i have no clue what to do. how would you build a camo proof th350?

remove, and install with a 400 :flipoff2:

really though, call TCI or similar and tell them that you want the strongest tranny that could possible built out of a TH350, and they will do it for you. i know you have the $$$ :D

Don't call TCI, find a tranny company that works with TH350's for drag racing, they know how to build them to last behind 1,000 plus HP.

the weakest link in the th350 is the sprag/drum assy an upgraded one usualy runs a little over 100 , they also usualy have more room in them for atleast 1 extra set of clutches/plates. you will also want to get a kevlar band, and prob a reverse pattern manuel valve body. other than that its all little tweeks here and there that the good trany guys will know.

It's a good idea to get a K case. they are stronger than others(case wise). The K cases came in most 75-80 4x4 versions. easy to ID it has a big K right on it.

what does the reverse shift patter do for you?

what rpm stall speed converter works good for rock work?

Standard pattern P-R-N-D-2-1
Reverse pattern P-R-N-1-2-3

so if you put in a manual valve body you want that for the proper shift sequence.....ahhh 10-4

Originally posted by camo
what does the reverse shift patter do for you?

what rpm stall speed converter works good for rock work?
the reverse pattern makes it ezer to pop into nutral and or reverse (most shifters have a reverse lock out to prvent doing it on acedent) the manual valve bodys are the only way to get this.

some guys say that with a deep crawl ratio you want a high stall so it'll slip and make it ezer to stop, otheres like a real tight converter to maximise compresion braking.

personaly i would go for a tight one, good brakes, and a reverse pattern v.b. so i could kick it into nutral if i was in a real bad pickle..

by tight do you mean low stall rpm ?

Most tranny shops just buy hi-perf kits and use them to rebuild your transsmission and charge kit + labor to build it.. The best kits available have kevlar clutches, stage III shift kits, low RPM torque converters, etc. They claimed they will hold up to 700HP (ya right), for around $800.00 to $1000.00 complete.

Originally posted by camo
by tight do you mean low stall rpm ?

yha tight= low stal =tight coupling (almost like driving a stick)
loose = high stall = slopy at low rpm= lots of heat= bad in my mind.

a good example of a tight one would be a tci traveler converter
i have a trany guy that can get one that'll give me a stall speed of about 700 rpm w/ a big caddy 500

on a side note,
stall speed is subjective.. ie: the more torque an engine makes down low, the higher the stall speed will be..
in other words a big block will stall at a higher rpm than a v6 will with the same converter.

I've had good luck with a 1000-1100 stall speed converter (make sure you specify that you want the actual stall speed to be 1000-1100, NOT an 1100 over stock stall - most of the guys assume thats what you're talking about and it's a real bitch to find out you've got the wrong one after it's installed) , just make sure the tranny is built tight and you shouldn't have any problems... also get the HD sprag like suggested

Also make sure they clearence the case for the HD allison style converter....




if you have the room (and weight allowance) you might want to look into a TH400 - it's a lot stronger..... make sure you look into the HP losses too (unless you already did and thats why you're going with the 350)


:usa:

Originally posted by T1H5_TA3
on a side note,
stall speed is subjective.. ie: the more torque an engine makes down low, the higher the stall speed will be..
in other words a big block will stall at a higher rpm than a v6 will with the same converter.

THAT HAPPENED TO ME!! I had a torque convert that was for 1500-1800 well with the big block and the #6200 blazer with 38's it was more like a 2700 rpm stall. It sucked.

I could be wrong about this but it is my understanding that once a TC locks up you stop getting torque multiplication therefore with a high stall you get torque multiplication over a wider range of RPM. The down side to high-stall speed is HEAT, HEAT, HEAT and this will kill your tranny without exceptionally good cooling if your running in hot places. Although this wouldn't be a problem in Iceland or Antarica.

Continental in CA is supposed to build a good converter that drag racers and off road racers find near industructable.

