Is the bolt pattern the same on most rover knuckles where the spindle bolts on? Anyone have a link, or some pics of the different ones out there?

I need a knuckle that the maxi-expensive portals would bolt to that would allow me to have a tie-rod/drag-link in the front of the axle. Maybe a knuckle off of a leaf-sprung rover?

Thanks....

This is almost like talking to yourself......replying to your own post first....

Anyways....looking at a rover D90 knuckle would it be possible to swap the knuckles side to side to allow the existing tie-rod mounting points to be in front of the axle? It doesn't look like they sit up very high, but maybe enough to make it work?

I wonder if it would be possible to make a bolt-on steering arm on the top of the knuckle that could be used in combination with the stock mount to make a adjustable mounting point for the tie-rod and drag link. Like what currie did for there F450 knuckles on TJs......or like this dynatrac pic....

http://www.rockcrawler.com/trailreports/SEMA2001/live/friday/DSCN1899.jpg

Or....I could try and bite off my own ear....

You could do the following...

http://riverport.org/JL/P0003625.JPG

custom steering arm for rover front axle.

I made it.

BTW, that is a coiler axle, with leaf springs. 1990 RR.

J-L

what if you just switched the side that the portals bolted to
wouldn't that put the tierod in the front?

just get a right hand drive knuckle for the same truck

Mmmm nice, got a website for the maxi drive stuff? Do they do the kit for series rigs?

Try John at Rover Tym. He has the Euro knuckles which will put all of your control links in front of the axle. He has done it on his Disco and it looks cool!

Paul

Can't wait to hear about some real-world testing on those maxi portals...Seems to me, by just looking at the pics, that there is/will be, a tremendous cantalever load on the swivel housing/axle conection. The stock housings are pretty darn thin after the flange (guess 3/16ths)...Put a good sized tire on the thing and there could be bending issues (dunno').

Shurrrrr look good though. :)

==D

thanks for all the help, there are a few good options....

correct me if I am wrong, but it looks like in the picture, that the portal assy. is cast along with the swivel housing. If so you cannot do anything bolt on. You will need to do some major fab work. The job handbuilt did, wont work for you either due to the way he bolted the steering horn on. I think you are pretty much screwed.

Actually, the Maxi portal assembly bolts on where the spindles bolt on. I would also be wary of the axle housing strength both front and rear. I would certainly love to have a set to test though. You all know how hard I am on my rigs and if it holds up to me, it should be a great product. :flipoff2:

-John

I'm surprised there isn't some more gusset action going on the bottom

Anybody got better pics, because that pic sure looks like the swivel housing and portal box are cast as one. Sure the pic could be deceiving, but I would have bet money on it. I wouldnt care for the portals, unless they are cast as one peice with the swivel. I would not be concerned with the swivel ball at all, it should hold up fine. Even Mog portals dont have gusseting. I would be more worried about the gears holding up.

Originally posted by Rover Addiction
Actually, the Maxi portal assembly bolts on where the spindles bolt on. I would also be wary of the axle housing strength both front and rear. I would certainly love to have a set to test though. You all know how hard I am on my rigs and if it holds up to me, it should be a great product. :flipoff2:

-John

I've seen pictures of the maxi portals before install and I know they're a separate unit that bolts on to the spindles. Basically, they use the stock CV as an input shaft to the gearbox and then bolt the spindle on at the output from the portal unit. I think in this case, they probably painted the portal gearbox black to match the swivel housing.

I'm most worried about the strength of the housing inboard of the flanges, specifically on the rear between the shock mounts and the flange and in front between the suspension arm mount and the inner flange from the swivel ball.

I would bet you could gusset the housings with a little effort and make them more than strong enough.

-John

yup, the portal box bolts on.....

I think with a little TIG action and some go fast gussets it would be more than strong enough. I have to play with it a little to see about what would have to come apart for changing axle internal components out.

I would also like to have the outer hub and rotor redrilled for a 8 on 6.5 pattern to use a standard backspacing hummer rim. That shouldn't be too hard. I just have to make sure it will clear the knuckle ball, and that the tire will not rub on the top of the knuckle.

I think the euro knuckle is the best bet

Where can I get more information on these axles conversions. I haven't found anything on them.
j

JUst some kwik thoughts...
Bolt on should be plenty strong, unless you are into jumping, and if you welded it how would you change the outer axel?

-Jeff

Originally posted by Mieser

I think the euro knuckle is the best bet

I'm planning on doing the euro knuckle swap as soon as mine gets here from the UK!

Should be pretty trick actually, and I didn't now John had done it! That's pretty cool.

http://pub28.ezboard.com/fsnakeracingforumboardfrm17.showMessage?topicID=15 .topic

I was quoted $10K Aus for a set. Makes mog or C303 axles look cheap.
cheers
Daryl