this is the passenger side spring perch on a T-100. the crack is just below the weld where the perch is welded to the axle. we are going to drill it at both ends to stop it and then heliarc it after work today. does this sound like a good plan for this? any recommendations are appreciated.

another shot. yeah, the blocks are going as soon as AOR gets my alcan orbit eyes here.

last one

you can weld that with about anything. but the heliarc will be fine. just make sure you are getting enough penetration.

and flip those ubolts while you've got them off :D

- jack

Originally posted by morpheus
and flip those ubolts while you've got them off :D

- jack

yeah, i have those in the garage already for when i put the alcans on. i wish alcan moved a little faster with production.

Originally posted by gunracer1
you can weld that with about anything. but the heliarc will be fine. just make sure you are getting enough penetration.

how would you quantify enough penetration in terms of amps? i am worried that this axle tube is not too thick. i do not want to over-penetrate.

cool.

ya know, i've read of a few axle housing failures on the newer trucks. one of which tore the perch completely off the housing. :eek:

- jack

Originally posted by morpheus
cool.

ya know, i've read of a few axle housing failures on the newer trucks. one of which tore the perch completely off the housing. :eek:

- jack

I've seen that done to a D44 from a 74 cj ;)

Originally posted by morpheus
cool.

ya know, i've read of a few axle housing failures on the newer trucks. one of which tore the perch completely off the housing. :eek:

- jack

unfortunately, this seems to be a very common failure point for the T100 and some Tacomas. I have heard of the tacomas cracking around the circumference. i believe it happens in 4WL when you nail it. heaven forbid what'll happen after i drop some $$ with marlin.

just watch your puddle and make sure you are getting full penetration. you have a foot feed for that heliarc don't you? set it at 150 or so and tear it up.

Also to stop the crack from continueing you should drill a small hole at the very end of the crack and fill with weld.

I would gring out the crack alittle and clean it up good with brake cleaner or something. Then just run a good hot pass on it and it should be fine. You can also wash the old weld down into the crack. That is just dont ass to much wire and use the weld already on there to fill the crack. That way you know how much penetration you are getting. I know I didnt explain that very good but it is just my what I find easiest to do on stuff like that.

Todd

Originally posted by Lt1Cj7
Also to stop the crack from continueing you should drill a small hole at the very end of the crack and fill with weld.

umm, read my first post. :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Originally posted by mike


I've seen that done to a D44 from a 74 cj ;)

Same here, and MIG worked fine. ok.. so the perch hand't ripped off yet, but was withing 2" of axle tube left of doing that.

I have seen this many times, the best thing is to drain the oil and clean it, but the secret is to use the torch to burn the oil out of the crack,around 1000 degrees and weld immediately. steve differential eng. inc.

So did you get this taken care of alright? How did the drilling go? This is the same Josh from the other board BTW.

Is it just me or does it look like the axle tube is already starting to collapse just to the left of the perch in the first picture? It would seem that simply welding the crack back up would not help as tube strength has already been compromised. Doesn't somethng else need to be done as well?

it might just be the camera angle zukster but it sure does like the axle tube is starting to deform on the left side of the perch.

- jack

Originally posted by Zukster
Is it just me or does it look like the axle tube is already starting to collapse just to the left of the perch in the first picture? It would seem that simply welding the crack back up would not help as tube strength has already been compromised. Doesn't somethng else need to be done as well?

good eye, but what you are seeing is the built in gusseting on that axle. the axle necks down a little on both side just inboard of the perch.

Originally posted by gunracer1
just watch your puddle and make sure you are getting full penetration. you have a foot feed for that heliarc don't you? set it at 150 or so and tear it up.

we have the good shit at the plant. the feed control is in the handle. no hand/foot coordination for us. :D thanks.

Originally posted by Josh83
So did you get this taken care of alright? How did the drilling go? This is the same Josh from the other board BTW.

huge monsoon in houston postponed us to this afternoon.

Originally posted by steve gerstner
I have seen this many times, the best thing is to drain the oil and clean it, but the secret is to use the torch to burn the oil out of the crack,around 1000 degrees and weld immediately. steve differential eng. inc.

i have a small torch cigar lighter that will work perfect for this application. thanks.

damn, i feel like DRM making 20 posts in one thread. :rolleyes:

DONT stop and start on the corners, weld AROUND the corners, corners, sharp edges, undercut are all contributing factors in breakage (where there's a weld involved) :flipoff2:

I also think the tube is colapsing. That is what happens to zuk axle tubes when they get tired. The tube is probably twisted too. It will probably start eating wheel bearings on a regular basis due to bind (My zuk did).

Originally posted by Titanium
DONT stop and start on the corners, weld AROUND the corners, corners, sharp edges, undercut are all contributing factors in breakage (where there's a weld involved) :flipoff2:

we went around the corners and tied into the old welds on the sides. we did 3 passes with TIG.

Originally posted by Flipper
I also think the tube is colapsing. That is what happens to zuk axle tubes when they get tired. The tube is probably twisted too. It will probably start eating wheel bearings on a regular basis due to bind (My zuk did).

it is not collapsing. you'd need to see it in full to understand how that change in size is just the way they have this thing gussetted. go look at a T100 rear axle to see what i mean.

Originally posted by surlynkid


we went around the corners and tied into the old welds on the sides. we did 3 passes with TIG.

Fukn eh ! :flipoff2:

and here they are. welds courtesy of todd mackey - houston, tx. he did it as it sat with the right rear tire on and the spare in the way. all we did was pull the brake line back a little. it was tight, but he is fawking good. :D

i ran out of batteries to take them before i put it back together. damn camera gobbles up batteries. painted it when i got home. with 3 passes from the TIG, it ought to be stout as hell now.

thanks todd!! :D