I think by "tight" everyone is referring to extra clutches so you get a "tighter" trans overall, no slipping between shifts etc... HEAT is the #1 enemy of Transmissions...


:usa:

Originally posted by nobody20
I could be wrong about this but it is my understanding that once a TC locks up you stop getting torque multiplication therefore with a high stall you get torque multiplication over a wider range of RPM. The down side to high-stall speed is HEAT, HEAT, HEAT and this will kill your tranny without exceptionally good cooling if your running in hot places. Although this wouldn't be a problem in Iceland or Antarica.

Continental in CA is supposed to build a good converter that drag racers and off road racers find near industructable.

torque multiplication is at its max at stall speed.

Originally posted by YellowSub1962
I think by "tight" everyone is referring to extra clutches so you get a "tighter" trans overall, no slipping between shifts etc... HEAT is the #1 enemy of Transmissions...


:usa:
when refering to converters loose vs. tight is in referance to stall speed.

Originally posted by T1H5_TA3


torque multiplication is at its max at stall speed.

Thanks for the clarification. I drive a manual so what do I know.;)

Ok so where are all the good tranny shops? In N. Cal and down in S. Cal? The shop I use to go to is closed. I don't like the mail order idea. I like to deal with someone face to face.

I was thinking....FLUID! and a good way to keep it VERY cool.

I think GO2Guy is running some kind of accumulator system on his auto. That sounds like a very good idea for me. When you go steep the bottle pours more fluid in the auto making it harder to stall out. I think having some extra fluid wouldn't hurt either.

I think a stock or a little less than stock converter works best. Though don't go too low, you have the marlin anyways! If you go too low you get pushed around a lot.

Deep pan...did I mention a good cooler!

T1H5_TA3,
Do you know a good place in washington to have a th350 built at.
:usa:

i have had two guys build them for me.. crash is one, he's not a trany guy, but he is so anal that they turn out great, the other guy is a trany tech for lee myles trans...

You don't want a drag race tranny guy to build your trans. People I know who have done that have been unhappy with the way they shift. You want a desert race guy to build it, or just leave it stock.

I have stock valve bodies but I modified my ratchet shifter so that it doesn't ratchet in1,2,3 or N. If you just shove the handle all the way forward you hit N which is nice for stopping, all the way back 1'st for crawling. If you lift the t handle and shove all the way forward you get reverse for getting out of trouble. This is pretty nice but I would rather have reverse manual valve bodies I think.

Camo talked to my rebuilder...billet servo's and full manual, sorry I spilled my guts a said you drive worse then anyone but better then most when it suited you...full manual, billet servo's, 700 gears....lead foot 1st and your good...I said that won't be a problem for the dunes but on the rocks or with a cold beer put er in low and call it good....turbo 350....

You won't have a problem with a 350 from a 4.3. That's not much engine, even for a 350. With that said, follow the advice of the other who recommended the good sprags and clutches from a reputable shop that can build it right.

There are three types of TH350 case:

TH350's could be had in 2wd vehicles, and you can crack the front housing where it bolts to the engine. They are a thin casting. Look for a case that has the thicker tabs at the front, this will be a 4wd case. The standard 4wd case will have a big "K" stamped on it. Those are the most common. There is also a "HD" case (has "HD" stamped on it) that is a thicker overall casting and would be the most desireable. It is fairly rare.

Make sure you skid plate your case, the 350's don't have much in the way of webbing on the tailhousing, so skidplate your T-case as well. MAKE SURE you fully support your T-case, if it can move, it will break the TH350 at the back end. I've broken 6 HD and K case TH350 in the last two years at that spot.

I think a TH350 is a good choice in this application. The TH400 is bigger and stronger, but certainly not necessary with a 4.3, and it does take more HP to run.

Tim.

I had a friend that kept killing his clutch packs in his th350 and he ended up rebuilding it with collean (sp) steels and raybestos blues . The collean steel plates have some kind of grit in them to help keep the pack from slipping. Might be worth asking about these if you get yours builtup.

