Heading to pnp this morning to score the HB out of an astro van for $6.00. Its going in my 71 800B. looks like the battery will need to be relocated.

I have searched and read and searched and read but havent seen any pics that give me an idea where to relocate it to. I dont really want to remove the heater, but that looks like the best spot to put it. Im thinking about just moving it forward from its current location but not sure if there is room until I have the HB in my hands.

What did you who went HB do with your battery?

Flame On!!!!! :flipoff2:

I just moved it forward a bit.I also lowered the inner fender at the same time.You should have plenty of room. I can take some pics if you want but not until Sunday.

what mods are you having to make at the bracket/pedal ass.?

if you're getting it for $6, get two and I'll give you $65 shipped for it:D

IF you can find one from a p30 stepvan they fit without needing the 1" spacer the astro one does. at least at a scoutII. I'm assuming its the same spacing on the older scouts. They're $9 at the picnpull yards here.

IF you can find one from a p30 stepvan they fit without needing the 1" spacer the astro one does. at least at a scoutII. I'm assuming its the same spacing on the older scouts. They're $9 at the picnpull yards here.

I got mine out of a '90 astro van. I havent had time to measure yet to see what needs to be done. the wifes projects come first. :shaking:

if you're getting it for $6, get two and I'll give you $65 shipped for it:D

They are $6.00 all day here... saw 3 more today. I believe two of them are newer than 1990. the reservoirs were big and the assembly slanted down at an angle. I will go pull all of them if need be.

what mods are you having to make at the bracket/pedal ass.?

Not sure yet. will do some mock ups in the morning. thinking about removing the black bucket that the current M|S is mounted to and fabbing something that is the reverse of it. in other words will allow the booster to sit into the fire wall and allow me to use the push rod that came with the setup and move the master and booster back for more battery room.

I just moved it forward a bit.I also lowered the inner fender at the same time.You should have plenty of room. I can take some pics if you want but not until Sunday.


pics would be great.

This is my 80. I drilled new holes as the mounting pattern is different, and modified the pushrod. IIRC I cut 3/8-1/2" off. Factory battery location on the 80 is between the grill and radiator support right in font of the passenger tire.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/hydro3small.jpg

There is always the HOS master cylinder upgrade, but that is not an assisted cylinder.

This is my 80. I drilled new holes as the mounting pattern is different, and modified the pushrod. IIRC I cut 3/8-1/2" off. Factory battery location on the 80 is between the grill and radiator support right in font of the passenger tire.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/hydro3small.jpg

There is always the HOS master cylinder upgrade, but that is not an assisted cylinder.

I read HOS's write up and actually have done that (haven't drove it yet) but am going to be pulling a 2500 lb tent trailer or the boat at times and wanted the power assist.

The 800 battery is on the inner fender right in front of the master cylinder. I am contemplating modding the blue bucket in your pic. I could move it back a few inches that way.

As soon as I get done with this first cup of coffee, I will go out and start measuring and taking pictures.

So I did a small amount of mock up.... If I was to fab a new bracket to replace the bucket that would relocate the HB into the cab I would not need to relocate the battery. It looks like the push rod would be good if the HB was an inch or so into the cab.

Opinions anyone????

They are $6.00 all day here... saw 3 more today. I believe two of them are newer than 1990. the reservoirs were big and the assembly slanted down at an angle. I will go pull all of them if need be.

If you head back, my offer stands for $65 shipped for one. You can easily sell them for a good profit on ebay. I don't have any yards I can walk around and pull stuff close to me:( It's about time I got brakes on dad's diesel scout, manual brakes just aren't cutting it:rolleyes:

Here are the pics.Let me know if you need a different angle/shot and I can get more this afternoon.I need to clean it up,kind of hard to see everything clearly with all the dirt.
I used a scout II mc which I think is shorter.

rick, did you say you moved it forward? It looks quite short. what about a pushrod?

rick, did you say you moved it forward? It looks quite short. what about a pushrod?

