Well, I finally got around to tearing down the bottom end. Before I removed the pistons/rods and crank, I plasti-gaged all the bearings. Mains are supposed to be 0.001 - 0.004 and here's what mine had[list=1]
0.006"
0.005"
0.005"
0.005"
0.006"
[/list=1]All of the rod bearings came in right around 0.0025" which is well within the 0.0011 - 0.0036 range. I didn't have the right instruments to measure the cam bearings but that's kind of moot anyway. The rear cam bearing is wasted.... it is worn badly and has a ridge worn on the bottom half that fits up into the oil groove in the rear cam bearing journal. The bearing lining material is also flaking off the bearing.

On 4 of the pistons, the rings were stuck in place by more of that black goo I found leaking into the cylinders from around the intake valves. On 3 of the pistons with stuck rings, the top two compression rings had the gaps lined up with each other instead of being staggered like they should have been.

In all eight of the cylinder bores, you can still see the cross-hatch pattern on the front and rear of the cylinder walls. On the remaining portions of the cylinder walls (the two "sides" that are 90* from the wrist pins) you cannot see the cross-hatch pattern anymore. I'll have to have the machine shop measure the bores to see whether I can get away with a hone job and re-ring or if I'm going to have to shell out the big bucks and have the thing punched. Now I have to get this thing down to the machine shop before I will know. More to come.....

I'd say that's typical great wear we've come to expect from IH engines.:D

Have you checked the taper of the cylinders?

My engine measured about like that with 190K on it. I ran a ridge reamer and glaze breaker through it, re-ringed it and went another 160 before I had it bored.

No, not yet. I don't have the proper instruments at my disposal to accurately measure the bores. Since the rear cam bearing is toast and they need replacing, a cam bearing installation tool is big $$$, and my machine shop will hot tank, install new freeze plugs and cam bearings for $70, guess which route I'm going to take.:D While the block is down there, I'll have them measure all the bores, check and polish the crank and tank & surface the exhaust and intake manifolds. I'll probably also have the rod bores checked as well. I had two rods (#2 and #7) where the bearing inserts looked like this:
http://www.mo-4xtoys.com/torc/P0001233.JPG
I put a post on the BB yesterday and got a couple of theories. Some think that is from pinging or hammering the bearing or possibly from an out of round rod bore or rod journal.

Looks like rod stretch. I ALWAYS have the rods resized as standard procedure.

I also have new cam bearings installed after I learned the hard (read expensive) way.:flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Looks a heckuva lot better than my rod bearing.

so, what would cause this? :D

http://www.m4x4a.org/ImageGallery/album51/DCP_0069.sized.jpg
http://www.m4x4a.org/ImageGallery/album51/DCP_0072.sized.jpg

Can you spot which one spun?

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/gallery/albums/album42/dcp_0018.sized.jpg

:D

Originally posted by tsm1mt
Looks a heckuva lot better than my rod bearing.

so, what would cause this? :D

http://www.m4x4a.org/ImageGallery/album51/DCP_0069.sized.jpg
http://www.m4x4a.org/ImageGallery/album51/DCP_0072.sized.jpg:D

That would be a prime example of the "Mandera factor" at work....:flipoff2:

Originally posted by TORC


That would be a prime example of the "Mandera factor" at work....:flipoff2:

Couldn't agree more!!!!




:flipoff2:

Fawkers!! :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

I changed the oil every 3rd time I drove it. Fresh 10w40 Castrol and good filter.

I changed the plugs almost as often - fresh Autolite 85s.

Now, granted, I haven't babied it for the maybe 1000 miles since it was built.. starting it up, slamming on the throttle, and holding it there for 30 minutes.. then shutting it off.. but....

Yeah, I did run it at 230 for 15 minutes before, too..

just think, those realy arent to bad.. think if it was a sbc that was treated the same way.. if you had .005 main clearance on one of those:nuke:

Well, I cleaned out ALL of the oil passages last night with bronze bore brushes and my gun cleaning kit. It took 4 different sizes of brushes but I brushed out all the passages with hot soapy water until the brush came out clean, then went back and brushed them all a second time, and finally soaked the brushes down in WD-40 and brushed them all again (to prevent surface rust). I'm taking the morning off tomorrow so I can load up the block, int & exh. manifolds, crank and rods/pistons and run them down to the machine shop. Only then will I find out how much money I'm going to have to part with.

Originally posted by TORC
Only then will I find out how much money I'm going to have to part with.

Machining, balancing and all new parts including cam and Silvolite (?) pistons set me back almost $2,300.:flipoff2:

Ain't cheap, however, I expect it to last another 300K.:D :D :D

Dropped off the block, crank, camshaft, intake, ex. manifolds and rods/pistons at the machine shop today. As I was unbolting the engine mount brackets from the block, I discovered this.
http://www.mo-4xtoys.com/torc/P0001237.JPG
It is the pad to which the bracket attaches with a 1/2-13 bolt on the passenger side of the block. Any suggestions on how to address this?

oops!
weld, machine/grind flat, drill retap?

Worst case, go to side motor mounts. :D

Otherwise, it's probably worth trying to weld it up.

At least the front bolts would be in good shape still, and the engine would rest down on the bracket.

For that matter, drill and tap the rest of the boss and put another hole in the bracket.

Stopped by the machine shop after work last night to find out the condition of parts I took in. All the pistons/wrist pins/rods checked out fine. Even #2 & #7 rod bores mentioned above checked out round, no rods were bent/cracked. The cylinder bores were all nice and round and NOT tapered. All it is going to need honing. I am also going to have the block decked to compensate for the thicker composite head gasket. And of course, new cam bearings and brass freeze plugs will be installed. The crank was in beautiful shape and will just get a light polishing. The only 'bad' news was that the camshaft is more or less a doorstop at this point.

Not too bad really. Looks like I'll be ordering a re-ring kit with all Standard bearings and cam kit. Now the decision I need to make is whether go back with a stock camshaft or something else. Let's hear some opinions. I will be using the stock exhaust manifolds, Q-jet (although eventually will be swapped out for EFI), will get rid of the "humps" in the exhaust ports on the heads, but that's about all. 90+% trail use. Trailered to the trails.

Boy are you gettin' by cheap!:flipoff2: New pistons and all new rocker arms were the two most expensive items on mine.

Gotta love them IHs. Last darn near forever.

Cam - I NEVER leave anything stock.:D :D
Isky and Schnieder both make a short duration, high lift cam. A wide Lobe Separation Angle will give ya more low end torgue, even with a little more duration than stock.

I went with a custom grind from Schniede (Lots of head porting/polishing).

If the block is still in the shop, may I suggest taking as much as needed off the block to get to @ 9.3:1? It will help get better flame travel in the cylinder - thus less pinging, cooler running, and more torque.

A compression increase is the cheapest and best way to get an increase in power.:eek:

Bearings seem to from pinging(predetenation) to me. Pretty hammered.


wp