Camo

Find any tranny man you can trust and have him build that tranny ta stock HD specs. TH350 is a damn strong trans given it has been properly rebuilt and the updated sprag is run as was suggested elsewhere. You may want to consider when purchasing a converter that it must be NEW, and I recommend you call one of the many quality converter builders and you will be VERY pleased.

http://www.coanracing.com/index.htm <- very respected

Continental Torque Converters, P.O. Box 4292, Inglewood, CA 90302 (310-674-1072) <--- what I use behind my BB Fords and probably the best in world.

http://www.boyleworks.com/ta400/psp/Twisting.html
The above link explains a few things and might be worth reading before you make a choice.

the above said, you run a Continental or Coan converter built for your application I will build you a $600 Th-350 with a 2 yr warrenty ;-P

NoRM

When you get it rebuilt RUN TYPE F FLUID!!!!

No shit, Dextron II & III have conditioners in them to soften the clutch plates and make the tranny shift smooth (read SLIP). Check out a tranny guy's hands and you'll notice they're as soft as a baby's ass from ATF.:laughing:
Type F gives the clutch packs more grab and you'll get crisper shifts and a LOT less heat build up.

I had a TH350 that ran with type F fluid that lasted for almost 200k of HARD use in three different cars. And when I say hard use I mean 4 shattered U-joints, a twisted in two driveshaft (all in my 75 Nova w/Road Hugger L-60's), 3 shattered torque convertors (fist one lasted 8 years last two only made it a year each) and finally a hand genaded pump (all in my 84 Cutlass).:D

camo here's the deal run a manuel valve body but make sure it has engine braking in 2nd and 1st or it will feel like its in nutral. i think ati is the only one i have seen . as for the converter get a good low stall like the b&m traveler or anything for towing those will be low stall. as for a rebuild kit i us e the allison kits they use the blue clutches and are meant for hd applications. the accumulator you guys were talking about b&m make that too there alot of money but they also have a temp controll built in ......................later :flipoff2:

one last thing the type f fluid has a friction modifier in it yes i do use it in every thing i have.. but some people won't warranty the trans.... i don't get it ......so there's my money for the year (.02)

Don't get a low stall speed converter, it's too jerky. A little cushion is nice.
I've had both, low and high (1100 and 2000) and think right in the middle is the best, which coincidentally hapens to be what is stock.

6.2 diesel converter

I dont know if the 350 was used behind a 6.2 diesel (the 400 was) but they have a low stall speed and would probibuly be worh looking into


(<edit> th 350s and 400 use the sam converter)

Sorry to drag this post back out into the open if some were tired of it, but I wanted in on this. I'm running the same set-up as Camo. The one problem I keep seeing in 350s is that they don't like to run on their sides. I've ALWAYS run autos, but they've always been highly modified. It never had a problem on its side until all of the fluid ran out.:p
I've thought about getting my hands on a deep sump kit, then milling down the filter spacer and running it close to the bottom of the stock pan. Any opinions on this?
As far as the TC goes, I say go as low as you can. I, too, have run all sizes of converters and the lowest you can find is the better guess. I got my TC custom built for me by Continental Converters in way southern Cali. He built it to be in the 700-800 range. Higher stall converters tend to jamb up behind a rock, build up pressure(and heat) then launch over the rock. Scary.
I didn't know that about type F fluid, nor did I know they had a manual valve body that still retained its compression braking! That's awesome. A manual valve body, Camo, allows you to start off in any gear and stay in that gear until you shift out. VERY nice to have. Imagine: any gear selection, without fear of bogging/stalling the motor. And I would LOVE to be there when you mistake the brake for the clutch pedal out of instinct!

i am never tired of learning. thanks for the info as i am still doing reserch on building my new th350.

