: Diagnostic Software Toy Techs?


SpaceGhost
10-23-2002, 06:10 AM
I have a 2000 UZJ100 that has a problem I would like to fix myself and save some serious $$$. Here's what I know:

When it's real cold (so it hasn't done it since last winter) the Cruiser goes into limp mode and won't accelerate over about 10 mph. I was told by a master tech that they had found some kind of grease in the throttle body (or related fuel part) that thickened up and caused this problem. He thought he had seen a bulletin or memo on this (maybe Lexus) but could not locate it. There is no TSB, so I don't know what he was referring to.

Local dealer checked it out and estimated $500+ to repair this. It happened only 6 different times last winter, and we are certain it is relative to the temperature, so we passed on fixing it. They wouldn't tell me what part it was, they knew I would have bought it and replaced myself. Wife (her DD) is reminding me weekly that she wants it fixed!

Also does anyone know of pc software and interface cables that will let me grab the codes and maybe see whats going on? I have a scantool (software) for my laptop that lets me do this on my Powerstroke, so I assume something is avalable for the Cruiser too.

Maybe someone has access to the database of customer's vehicles and visits to the dealership? I know at Ford (my wife works at a dealer) that with a VIN she can review the dealership(s) history, maybe the diagnosis is posted in my VIN record and I could get started there.

Thanks,

Mr McGee
10-23-2002, 06:22 AM
so you're saying you want a code scanner...or you want to know whats broken? if it isnt throwing out a code then a scanner would do you no good. plus i have only seen chevy and ford scanners. i would just threaten to beat the shit out of the toy mehcanic till he tells you...or find a small shop to give you the problem. I dont know how diagnostic software would help tho...if it isnt throwing a code. :confused:

(sorry im not really much of a help! :D )

-Max

Eskimo
10-23-2002, 06:30 AM
Huh...interesting problem! If you go to the mom& pop auto parts stores, you can find 3M's throttle body cleaner, and go to town...that might help.

For the codes, that will only help you once it happens, as the stored codes have surely been erased by now.

You're in luck for scanners, as any import scanner will do the job... In fact, it's an OBD-II standard connector, (ISO-9001 I think). FORD, in their infinte fawking wisdom, uses a different communication protocol, which my scanner can't touch. But i can read a Chevy or Dodge!

HTH..

Just bring Kevin back into the dealership with you.. They might fix it for free.. :P

SpaceGhost
10-23-2002, 06:46 AM
Originally posted by Eskimo
Huh...interesting problem! If you go to the mom& pop auto parts stores, you can find 3M's throttle body cleaner, and go to town...that might help.

For the codes, that will only help you once it happens, as the stored codes have surely been erased by now.

You're in luck for scanners, as any import scanner will do the job... In fact, it's an OBD-II standard connector, (ISO-9001 I think). FORD, in their infinte fawking wisdom, uses a different communication protocol, which my scanner can't touch. But i can read a Chevy or Dodge!

HTH..

Just bring Kevin back into the dealership with you.. They might fix it for free.. :P

I haven't searched for the scanner software yet, started here cause all the knowledge is here! I don't want a hand held code scanner, but rather diagnostic software, like Alex Peppers scan tool which is awesome for the Ford Powerstroke. I do realize the code if not persistant will be erased by the ecm.

I did the throttle body cleaner thing last winter and no luck. Maybe if I take it apart, but I am hoping for a clue as to what I should take apart, and what I'm looking for. The info I got from the Master Tech, that I met on Lower 2 at Tellico, may not apply!

Cruiser Nerd
10-23-2002, 07:32 AM
I bought software and interface from Harrison to troubleshoot O2 problems with my 80 (OBDII). It did what I wanted, which was to be able to look at a plot of the real time O2 sensor outputs. Also could look at the other sensors real time.

http://www.ghg.net/dharrison/obdscan.html

Also see if any of these TSB's ring a bell:

http://www.alldata.com/TSB/60/006017AD.html

Thanks for the heads up, heading into our first winter with our '00.

Pin Head
10-23-2002, 08:31 AM
I got the Harrison reader for my lap top too. It has easily paid for itself in the two years I have owned it. It is easy to use and it scares the shiite out of sellers when you pull that thing out and hook it up to the car they are selling.

It still ticks me off that you can't just set a jumper and pick off the DTC codes like on the earlier diagnostic units. Still though, OBD-II does allow you to monitor more than just the DTC code, which can be useful.

SpaceGhost
10-23-2002, 08:52 AM
Thanks guys, I just scanned their web site, looks like just what I need.

Cruiser Nerd
10-23-2002, 09:50 AM
Your post reminded to snag the latest upgrade. I just looked and I think I'm buggered for the new features as i have an early interface.:(

Ballard
10-23-2002, 12:19 PM
There was just a post to the 80s list today about a TPS that did a very similar thing on a 100 series. If the Throttle Position Sensor stays within it's limits but does not read throttle opening, it will do what you describe without setting a hard code light. If an OBDII vehicle truely goes into limp in mode it will set a hard light that will stay on until reset. You should be able to test the TPS with an ohm meter or with any OBDII scan tool that reads data and is not just a code reader.

Eskimo
10-23-2002, 07:32 PM
Oh Mike, forgot to mention... Toyota TPS's are big time POS's.. It's a known problem with them, Mine recently went south on my D/D Tacoma... Many folks I know are on their 3rd one...

Hard to pick up the one dead spot with a ohm meter.. But it drives fine except for that one spot just off idle.

KMAN
10-24-2002, 04:58 AM
Damn Mike, that not supposed to happen to a Toyota......

Cruiser Ken
10-24-2002, 07:40 AM
You said it's a 2000, isn't it covered under warranty?

