I'm in need of some new wheel studs for my 6 lug 44. the parts monkeys on the computer at the store are of absolutely no help. I've searched the net and can't find any specs on Dorman wheel studs but have been able to piece together that your avg 6 lug 44 uses a Dorma 610-179 which is a 7/16" deal.

Anyone know the part number for a 1/2" model that will work ?

or point me to a site that has dorman specs ?

- jack

PN 610264 will let you use the metric lugs assuming you are using a Toyta rear axle and want to keep it all the same.

My crappy PN page (http://www.mo-4xtoys.com/Bones/Part-nos.htm)

thanks Bones I had seen your page before but I have a Dana rear axle also.

- jack

Originally posted by morpheus
thanks Bones I had seen your page before but I have a Dana rear axle also.

- jack
Damn, worth a shot. Can't the local parts mongers just look up the one that came with the axle, and up the size withever PN? Or do you have the slack-jawed parts guy :D

Jack
I just happen to have a dorman wheel hardware book and it looks like 610-165 is what you need.
610-179 7/16-20 knurl dia. .565 lenght 1-3/4 shoulder 7/8
610-165 1/2- 20 knurl dia. .570 lenght 1-3/4 shoulder 25/32

thats about the closest I can find that resembles the 610-165 with the 1/2" thread.

hth

rich

I recently went through the same thing when a buddies front wheel flew off on the freeway, the closest part store said that the truck should have had 7/16" studs but his had 1/2", the parts monkey kept asking "What year truck would have had 1/2" studs" I finally convinced the shlub to take the 610-179 7/16" stud box back to the shelf he grabbed it from and bring the the box next to it marked 1/2", sure enough, he brought me a box of 610-165 1/2" wheel studs. What a retard.

that's exactly what I was looking for. thanks Rich !

- jack

most part people are clueless when its not in their books...

you are giving most parts guys way to much credit.. most of them dont even know what a book is..

A good parts counterman USED to be worth his weight in GOLD.

now, they're all "screen-readers"...

I had a Nissan-dealer counter-punk ask me if my truck was 2wd,

or 4wd.. Keep in mind I was trying to obtain an electrical relay

for the a/c pump....

I blasted him, and said: What would the difference between 2wd

and 4wd make on an airconditioning part?????

his reply: the screen is asking for that info... I then said:

THE NEXT THING YOU'RE GOING TO ASK ME IS IF MY TRUCK IS

RED, OR BLUE!!!!!!!

you could tell his elevator didn't go all the way to the top floor.

I told him, even though the computer is asking for that info,

YOU need to tell yourself, "IT DOESN'T FUCKING MATTER"

enter anything you want, it will still be the same part..............

--oh well, today's youth............

--Sherpa

YOU need to tell yourself, "IT DOESN'T FUCKING MATTER"

I hate to add to this post.. I am in no way defending the local "Screen Readers" .. But what if it did? Just by some obsure chance that for that particular year Nissian 4x4 they used a heavy duty relay for the AC pump than the standard duty realy used on 2wd. Now you pay your $150.00 bucks for they relay and drive 1/2 hour back home and pull it all apart to find out the relay is the wrong size or amperage. Now you gotta huge hassle of driving all the way back and standing in line to return it... blah, blah, blah. All because he didn't ask you if it was 2wd or 4x4. Now granted this pertty far fetched but the way i look at it is.. If a 2 sec question is going to save me hours of agravation.. Ask a way, Screen Reader because i want it right the first time and i don't want to come back!!! :D

my turn - time to ditch the 7/16" studs (busted one, actually the goodyear dealer did)

He told me to bill him for labor - what should I bill him??

Also, I'd kinda like to run the 3" or whatever long studs to match my moser shafts in the rear - has anyone used one of the aftermarket longer studs other than a dorman? On my aluminum wheels they barely poke through with the stock studs..

what do ya think?

1/2 in. x 20 thread, 1 3/4 in. long, .565 in. diameter knurl, press-in, quick start end, wheel studs

MSR-8176

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MSR%2D8176

The end is probably different but without taking my front end apart I can't tell if it will work or not..

on second thought those are probably the same length as the dorman anyway

here are some 3" but slightly smaller knurl


Fits Frankland hubs, 1/2 in.-20 thread, 3 in. long, .563 in. knurl diameter, press-in style, quick start dog end, wheel stud set

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MOR%2D46220

hmm looks like I might just go with the dorman, just figured the longer size would make it easier to throw that wheel up that and have it stay on when ya start the nuts..

ok I have been to every car quest, napa, pep boys, autozone, etc. in sacramento and nobody has em! Now I just took out the old ones so I need some new ones to drive, anyone know where I can ORDER a set of 610-165 studs??

help!! :)

EDIT: shew, finally found em. Ram auto in sac has em if anyone local needs em..

Got em in too, forgot to get new lug nuts though - oops, another run to the auto parts store in the morning..

Does any have a part number and source for a longer 1/2" stud???? The 1 3/4" studs do not leave enough thread engagement with my Trailready Aluminum beadlocks! I need 2" long studs, minimum.

I've been search for hours trying to find a stud that will work.



my turn - time to ditch the 7/16" studs (busted one, actually the goodyear dealer did)

He told me to bill him for labor - what should I bill him??

Also, I'd kinda like to run the 3" or whatever long studs to match my moser shafts in the rear - has anyone used one of the aftermarket longer studs other than a dorman? On my aluminum wheels they barely poke through with the stock studs..

what do ya think?