I just can't believe you're coming over to ....The Dark Side.....:vader2:

Auto's and manual VBs are the ticket - I have a ~2200rpm stall converter and its way too high, when I get my new engine built I'm going for ~1400rpm.
The only drawback to autos is they can be PITA to keep cool - but if ya need, I have a line on Setrab coolers that are very nice!

Here is some reading Material for you. It's all Mopar related but these boys can build some sheet. The catalog has alot of good info http://www.jvxracing.com/files/jvxcatalog.pdf

And they sell Chevy motor to 727 adapters

Originally posted by injectedEB
Auto's and manual VBs are the ticket - I have a ~2200rpm stall converter and its way too high, when I get my new engine built I'm going for ~1400rpm.
The only drawback to autos is they can be PITA to keep cool - but if ya need, I have a line on Setrab coolers that are very nice!

ya i am gonna run the cooler with the build in fan and shroud. i know spal makes them does setrab ?

Originally posted by twistedmetal
I just can't believe you're coming over to ....The Dark Side.....:vader2:

just cause i am coming to the dark side does not mean i will like it and stay there. :flipoff2: just figured i would try it out.

Originally posted by camo


ya i am gonna run the cooler with the build in fan and shroud. i know spal makes them does setrab ?

like this?
http://www.hbs-performance-offroad.com/products/Cooling/Setrab/images/920-fanpack-web.jpg
http://www.hbs-performance-offroad.com/products/Cooling/Setrab/images/920-fanpack2-web.jpg

they come with 2 6" spall fans

I WANT! I WANT! I WANT!!!!! How much are those? I've never seen them before! Gimme a price-better yet-gimme yours!

yup that is the fan i will run. can you get a decent price on them?

can't have mine :flipoff2:

~$300, I may be able to get it a little lower - thats fan pack with a Setrab 920 or 920-2p cooler (14.5"x6"x2")

Originally posted by injectedEB


like this?
http://www.hbs-performance-offroad.com/products/Cooling/Setrab/images/920-fanpack-web.jpg
http://www.hbs-performance-offroad.com/products/Cooling/Setrab/images/920-fanpack2-web.jpg

they come with 2 6" spall fans

That's a nice cooler :eek:

Originally posted by bigdude


That's a nice cooler :eek:

DUH

what ya think i was gonna use a crappy one ? :flipoff2:

I believe Kevlar or real thick plate steel are the two preferred methods of stopping bullets.:flipoff2: Alot of my friends have gone through Craig at CRC transmisions here in Thousand Oaks. I have a good ford guy but that doesn't help you much.

Been searching...... it was mentioned in this post but not really covered very well, what is the best way to keep the tranny working when gets on some serious off-camber stuff?

Originally posted by camo
what does the reverse shift patter do for you?

what rpm stall speed converter works good for rock work?

Actually the real reason for the reverse manual VB is so you can go from rReverse to Lo in a flash. No matter what the reversal of the Valvebody, Neutral is still near Reverse so the above statement makes no sense.:flipoff2:

Contrary to belief, the TH350 can be built to withstand the abuse - plus if you ever do a "camo" job on it, you can always go to just about any tranny builder and get a cheap replacement in the matter of minutes - this keeps you on the trail while your aired out Modified TH350 waits for a rebuild.

I see the Okie Boys run the TH350 and flog them every weekend. Ask anyone from WMS how they like them.

Doh! This is an old thread!:goofball:

I have the same question (since linked here from my duplicate post :rolleyes: ). Hell, I've even got exactly the same title! <sigh>

Also, camo, what did you wind up going with? I'm curious, though I know it will be way out of my price range...

Also, while people have been talking about keeping the tranny cool, you have to figure that out somehow.. what type of tranny temp gague do you run? And where did you mount the sending unit?

I am running a B+M Gague in my daily driver, with the sender about a foot down the line of the output from my second cooler (one cooler wasent keeping my tranny cool).
http://store.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/bmm-80212.jpg

Garrett

I decided to delete my other thread rather than scatter the info. There was some over lap but, also some new stuff in my new thread. So, I'm transferring it here, you'll see it below...
Edit: Oops, I left out the poster's names!

