Get your mind out of the gutter.

So, the rear 10 spline has to go. It's been a long, fun ride, but I can't see myself changing another diff this winter, or buying some halfshafts.

I have a few ideas, wondering if I could get some opinions.

What I want to do is get a 1 ton yank rear end with 3.54 gears, and narrow the pass (right for you 'nglishmen) side to maintain the same track. Even if I only get a few inches of offset, it'll be better than nothing, and this is a 109 so I have a lot of rear driveshaft.

My current choices are following:

14 bolt Chev. King of ring and and pinion strength, 1.5" shafts. Super heavy and the housing is gigantic. Like a 3rd wheel off-road.

Dana HD60. Strong enough; 1.5" shafts. Not as cheap or available as the 14 bolt. Better ground clearance. Lighter, I believe.

Salisbury. Ready made bolt pattern, brakes and ratio. Not as heavy duty, and all the brackets are wrong anyways for my suspension. Expensive. Hard to get. Expensive.

The mods to get me there (with yank parts) are listed here:

The wheel hubs are the tricky part.

1 - I could try and find bearings with the ID of the full floater stub axle off the yank diff, and an OD to fit the ABS rangie wheel hubs. This might be possible. I'd have to make some spacers (distance pieces) that are longer to account for the thinner wheel hub, and the drive flanges on the axles (8 bolt, integral to axle) would be wrong. I would have to build drive flange adapters or get custom shafts.

2 - Use the yank 8 bolt hubs, build an adapter to get the right bolt pattern, also possibly, an adapter that would allow the stock rotor to be retained. I'd rather stay away from the drums as they are extremely heavy. Does anyone know if the wheel hubs on an american axle are cast iron or cast steel? If they were cast steel I could just weld to them.

3 - Build a pair of custom wheel hubs. Billet steel. Inside is made like the original axle's hub, with rover wheel pattern and rotor mounting pattern.

Narrowing one axle would be pretty easy. Moser could do it.

Brakes would be a problem (as mentioned above). I'd like to use the stock rangie bits, but I don't know if they would fit. Caliper mounts are easy.

Driveshaft would be a matter of getting an adapter U joint, from 1310/1350 down to rover. This should be available from spicer, right?

Give me your opinions, folks. Machining is cheap. Parts are expensive. That's why I'd rather reuse than buy new. I'm tempted to go for the 14 bolt as it's never been done and they are cheap. A 3.54 14 bolt out of a 1 ton van can be had for about 250$.

thanks

J-L

Damn it.

Can't get a 14 bolt with a 3.54.

Guess it'll be a Dana 60 then...

J-L

what you want is a 60-2 rear end out of a Jeep J truck, it will be a semifloating 60 with 1.5" 35 spline shafts and an offset to the correct side already. the track width on it is about 64" or 65", your current coiler axles are 62" so you would probably get the perfect offset by cutting it down t6 62".

with a SF rear end it is super easy to change to 5x6.5, ask Old Scout he is doing one for the rear of his disco. the 8 lug pattern is already 8x6.5, so you just have to maintain one hole and fill the rest with weld, then drill 4 new holes on the 6.5" circle.

That is a lot of work.

Get a fj60 or fj80. As strong. Bolt in for the 80, slight mod for the 60, and cheaper easier to get wheels.

Why create all that work?
j

because he will blow up a FJ80 diff :D

ford 300ci inline six makes big torque, and when multiplied through a granny tranny and on a heavy ass vehicle... well, :eek:

Flipped Eaton is the way to go IMHO

Cheap and easy, too bad I sold mine when I got my portals.

Ron

Thanks for the ideas guys,

Toy parts I will break. Sorry redrangie, it's that simple. I am looking for something unbreakable, and it HAS to use Land-Rover wheels. It has to be available with a 3.54 gear. The front 10 spline stays until I build a 101 FC front axle. GVW will be about 6500 lbs when I'm done with this truck.

9V, it has to be full floating as well. None of this semi floating stuff ;-)

Seriously, I'd rather have the load carrying ability that a full floater gives. That, and when i break those 1.5" shafts, I want to be able to change them with minimal cussing.

EvilFJ, I am totally unfamiliar with an eaton rear end. This is found on old chevys, right? What's the advantage to this rear end over others? Very strong? Available in 3.54? I can't find any info on that rear end. I know Timm has one in the back of his 109, but other than that, big question mark.

