As anyone done this to thier RIG yet and was it worth it?

http://www.dynatrac.com/assets/images/image004.jpg

http://www.dynatrac.com/assets/images/image008.gif

http://www.dynatrac.com/assets/images/image012.jpg

NO, why you ask? because i think thats the ford one, and its not real cheap last time i check, 2500 or so, not including the pro-rock(lil<$1000) housing that they used on the ultimate adventure super duty thing

Yeah that is the ford one but it is the same pics that I saw for the DODGE set-up. I just want manual front locking hubs.

IMO, not worth it, even if you do ALL the dyna trac options, you still have ball joints.

Why do you want manual hubs (what for)? If you just want manual control of the front end (ie for 2low), you can get a kit for ~$85 to do it, or scrounge a couple junkyard solenoids to do it for much less.

Pete

I want locking hubs so that I can run hub fuses. And replace the expensive hub units that are on the DANA 60. Also I want to replace the 31 spline axles for 35 spline axles.

35 spline is a good upgrade, especially for a fullsize truck. the cheaper but harder way is to find a ford rev. cut 60 and fab brackets for the links. that's what were doin for my brother's '98.:D

IMO hub fuses are retarded, particularly on a D60.

Also, not that I like the design, but have you had (repetitive) problems with the unit bearings?

I have seen many people go threw axle after axle without hub fuses and then after adding them only having to replace the fuze. They to me make great sence.

I also want locking hubs front and rear for towing and for the added theft protection. Can't steal it if they can't move it.

Hubs out back? Ghetto - esp in heavy rig. You're just gonna spend all your time replacing them. Drive flanges are the way to go.

AND judging by the fact that you've got 5 lugs, no one (that I know of) makes a FF kit for the 9.25.

Warn used to advertise that they made custom FF kits. When I was looking about 3 years ago they told me they stopped.. So I just put a FF 60 out back.

Originally posted by Bad Azz DODGE
...and for the added theft protection. Can't steal it if they can't move it.

Let me know where you park. If you've disconnected the drivetrain (unlocked hubs) so I can't drive it away... I'll ROLL it away... :rolleyes: :flipoff2:

I have either a DANA 60/70/80 that I am planning to put in the rear. I am just deciding which one to go with.

I am leaning towards the DANA 70 with the 1.5 inch axle shafts and 35 spline. Plus the much larger range of gear ratios and locker over the 9.25.

The 9.25 is a piece of crap....and I have no intention of keeping it.

I have seen many Jeeps running rear locking hubs and I do wheel hard. I am planning on running 40's in the next year or so..... Just planning things threw before I spend any $...

The other reason I want the DANA 70 or 80 is I am planning to make my truck into a recovery unit.

THE MAIN REASON I WANT REAR HUBS IS FOR TOWING.... With my ROAD ARMOR bumper and a tow bar It will make for easy towing.


Getting it all set up for a wrecker...
http://www.bogginfreaks.com/phpreaders/albums/pornstar/aad.sized.jpg

http://www.bogginfreaks.com/phpreaders/albums/pornstar/abe.sized.jpg

http://www.bogginfreaks.com/phpreaders/albums/pornstar/ace.sized.jpg

http://www.bogginfreaks.com/photopost/data/504/61keith_5_trucks_smaller.jpg

Originally posted by Bad Azz DODGE
I have seen many people go threw axle after axle without hub fuses and then after adding them only having to replace the fuze. They to me make great sence.

I also want locking hubs front and rear for towing and for the added theft protection. Can't steal it if they can't move it.

And I have seen many people blocking the trail changing out hub fuses at every obstacle. Plus, they don't always break first.

If you're going "threw axle after axle", then you need stronger axles, not an even chinzier piece of shit that breaks sooner.

If you're gonna run rear locking hubs, you might as well keep your 1/2 ton axle, too. And how the hell do you figure it'll be harder to steal if I can just unlock your hubs and roll it wherever I want?

Have you ever tried flat towing a full size truck? It sucks. You need a trailer if you're gonna tow that pig.

Pete

Originally posted by pcorssmit


And I have seen many people blocking the trail changing out hub fuses at every obstacle. Plus, they don't always break first.

If you're going "threw axle after axle", then you need stronger axles, not an even chinzier piece of shit that breaks sooner.

If you're gonna run rear locking hubs, you might as well keep your 1/2 ton axle, too. And how the hell do you figure it'll be harder to steal if I can just unlock your hubs and roll it wherever I want?

Have you ever tried flat towing a full size truck? It sucks. You need a trailer if you're gonna tow that pig.

Pete

Ditto what he said...

It's good that you're going to upgrade to 60-70-80 or the like... But I'd still stay away from the hubs on the rear. Do drive flanges - they'll be much stronger. You say you've seen 'em work on Jeeps....But I've seen 'em go through hubs (rear) on V8 CJs. And they're a ton lighter than you and me both.