##########################################
Those that know me know I'm building up a doubler (finally!) and that I have decided to use a TH350 instead of the high priced and hard to find TH400 203 stuff. So, I'm trying to gather all the info I can on building a bullet proof TH350. Not for a hotrod or high horsepower application. I'm quite happy with my stock TBI 350. The *most* I would ever consider doing is a mild recurve on the ECM, maybe a TBI cam, and (unlikely since I don't like headers) Thorley Try-Y headers. Point being, there is no 400+ hp motor in my future so some of the bling-bling $$$ parts are not necessary. Problem is, I don't know much about the TH350 and what *IS* necessary. These are the things I believe and have been told...

1) HD sprag. (Out of a TH400 according to one source???). Not strictly required with my low horse application, but a good idea???

2) Art car reverse manual valve body. Again, not strictly required, but has benefits and it's much cheaper than the TH400 version.

3) HD clutches and bands. I don't believe I need to go as far as machining the drums for additional clutches.

4) Roughly 1000-1200 rpm stall converter.

5) HD/”K” case with extended struts bracing the 205. To me, most important since it seems that the only catastrophic failures I’ve heard of involve busted cases.

What do you experts (or just those who have researched it) say? Have I missed the boat? What else is desirable.

There was recently a “Topic of the Week” on this but the answers left a lot to be desired IMO. I’ve also searched here and elsewhere but the answers still are not clear. Thanks for any help…

BadDog

##########################################
Ok, heres my two bits, regarding clutches, "heavy duty" clutches for auto trans typically means one thing: more cluches (the part with the friction material) and steels (the washer-like shim / pressure plates) per clutch pack which means thinner clutch plates but increased overall surface area. The only real purpose of this mod is to increase holding power of the clutch pack. I'm not sure if you can really call it a "HD" mod for longevity.

Manual reverse valve body, cool!

1000 - 1200 stall converter sounds way too low unless you're really concerned about fuel economy. You're probably making power around the 1800 - 2400 RPM band and if you're not overly concerned with fuel economy, I'd consider at least a 1500 RPM or greater stall converter. Right now, I'm using an 1800 stall.

dkc1657

##########################################
Note that the K case is the common 4wd case.

The HD case (has HD stamped on it) is quite rare, but is the more desired case. 2WD cases don't have enough material on the bellhousing and can be considered weak.

However, I've busted 4 K cases on the back tailhousing, so make sure you run a good crossmember with bushings, and also use a brace on the tcase so it doesn't flex the back of the tranny.

Any good performance tranny shop should be able to give you all the good internals. Make sure you start with a good non-lockup case.

WOLF359

##########################################
You shouldn't have any problems with what you are proposing as Wolf said use a flexible cross member that is what usually breaks the back of the case is the frame flex between the motor and the t-case crossmember. I run the same set up without any problems with the "weak" 2wd case. Most of the case failures I've seen have been from the mounting being too solid or hitting the t-case on something, bottoming out drive shafts ect. I run a 1200rpm converter (stock T400) I feel it gives me better control of the truck with the throttle, with a stock valve body, for me it works trouble free and I used the same transmission for 8 years until this winter and a freind gave me one he wanted me to try so I put it in but it wasn't because the old one was hurt, I put new seals in it just to freshin it up but nothing was wrong with it and we are putting it in another buggy now.

YELLER BLAZER

##########################################
Cool, I thought the "K" case and "HD" were the same. Based on other info, it seems like there is some confusion as well on what makes a "K" case. Sometimes the access cover bolt bosses are tapped, sometime not and it used screws. Some have 6 bolt bosses tapped, but no marking on the case. Where do you find the "HD"?

Thanks for the "HD clutch" info.

