I just got my cruiser a month ago and I'm getting ready to swap the 6 out for a built 350 I have. Anything to look out for,secrets or tricks. Any comments are welcome.
Thanks

Hope you have a lot of money . It will nickle and dime you to death . New guages , custom exhaust , and yhe list will go on .

Keep the 6 if you can!

:flipoff2: To all ya 350 lovers :flipoff2:

Yeah the 6 isn't bad but that whole 407 ft/lbs. @2,000 and about 250 lbs. lighter is just difficult to pass up.

Go to IH8MUD.COM

There is information there that you need.

Welcome Newbie :flipoff2:

IMO, it's an easy swap, and despite the detractors, not as expensive as they like to believe. New custom exhaust, Y-pipe with a single muffler, will run ya $250. Find a good doner motor and it's not that costly. Install the motor-tranny-transfer in one large piece. Bolt/weld in your engine mounts and the rear crossmember mount. Hook up electrical, fuel, water, etc. Get driveshafts retubed as required. Drive.

I did a inline 6 to SBC swap on a Labor Day - pulled the inline 6 at about 11am, drove the truck with the SBC by 5pm. I already had the driveshafts made up from a different truck conversion plus a set of used pipes from that same previous conversion. Those are really the only two things that hold up the project, the rest is easy.

Make sure the engine is far enough foward from the firewall to get good air flow over the engine and help with cooling issues.

Originally posted by Mark '73 FJ40
Make sure the engine is far enough foward from the firewall to get good air flow over the engine and help with cooling issues.

I second this - very important + it will give you extra length on the rear driveshaft

I will echo the issues on cooling - beware of mounting the motor too far forward - it limits you options for cooling (ask me how I know!) When we did my son's V8 conversion a couple of years ago we followed the AA conversion booklet and their spacing/location recommendation, and it has worked just fine (with a Chevy style cross flow Griffen rad, shroud and big clutch fan). The PO of my rig put the motor way forward an I cant fit a clutch fan or much of a shroud and have overheating problems on the trail. I am going to put a big pusher fan in front of the rad to help that situation. I also have the Chevy style cross flow Griffen rad. HTH

Andy

Yeah I am running the HEI so I'll need to clear for that. Any suggestions on a place to get a Y-pipe kit? Also, I am having problems deciding on the radiator to use. I have heard that the stock cruiser one will work but I don't know. I have a new radiator out of one of my Chevelles and also a new four core out of my fullsize pickup as options but I want to make it as easy as possible. Any suggestions on good radiators, if the stocker will work, good/bad experiences with various radiators?

Mine stays at pretty decent temps and I'm running a stock 4 core unit with a shroud. The fan I'm running is a plastic unit made by Flex-A-Lite, works VERY good and only cost $20;)

Speaking from recent experience: Swapped out the 6 for a used 350TB and new trans (automatic), wire harness and a half million other parts. total bill: $7,800. Very well documented. The only new parts were trans, mounting kit, adapter for transfercase (orig), engine gaskets and a few other odds and ends. We (Georg) and I projected the cost to come in at $3800. There is some truth to nickel and dime costs.

My advice: Project your cost and nearly double it. Unless, you have a fab shop in your garage like some of these folks and a ton of extra parts.

BTW: The diff between the six and eight is huge! If you have the money and time I highly recommend the conversion.

I think I'm doing pretty good so far since I already have most of the parts from other projects. I think right now my two main costs will be the exhaust and drivelines. Luckily I do have access to a machine shop and can do all the fabing I will need. Anyone have thoughts on headers? I have a couple of sets of full lengths but I don't know if they will clear the front shaft. I've seen many with shorties that seem to work. Just one more expence if I need to buy them.

Thanks

One piece of advice...get everything from the donor vehicle...from the radiator to shroud to distributor and wiring harness...its usually easier to buy the whole car and do the parting yourself...that way you can minimize the related problems to splicing vehicles....

So what is the optimal distance between the HEI and the firewall?, I ask this cuz I have been fighting heat issues from day one:mad3: ! had to switch to a standard tranny to get it under control.(real long story!!!)

-Scott

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