I have a CJ7 half done, and wanna complete this by the time I am going to Moab on the 28th of this month. It sits on a hi pinion fullwidth D44 in front on a full width kit from avalanche, and waggy springs in front, in the back a 14 bolt on 2.5 inch lift springs (spring over). I have two problems. The first is the steering will not work with the current hi steer setup I have. The pitman arm (with a stock CJ arm) overlaps the tie rod badly and will cause serious damage in the current setup. The avalanche kit moves the axle forward 1", the waggys move them about 2. I was thinking about getting some new steering arms to locate the tie rod behind the axle, but will I have issues with the hi pinion center??? (tie rod to diff clearance). Its been rotated, but not severley. I also need to locate at least an inch shorter pitman arm, and one that uses full size Jeep tie rod ends (3/4 ton type) or has enough material to tap it out for them. The secod issue is a gas tank to the big pig of a center section the 14 bolt has, they WILL connect (I am still not ready to cut the floor. Its an 85 with the bigger gas tank (23 gallon I think), can I just find the earlier smaller gas tank, or will it still be far enough forward to create clearance issues??? If I can get a fuel cell for under the jeep, anybody got some part numbers for a size that will work (aluminum preferably??) and that I wont run the 350 out of gas on just half the trail??? Any input appreciated!!!!

Gas tank: The 15 gallong tank on the CJ will probably still be in harms way. I just put waggy springs on the rear of mine (ford 9" rear) and had to move the tank. Its now up in the bed of the jeep.


See this thread (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=89443) for pix.

Yeah, I figured. I was trying to avoid gas tank issues by using stock length and and spring pin center type springs, and 2.5 inch lift versions closley matched the waggys when using both SOA. I just dont want to hack this jeep up yet (after some trail rash). That damn 14 bolt is just damn big, doesnt help that it is rotated to use a CV shaft behind a 350/700R4/NP208 combo!!!

Talked to Roggy Enterprises (where the hi steer arms came from), and he said to fab a pitman arm about 5" long vice the stock 6 1/2 to 6 3/4 inch version. I think this sounds like a reasonable place to start. He also reminded me that using the tie rod behind the axle will cause me to relocate the shock mounts and re-index the caliper brackets so proper clearance for the arms can be made in addition to pumpkin and oil pan clearance issues, so Im stayin away from that can o worms for now.

About the arms, get some that move the tierod behind hte axle or knuckles...

I have a trail quest 23 gal gastank and rised it about 1", enough to clear the 14 bolt with YJ leafs. Right now I have a rev cut D60 rear and its not an issue either.

I can get pictures of it if you want, PM me...

I've got a modded 15.5 gallon facotry tank and skid plate that has a 2" notch in it to clear the diff- I had it in my Jeep with the 60 moved back 2.5". If you want it PM me- I'll sell it cheap, I've since gone over the edge.

CJ drop pitman arms are shorter than stock arms so maybe one of those will work ... except you will also loose turning radius at the same time ... and that's usually bad.
I've a similar problem and am leaning towards fabing up a heavy duty steering gear box brace similar to Sam's Off-road's offering, but moving the gear box foreward an inch or two.

www.sams4x4store.com/specialty.htm

http://www.sams4x4store.com/images/Copy_of_SteeringBracket.jpg

I encountered this same problem on a CJ 7 using a MORE box mount and SRS setup. I cut the frame crossmember loose and moved it forward about an inch and a half. Really wasn't too difficult.

Yeah, It has to be exagerated from the steering box mount (I used an avalanche box mount made by MORE). I had to have a pitman arm fabbed, its like between 5 and 5 1/2 inches long, and it doesnt appear to interfere (we'll see when its TRULY all crossed up with the vehicle weight shifted). I wouldve moved the box mount forward, but all kinds of extra fabbing wouldve been necessary (I also used an avalanche full size axle kit that outboards the springs, I like the adjustability of the shackle mounts for shackle angles and spring lengths).

how is the drag link mounted? are there several holes in the passanger perch so you could switch the mounting of the tierod/dragling front to back. Or you could also run a chevy tierod end designed for a steering sabilizer and ream out the hole so you can mount the draglink to the back of the tierod.

I took out the floor on my cj, toss the seat and built a good sturdy air tight cage to hold the tank. Its not too bad, but I guess thats what you got to do when you want to run 100" wheel base in a cj. I moved the fill location to where my tail light used to be and moved my lights down, as high as I am anyway at least the schmoes behind can finally see me brake before they hit my axel/\.