As for the converter, it's definitely low for the engine power/torque curve. However, with the crawling I do, I thought that seemed like a good range. Higher stall means more heat (I don't need that in Phoenix at 110 degrees in the shade) and when really wedged in on a climb, I don't want the engine spinning up and then the tc tightening up for immediate launch (ok, it's not generally that dramatic but, that's my thought process). My main concern is (and the reason I through it out for comment) is that I don't know how it will work out with the much deeper gearing provided by the doubler. With the gears, maybe the higher stall it in order? This is definitely not my "thing"...

Thanks zeto! How the *F* did I miss that. I even remember it now that you brought it up. At the time I didn't pay attention to it (having only recently given up on keeping the TH400) and I had nothing to add so it just slipped by. I just didn't find it last night. I'll add it to my "subscriptions" for future reference. Maybe I should just delete this thread... At least this one is tied into that one now. Got some reading to do.

On the support thing.

I was thinking of using some 208 sandwich plates (at the motor mounts) and tying a brace back to the tapped 205 bracket holes on the outboard end of the 205 (by the front output). Maybe a second brace triangulated to the tranny bell housing? Also considered a supporting brace at the same location coming off the cross member?

For the actual cross member mounts, I had planned to use 2 sets of factory bushings, one at the 203 adapter, the other at the doubler adapter. That is, if I don't flip the 203 range box 180*. Now you've got me wondering if that wouldn't be too rigid? Maybe I should just use one set of mounts at the doubler adapter?

[Edit] Oh, and that's exactly what I'm talking about on the converter. I'm currently running a TH400 with a diesel converter (stall below 1000 rpm, exactly where depends on who you ask...)

BadDog

1000-1200 rpm is too low? How do you figure that? UNLESS, you are running a friggin' cam set for powerband to kick in at about 5000rpm, it's perfect. What rpm are you at while crawlin'? So, wouldn't it make since to have the tranny fully engaged during that range so as not to build up ridiculous amounts of heat as well as sit and feel the tranny trying to jump boulders?
I had mine custom built for my Scout, it was about 700 rpm. It rocked. Gas mileage? What the hell is all that blabbering?

Is this a HD TH350?

Thanks

Tom

Originally posted by tjs80cj
Is this a HD TH350?

looks like my th400

Looks like it says HD on the top, so I'd assume it was.

6 bolt tail housing/adapter mount and modulator location along with the pan dip indicate a TH400...

I am not sure if they are making them for the TH350 but there is a real cool bolt on bellhousing for the TH400 out there. Basically you cut the bellhousing off the trans and bolt a new, big HD duty one on to the pump bolts. We put one on my buddies Nova after he blew the bellhousing off his 400, it goes on easy and looks strong. It is great on the TH400 because they tend to break the bellhousing off the body. The TH350 does that to so I am guessing they will have one for it as well.

The cool part about the bolt on bellhousing is it is rated as a scatter sheild so if you grenade the converter you get to keep your toes.

i have never heard about the type f thing...would it be cool to put it in an older tranny? like 100,000 mile 727?

I was told you can only get the reverse valvebody for the 400, mine is a manual body but couldn't get it in a reverse pattern. Also heard blue plates are stronger than the kevlar. Never had a problem with the tranny on its side either and been there plenty...:D

Hey erik i had a 350 that was strong except the 2nd gear sprag broke that bitch a few times - i'd look into a comp. 904 - i know its a 904 but joel randall swears by those- Jesse

WOW! thanx for all the info guys.gotta love pirate4x4.:D

Originally posted by smalltimewheeler
I was told you can only get the reverse valvebody for the 400, mine is a manual body but couldn't get it in a reverse pattern.

Art Car reverse patern for TH350
http://www.artcarr.com/catalog/p14.html?

Unfortunately the only vb they list with compression braking is the TH400. :(

you are going to have fun trying to fix that on the trail :flipoff2:

Originally posted by BadDog


There was recently a “Topic of the Week” on this but the answers left a lot to be desired IMO.

