Ok, fellas, search turned up $hit so I'll risk getting flamed.

Anyone know what combo of calipers and rotors to use?

I'm keeping 5 on 5.5 at all corners and e-brake. So, who's got suggestions 'cause I'm f-ing stumped.

im thinkin an old cop car, or a car with a 9" period.:D

5 on 4.5...no work

Originally posted by Goat


I'm keeping 5 on 5.5 at all corners and e-brake. So, who's got suggestions 'cause I'm f-ing stumped.

I was gonna say 8.8 discs, but that won't work.

This may sound really stupid, but if I'm not mistaken WJs run 5x5.5" lug pattern, wonder if the rear brakes could be used on your 9"? Whats the tube demensions of the 9" and the WJ rear 44? Might be doable...:confused:

How bout lincoln rear ends ;) Im pretty sure they were 5 on 5.5 ? if not use their caliper brackets and calipers and find a rotor that fits.

@peeJ

If by an old cop car you mean an LTD then that would work if I had me a rear from a car. They have a 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern.

@JS

I thought that too but WJ and ZJ's run a 5 on 4.5

@Mike

All the years and models that I looked at have 5 on 4.5...do you have any particular year or model in mind? If you could narrow it down a bit it would help a lot.

Brackets are not a problem I can build those. I could use the front rotors for the rear but I need calipers that can work with a rotor that thick.

Originally posted by Goat

@JS

I thought that too but WJ and ZJ's run a 5 on 4.5

Brackets are not a problem I can build those. I could use the front rotors for the rear but I need calipers that can work with a rotor that thick.

I'm pretty sure that the WJs run 5x5.5. I've heard the perks of using WJ knuckles on our stock D30s, gives the option of easy hi-steer, larger brakes and the 5x5.5 bolt pattern, but I could be wrong on the bolt pattern, not sure. Anyways, I wonder if you could use '70s F-150 calipers on the larger discs. I think some of these were the big ass dual piston calipers too. That might work...

BTW, I think you can redrill the discs from a 5x4.5" to accept the 5x5.5, unless I'm :smokin:...

I am running 5x5.5 using 80-85 CJ 7 rotors and Cadillac El Darado calipers with weld on brackets. The axle flange has to be turned down by about 1/8" to slide the calipers over. Any shop with a lathe can do this in about 10 minutes per axle.

Originally posted by JS-Economos


I'm pretty sure that the WJs run 5x5.5. I've heard the perks of using WJ knuckles on our stock D30s, gives the option of easy hi-steer, larger brakes and the 5x5.5 bolt pattern, but I could be wrong on the bolt pattern, not sure. Anyways, I wonder if you could use '70s F-150 calipers on the larger discs. I think some of these were the big ass dual piston calipers too. That might work...

BTW, I think you can redrill the discs from a 5x4.5" to accept the 5x5.5, unless I'm :smokin:...

lay of the crack newbie

Originally posted by GPN Family


lay of the crack newbie

:flipoff2: I'm all out anyways...:rolleyes: :flipoff2:

FYI .. WJs are a weird 5 on 5 pattern. For my rear discs I used bc broncos kit and CJ -7 rotors with Caddy Calipers.. It was cake.. Next time I would just use the weld on brackets from a race shop. Good Luck.. RK

Originally posted by Insayn
I am running 5x5.5 using 80-85 CJ 7 rotors and Cadillac El Darado calipers with weld on brackets. The axle flange has to be turned down by about 1/8" to slide the calipers over. Any shop with a lathe can do this in about 10 minutes per axle.

So, the front rotors off a CJ7 and calipers off an eldorado? Thats perfect...any particular years of eldorado?

I'm not understanding the axle flange turning part...do you mean the diameter of the flange or the face, if the face which side? The reason I ask is I might be able to do this at work when the boss man is not looking.

Thanks for all your help guys, I really appreciate it.

Originally posted by JS-Economos


I'm pretty sure that the WJs run 5x5.5.


Checked the napa parts book...WJ's are 5 on 4.5.


Anyways, I wonder if you could use '70s F-150 calipers on the larger discs. I think some of these were the big ass dual piston calipers too. That might work...


The axle is off a '76 F100, I have the front as well which has 11 3/8 rotors on it that are 1.12" thick. So I could use front calipers but then I wouldn't have e-brake and F100/150's never came with dual piston calipers. FYI


BTW, I think you can redrill the discs from a 5x4.5" to accept the 5x5.5, unless I'm :smokin:...

Yeah, but the idea is not to have any custom parts that way when you need parts in a pinch...you can get them without sweat.