I moved the battery forward.I did have to modify the push rod but dont remember how much.Sorry.Im not like some of these guys that document every nut and bolt and take really cool pics.Crap I cant even remember what I ate for breakfast,oh wait maybe I didnt.
I think it is quite a bit shorter with the Scout II mc.

So I did a small amount of mock up.... If I was to fab a new bracket to replace the bucket that would relocate the HB into the cab I would not need to relocate the battery. It looks like the push rod would be good if the HB was an inch or so into the cab.

Opinions anyone????

why not just recess the bracket like i did and not go into the cab.i know i gained about 2 inches or more by doin this.i was originally going to run a scout 2 booster and master and needed the room at the inner fender.going hydro now tho with the 42's,but extra room is extra room

why not just recess the bracket like i did and not go into the cab.i know i gained about 2 inches or more by doin this.i was originally going to run a scout 2 booster and master and needed the room at the inner fender.going hydro now tho with the 42's,but extra room is extra room


BINGO!!!!!! That is what I was thinking of.......... should have plenty of room.

You guys can't just make a new flat plate to cover that location? What's that bump used for originally? Seems it'd be easier than cutting and modding the stock cover.

71' 800: Any chance you went back to the yard and grabbed the hydroboost setups?

You guys can't just make a new flat plate to cover that location? What's that bump used for originally? Seems it'd be easier than cutting and modding the stock cover.

71' 800: Any chance you went back to the yard and grabbed the hydroboost setups?

firewall is angled,if you just plate it, the booster would stick up toward the hood.i cut mine and gained about two inches after seeing the inner fender of my buddy's truck beat to hell.that's using a scout 2 booster and master,might be a different game going with the hydro set up.i'm going to go hydro also,just haven't bought it yet.i've never even seen one in person so i don't really know size or lenght or much about them in general really.i just know/heard they are the way to go,and with 42's i think it is now a nessesary.

71' 800: Any chance you went back to the yard and grabbed the hydroboost setups?


Sorry, no. It was raining really hard. I have family coming this weekend for a week. I will try to get away but it might not happen for another week. There were 3 more, hopefully they arent gone by then.

The flat plate thing might work as 2 of them I saw did slant down at an angle.

Sounds like you have it figured out. I was running dual batteries in mine and was able to fit one of them in front of the heater. Or you can just cut everything out and mount the heater in the glovebox and then would you have plenty of room in there.:D

Sounds like you have it figured out. I was running dual batteries in mine and was able to fit one of them in front of the heater. Or you can just cut everything out and mount the heater in the glovebox and then would you have plenty of room in there.:D

Is that the factory heater?

Which one? The one on the fender,Yes. The one in the glove box, No.

If you grab an Astro HB and get the master cylinder with it.... while you're at the JY, pry the stupid fuckin' puny-ass midget reservoir off of the master cylinder and throw it away. Then, walk over to an S-10 or 15/Blazer mini-truck and get pull the reservoir off of it and slap it on the MC you're keeping. If you want maximum capacity (and have the room for it) go over to a fullsize truck that uses the aluminum MC w/ plastic reservoir and grab the reservoir off it to use.

Sorry, no. It was raining really hard. I have family coming this weekend for a week. I will try to get away but it might not happen for another week. There were 3 more, hopefully they arent gone by then.

The flat plate thing might work as 2 of them I saw did slant down at an angle.

no problem, I'm not really in a rush, it'd just be a good deal for both of us ;)

Didn't know the firewall on 800's was angled like that, good to know for the future. Mech, thanks for the info.

Here's a few picks of from a thread on Just IH:

It's a '64 S80 with the 152 4-banger.

Thougt i would post up some pics of my hydroboost so if anyone was think about it they could get some ideas. First off i got the hydroboost unit off a chevy astro van. Used the stock mounting bracket off the astro van and cut it down so i could weld on to the back of the scout mounting bracket. The master cylinder is off a 78 Mercury Grand Marquis with hyrdoboost. The holes are in the same spot as a stock scout master cylinder. To make it bolt up to the hydroboost just needed a longer rod and drill out the holes on the cylinder. The pick and pull i got the hydroboost from doesn't charge u extra if you cut the lines and leave the fitings in the unit:thumbsup: . Then I took the fitings to a Hydraulic shop and had them make up some new lines. I'm in the process of move my return lines had to move for the air compressor and now just waiting for my cooler.

