail and the top of the engine block that helps the engine from rocking too far toward the passenger side and stressing out your engine mounts and bushings. Probably not necessary, but with 400 lb-ft. of torque on a bolt-in mount, I figured it couldn't hurt.

Originally posted by DarkoStoj
yea i want to get the cradle mount, but at the same time I also want to swich to a YJ frame so I can bolt in a waggie axle, instead of having to deal with grinding into the diff pig:eek:

Yeah. The cradle mount I have is for a YJ frame. I don't know of any made for older Jeeps.

Originally posted by DarkoStoj
my plan is waggie d44 front either a scout d44 rear or ford 9" rear, SOA w/ YJ springs and YJ frame, TPI 350 700r4 and dana300, then my old body and everything else off my old jeep that i need for the new one.


You may wanna re-think your rear axle selection. Scout 44s have thinner tubes than Waggy 44s and are much more susceptible to tweaking. Besides if you're going with a Waggy 44 front anyway, you could use a waggy rear too and get the same 6 on 5.5 bolt pattern. You'd have to change one if you went with a scout rear (5 on 5.5 bolt pattern).

HTH,
Jake

Originally posted by TJTRUBL


Not trying to be a smart ass but the way I see it if you dont have the axles already dont limit yourself to the little ones. Not that you wouldnt be able to run with the small stuff but why not do it once if you can find the real deal.
Dave (D60's/35's, and I do drag over everything BUT I dont replace axle shafts like ALL my budds do while on the trail. EVEN IN MICHIGAN;)

I gotta agree. I am running 35" MTR's and and a Dynatrac 44 with ARB. Wish I had gone with D60. Dragging is a lot more fun than changing axle shafts and u-joints. I am going to bigger tires and I expect plenty of trail repairs. :(

Plus if you build your TPI your gonna have more torque & Hp. You said your also planning to run mud and sand so you are gonna be running in the high Hp/torque end of things.

Also, I would be willing to bet that after you get your rig built you'll want bigger tires.

ok you talked me out of the scout rear. what about a ford 8.8"? i have one of those too out of a explorer, or maybe a 9"?

I will AVOID mud, atleast i say i will ;)

darko go with the vette motor like i told you...that was the first pic of kevins vette i have seen so far....thos 2 that were in it are lucky to be alive!! as far as rear axles go look for a 60...you can find one..they are not as rare as people think they are...if you cant find a 60 get a 14 bolt and use that...they can be had cheap around here in miochigan and then you spen 2 hours grinding the bottom of it down and wha la you got yourself some bulletproof axle action goin on....or find a waggy 44 rear axle...but use the vette motor oh yeah and welcome to pirate:flipoff2: wow this is my first post in the jeep section in almost a year

Originally posted by UP_ROKTOY
darko go with the vette motor like i told you...that was the first pic of kevins vette i have seen so far....thos 2 that were in it are lucky to be alive!! as far as rear axles go look for a 60...you can find one..they are not as rare as people think they are...if you cant find a 60 get a 14 bolt and use that...they can be had cheap around here in miochigan and then you spen 2 hours grinding the bottom of it down and wha la you got yourself some bulletproof axle action goin on....or find a waggy 44 rear axle...but use the vette motor oh yeah and welcome to pirate:flipoff2: wow this is my first post in the jeep section in almost a year

oh the 350 is in there guaranteed, i want a NV4500 BAD, but since i have so much to do i will probably not be able to afford one and will have to go w/ the 700r4.

yea i also want to find something around 60" wms to wms becuase i don't want to have to cut it down.

Originally posted by DarkoStoj
i will probably not be able to afford one and will have to go w/ the 700r4.

That's what I used to think...

By the time you buy and rebuild the 700 R4 (which should really be done whenever you swap one in) you're gonna be well on your way to affording a NV4500. I found mine used for under $700. Another $200 to get it shipped and $100 for a bellhousing and I was in business for under a grand. And that's for a '92 Chevy with the 6.32:1 granny gear!

Say no to slush!!!


:flipoff2:

Originally posted by Jakesteramalamajama


That's what I used to think...

By the time you buy and rebuild the 700 R4 (which should really be done whenever you swap one in) you're gonna be well on your way to affording a NV4500. I found mine used for under $700. Another $200 to get it shipped and $100 for a bellhousing and I was in business for under a grand. And that's for a '92 Chevy with the 6.32:1 granny gear!

Say no to slush!!!


:flipoff2:

well the guy who is selling me the vette might have actually shafted me and sell it to someone else:mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: so if this doesn't work out i am going to scoop the 401, and i really want the 350!

as for the transmission, if i can find one for $700 that is the day my name is sally becuase i have been looking for one for over a year w/ no luck

Originally posted by DarkoStoj

as for the transmission, if i can find one for $700 that is the day my name is sally becuase i have been looking for one for over a year w/ no luck

Have you checked carparts.com ??? :confused:

Haven't looked recently, but they used to have NV4500s for under a grand all the time... :)

yea hopefully I will still try to work something out to get the vette engine

How do you go about shaving a dana 60? do you just take a grinder to it or what?

They're right that a D60 has the same shafts as a D44 but FF is 15-20% stronger right off thee bat. Forget all that wasted time, BUY A 70. 35 spline 1.5" shafts, tons of gear options, same ground clearance as a 60 once it's shaved and CHEAP, I found 3 of them whle I was looking for a friend, Cheapest was 135.00 most expensive was $200.

P.S. I've got a brand new NV4500 I'd sell, Chevy model, never installed w/ clutch and pressure plate, 1250.00 and you pay shipping.

yea but Are all the FF 8 lug axles?

sorry but that nv4500 is way too much for me to spend with all the other stuff ihave to get