I was a little dissapointed in that thread (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=121840) too. I was kinda hoping to get the sort of information that is in this one, which I hadn't seen until today (I was on my way to the Rubicon Cleanup when this was posted).

Originally posted by BadDog


Art Car reverse patern for TH350
http://www.artcarr.com/catalog/p14.html?

Unfortunately the only vb they list with compression braking is the TH400. :(
I've got some pretty fonzy stuff in mine and it holds just like a manual down some steep hills and even better i can go straight up a loose climb and let off the gas and brake and the truck will just sit there. Im talking steep to. I thought i would go back to a manny but was way wrong.

update on mine.

i have been working with TCI race transmissionns ( the company that you see in summit to built"a "rock crawler trans"they are just now getting done with the expermintial valve body that will be a revers shift pattern,manual shift WITH compression braking. they are also "tunining" it for my driving style. the rest of the components will be "camo proofed. bottom line is that even with this thread and PBB and offers of help from friends i didn't feel i had the where with all to build a tranny that would hold up to my driving nor advance the technology of our sport. Look for TCI to but together a package that does that. once i have the tranny arond the the middle of next month i will be happy to tell you what mods they made to it.

I run an 1100rpm stall and I have no problems. It's been behind everything from a 450hp 383 to the 327 it sits behind now.
Enough can't be said about cooling. The radiator is NOT the place to do it. That is actually to warm the fluid. If you have an external cooler and its not enough,try this,
Increase your plumbing size. Your hottest temps will be found at any place you have a restriction. Yes, you will most likely have to neck up to get to 1/2" but you will only be restricted at that point. You've also increased your volume by a large %. Someone better at math can figure it out. Try it. Works for me.

Originally posted by smalltimewheeler

I've got some pretty fonzy stuff in mine and it holds just like a manual down some steep hills and even better i can go straight up a loose climb and let off the gas and brake and the truck will just sit there. Im talking steep to. I thought i would go back to a manny but was way wrong.
Ok, I'll bite. What was done to it? Probably beyond my means but, it would be SO sweet to have that...

Camo:
I've been talking to TCI for over a week now, but they didn't say a word about your stuff. Must be Secret Squirl hush, hush. Guess I just don't rank enough glitter points. ;)

LOL! I must be moving up in the world! I just got an email from him and he finally says they have a vb just like you describe "in development" that should be out in the next couple of months. :D :p

I want one!

6.2 diesel converter

I dont know if the 350 was used behind a 6.2 diesel (the 400 was) but they have a low stall speed and would probibuly be worh looking into


(<edit> th 350s and 400 use the sam converter)


YES there was a th350 behind a 6.2 diesel K case that is what i use. the 6 bolt low stall HD converter and i also have the diesel gov. in it also

What ever came of all the new TCI stuff? Any updated reports?

It is available. I bought one several months ago and had it installed into a HD rebuild job. Haven't got to try it yet because I am still working on the project. My builder said he was impressed with it since he has placed 4 more since mine.

Dragging it BTT:

Those of you with the TCI Valvebody, someone must have finished a project by now - it's been over a year. What's up? I'm going to be going 4.3/TH350 in my Toy eventually, and I wanna know! :D


Just out of curiosity, what happens to an auto with a manual valvebody if it's driven on the street in DD duty? I can't say why, but it seems like it'd hurt the tranny in short order to me - especially for towing use. Just curious... :confused:

there's different types of "manual" valve body, full manual you have to do all the shifting yourself, the other you can shift into "D" and it will still shift automatically. As for what it will do on the street, can't really say for long term use but I think it would be fine. I surely wouldn't do it for towing duties though, its pretty easy to accidently skip a gear and there goes all your momentum. Do you plan to be towing with your toy? Sounds like a full manual valve body isn't really what you need.

i think you can use the 700r4 3.06 first gear in a turbo 350

update on mine.

i have been working with TCI race transmissionns ( the company that you see in summit to built"a "rock crawler trans"they are just now getting done with the expermintial valve body that will be a revers shift pattern,manual shift WITH compression braking. they are also "tunining" it for my driving style. the rest of the components will be "camo proofed. bottom line is that even with this thread and PBB and offers of help from friends i didn't feel i had the where with all to build a tranny that would hold up to my driving nor advance the technology of our sport. Look for TCI to but together a package that does that. once i have the tranny arond the the middle of next month i will be happy to tell you what mods they made to it.