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Well the in-laws are gone now, time to get back to work ( if that is possible with the wife wanting her shit done). I did sneak away one evening and pull the bucket off of the firewall to start the mods.
I am doing the same as Chris Fresh sort of....... it looks like the master cylinder will take up about 2 inches of the battery area. I can live with that.

looks like good progress:cool2:

Please keep me in mind next time you run to the yard. :D The more I drive the scout, the more it needs hydroboost

looks like good progress:cool2:

Please keep me in mind next time you run to the yard. :D The more I drive the scout, the more it needs hydroboost

Looks like rain today. supposed to be thunder storms. I think after this cup of coffee, I will grab the rain gear and tool bag and head for PNP....

I will PM you as soon as I have your Hydro Unit :D

Looks like rain today. supposed to be thunder storms. I think after this cup of coffee, I will grab the rain gear and tool bag and head for PNP....

I will PM you as soon as I have your Hydro Unit :D

forking awesome. you rock:bounce2:

forking awesome. you rock:bounce2:


Friggin PNP is closed today:mad3:

So I came home and worked on my brakes. got the bucket modded and see that I still need to rework the wheel well.

that's weird, guess cause it was fathers day? Anyway, thanks for trying. Just let me know if/when you are able to get one, and you'll have paypal for it the same day.

The bracket looks good, almost like it came from the factory that way. Nice work:smokin:

Well haven't really done anything with the scout lately. Between working, family and everything else, Ive been to busy. Hafta work this weekend, next weekend is a wedding...... Damn!!!! thats a lot of weekends without metal dust and sunburned arms.......





ALL I WANT IS TO BUILD!!!!!!!!!!!!:flipoff2:

Well haven't really done anything with the scout lately. Between working, family and everything else, Ive been to busy. Hafta work this weekend, next weekend is a wedding...... Damn!!!! thats a lot of weekends without metal dust and sunburned arms.......





ALL I WANT IS TO BUILD!!!!!!!!!!!!:flipoff2:

Looking good. I think I could go without a nose full of grinding dust this weekend.:laughing:
Vancobrakes has the hoses and the fittings for a reasonable price too.
I found him to be very easy to work with.

Looking good.
Vancobrakes has the hoses and the fittings for a reasonable price too.
I found him to be very easy to work with.

Thanks :D I will have to give them a call.

Well I didn't get much done this weekend. I did get the unit mounted and started bleeding out the air...... I just cant seem to get it all out, the pedal feels like a wet sponge. Ive pushed a half gallon of fluid through it so far so I'm sure the air is in the master still. Im going to loosen the mount and tilt it up at the front and see if that helps get them little bubble bastards out.......

On the upside, I wont have to relocate the battery:D

Man, nice clearance:smokin: Looks damn good in there.

HB......never dealt with it before. What is the upside compared to a regular booster? Is it just the compact size? I have a few PnP's near me and brakes is the only thing I haven't really thought about for my rig. Is there a thread about it........I'll go check the faq's again.
EDIT: found it under "axle improvements"

HB......never dealt with it before. What is the upside compared to a regular booster? Is it just the compact size? I have a few PnP's near me and brakes is the only thing I haven't really thought about for my rig. Is there a thread about it........I'll go check the faq's again.
EDIT: found it under "axle improvements"

Ive read that they work better than vacume but don't really know. If you add the Subaru electric hydro pump, you could have power brakes when the engine is not running.:grinpimp:
Man, nice clearance:smokin: Looks damn good in there.

I am happy with the results, now if I could get ALL the air out of the system, it might be sweet. Still need to set up the hydro lines.
Have a wedding to go to this weekend so of course no time for PnP. I was lucky to get out there today. Gave up on bleeding the brakes and re-adjusted my rear pinion angle to get rid of the vibration I had. Now its time for BBQ steaks and Jack............:flipoff2:

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Did you move the mounting location for the push rod? Im wondering if my spongy pedal is because I need to lower the hole in my pedal.