Care to spill the beans???

J-L

why hung up on FF? i doubt you will ever break a 1.5"er, honestly. look at the weights that those J trucks carried around and never broke, my boss has one that was a tow truck for 25 years and now has been relegated to plow truck duty for the past 5, no issues whatsoever.

9V,

I thought it over a bit...

I wasn't aware that the RR's axle width was 62". That means a 65" wide Dodge rear end wouldn't allow me to move the "pig" over more than 3". That would suck. I'd really want to have it at least close to the stock offset. I don' t particularly want to run massive wheel spacers. Although, I could easily run 1" spacers, narrow one side, and end up with a 5" offset in the right direction. Or, screw the width, have the rear axle 2" narrower than the front. Very effective in snow.

Your Yeep setup sounds like the only way to go. You meant a 1960-1962 J? - J20, J30, does it make a difference? They are all 35 spline?

The other thing I could do is get a standard D60 housing, make the long tube, shorten the short tube, make the spindles, etc, and get moser to build me a long full floater axle and respline the shorter one.

The Jeep axle is probably best.

But, the eaton looks cool ;-)

J-L

Originally posted by 9V
why hung up on FF? i doubt you will ever break a 1.5"er, honestly. look at the weights that those J trucks carried around and never broke, my boss has one that was a tow truck for 25 years and now has been relegated to plow truck duty for the past 5, no issues whatsoever.

Can I have the rear end????

;)

Hung up on FF?

Well, I like being able to pull the shafts without having to screw with the brakes. I can flat tow it easily if I blow up a diff. I can drive it in front wheel drive if the rear diff cooks. If I blow a driveshaft and it takes the rear yoke with it (BTDT) I can pull the shafts and limp home. Besides, I HATE c clips.

I'm totally anal about this sort of stuff. Reliability isn't the main concern, it's repairability. SOMETHING will always break and leave you on the side of the road/trail. Fixing it is the challenge. If you spend time making sure that everything is easily repaired, you are laughing.

J-L

60-2s dont have C clips AFAIK. if you are going to be building a 101 front axle why not do 101s front and rear? that will take the beating and the big 6 lug pattern will look cool as hell.

You can find 4.10 (or was it 4.11?)

They also come in 63in width.

Ron

Originally posted by 9V
60-2s dont have C clips AFAIK. if you are going to be building a 101 front axle why not do 101s front and rear? that will take the beating and the big 6 lug pattern will look cool as hell.

Yeah, and I have 5 MOG wheels to use as well. 20" ;-)

I can't afford to import a pair of axles. I've looked into buying them on these shores, and they are way too expensive. The 101 FC axles are great, but I'd have to regear them, and the brakes aren't too hot. The Vampire I drove in NS was slow to stop, and about 500 lbs lighter than Valdez !

Besides, I'd do volvos before a pair of 101FC's...

I'm looking at a bulletproof rear that will last forever, and for the front I'll probably just import the parts I need (swivels, etc) from a 101 and build the center out of the D60 high pinion living under a friend's plow truck.

EvifFJ, I searched the eaton on this site, found a ton of info. I get what you mean by flipping the pig to get the offset. I also see that eaton is ENV. Do you know what ratio was used in the 1 ton rovers?

Anyways, the Eaton sounds like it would be really strong. Are they full floaters or semi floating? I guess that they are the same 8X6.5".

The ratios seem to be really low, but a 4:10 would mean I could use a Toyota front carrier, or, like I said before, a D60 with 101FC parts.

That eaton sounds cool. 1.55" shafts!

J-L

The ENV/Eaton Timm is running was origionaly a LR unit and already has the 5 on 6.5 pattern. Check with Great Basin Rovers, they should be able to get you either a Sals or an ENV if you cant find one yourself.

-Jeff

As far as flipping.

Remove inspection plate and 3rd member, rotate axle 180 degrees, putting 3rd member where inspection plate was and inspection plate where 3rd member was.

Ta da! Offset rear.

ENVs had 4.7 ratios, 4.11 or 4.10 was a common Eaton rear ratio. Eaton rear, 60 or 8 lug 44 front would be the ticket. common 8 lug pattern easy to find parts etc.

Eaton ring gear is HUGE think of it as sort of a Ford 9in style but 12in ring gear :)

Ron