I jus set up my hi-crossover setup using Parts Mike arm, and 75 travelall knuckles. being a dumb ass, i assumed i could use the stock tierod from the scout. wrong. the fawker is too long, adjusted as short as it gets, i am still towed out 2.25" or so. I am looking for a cheap TEMPORARY solution, till i can get some tube to make one. i have 2 options that i see

1)Cut it in the middle, shorten it 3", sleeve it weld the fawker up for now. :eek:

2)cut the ends down 1.25" each, and thread the TRE's further in (if the treads even go deeper) if the treads don't, then shorten the threaded part of the TRE's This should be plenty strong, as even though the threaded in portion of the TRE is horter, it is fully screwed in, and thus as strong as it would be adjusted further out. :rolleyes:

NOTE: this is NOT for street use, jus trail, and TEMPORARY at that.

why cut both ends????? just cut off the 2.5" and re tap one end! A tap is like $8-10.00, I'm sure you have a hacksaw right?

A piece of DOM tube is 15.00!

just make sure to cut off the side that is right hand thread.. left hand taps are less common and more$$$

Originally posted by T1H5_TA3
just make sure to cut off the side that is right hand thread.. left hand taps are less common and more$$$

IIRC stock scout junk are both RH, one is course and one is fine.

You can also get all the junk for a new one from Spider Trax (http://www.spidertrax.com) for under $75.00

Just cut it in the middle and sleeve it:rolleyes: No threading, no worries;)

How are you going to use stock Scout TREs in Parts Mike arms?

Originally posted by Scouter
How are you going to use stock Scout TREs in Parts Mike arms?

Very good point! I should have thought of that:rolleyes:

Originally posted by Rubicrawler


Very good point! I should have thought of that:rolleyes:

The stock tie rod mount is below the arm!

Originally posted by Old Scout


The stock tie rod mount is below the arm!

Yep! And the taper on a PartsMike arm is larger than stock;)

Originally posted by Rubicrawler


Yep! And the taper on a PartsMike arm is larger than stock;)

Use a stock tie rod in the stock location, use a large taper drag link hooked to the PM arm on the pass side and the cheap scout guy only needs to buy one arm! :rolleyes:

Use a stock tie rod in the stock location, use a large taper drag link hooked to the PM arm on the pass side
Yeah, thats the setup that I am running for now. I don't want to buy tube and make a temp tie rod, only to ditch it in a few weeks when i buy the driver's side arm. Its all a matter of money, i still need $115 for the arm, $80 for TRE's, about $35 or so for tube, and i still need to have $140 for the set of 5012's that i need to get it wheelable for this weekend. That basically means no final steering 'till at least next month. :( Isn't being a broke ass great?

Yea, that is the setup (stock location tie rod) that FC (my brother in NH) is talkin about. I think he is jus lookin to use the shitty tierod setup Till he gets $$$ for taps and Tube, I personally would cut/sleve it.

Originally posted by FCwheeler

Yeah, thats the setup that I am running for now. I don't want to buy tube and make a temp tie rod, only to ditch it in a few weeks when i buy the driver's side arm. Its all a matter of money, i still need $115 for the arm, $80 for TRE's, about $35 or so for tube, and i still need to have $140 for the set of 5012's that i need to get it wheelable for this weekend. That basically means no final steering 'till at least next month. :( Isn't being a broke ass great?

But the draglink your making will be too long when you go to move the tie rod up. The Drag link attachs to the tie rod and yours will be long enough to reach the arm.

I laready have a temp. drag link. Its booty fabbed pretty bad. I just welded the end of a chev tie rod to a piece of the stock drag link, and braced it with some .250x1.25 angle stock. :eek: ghetto shit, for sure, but works for now, and cost me nothing. It the length is right for now, though, and it is stronger than the :rainbow: stock unit.

Originally posted by FCwheeler

i still need $115 for the arm, $80 for TRE's, about $35 or so for tube, and i still need to have $140 for the set of 5012's

im cheep to.. and if its only temp i would:
cheep heims from a tractor store baout 10-12 ea
tube stillabout 35
posably go cheep and get pro comp shocks for 25 ea
id also use 36" shocks rather than the 33's since they are the same price and i use all 16" of stroke on them.

so there you just saved 100 bucks..

Originally posted by FCwheeler
I laready have a temp. drag link. Its booty fabbed pretty bad. I just welded the end of a chev tie rod to a piece of the stock drag link, and braced it with some .250x1.25 angle stock. :eek: ghetto shit, for sure, but works for now, and cost me nothing. It the length is right for now, though, and it is stronger than the :rainbow: stock unit.

No wonder scout guys get a bad rap for being cheap!:flipoff2: :shaking: :shaking:

Originally posted by Old Scout


No wonder scout guys get a bad rap for being cheap!:flipoff2: :shaking: :shaking:

not cheap... thrifty.



my current high-steer set up is all molested stock stuff... the tie-rod is stock with 3/4" cut off each end and the ends threaded in farther, and the draglink is a stocker, cut in the middle and shortend and sleaved...

It *was* all temporary... couldn't justify building a "proper" set-up when I'm building a new (wider) front axle... been holding up WAY better than I though, I have no fears of it, even been in mini-competition and I have beet the crap out of it... For "now" it will e just fine...

scab it togther (just do it smart and decent) just remeber to do it "right" later.....

Hey mister Cheap, You got a lathe to make that Tierod???

I mean i guess one could hand drill out the tube and hand tap it but the quality will suck ass. If ya dont figure on at least $50 for drilling and tapping. The taps are more like $25 and $30 for the two if they are quality ones. So better up your figures just a bit

>so there you just saved 100 bucks..