Originally posted by Rob Kosinski
FYI .. WJs are a weird 5 on 5 pattern. For my rear discs I used bc broncos kit and CJ -7 rotors with Caddy Calipers.. It was cake.. Next time I would just use the weld on brackets from a race shop. Good Luck.. RK

Sounds like your best option I guess... Sorry for my "misinformation".:shaking: :flipoff2:

Trust me boys the WJs are 5 on 5.. Check the BC broncos site.. It is very informative and gives part #'s.

You need to simply turn down the diameter of the flange to get the CJ 7 rotor to slide over it. I used the 80-85 CJ rotors because they are 7/8" thick and work well with the 80's Cadillac El Darado calipers. I believe mine came off an 82 Cadi. I cannot remember the website of the race company I got the brackets for, but I can dig them up if you want. It was about $7 a bracket.

Originally posted by Insayn
I cannot remember the website of the race company I got the brackets for, but I can dig them up if you want. It was about $7 a bracket.

Thanks man, I can machine my own brackets...so don't worry about finding the site. Thanks for all of your help, I really appreciate it.

I can verify that WJ are 5x5" pattern. That's right 5"....not 4.5", not 5.5",.... 5".

As for the CJ rotor Caddy caliper thing. If you go with 82 CJ rotors, and 82 Eldorado calipers, they work.

Or, go with 77 CJ rotors, and 77 Eldorado calipers. The difference is the disc thickness. The metric caliper (82) is also a bit smaller, and less expensive. The 77 is bigger, and accepts a bigger pad. The problem I have run into, is the fact that the 77 calipers that I've found, do not have any of the e-brake hardware on them at all at the car parts stores. The 82 has everything on it.

You can find the brackets at www.aa-mfg.com

Part # - AA-049-A for the 77 caliper
Part # - AA-113-A for the 82 caliper

Willis

www.aa-mfg.com is where I got my brackets from :D If the pads don't fit over the rotor simply rub the pad on concrete to wear some off. I didn't run into this problem.

I used some mid 80's f150 rotars and 79 devill calipers. It worked out real slick u simply install the axle, slide the rotar over the axle and then atach the caliper. Inorder for this to work u have to drill a hole through the center of the rotar so u can get at the flange bolts. Then u simply grind the pads a little to clear the rotar and your set.

you can do what i did...http://bb.bc4x4.com/attachment.php?s=&postid=28794

http://bb.bc4x4.com/attachment.php?s=&postid=28795


just use some spindles and d44 rotors!!!!!!

Ok, now i'm interested. How the hell did you do that? Few more details, please?

I used rotors from a 1981 Full Size Bronco ($28. each, new) and the calipers from a 1980 something chevy 2wd Van.
The calipers came out of a junk yard vehicle and came with the extra long brake lines. ($18.50 total, lines and Calipers)

FYI in the early 80s Ford and Chev trucks/vans the calipers are the same.

The rotors need to have a hole drilled into the end flange to match up with the hole on the end of the axle to allow for installation of the axle/rotor assembly.
The only other modification I had to make was to the calipers. I ground off a 1/4" spur on the casting, then bolted them on to my rear brake brackets and welded them all on to my 9" rear tube.
I also re-ran my stock Jeep rear brake lines from the rear brake line "T" above the gas tank to the frame rails where I mounted some brakets to attach the hose conection to my rear brakes.

So Far so good all under $100. !!

You can spend a bunch of $$ on custom "Racing" calipers and "extra long" braided brake lines but hey, I like to keep my extra $$ in my pocket.

Good luck!

@mrmacrro

That setup include a parking brake?

No E-brake,I'm runnin the same set up and it's bomb proof and cheap.All the parts are readily available at any parts store if you don't have the time to go to the wreckin yard.

Don't forget about the master cylinder,I'm usin a corvette M/C and I've got enough brake to stop a train and pretty good pedal feel.

Yeah, I bet it's cheap...but I'm gonna keep e-brake so that my rig will pass. Did you guys use a seperate proportioning valve in your setups or did you just plug and play?

I got "lucky" and the feel and modulation with the corvette m/c did not require an external/adjustable proportioning valve.I doubt Mark (macro)is runnin one either,although personal preference on brake pedal feel and brake biasing is a personal choice.

What's up with you're rig? Who is gonna inspect it for legality etc.

What Corvette master cylinder did you use? Seems everyone has a different preference in years.

I'm in NY so we have annual saftey/emissons inspections. They do a visual on the emissions for now and check lights, e-brake horn, all that good stuff for saftey.