Nice looking mount sure better than a flat plate.

Well I have completed the setup..... sort of.....

Went to PNP for parts. no more HB's to be had as of now I did however find a trans cooler off of a exploder for the steering for $6.

Pics to come.... I got it all mounted up and plumbed it using power steering hoses for the Astro van (new) haven't taken the time to install the cooler yet. I cut the ends off of the astro hoses and used my scout hose ends, flared the tubing and tightened them up....... no leaks but damn the brakes work really good!!!!! they are kinda soft like a fat girls booberz but work really good.
I need to figure out why the pedal is so soft. I can push it to the floor, but when moving, only a few inches are needed to stop fast.
I used the 78 Mercury marquis disc/drum master because I had it and it is new, so Im not sure if that is the problem or not. it might be that the pedal is way longer in the scout than the astro van pedal. Im running d60 front calipers and 14 bolt rear small drums.
Now I just need to register it after 6 years of sitting so I can start working the bugs out.

Well been busy working and all, plus we moved....... Did a little cruising at the ORV park a few times to see what happens. Found out that the military tires suck ass for traction and the hydro brakes work really friggin good when you stab the pedal.
I still have not figured out why the pedal is super soft, like soft enough that you can easily push it to the floor. just don't do it when you are moving or you will check your seat belt. :eek:

Any one else have or had the soft pedal and want to give up some info?

I have the exact same setup on my Scout 2. I used a pnp hyroboost, MC, and proportioning valve off a 90' Astro van. It has worked awesome since the day I put it on but I also noticed a lower, softer pedal than the previous vacuum power brakes. I even bled the system w/2 people like 10 times to make sure! As you may have also noticed it doesn't take much pedal travel or force to activate the brakes now, and if you do slam on them (the pedal doesn't quite go to the floor but feels like it almost does) the truck stops on a dime and will slam your forehead into the cage (thank god for padding!).

So it must be normal for this setup to have a lower, softer pedal because I also do and they work perfect!

I converted a 70 1110 IH pickup to 4wheel discs and HB. Junkyard HB, all new hydro lines and all new brake lines. Including steel braided flex lines. Rock hard pedal. I put a speedway proportioning valve on the rear line and then dialed it WAY down cuz they would lock up at the mere thought of touching the brake pedal.

I had to modify (cut shorter, sleve, weld)the pushrod a little but it used the same hole in the factory IH brake pedal.

How did you bleed your system?

How did you bleed your system?

Bench bled the master 3 times, gravity for 4 days ( 1 day per corner ) then I pumped fluid through everything at least 5 times then I used my mighty vac and pulled fluid through them. I ran 1 gallon of fluid through the system and still have mush pedal.

I am not positive that the rear drums are adjusted as well as can be, the damn holes in the drums are friggin small and a bitch to adjust through.......

I have the exact same setup on my Scout 2. I used a pnp hyroboost, MC, and proportioning valve off a 90' Astro van. !

I still have the stock drum/drum proportioning valve in my setup. I am thinking about installing the astrovan p/valve to see if it helps with the issue. As it is set up now, it only takes an inch and a half of pedal movement to lock up the brakes but while sitting still you can easily push the pedal to the floor.

has anyone had problems with barbed fittings leaking after time with the conversion?

has anyone had problems with barbed fittings leaking after time with the conversion?

Do you mean flared fittings???? If so, I have not had any problems with leaks after I finally got them tight enough to NOT leak. I tried to double flare my lines with no success so I single flared them. I did have one fitting that was boogered up and the wrench rounded it out. I used vice grips and got it tight. Other than that.... No leaky any more.

Edit: My pedal is still a mushy mess. but man is it fun to let someone else drive it and see the reaction when they hit the brakes. It has NO feel to it unless you are talking about the pain in your neck from whiplash.......

has anyone had problems with barbed fittings leaking after time with the conversion?

I used those cut to fit hose and screw in fittings, never even a weep.
But have an issue with pushing the fluid out the MC lid:shaking:

the low side is just barbed with a hose clamp.

http://www.pscmotorsports.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/h/k/hk2089.jpg

What would cause the fluid to come out of the lid? Brainfart..... barbed fitting is on the return line?

