Who has done it? Got pix?

I have an SM465/NP241/NP205 (Ford flipped).

I mocked it up the way I wanted it in the garage, installed the transmission, but had major fitment issues during my mock up.

I had the NP205 clocked flat & it wouldn't fit, so I clocked it down a bit, but when I installed it I realized how far I clocked it, & it still didn't fit (needs to move toward the DS another 1" in order to fit).
And even then it would be sitting 8-10" below the frame rails.:mad3:
To make it worse, I can't actually move it over toward the DS because my clutch only clears the firewall by 1/2".:mad3:

I'm thinking I might have to clock it down more & then raise it into the cab (Ie fab up a complete new tranny cover).

Here are some pix to give you an idea:

I mocked up the 241 & trimmed a bit, thinking the 205 would fit.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j95/mochamike/Scout/NP205/IMG_1101.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j95/mochamike/Scout/NP205/IMG_1100.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j95/mochamike/Scout/NP205/IMG_1097.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j95/mochamike/Scout/NP205/IMG_1096.jpg

Clutch slave:
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j95/mochamike/Scout/NP205/IMG_1098.jpg

I guess I could cut out the engine mounts & move it over 2-3" toward the PS & then have the drivetrain sit cock-eyed.:shaking:

Similar issues.... but differfent rig. '80 SII. I cut out the side of the trans tunnel, part of the top of the trans tunnel and some of the floor board to tuck my 203/205 up between the frame rails. The entire thing sits above the bottoms of the frame rails.

I ran to the store & got some brain juice (see pic).
After I had a few, I reclocked the 241 & 205 & it fits better, but still too low....
It's between the frame rails, but the clutch is now wedge on the firewall.

I was thinking I could lower the engine mounts 2-3" which would put the clutch lever below the body... I could then clock both tcases flat.
But then my engine/tranny would be lower.

After getting it where it is now.. I'm leaning toward doing a bunch of sheetmetal work..... Cutting up the floor/tranny cover, as well as the area under my gas pedal for the clutch lever.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j95/mochamike/Scout/NP205/IMG_1102.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j95/mochamike/Scout/NP205/IMG_1103.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j95/mochamike/Scout/NP205/IMG_1104.jpg

Check out post #87 on my build and you can see how my 205 just fits. I know different setups though. th350 203/205 all chevy. That ford case flipped has a lot hanging down. Why not a chevy 205? I also made new cab mounts that raise the body up 2"s. The only cutting I did to the firewall, was to clear the headers. I also am running the exhaust down the drivers side, so I think it should have room for the clutch linkage.

Mike,

I had similar issues when I did my 203/205 doubler. When I did the initial mock up, the 203/205 barely fit (if the transmission was perfectly centered between the framerails)

Unfortunately for me to get the PSD crammed in there I had to offset it about 1.5" to the passenger side, so now my 205 hit the frame rail.

I ended up notching and plating the frame to get a little extra room on the 205. I had to let it hang down a bit for front driveshaft clearance (I will need a 2 piece driveshaft to clear the oil pan)

I looks like it hangs down a lot, but it's really not too bad. I may raise it some when I add another crossmember to support the 203/205 doubler, but with a really short rear driveshaft, I need it angled down to help with the rear driveline angles.

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After installing & uninstalling it 12+ times today I'm getting closer.

I think I'm going to notch the frame similar to guidolyons.

I got it way up in there, but my drivetrain is cockeyed, and clutch slave & header are both rubbing against the firewall.
I think if I notch it by 2-3" that will make it easier...
I might get away without notching the firewall for the clutch slave.

This was my last attempt, however I could only get 5 of 6 bolts lined up with 241 to SM465 adapter. Who designed them non symetrical?


http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j95/mochamike/Scout/NP205/IMG_1107.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j95/mochamike/Scout/NP205/IMG_1105.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j95/mochamike/Scout/NP205/IMG_1105.jpg

It must be how you got the motor centered...

350, sm465, klune, 205....

Didn't notch the frame or cut out the floor board. Only cut at the firewall a bit for the exhaust.

The t/c does hang below the bottom of the frame some, and the driveline angles are better ...

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c101/scout254/PB010022-1.jpg

Lower bump in skid plate for t/c
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c101/scout254/PB010026.jpg

Scout254, looking at the pics, your drivetrain is offset more to the driver's side than mine or MochaMike's. The other thing that is causing him some fitment issues in the shape of the flipped 205.

Mike, I cut and ground off the extra mounting ears on my 205 in an attempt to get it to fit with out notching the frame, you might do the same to minimize what's hanging down below the frame rail.

I know you've put some time, money, and effort into flipping the Ford 205. Any chance of finding a round pattern Chevy 205?

Cut and paste of some pics I had. Not sure if the GM 205 will help or hurt.

Mike get some numbers of off the frame rail to the motor, tranny, something up. I know it will be a tight fit, but not that tight. I'm running a 2" body lift too.