I don't trailer my rig so I need it to pass the inspection. The engine swap is overlooked since the law is not enforced but parking brake they'll fail you on...

Originally posted by jeepmauler
I got "lucky" and the feel and modulation with the corvette m/c did not require an external/adjustable proportioning valve.I doubt Mark (macro)is runnin one either,although personal preference on brake pedal feel and brake biasing is a personal choice.

What's up with you're rig? Who is gonna inspect it for legality etc.

Is this on an XJ? If so, what year, with what booster, or will the MC work with any booster? And, what year Vette MC?

Thanks
Willis

Originally posted by Goat
@mrmacrro

That setup include a parking brake?

Fawk no!

E-brakes are for Pussies!!

Ha Ha...

E-brake mechanism can be had off a Lincoln Continental or so I am told.


Like JeepMauler I use the Corvette M/C (1967 with Power brakes - $25. at NAPA) The M/C bolted right up to my Stock Jeep Brake Booster unit. The only Fabrication needed was to find a bolt to fill the plunger hole in the M/C so my booster plunger was at the same depth on the new M/C as it was on the stock one. This becomes apparent once you open it all up and compare the inside ends to one another. I ended up putting a bolt in the hole out of my tin-full-o-bolts.
I use a Summit Adjustable proportioning valve on my Rear brake lines only ($39. Summit Racing).

I've been looking into doing this for awhile now, here's what I've come up with. I'm staying 5x4.5, so the disk brake setup from a '78 Lincoln 9" should completely bolt onto the '84 F-150 9" that I want to use (I'm redrilling the axle shafts). Here's a question though, I know shit about axle parts, so what all do I need to pull from the Lincoln axle to put on the Ford one? How hard would it be to get the e-brake cable to hook up with the 9"? What other parts would I need such as the mentioned proportioning valve? I already have extended stainless steel brake lines that should work. I'd prefer to be able to bolt on the stuff as I don't have access to a welder.

Originally posted by mrmacrro


Fawk no!

E-brakes are for Pussies!!

Ha Ha...

E-brake mechanism can be had off a Lincoln Continental or so I am told.


Like JeepMauler I use the Corvette M/C (1967 with Power brakes - $25. at NAPA) The M/C bolted right up to my Stock Jeep Brake Booster unit. The only Fabrication needed was to find a bolt to fill the plunger hole in the M/C so my booster plunger was at the same depth on the new M/C as it was on the stock one. This becomes apparent once you open it all up and compare the inside ends to one another. I ended up putting a bolt in the hole out of my tin-full-o-bolts.
I use a Summit Adjustable proportioning valve on my Rear brake lines only ($39. Summit Racing).

Fawk,I couldn't find this thread for the life of me!!
I did every thing macro did but I had to file the M/C mounting holes to the inside to get them to fit over the booster studs.Kinda ghetto but it worked fine and sealed no problem and it's worked for a year

Your not hooking the ebrake cables up to the 9", but rather the calipers. So dependent on what calipers you are using will depend on the cable as well as the length of the cable.
You will need the calipers, caliper brackets, rotors and e-brake cables if the length is adequate. You also have to make sure the rotors will fit over the flange on the axle shaft of your current 5x5.5 shafts. If you are having it redrilled have the shop turn down the flange diameter so the rotor will fit over it if it doesn't.
I bet the Lincoln is a 28 spline 9" so the axle shafts won't be compatible with the F150's 31 spline 9" and the lengths may be different. Redrilling or ordering custom shafts may be an option.

The lincoln is a 28 spline, and i was going to redrill the f-150 axle shafts, I'll be sure to check to see if the rotors fit over the flange. I guess it would be a good idea to get all the e-brake stuff off of the lincoln. So it really should be a unbolt callipers, calliper bracket, and rotors, and then rebolt them to the other axle. Do I need to worry about backing plates?

http://tsmmfg.com/

On some vehicles the backing plate is one and the same as the caliper bracket. If it is on the Lincoln you will need it. If it is separate it just acts as a dust/dirt shield and I found it unecessary to have one. Mud, little rocks etc. get packed in it.

WJs are 5x5" like full size GM 2wd trucks before this currnet generation of trucks which all use 6 lugs. The Full size GM B-body cars like the Chevy Caprice , Imaplla SS, and realted cars use the pattern too.

OK, so the backing plate is what is sometimes called the dust cover. I'm looking at diagrams ok a CJ disk brake setup and they use dust covers. Do you think I'll have any clearance problems using Lincoln rotors? Do I need to worry about a master cylinder?