Updates????

i think you can use the 700r4 3.06 first gear in a turbo 350


keep talking....i need more info on this :D

about the type F discussion.....

i have a used th-350 (condition unkown) i would assume it's always had ATF in it, would type F hurt now??? would it benefit me now?? or does everything need to be new??

I don't know about age, but I run nothing but type F in my 727's. Tighter shift and less heat buildup. Poor man's trick shift.

I'd think it would be ok, but you would have to drain and refill a couple of times to get all the old stuff out. That in and of itself is not necessarily a good idea with a high mileage trans. They tend to die shortly after changing the fluid out, especially if they have exhibited signs of slippage with the old fluid.

Any suggestions on what to do differently for a comp rig, as opposed to a trail rig.
I'm thinking higher stall. I'll be running a "warm" 3.8 and trying to zing weighted tires.
Heat management should be helped by short intervals on course.

i think you can use the 700r4 3.06 first gear in a turbo 350

Any facts to back this up? I've searched endlessly about this, this is the first I've heard of this. Or is this bench racing, wishfull thinking? Only mention of lower planets was aftermarket units that wernt much better than stock..

High stall converters aren't made for low rpm use. They can be quite unpredictable.

Yes, they will help prevent pulling thru the brakes at low rpm, but if you're trying to inch over that boulder, and you are steadily giving it more gas to get over, the high stall converter can suddenly 'lock up' on you if you are at it's stall speed, and suddenly you will go flying over it. Not a good thing to happen.

They are designed for racing, so the engine can rev up to it's power band before the drivetrain load is put on it to avoid the engine trying to accelerate the drivetrain & vehicle as it revs, kinda like a manual tranny starting out in 3rd gear. It will work, but it will be slow. Now, start out in 1st gear...much faster. When the high stall speed converter 'locks up', it would be about the same as downshifting a manual without letting off the gas. Something you don't want to do when climbing things larger than you. Rockclimbing needs the drivetrain load on it at all rpm, especially low rpm.

if I were to go with a higher stall speed on a rock climbing truck, I'd have one custom made. They are much better now in the quality. You can get a high stall speed convertor that will still allow you to tow with it, which was unheard of several years ago. it won't be cheap, probably around $ 750, give or take . I priced one for my truck a few months ago, and for a custom made 2400 rpm stall, it would run me $ 675.

i googled 3.06 "first gear" "turbo 350" and came up with this link to pirate4x4 http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-43531.html
pirate4x4 is not the first place i have heard of a 3.06 turbo 350 though, maybe i read it in a magazine a while back.

ya that thread was another "i think it will work" with no contact info etc.. I'd love for it all to be true, dont get me wrong...

As far as stall speeds, what RPM are you guys idling at?

i googled 3.06 "first gear" "turbo 350" and came up with this link to pirate4x4 http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-43531.html
pirate4x4 is not the first place i have heard of a 3.06 turbo 350 though, maybe i read it in a magazine a while back.

ya that thread was another "i think it will work" with no contact info etc.. I'd love for it all to be true, dont get me wrong...

As far as stall speeds, what RPM are you guys idling at?


Yager, it appears to be true. In the August 2005 issue of Truckin there is a writeup on 700R4 1st gear in a 350 done by SW Performance Transmissions in Huntington Beach. http://www.swptransmissions.com/

Anybody have experience with The 700R4 1st in a 350?

Also, is there anyway to shorten the TH 350 case length?