I'll get some measurements today.

My engine mounts are perfectly level with the frame rail.
Here is a pic from when I was installing them last summer:

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j95/mochamike/Scout/IMG_3873.jpg

The stock Scout drivetrain is ~3" offset to the passenger side. Your transmission pics look like you're still offset to the passengerside quite a bit. I'd seriously look at notching the firewall and reworking the motormounts to see if you can get the 205 in there with out notching the frame.

The only reason I notched the frame was I had nothing else to move, the firewall was cut, the PSD was over toward the driver's side as much close as I could get it and it still wouldn't fit.

Your last mock up looks pretty close, but that's with the clutch linkage jammed into the transmission tunnel and everything cocked off at an angle?

2.72x1.96 = 5.33 low-low :grinpimp: it will be worth it.

I just took some measurements & found something odd/I didn't know.

Frame rails in engine area are 29.5" wide (inside to inside), while frame rails by the rear of the tranny are 28.5" wide.

My engine is offset toward the PS quite a bit.
The tranny output it 12.25" from the frame rail (PS) & 16.25" from the DS.
(this is with the driveline sitting almost straight, with the clutch slave clearing the frame rail by 1/2".

NP205 is roughly 14" from center input to edge of case.

Like I said before, the engine mounts are parallel with the frame rails (the 2 of the 3 triangle mount bolts are right at the top edge of the frame rail.
Mounting surface for these bolts are roughly 5" (PS) & 8" (DS) from the frame rail.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j95/mochamike/Scout/IMG_1117.jpg

I think clocking the case a bit more (rather than flat), along with notching the frame is going to be the least amount of work...
VS.
Moving the engine mounts toward the DS 3", then cutting out the firewall, & re-doing my gas pedal.

Borrowing my buddies Plasma tomorrow. :bounce2:

Borrowing my buddies Plasma tomorrow. :bounce2:

Sounds like the frame is getting modified. post up some damage pics:grinpimp:

Couldn't get the plasma (was in use by another friend).
So I broke out the torch...

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j95/mochamike/Scout/NP205/IMG_1127.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j95/mochamike/Scout/NP205/IMG_1128.jpg

Got the drivetrain to sit straight... but it's still kinda low/rear is high...
I'm going to working on more clocking options...

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j95/mochamike/Scout/NP205/IMG_1129.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j95/mochamike/Scout/NP205/IMG_1130.jpg

Holy hatchet man there. Next time use a straight edge as a guide to hold your hand steady. A piece of C channel or tube works wonders. Also point the torch where you want to go too.


http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j95/mochamike/Scout/NP205/IMG_1128.jpg


I've been using the Dewalt plasma cutter lately.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j95/mochamike/Scout/NP205/IMG_1128.jpg
Maybe have a beer or two first to calm your nerves! Yikes! :D

Nothing a grinder & some steel won't fix.

heres my 800 set up,400/203/205 with a flat belly.nothings below the frame rails

Frame rails in engine area are 29.5" wide (inside to inside), while frame rails by the rear of the tranny are 28.5" wide.



I think your frame is tweaked. The frame rails should be parallel at all points.

Also, if you are notching to make sure the t-case fits, make sure you notch enough frame backwards to allow for the t-case to be put into position and then slid forward. (I didn't read everything so I don't know if you planned for this...)

Nothing a grinder & some steel won't fix.

Thats what I love about steel:smokin: Just give ya some chit.

Scout dude has a good point, otherwise you would have to drop the tranny crossmemeber and let the whole thing swing down to pull the t/c

That may be he case.
But it's probably been that way for a while.
My rocksliders are tied to the cage & frame.

There is extra room...
I'm using bolts vs studs on the 241, so it can rotate if needed.

Unfortunately, the best clocking location for the 241 only allows for 5 of the 6 bolts.

Is that such a big deal?

That may be he case.
But it's probably been that way for a while.
My rocksliders are tied to the cage & frame.

There is extra room...
I'm using bolts vs studs on the 241, so it can rotate if needed.

Unfortunately, the best clocking location for the 241 only allows for 5 of the 6 bolts.

Is that such a big deal?

I thought that seemed odd on your frame measurements, too.

5 out of 6 should be fine, or you can drill a new hole/elongate the existing 6th hole to get the last bolt in.
:beer:

I have a bare 80 frame out back. Just measured it and the measurements were: Front shackle mounts-29", Front crossmember- 29 1/4", Everything from the transmission crossmember back is 29"s. Even if your frame was straight, it doesn't look like you would have enough room for your tcase. I would try and use all six bolts if at all possible.

After a couple hours of grinding the frame & cutting/grinding some plate I got it close to ready to weld (still need to do some fine tune grinding).

Most of the new plate is 1/4"... The largest plate (#3) is 5/16", as is the plate that will be on the bottom.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j95/mochamike/Scout/NP205/IMG_1135.jpg

The picture is deceiving... All the plates fit snug for good welds (however #3 needs a plate/spacer/filler for the top box rock slider).