I asked around, and was told to get a seal from the dealer. remain MC
Maybe one day I get there

Do you mean flared fittings???? If so, I have not had any problems with leaks after I finally got them tight enough to NOT leak. I tried to double flare my lines with no success so I single flared them. I did have one fitting that was boogered up and the wrench rounded it out. I used vice grips and got it tight. Other than that.... No leaky any more.

Edit: My pedal is still a mushy mess. but man is it fun to let someone else drive it and see the reaction when they hit the brakes. It has NO feel to it unless you are talking about the pain in your neck from whiplash.......

with barbed tee's. it seems to be very popular cutting in tee's in the pump lines. i really dont like that idea. a budy of mine has problems with leaking and sucking air on his 67 camaro but from my searching it seems to work well on here.

I used those cut to fit hose and screw in fittings, never even a weep.
But have an issue with pushing the fluid out the MC lid:shaking:

the low side is just barbed with a hose clamp.

http://www.pscmotorsports.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/h/k/hk2089.jpg

this is what im looking for. is this a kit or peice by peice? and where did you get your parts from? i have a hydralic hose shop in town but the prices for anything are through the roof. got a hb from an astro van from pick and pull monday for 10 bucks. just trying to get all my ducks in a row.

couple places to get that hose and fittings. The pic is from PSCmotorsports, so they sell it.

FYI: Never, no not ever use a tee in a hydro circuit. It will create heat and restricted flow. Even on the return, just add a second port to the reservoir.

couple places to get that hose and fittings. The pic is from PSCmotorsports, so they sell it.

FYI: Never, no not ever use a tee in a hydro circuit. It will create heat and restricted flow. Even on the return, just add a second port to the reservoir.

thanks. it seemed to me like it would create problems. im going to be running a steering ram as well so i want to keep the heat as low as possible. im build my own reservoir out of 16g stainless. suggestions on location of pick up and return lines besides the obvious? suggestions on a pump? im trying to keep budget in mind and not buy a high po from psc or agr. ive heard chevy pumps flow well.

with barbed tee's. it seems to be very popular cutting in tee's in the pump lines. i really dont like that idea. a budy of mine has problems with leaking and sucking air on his 67 camaro but from my searching it seems to work well on here.
I have a barbed T in my return line. I have often wondered if it is the cause of my steering suddenly not having power.

I have a barbed T in my return line. I have often wondered if it is the cause of my steering suddenly not having power.

I have a T as well.How often does it do this?

I have a T as well.How often does it do this?
Damn near all the time. I installed a new pump and it was better, but now it is terrible again. I do have a cooler on it. I am going to install a hydro assist setup this winter/next summer. Maybe that will help along with adding a second return to the pump.

you might want to think about adding a larger reservoir

I have a barbed T in my return line. I have often wondered if it is the cause of my steering suddenly not having power.

Has your hydroboost been hi-flowed?

you might want to think about adding a larger reservoir

Has your hydroboost been hi-flowed?

Not hi-flowed. I am pulling the engine out in a day or so. I will be adding more to the system ( hose and larger cooler ) when I install the chevy stuff. The pump will be the stock/modded pump on the engine I have (1998 chevy). I did relocate ( drill, taper ) the drag link on the steering arm to the proper location. It helped quite a bit. I have an extra Hydro-boost unit here so I am going to pull it apart and see what I can do to help things out.:D

Not hi-flowed. I am pulling the engine out in a day or so. I will be adding more to the system ( hose and larger cooler ) when I install the chevy stuff. The pump will be the stock/modded pump on the engine I have (1998 chevy). I did relocate ( drill, taper ) the drag link on the steering arm to the proper location. It helped quite a bit. I have an extra Hydro-boost unit here so I am going to pull it apart and see what I can do to help things out.:D

You should just send it to VancoPBS and have it high-flowed.

Something tells me I should have it hi-flowed............... :flipoff2:





Maybe I will send the extra one out and play with the one that is in the scout now since it appears to be leaking in a few places.