How when you didn't add the cost of taps and drills, and or machining???


Mark and you getto fabbers,

I will come with a nice poem at the funeral, ....

He was a nice cheap guy
who didn't want to buy
so he got by
and then he died.

Hope to god you guys dont road drive these getto fabed creations. I have seen all to well more than a pile of busted getto fabed stuff, and some crazy stories to boot

Originally posted by The Fleckster


Mark and you getto fabbers,



He wanted cheap so we gave him cheap :flipoff2:

On our fullwidth SII project I used a complete hy-steer set-up from PartsMike.com! No getto fab there!

All that being said, the Fleckster's right, you should never scrimp on safety/quality when dealing with steering or braking components;) Pay your $$ and do it right the first time!

From the beginning, I said:
NOTE: this is NOT for street use, jus trail, and TEMPORARY at that.
I totally agree that ghetto fab has no place on the road, as you can hurt people other than yourself. There are, however setups that would be called ghetto here that are completely safe, and "professional" setups (such as the 4" hi-steer arm spacers with 9/16-20 studs) that are scary as fuck. Just cause you make it doesn't make it sketchy, and JUST 'CAUSE YOU BUY IT DOESN"T MAKE IT SAFE. Thanks for all the ideas, i'll let you know what i end up doing, and how it turns out.

Originally posted by The Fleckster
Hey mister Cheap, You got a lathe to make that Tierod???

I mean i guess one could hand drill out the tube and hand tap it but the quality will suck ass. If ya dont figure on at least $50 for drilling and tapping. The taps are more like $25 and $30 for the two if they are quality ones. So better up your figures just a bit

>so there you just saved 100 bucks..

How when you didn't add the cost of taps and drills, and or machining???


Mark and you getto fabbers,

I will come with a nice poem at the funeral, ....

He was a nice cheap guy
who didn't want to buy
so he got by
and then he died.

Hope to god you guys dont road drive these getto fabed creations. I have seen all to well more than a pile of busted getto fabed stuff, and some crazy stories to boot

You know rusty is a trailer queen Fleck, so you can save your cute little poem. I think it is pretty unlikely he is going to kill himself if his stuff dies on the trail... Only really likely occurence is a bent/broken steering system that hinders him getting his rig out of a trail and back onto his trailer. I would rather have his *ghetto fab* setup and trailer than my expensive bought parts and no trailer...

You are more likely to get killed when a factory/bought part lets go then when a *ghetto* fab by a skilled welder lets go.

so i need to acount for all the tools i have/ use/ borrow? dam the value of my scout just sky rocketed!:flipoff2: shuld i also include cost related to me going to tech school?

From the beginning, I said:
NOTE: this is NOT for street use, jus trail, and TEMPORARY at that.
I totally agree that ghetto fab has no place on the road, as you can hurt people other than yourself. There are, however setups that would be called ghetto here that are completely safe, and "professional" setups (such as the 4" hi-steer arm spacers with 9/16-20 studs) that are scary as fuck. Just cause you make it doesn't make it sketchy, and JUST 'CAUSE YOU BUY IT DOESN"T MAKE IT SAFE. Thanks for all the ideas, i'll let you know what i end up doing, and how it turns out.

Originally posted by The Fleckster
Mark and you getto fabbers,

I will come with a nice poem at the funeral, ....

He was a nice cheap guy
who didn't want to buy
so he got by
and then he died.

Hope to god you guys dont road drive these getto fabed creations. I have seen all to well more than a pile of busted getto fabed stuff, and some crazy stories to boot


John, come on over and tell me where there is anything WRONG with my set-up.... Its actully very simular to typical set-up, just made with stuff I had on hand. Its probably stronger than any of the strock junk it was made from.


Think about it, it sees TONS more stress and force off-road (and I ain't talking logging roads here) than it would on the street, and it has showed no sign of failure, and I don't see how it could fail on the street, with out a ton of warning first.

Some day it might bend off road, but on the street... only time I could see it "failing" in in an accident... and even then a "proper" set up would doubtfully survive.


So you come over here and tell me whats wrong with my steering, and while your at it bring me the D60-2 you owe me. :D







and this from the guy that told me to strip apart a Traveler top for the roll-hoop that have built in... "they make great cheap roll-bars" granted yes, that was many years ago


:rolleyes:........

Mark,

"John, come on over and tell me where there is anything WRONG with my set-up.... Its actully very simular to typical set-up, just made with stuff I had on hand. Its probably stronger than any of the strock junk it was made from."

Mark never said it was wrong, just voicing my opinions on getto fabbing.


"Think about it, it sees TONS more stress and force off-road (and I ain't talking logging roads here) than it would on the street, and it has showed no sign of failure, and I don't see how it could fail on the street, with out a ton of warning first."

Most people dont see how things can fail, then they are like son of a bitch how in the fawk did that break with amazment.:eek: :eek:


and this from the guy that told me to strip apart a Traveler top for the roll-hoop that have built in... "they make great cheap roll-bars" granted yes, that was many years ago

I was asked where i got the one on mine, and i told ya. It was a factory thing inside the traveler top, and yes it is better than nothing at all. Not great buy it will help better than air in a roll.

Pat,

Didnt know Mark was trailer queen only now.
But as for this "I would rather have his *ghetto fab* setup and trailer than my expensive bought parts and no trailer..."

I would rather have quality components and a trailer, makes no difference if its expensive or cheap, as long as its good components done "right" Just my opinion. Ya dont have to listen to it, but i will preach quality components and no getto fabbin(unless its trail fix to get to the road) till I die.
Later i have more work to do on the new shop.