1/2 in. x 20 thread, 1 3/4 in. long, .565 in. diameter knurl, press-in, quick start end, wheel studs

MSR-8176

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MSR%2D8176

The end is probably different but without taking my front end apart I can't tell if it will work or not..

ok I have been to every car quest, napa, pep boys, autozone, etc. in sacramento and nobody has em! Now I just took out the old ones so I need some new ones to drive, anyone know where I can ORDER a set of 610-165 studs??

help!! :)

EDIT: shew, finally found em. Ram auto in sac has em if anyone local needs em..

Got em in too, forgot to get new lug nuts though - oops, another run to the auto parts store in the morning..


CarQuest should be able to order them. I can order anything I want at work. THe dorman cataloge is about 5" thick and has every size of every part of the stud in it. If he doesnt' want to look through it, then take the book from him and find one that will work.

The rest of you people forget that most parts people aren't that smart because most people who know a shit load about auto parts would just work as mechanics and make 5x the amount of money you can in parts.

Personally, I like using the books better. The computer screens are wrong 30% of the time, the books aer right 95% of the time.

get the studs for a 79 or so Ford Dana 60. they're 1/2" and about 2.5" long or something like that. I've got the specs on my computer at work. send me an email

get the studs for a 79 or so Ford Dana 60. they're 1/2" and about 2.5" long or something like that. I've got the specs on my computer at work. send me an email


that figures..

http://rivercityrockcrawlers.com/TechReports/MoPower/axles/studswap/studs.htm

Bringing it back from the dead:)

Anyone have a solution for this? The 610-165 1/2- 20 knurl dia. .570 lenght 1-3/4 shoulder 25/32 is discontinued so I am left looking for a stud that will work in Chevy hub/rotor so I can run the same lug nuts front and rear. Plus the added strength.

The rear is HP60 with custom Summers Brothers Cromo axles 6 on 5.5 so re drilling these is not an option.

Basically I need this Stud but with 1/2 20 thread:
Dorman Wheel Studs: 7/16-20 x 1-3/4"; Knurl Diameter: .565"; Shoulder Length: 7/8"
PN# 610-179

any help would be greatly appreciated.

Tim

anyone?

I am a Dorman product manager. I will look into it for you.

I am a Dorman product manager. I will look into it for you.


Thanks so much for the help. Let me know what you find out:D

610-172 would be perfect but that has been discontinued. But these two should work also.

I have a couple hundred in inventory in Kentucky. So you should easily find them at your local parts store.

610-236
Type: Serrated Stud
Thread: 1/2-20
Knurl Dia.: .568"
Length: 1-11/16"
Shoulder Length: 5/8"

610-345
Type: Serrated Stud
Thread: 1/2-20
Knurl Dia.: .570"
Length: 1-7/8"
Shoulder Length: 19/32"

Hope this helps

Why not just check their online catalog?

http://www.dormanproducts.com/catalog/2006_hardware.htm

:idea: The Dorman website has all the catalogs online. *Edit too slow
http://www.dormanproducts.com/dispstatichtml.aspx?PageName=HD_catalogs.html

http://www.dormanproducts.com/catalog/2006_hardware.htm
1/2 wheel studs:
http://www.dormanproducts.com/catalog/hardware2006/143-148_Sec10_Part3.pdf
http://www.dormanproducts.com/catalog/hardware2006/149-154_Sec10_Part4.pdf

610-345 looks close:
1/2-20 Knurl: 0.570" Length: 1 7/8" Shoulder: 19/32

610-172 would be perfect but that has been discontinued. But these two should work also.

I have a couple hundred in inventory in Kentucky. So you should easily find them at your local parts store.

610-236
Type: Serrated Stud
Thread: 1/2-20
Knurl Dia.: .568"
Length: 1-11/16"
Shoulder Length: 5/8"

610-345
Type: Serrated Stud
Thread: 1/2-20
Knurl Dia.: .570"
Length: 1-7/8"
Shoulder Length: 19/32"

Hope this helps


Close:( Unless I'm missing something here. The knurled area needs to be further down the shoulder. The press fit is to the rotor not the hub, Hope that makes sense. And yes I looked in the Dorman online book:p

This is a pic of the 610-179 for example of what I'm talking about.
http://homepage.mac.com/greentwins1/.Pictures/610-179-b.jpg

You can see from the pic that the knurled area reaches down and presses into the rotor, whereas in the pic below of the 610-345 the knurled area would press into the hub.

http://homepage.mac.com/greentwins1/.Pictures/610-345-b.jpg

guess I may end up having to do a little drilling and use the 610-279. I hope this is not the case:(

Thanks for all the input guys. I find it hard to believe there is not a stud for this.

most part people are clueless when its not in their books...

most part people are clueless unless they can use a year/make/model.

I needed a wheel stud, but had no application. Just an example of one in hand and a mic.

The parts guy gave up and pushed the dorman catalog over to me. :laughing:

why not just get a knurl section to fit the hub and don't bother with the knurl section for the rotor?

why not just get a knurl section to fit the hub and don't bother with the knurl section for the rotor?


Hmm....Well I know that the hub and rotor assembly are supposed to be pressed together by the studs to be one unit but now I think about it rears are just pressed into the axle flange and the rotor/drum floats free.

Hmmm....

This has been onging issue for years. I think I'm going to drill and countersink the rotor in two or three places to bolt it to the hub. That will eliminate the issue with the serrations on the stud engaging the rotor vs hub. There doesn't seem to be any other option. A floating rotor shouldn't be a problem either BUT every front aplication I've seen has the rotor captured tightly unlike the rear axle. All this BS for a measly .25 to .5 inch of additional thread engagement for alloy wheels...ridiculous.