You gonna change out the front as well? I assume so, since Dynatrac doesn't make (unless something's changed recently) that kit for the D44.

Originally posted by SolidAxleDurango

Do drive flanges - they'll be much stronger.

Why not just run the stock shafts FF like everyone else?

Pete

Originally posted by pcorssmit


Why not just run the stock shafts FF like everyone else?

Pete

Ah.. Ok. He's mentioned custom stuff so, I'm lumping them (standard shafts/drive flange) together and not telling anyone... :flipoff2: You don't have your decoder ring?

Basically, don't do the manual hubs out back.

Originally posted by SolidAxleDurango


Basically, don't do the manual hubs out back.

So now you're suggesting he use automatic hubs in the rear? Even better. :rolleyes:
















j/k, couldn't help myself. :flipoff2:

Pete

Originally posted by SolidAxleDurango


You gonna change out the front as well? I assume so, since Dynatrac doesn't make (unless something's changed recently) that kit for the D44.

I already have a Dana 60 out of a 97 3/4 ton. I will be putting it in soon getting ready for 38's.

http://www.bogginfreaks.com/phpreaders/albums/pornstar/aid.sized.jpg

When you put that 60 under the truck, I suggest you shit can the stock steering linkage, and either build your own, or buy aftermarket. This is assuming yours is setup like the pic you posted. The only truck I've see where they got the steering linkage more or less right is a '99 2500 that my buddy had as a work truck.

Pete

I intend on keeping the stock steering linkage off the Dana 60 it is much larger than the D44 and much easier to work with. But I do plan on going to a better HI-STEER setup shortly after putting it all in.

http://www.bogginfreaks.com/phpreaders/albums/pornstar/aif.sized.jpg

Something more like this

http://www.allprooffroad.com/pics/5919.jpg

Or something like this BUT A BIT LESS GHETTO...NO WELDS....

http://www.rightcoastcrawler.com/billaVista/Frontsuspension/Dcp_5037.jpg

The second setup is what I was refering too, although the first may be better. However, its a lot more difficult to do high steer with a bj 60 (vs a king pin). You also need to remember to keep it parallel with the trac bar.

Pete

I heard that the d60 steering linkage and the d44 linkage was the same size? I know my d44 linkage is beefy, but I have already busted alignment linkages, and bent it with 33" bfg muds. I sugguest replacing it. I plan on gettimg mine from mike ladd at bent and twisted in chico as soon as i sell some more parts. Also, Ford f-350 BALL JOINT knuckles bolt right up to your dodge housing. Then If you want to get rid of the CAD in the axle, then you can either get a long side shaft from dynatrac that is raised in the CAD section, or put some sort of a bushing in there to to support the axle, and not let the fluid get out. Also, from what i know, the dodge d60 front is something like 33 spline, and if you want any kind of locker, you will need to upgrade to 35 spline. Also, from what i read on pavement sucks, you broke your d44 (bent housing) so i woudl highly recommend bracing the dana 60. As for the rear, i woudl run a dana 70. Strongest for your money, and also, the dana 80 I believe hangs too low. I personally woudl run a 14 bolt, and have it shaved at a machine shop, but that is just me.

Garrett

BTW, unless you weld on your knuckles, you cant have hi-steer with your axle from what i know. Here is the steering setup i am going ot go with:

http://www.pavementsucks.com/miscimages/tierod_driver.jpg
http://www.pavementsucks.com/miscimages/tieroddraglink_pass.jpg
http://www.pavementsucks.com/miscimages/draglink_pitman.jpg

here is another setup with rod ends, but the track bar is not at the same angle as the drag link. Something that shoudl really be done with a coil sprung suspension.

http://www.pavementsucks.com/miscimages/bulletproof1.jpg
http://www.pavementsucks.com/miscimages/bulletproof2.jpg
http://www.pavementsucks.com/miscimages/bulletproof3.jpg
http://www.pavementsucks.com/miscimages/bulletproof4.jpg
http://www.pavementsucks.com/miscimages/bulletproof5.jpg

Here's some pics of mine.... on steering linkage I'm using TRE (1 ton) and track bar has rod ends. Some of them are large.. sorry dial up users...

You can see that the drag link and track bar are ultra close in angle AND although it's not high steer, the steering arm has been drilled to allow the TRE to go on the upper side.

http://www.solidaxle.net/durango_conversion/images/steering_from_pass_side_close_focus_lg.jpg

http://www.solidaxle.net/durango_conversion/images/steering_from_pass_side_lg.jpg

http://www.solidaxle.net/durango_conversion/images/steering_from_driv_side_lg.jpg

Shows decent clearance:

http://www.solidaxle.net/durango_conversion/images/front_post_from_front_lg.jpg

wow, this thread got way off subject :flipoff2:

but while were here, dynatrac does make high steer ball joint 60 knuckles, you just have to get the rest of the conversion, another reason i recomend a hp ford rev. cut 60. ;)