SpaceGhost
10-24-2002, 10:59 AM
Not warranty, passed the mileage sometime ago. I do need to look in to that though, unfortunatley it didn't happen till last Jan/Feb the first time, and we had a bunch on it then.

I was hoping a master tech may have had this problem and could narrow it down for me. Thats who got me on the right track, the guy I met at Tellico. Unfortunately he can't remember all the details. If the dealership would just tell me what part they planned to replace, hahahahaha, I would go straight their parts counter and order it up with my discounts and be done with it.

Thanks all, I ordered the software and cable so I'll be able to dig deeper.

Pin Head
10-24-2002, 11:34 AM
Originally posted by SpaceGhost
If the dealership would just tell me what part they planned to replace, hahahahaha, I would go straight their parts counter and order it up with my discounts and be done with it.



Mike,
The way it works at dealers is they plan to replace everything they can even think of and they will charge you for it whether they replace it or not.

My wifes Ford EFI V6 had a DTC problem while under warranty and the dealer claimed it needed $900 worth of non-warranty and they wouldn't tell me what the code was. I said "thanks, but no thanks" and got the Harrison OBDII monitor which pointed me straight to a $90 vacuum actuator as the cuplrit (which was under waranty). I also helped me shave $1000 off the price of her new Infiniti to replace the Ford as the Infiniti had a bad O2 sensor.

You might ask a guy on the Toyota Truck board (Jim Brink?) who I think is a Toyota master mechanic.

SpaceGhost
10-24-2002, 01:26 PM
Originally posted by Pin Head

You might ask a guy on the Toyota Truck board (Jim Brink?) who I think is a Toyota master mechanic.

I posted this over there also. I guess I'm hoping my experience ends up similar to yours. Thanks Charlie.

Pin Head
10-24-2002, 02:08 PM
Mike,
Jim spends more time on the 4x4wire forum, so you might try giving him a shout over there:
http://www.4x4wire.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?category=2

There are two guys in my club that are Lexus master mechanics, so if you don't get any joy on your UZJ100 from Jim, let me know and I may be able to put you in touch with them even though they are not on the web.

td
10-24-2002, 02:37 PM
This problem happened once to me on my '98 UZJ100 couple weeks ago, there are some discussions on the 80scool list, here is a snip of the lastest post:

=========

Subject: Re: FYI - '99 LC Problem

Christo,

I was in the same situation and it is a big time safety issue.
Thank you for talking the lead on this. One other person on the
board had the same problem in a '98 LC with like 30k miles.

I would like for Toyota to do a recall.

Andrew
--- In 80scool@y..., "Christo Slee" <list@s...> wrote:
> > I would like to inform you guys about a problem I had with my '99

> > LC. Symptoms - Come to a stop, vehicle idles but the accelerator
> > pedal does not function, check engine light comes on. This
happened
> > to me 3 times and then I took it to the dealership. It was
hooked up
> > to obd2 and the problem was found - defective throttle position
> > sensor. Replaced for $261 including labor. This would be even
worse
> > if it happened offroad in a remote place.
> >
> > Just an FYI if this every happens to anyone else.
>
> Same thing twice now. I have ordered the part, but I am also
working to
> get Toyota involved. I am not one to always blame the manufacturer,
but
> this is a safety issue. On both occasions, it was when I was at

> standstill at an intersection, and pulled out to join or cross
traffic.
> Both cases the truck moved slowly (which I assume is failsafe mode)
but
> not what you expect.
>
> Code is 1121, and I am working with our dealer to see what Toyota is
> going to do about this. In both cases, I was nearly involved in an
> accident due to this. Nothing worse than putting your foot down and
the
> truck does not move.
>
> Christo Slee

SpaceGhost
10-24-2002, 09:07 PM
Thanks for that snipit. That describes the symptom although several other indicator lights fired up. Hopefully the code is still in storage so I can verify. Ours only did a half dozen time, usually early in the morning within 3 miles of leaving home, and each time it was bitter cold. After everything was warmed up all was good. That part is where the grease contamination thing came from, a fluke in assembly that apparently was rare.

How many UZJ's are on the 80's list? I subbed for a while, and I think there were 2 and me that had the newer rigs at that time. Might have to get back in there.

Cruiser Ken
10-24-2002, 10:19 PM
I read the 80s list as a message board, don't need the emails cluttering up my inbox. That way you always have access to read current stuff and do archive searches.

sleeoffroad
10-27-2002, 11:12 AM
Spaceghost,

I know of quite a few people that this has happened to. I am not sure if mine was temprature related. However both were early in the morning, so it could have been.

I get the code 1121, which is accelerator position sensor malfucntion, not to be confussed on throttle position sensor. Not the same thing. The throttle position sensor is about $70 but the accelarator position sensor is about $250. I have a line on a cheap complete throttle body, so I might replace the whole thing.

I have also reported it to Toyota, and urge you to do the same once you have found the code. Maybe we can get them to look into it.

Both cases that happened to me I was nearly involved in a wreck, since it failed when going into an intersection.

Let me know when you get the reader and what code you got.

SpaceGhost
10-27-2002, 02:44 PM
Thanks Christo,
My wife mentioned the accelerator positon sensor, her terminology was different, but that was after she came home from the dealership. Did you replace your's? Or is it intermittant and on hold?

I'll post up when I get the code off the thing.

sleeoffroad
10-27-2002, 03:03 PM
I have not replaced it yet. As I mentioned, I might have a line on a complete new throttle body with all new parts, so I might just replace the whole thing.

I am getting it at a bargain price, so it will be worth my while to have both the TPS and APS replaced.