After a couple hours of grinding the frame & cutting/grinding some plate I got it close to ready to weld (still need to do some fine tune grinding).

Most of the new plate is 1/4"... The largest plate (#3) is 5/16", as is the plate that will be on the bottom.


The picture is deceiving... All the plates fit snug for good welds (however #3 needs a plate/spacer/filler for the top box rock slider).

Are you going to end up with a flat bottom, or is the 205 going to stick down a bit?

I was able to get the 241 up, the NP205 will hang a bit, but it should just be the mounting flange (like 1-3").

If your not going to use that mounting flange I would attack it with a portaband and a 4 inch grinder

Mike, I cut and ground off the extra mounting ears on my 205 in an attempt to get it to fit with out notching the frame, you might do the same to minimize what's hanging down below the frame rail.

^^^:flipoff2:
If your not going to use that mounting flange I would attack it with a portaband and a 4 inch grinder

Mine is in without cutting the frame. It is a driver drop and the engine is one inch off center, flat across the bottom of the frame. The tunnel took a bit of cutting.

Mine is in without cutting the frame. It is a driver drop and the engine is one inch off center, flat across the bottom of the frame. The tunnel took a bit of cutting.

Dan, I'm glad to see you are alive and kickin':D

Don;t you have some pics to share? Or do I have to dig through your build thread (which hasn't been updated in year:p) and find them? :flipoff2:

I got the setup into my 800B without frame choppage. TBI 350/SM465/203/205 and smooth underbelly. Of course that is with new mounts all the way around and generous floor trimming.

http://marcella.no-ip.info:1723/Album/ImageArchive/trucks/album.ashx?albummode=Preview&albumpath=%2falbum%2fimagearchive%2ftrucks%2fian%2 7s+tan+scout%2fdoubler+install%2fdscf0087.jpg

Dan, I'm glad to see you are alive and kickin':D

Don;t you have some pics to share? Or do I have to dig through your build thread (which hasn't been updated in year:p) and find them? :flipoff2:

ha! I need to get my red star back, then some pics.

I got the setup into my 800B without frame choppage. TBI 350/SM465/203/205 and smooth underbelly. Of course that is with new mounts all the way around and generous floor trimming.

http://marcella.no-ip.info:1723/Album/ImageArchive/trucks/album.ashx?albummode=Preview&albumpath=%2falbum%2fimagearchive%2ftrucks%2fian%2 7s+tan+scout%2fdoubler+install%2fdscf0087.jpg

I think the big difference between your setup, mine and others and Mocha's is we are using a 203 range box. The 241 range box does not appear to be nearly as compact as the 203.

I was looking at the 205 so much I missed the 241 ear on the other side.:shaking: It seems that the 241 could be clocked around enough to get more clearance on the driver side since it is round pattern and shift the whole drive train over to eliminate the need of frame mods? Are the 241's always engaged or can you shift it in and out? I am not seeing any linkage, which would be the only thing to mess up the clocking idea?

The 241 is empty until I figure out clocking.

The only thing I don't like about this set up is that the adapter has to be connected to the N205 first, then you connect 1/2 a case & shift rail to the adapter.

So, in order to adjust the clocking, you have to take the 241 cover/adapter apart each time.

Is it in yet? Got pics?

It's been slow progress this week (life kinda got in the way).

Just finished welding up the NP205 bracket.
I'm going to shave the bottom mounting surface.

Still have to pull it back out & install the 241 guts, as well as swap the T-case adapter for the new one I just got.

June 26th run is iffy (too much crap to get done on it).

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j95/mochamike/Scout/NP205/IMG_1155.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j95/mochamike/Scout/NP205/IMG_1157.jpg

It's been slow progress this week (life kinda got in the way).

Just finished welding up the NP205 bracket.
I'm going to shave the bottom mounting surface.

Still have to pull it back out & install the 241 guts, as well as swap the T-case adapter for the new one I just got.

June 26th run is iffy (too much crap to get done on it).

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j95/mochamike/Scout/NP205/IMG_1155.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j95/mochamike/Scout/NP205/IMG_1157.jpg

mike any chance you have some pics of where you mounted that bracket to the case,front and rear? how much can you loose on what's hanging down?looks like it would take a beating in any rock situation.maybe the pic is decieving

You can always make a temp skid plate to get you by, and test it out.

Looking good, don't forget sleep is over rated. Hope you fine some time to get this moving a bit faster since tech of the week is about fire wall grommets.

The pic doesn't do it justice.

It hangs down about 2-3"... 1-2" of that will get shaved off.

Here is the brackets & the finished frame:
(I still have to clean up the brackets on the case).

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j95/mochamike/Scout/NP205/IMG_1164.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j95/mochamike/Scout/NP205/IMG_1166.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j95/mochamike/Scout/NP205/IMG_1165.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j95/mochamike/Scout/NP205/IMG_1167.jpg